Internal combustion engine breather systems are one of the most misunderstood systems there is. So simple yet so damn mysterious to some. There is absolutely no harm done to any engine that simply vents to atmosphere.
A road draft tube works on a semi truck because the gases are being released at the crank case. A 7.3 has to have its crank case gases go out the valve cover that’s why vacume is needed from the turbo
@@alshegarfi7338 Again, this doesn't make any sense, if the the crankcase is pressurized and there is an indirect line to the ccv system through the valve cover the pressure will be the same in both locations. This is pretty basic, pressures in 2 vessels that have an open connection will passively equalize. It's the same reason the high pressure oil system has an equalizer line in the middle of the valley on a 7.3.
My truck has been perfectly fine with the ccv. It’s been on for years and my truck has never ran better. No leaks or anything. So thank god i am not taking your advice on this one.
Your a smart man so i dont want to argue with you so lets talk about crankcase vantalation going into the vains or fins of the turbo. The turbo is a finly machined instrument now your going to gum it all up with engine goo sticking to it. Then your going to mix contaminants with your perfictly clean fuel air mixture causing poor combustion and poor emisions to repiet its cicle of poor fuel mixture
I did the this to my 99.5 PSD 7.3 10 years ago, With no problems! Ran the Hose all the way to the rear of the truck. My Intercooler is clean with no oil any were!! I now have 215 K on the truck with NO PROBLEMS!!
Big facts the stock system will work fine on a stock truck but put custom cut pistons and set the rings for high boost and let me know how much oil runs through the turbo or intake this isn’t just for Diesel engines either
Usually this guy gives good advice but this time is no bueno...He even states "9 times out of 10 the leaky turbo stops after we re-route the PCV back to stock, I don't know why that is..." - then you shouldn't be commenting on it Bill. The only reason FoMoCo routes the PCV this way from the factory is for emissions. The small amount of vacuum is negligible at best in evacuation the crankcase and that 5/8" ID hose vented to atmosphere does a fine job. Not happy with that? Weld a bung in the exhaust and have it sucked out that way. Vented externally, you clean up the intercooler (increasing it's efficiency) and don't have oil seeping out all your charge pipe couplings, as well you're not caking up the backside of the intake valves (assuming you have an EGR delete done) and pistons by burning this condensate.
Not sure about a 6.0 but on a 7.3 the ccv mod causes no problems. In fact the International T444E (same engine as a 7.3 Powerstroke) used in commercial trucks has the crank case vented into the air.
Yeah but there's more benefits to having vacuum on the crank case vs no vaccum..vacuum... in race engines they make vacuum pumps specifically for sucking out crank case pressure and some claim it seals the rings better and creates better compression. Will you get that with manifold vacuum? Probabably not but there's no harm in running vacuum. Having pressure is more harmful so why risk it? A little oil consumption adds mpg anyways so why not?
@@kyleranderson1948 Your logic makes no sense man, if a system is pressurized and has access to a lower-pressure system it will equalize the pressures passively.
I would love to know how you could explain how all the turbo chargers since the beginning of time on diesels with crank case vent venting to the outside survived if this is what’s causing your turbo problems.
I have always been impressed with your mechanic skills and your knowledge and I have enjoyed your videos, most of them are full of great information, until this one. my last truck was a fully deleted 6.0 and my family's company has 6 of them. I've done this mod on all of them, and I think it's an excellent mod. It keeps all the intake tubing dry and clean of oily and dirty debri. We I have always had a problem with oil seeping out around the tubing in various places and as soon as we did this delete we quit having an oily mess both inside the tubing and outside the tubing, how can that be bad? As as far as vacuum needed to suck that stuff out of the crankcase, that's BS there is plenty of pressure built inside the crankcase to relieve itself there's no need for vacuum or sucking of any kind to get the pressure and oil out of the crankcase. And if this is such a bad thing to do on diesels then explain to me, while right up until emission started to be a big deal to SOME, diesels all over the place vented out of a vent tube that dumped right out below the motor, they were all set up that way. The Cummins in the Dodge pickups dumped right out blow the motor up until mid 2007, all your tractors farm equipment big trucks forklifts and such all dumped out right below the motor straight out from the crankcase similar to the vent setup you have in your video and if it wasn't for the EPA and their bull crap and all the emission talk about the planet burning up, the crank vent tubes would still be dumped right out underneath the motor instead of recycled through the air intake.
i've heard that the ccv system on the 6.0 helps the rings to seal. I don't know if this is true or not but it has been said, that would explain the oil burn he is having in the video as well.
+Bobby Dob The piston rings? I doubt that, I guess anything is possible. But I don't see why the CCV system would be needed to help seal piston rings, most motors don't have this system and seal just fine. And like mentioned many times here, there are lots of diesels built NOT using this environmental crap ccv system. Belive me, it's not needed and having it is not going to save our planet.
CCV mod is very good. Just be sure to use at least a 1" diameter hose at a constant slope. This reminds me of the snake oil comment persons that railed against additive such as Arch oil and Revx. Come to find out those mechanics and followers of those mechanics comments, or as I like call them peanut gallery followers, couldn't have missed the boat more. Yes it cuts into profits of unneeded repairs and perfectly good solutions to not spend thousands of dollars plus extra down time towing etc. If doing any mod or using any additive, take the up front time to investigate why it works and how. We know using snake oils can work if the problem is fixable by that science. By using the thought of suction removes more blow by, then one would have to worry about to much suction. That could suck more fuel into the oil pan diluting our oil with fuel much quicker. I am not saying the EPA system to scrub the emissions does that. Of course we all know the EPA doesn't care if their approved systems ruin our engines faster or not. So if you do the CCV mod and it causes your engine to not vent properly, Then you have not done it correctly. Check hose size. 1" diameter works real well with my SCT tune on heavy tow and make sure it runs out at a constant slope with no kinks so it doesn't create a pool of build up oil clogging it. I also added Ia notched on the dump end in a forwards facing V. This does create suction with forwards movement. I learned that years ago while having some work done buy a shop working on my 379 Peterbilt by simply asking why the hose was that way from the factory and noticed other trucks not. If you still have problems after that you have another issue. Do it right or don't do it at all.
My 2002 was stock with 175k miles, oil coming from all the pipes etc...I had no idea what was leaking and what wasn’t lol .. did CCV mod cleaned up the engine and fixed the found Leaks and seals and gaskets and hoses etc...
You said increasing this crankcase ventilation puts stress on the turbo seals. I assume you mean the increased crankcase pressure? Which by the way I don't believe would be an increase or a problem at all. But my question is, how in the world would that pressure affect turbo seals? The turbo return oil drain? No way air pressure is traveling against returning oil. And no way there is such an increase in crankcase pressure just from leaving the ccv hose open to atmosphere. Unless it's plugged up or kinked, there will be no problem.
I have my plumbed to my exhaust. Still creates a vacuum but no oil in the intake. Watch Anthony Youngblood from super duty service, he does it on all his builds.
im haveing no problem I did my own bulletproof just sent my heads to my machine shop to do O rings and bronze valve guides I'm putting out 650 horsepower towing a bobcat everyday for three years now still no problem Bill did help me with alot of his knowledge thanks
I understand what you're saying, but I have seen diesels that vent the crankcase right to the atmosphere, (i.e.: Cat C7's and DT466's), so how do they get away with it?
Got a little black smoke on a mild take off. Go to tuner roll back low presure fuel by 1. They are pre set to 3. So a setting of 2 should keep the black down just enough.
I had an 05 6.0 hat I vented to atmosphere and the hose got kinked making it white smoke profusely. I believe people restrict them too much sometimes when they vent them thus creating pressure inside the crankcase and thats why they smoke. Restricting a ccv will make them blow seals. Just got my second 6.0, a 2006, routed it to atmosphere using the stock fittings and a length of 1'' heater hose. No problems so far. Just don't choke it down and you'll be fine.
Thank you,i see now. I didn't think about the return line on the turbo.... Yes,the mod must be really restricitve,otherwise it would not leak. Mods on the pcv are a good thing,you can loose quite some heat exchange with a dirty oil coated intercooler....
Wow - get a shovel cause this is getting deep. All venting the ccv to atmosphere does is keep your truck out of this guys shop. I think that is a fine idea.
Respectfully, I have to disagree with you. Sure,venting into the atmosphere is bad, but if you live in warmer/hotter, drier climates, the hotter air cannot pressurize as much, so the engine runs hotter. This increased heat and pressure results in excessive oil condensation. So, why is that bad? That means that, instead of your turbo reusing burped condensation to increase pressure, and properly vent separation gases via the exhaust, the crankcase is creating a negative vacuum situation. This will result in the case burping hot gases into the custom tube. Now, since we take the pressurization of the crankcase away, the pressurization reaches a stop, and so instead of feeding all of that hot air down a non-pressurized exhaust tube, the pressure comes to its exhaust point via the exhaust manifolds. This will result in bellowing white, burnt-oil-smelling exhaust from your tailpipe. These plumes of white smoke from the tailpipe will get thick, and allow you to breathe in the NOx; they will also dust all cars behind you as well. TL;DR: Don't reroute the crankcase into a negative pressure situation (to open air) on the 6.0 Powerstroke. It will completely obstruct power output, which will result in overheating, and much, much, MUCH higher oil condensation gas burping.
The problem I have with the CCV system is that the oil vapor mixes with the recirculated exhaust gases from the EGR and coats your intake. Makes for a gummy mess.
Yup and these new direct injection gas engines are known for clogged up intakes on the cylinder heads I hate EGR on Diesel engines it’s like running fine sand through it
My 6.4 started blowing heavy white smoke as soon as I added the catch can to it. I checked everything under the hood out and it all led back to the ccv delete. I put it back to stock and took it for a test drive. All the white smoke stopped and the excessive blow by is now gone
this guy don't know what's he's talking about 🤣 like venting ccv to atmosphere would ruin the turbo?!! like who would have thought 😂😂😂😂😂😂 I've been venting the ccv to atmosphere for over a year now without any problems lol
pulling a vacuum on the crankcase will increase ring seal and free up HP... the ticket is (especially gas vehicles) is to evacuate to an free flowing exhaust... not as good as pulling a vacuum with a pump, but better than the octane lowering oil entering the intake.
I had a 7.3 I bought with a (massive blow by issue) when I looked at it got 3000 bucks off just to see The vent at the end of the hose under the frame was blocked with A OIL BREATHER FILTER CAKED AND CLOGGED WITH TRASH. Routed it back to the proper spot and wasn’t a problem I even noticed on intakes that most oil leaks start after cold air intakes are installed so when I bought my 7.3 excursion last week all I did was put a k and n repellent filter in the stock box.
As much as I love PSH videos, it's worth noting that the 7.3 was not a "Ford" motor. But you know that. If you haven't taken the time to look, look at some of the REAL 444E applications. DT444E from Australia, maybe in a BUS.. Real heavy GVW rigs.... Many have crank venting through a separator can & out behind the engine, or straight our down the bell housing... Any that DO vent into the intake are FIRST run through a air/oil separator can so IT DOESN'T FILL YOUR INTER COOLER WITH OIL ! A leaking turbo seal is just that, LEAKING! Just because applying vacuum stops the leak doesn't determine it was the CAUSE of the leak. Hell, maybe your blow bye is shooting your dip stick out, but when you hook up the CCV vacuum up, you just FIXED the blow bye ? Light neg vacuum can keep a slight leaking gasket from dripping, but there not related as cause & effect You will NOT build pressure in a crank case by venting wide open .. BTW, Aviation engines NEVER gulp filthy crank case gasses, they always vent to "atmosphere"
Statements, and a Question! Statements: My coffee cup doesn't get sticky or weird, until sometime after I stop adding fresh coffee. If it were day one, I would vent my 7.3 to the atmosphere! However, right now (per my inspection of an intercooler pipe) what I have is Clean, Wet, Fresh oil... presumably throughout, the affected components, but at the very least, downstream of the turbo--which I'm okay with! If I stop refreshing it then, it will be moving toward Old, Dry, Dirty junk. Question: Am I crazy?
You are right I would leave it stock in a diesel. The gassers with direct injection have issues. My buddy has a Mini which oil from his intercooler slosh into the combustion process, create unexpected combustion, and the sensors would detect irregularities and throw him into limp mode. He added a ccv oil catch can to catch the oil, but the gasses still fed into the turbo. He empties the can about every 10k, so far with 30k on the mod, hes been problem free. My guess, is this is crossing over to the diesel side where it isn't as necessary.
What about putting in an line catch can to collect some of the oil? That way you retain the vacuum from the turbo but maybe filter out some of the oil?
Guys- he cant and won't tell you to void the warranty or bypass the emissions on your Powerstroke. His job is getting your Powerstroke back on the road. Notice that I didn't say "fixing" your Powerstroke. If every Powerstroke Diesel was fixed and modified to run the best it can with all of the best mods then he would be out of a job. This video is laughable. You can almost hear him snickering that the CCV delete is a bad idea.
Incorrect. A rod draft tube works on a semi because crank case gases are vents at the crank case. A 7.3 had to vent at the valve cover. That is why a vacume, not engine vacume, from the turbo is needed. If u pay attention to the tubing for the turbo, the orface for the turbo is smaller and the orface towards the the filter is bigger. This is on purpose to create a Venturi affect.
does the turbo require smoky blow by oil to stay alive. or the seals just give out cuz of the tad bit extra crankcase pressure that occurs when vented to catch can
i loved this video. you should do another one entitled, "dumb shit customers do to their trucks." Or start another channel of daily rants, you can record them when you're test driving trucks!
I did the ccv reroute on my 97 7.3 and it immediately went to smoking. It started to drip oil out the tale pipe. Put it back stock and stop smoking so in my case he's right.
Bill, I love your videos! I'm going to diesel tech school right now, and every video I watch, I learn something new. I've been watching your channel since 2012 and I've learned a lot in that time. thank you so much and I look forward to watching them in the future. Hopefully I can get a 7.3 or 6.0 within the next year.
Plus in the great salt belt when winter comes around the moisture in the CCV will freeze and can block the line up. That'll blow out all the seals in the motor in a hurry.
All I know is I did this mod along with adding a bypass oil filter and changing out all of my fluids. Within 2 hours of running, I was leaving a cloud of white smoke behind me everywhere. I was freaking out, thinking that I had a bad injector. Then I watched this video and returned my CCV to stock and it is smoke free and running like a champ! Thanks Bill!
i have to say i did ccv delete on 6.7 cummins. it runs awsome just straight draft tube. i do think the delete kits with small 2 inch filter on end are bad idea because if they get plugged then pressure will build in crankcrase. but my truck has been running great with just a hose to atmosphere
Lets find a way to keep the turbo boots from blowing off then. Most people do the ccv mod because they are tired of the oil that soaks the boot.. so once someone invents a bullet proof boot upgrade we all would be very happy
What about the 6.7 Powerstroke? I think the CCV is a major culprit in pushing out the upper oil pan seal. Causes to much pressure in the crankcase, and boom, you’re blowing out seals.
the difference with mine is I have a catch can which catches the oil and I have no problem with the truck before I did this it was so much oil going through the pipes they used to slip or even changing new ones and new clamps with the proper torque
So with the mod you had about 653k? Sounds like something was working right. The mod has to be done right. If you had 1" hose v notch forwards then not a problem. You must be hauling heavy loads. That will eat turbos as it should be your weakest link before engine melt down. If you wear out seals you will first notice turbo weeping and then oil dieseling that can lead to run away. You should have looked into or you may now have a properly built turbo to get longevity while doing heavy to over demanding loads. Cheap rebuilt turbos abound and commonly fail during normal use. Therefore buying a new quality turbo especially if you make your living with it is best.
bs on it blowing the turbo seals... older heavy duty trucks and off highway engines vent right into the atmosphere... the recirculation is purely for emissions
Oil doesn’t plug it up. The motor burns it. A road draft tube works on a semi because it vents at the crank case. A 7.3 had to vent at the valve cover, which is why the CCV mode doesn’t work on a 7.3. Ethier leave it alone or put a catch can setup that adds to the existing desighn.
a crankcase ventilation is used to prevent pressure build so your orings wont leak cause of pressure build up right? so if you disconnect how is it harming it if its still relieving the pressure air will flow in the path of less resistance right? so how would it have any bad effects to the orings if its still relieving the air by pressure?
If this is true, then why does every VT365 I have worked on vent down by the bellhousing? How can an 06 dodge Cummins 5.9 vent to atmosphere "safely" but a 6.0 can't? every other diesel engine/manufacturer on the planet goes by the rule of , if there is oil in the CAC system, then something is wrong.
Because the crank case is being vented at the crank case. A 7.3 has to vent at the valve cover same without the 6.0. That’s why a vacume from the turbo is needed
I’m here to tell you very little oil is exiting the CCV box. At 219,000m, my 11, 6.7, f250 doesn’t use a drop of oil between changes. I replace the CCV box every 50,000m but unaware if there is a recommended change interval. I think someone once told me that, but not certain? If anyone knows the answer please comment. I don’t see any need to delete the CCV box. What is the gain? It doesn’t fail, you don’t get additional fuel mileage. What is the upside? I’m 70 and for the most part have always erred on the side of original engineering. I’m not qualified to anticipate unintended consequences of alterations, especially the complex diesels today.
Bill, you are partially right here. The crankcase vacuum is important as gasses do get past the rings and into the crankcase. The gasses that get into the crankcase are not good for nearly everything in there. Over time they will react with the various metals and oil, as well as dilute the oil itself. The CCV is a simple way to ensure a moderate amount of vacuum sucks out the denser gasses which could otherwise settle and not be able to escape. Ford should have put an air oil separator on these trucks. Anybody who has a high horsepower Subaru knows this as well: up to 600hp or so, most air oil separators will route the vented gasses back into the intake. IAG's competition series AOS does not, but the disclaimer specifically states that oil change intervals must be dropped to around 1,200mi or after every race, because of oil dilution.
@@RoadKing05FLHR there is no separation on powerstrokes. Simply crank case vent. Lots of people including me put catch cans. This allows crank case pressure to recirculate through the turbo without the oily mess that over time caused other problems
@powerstrokehelp Bill, you mentioned you weren't sure why hooking up the Crank Case Ventilation system to the turbo intake fixes the oil leak. The answer is physics! By creating a slight vacuum on the crank side of an engine, air is drawn into any small crevices to equalize the vacuum. With the air being drawn in, the oil isn't allowed to leak out. Without a vacuum, the oil is free to leak out of any seal that cannot hold back the pressure Fun fact for ya
I believe that the international VT365 engine is vented to the atmosphere not the intake. Only thing different is emissions on different truck classes.
Bill, I have watched alot of you video and most I tend to agree with you and think you have some good ideas. in this case I tend to disagree and this is why. if ccv is so good then way do 99% of big rigs and military vehicle run it? also a ccv mod can be totally harmless and not create any leaks. what people tent to mess up is they run fitting or elbows or even hoses that are too constricted thus cuasing too much pressure and the oil leaks out of the path of leas restriction I.e. the turbo. or when people use catch can same principle too much restriction. if you do ccv mod on any diesel the hose and fittings need to be at least 1 inch inside diameter.
Why do it it the first place? As he said they are made to burn this small bit of oil. There is NO add in power OR longevity to the engine. Its a needless mod.
thenomadrhodes It's not a needless mod. If you had any experience you would understand. I I have done this mod to several of our personal trucks and seen the results without the mod and after the mod with trucks that are new and truck that have 300,000 miles this is a great mod it's only due to the emission bull crap thst diesel motors even do this.
I'm so tired of all these idiots coming up on here and posting things they don't know anything about and since his guy has a mechanic shop that doesn't mean he knows everything and he is right on every scenario. I have done this mod to multiple vehicles and I have driven some of these trucks thousands of miles with this mod I'm very experienced with this mod, and I've only benefited from it and I'm not some youngster! I'm 35 years old I've seen several old guys do this and I learned this mod from guy in is 60's.
Incorrect ! I had the turbo pedestal leak after doing the CCV mod.....the catch can was blocked.... removed the block and let it breath and I've had no further issues. I hope you don't soak the customer in the video to bad. Still like your other videos, but will watch with caution from now on.
Let me try to get you to answer me one question because you never return my comments, do we have to clean the factory ccv system and how? Thank you sir. Great video like always.
Mike S Inspect the boots and replace if they are stretched or limber. Also be sure to completely remove all trace of oils from inside the boots and the mating surfaces on the tubes. Do this and you will not have a problem.
I guess the vacuum in the crankcase does a pretty good job at the turbo. It sucks at the chargers drain line and reduces effective oil pressure at the turbocharger bearings. Positive pressure in case of bad ventilation would be really bad and even increase the pressure there.
I saw a test on an engine where they tried several variations of a ccv system and the engine made the last power with no ccv system. Better with a vacuum system and made the most power with a belt driven vacuum pump. Even with the load of the pump, the horsepower was still higher. Keep giving the good advice.
I hate to tell all you guys but I did the CCV mod on a 7.3 with a brand new turbo. Any restriction in that CCV mod will make Oil come out of the exhaust housing of the turbo. ( happened to me. Had an oil catch can on there. ) There isn't a so call rubber Oring but its called " turbo piston ring" its the metal ring on the shaft you replace when you rebuild them. Now having said all that I have vented the ccv straight to atmosphere and not had the same issue.
Bill great video love everything you do. I would like to add to your video in this post so I hope you read this. I have seen people commenting in Video's on RU-vid about blow by through the oil fill and how you need to install the CCV to prevent Turbo and intercooler failures which is somewhat accurate. However the modifications being sold online and in the market place is going to cause more problems than it prevents just as you have stated. I have been working in the heavy equipment industry for over 20 years all off highway equipment. Very Large diesel engines. I would consider myself an expert in regards to diesel engines and crankcase pressure so I know what I am talking about. Proper crankcase vacuum is critical with regards to diesel engine performance. This serves two functions: 1) To prevent exhaust gasses from building up in the crankcase. The reason this is critical is for the health of all of the gaskets and oil seals in the engine preventing leaks as you have stated. By having a slight vacuum applied to the crankcase you prevent crankcase pressure from building up and pushing the seals out. Some might argue and say well that the CCV mod vents it… so how can it be building pressure? Well if you look at where the vent is with the CCV Mod, you are only venting one side of the engine, and that is the right valve cover. Lower crankcase pressure and Left valve cover pressure will build in the system and eventually cause leaks. Also if your crankcase pressure builds enough you could force crankcase pressure toward the return line of the turbo oil drain causing a restriction forcing oil pressure to become greater than exhaust pressure around the turbine shaft seal causing an oil leak, just as you have stated in your video. You will also start to see oil pulled out of the compressor shaft seal and start to be directed into the engine which is really bad. You could have a run away. That is where the turbo compressor seal fails and oil starts to get pumped into the intake side of the engine and the engine no longer runs on fuel but runs on oil. I have seen engines destroyed in this fashion where if you were standing next to or near it, you would be seriously injured if not killed. 2) The second reason you want to maintain vacuum in the crankcase is similar to the first. You don’t want to have exhaust gases build up in the crankcase because in these exhaust gases there could be unburned fuel. Unburned fuel if pressure and temperature build up enough you could have a crankcase explosion. Unburned fuel that is still atomized(made it past the rings) that accumulates in the crankcase in rare exceptions could ignite or burn below the piston or above the valve train. This would result in seal failures. I have only owned a Powerstoke diesel for about 6 weeks, so not sure if the Powerstroke Diesel monitors crankcase pressure and shuts the engine down if pressure exceeds a certain value I have not had time to do that yet. See on large engine applications we monitor crankcase pressure to protect the engine from having a crankcase explosion, but to also understand piston ring health. Vacuum being created by the Intake / Turbo: I don’t agree with how Ford is creating vacuum through the intake and this should be addressed. See 17 years ago the company who I work for(we build diesel engines) was doing this the same way. This lead to some premature turbo failures due to a turbo compressor wheel unbalance condition. We were building oil up on the compressor wheel…. I know Bill says that will get pulled into the combustion chamber and he is right but not all of it will end up in the combustion chamber. See when we are not generating boost pressure oil will accumulate on the compressor wheel and start to build up due to emulsification of the oil. This oil and emulsification will also occur within the intercooler and prevent the intercooler cooling the intake air over time reducing engine efficiency. On our engines I was on a team that developed a system that created a crankcase vacuum without the use of an external vacuum pump. This system also captured any oil that might be pulled by that vacuum with a screen that returned it to the oil pan. Bill…. I know how we can do this but need some help. I consider you an expert on Powerstokes and think you could add this as a tool to increase turbo life of your customers. I don't expect anything in return I would love to extend the life of my Turbo and help others do the same. See engines are designed by engineers, but are built by the guys in the field to run better and last longer. Thank you for everything you do.
Just gonna throw out the fact that big rigs vent crankcase to atmosphere. Look under any big rig, they have a hose that usually hangs under the front axle.
Bill, do you consider it a bad idea to do the CCV reroute on the 6.7 powerstroke engine as well? Just wondering as I'm considering doing it but really don't want to deal with these issues if this is the case on the 6.7.
Cat,Detroit,Cummins are all vented to the ground. I really don't understand why Navstar chose to do this other than emissions laws. Not that I would want all the blow by under my pickup, I see no benefit from rerouting the CVS from how Navstar designed this back in the turbo. It tends to be quite messy under trucks with the crankcase vented to the ground.
Steve, that's just not true. This mod does not make an oily mess under the truck. I've only seen this issue when there is major engine ware and there is excessive amounts of oil going past the piston rings. But on normal engine operation there isn't and should not be enough oil coming out of that vent to cause an oily mess under the truck. Also a lot of folks that do this mod run the hose all the way to the back bumper and down. that will keep everything clean under the truck, which usually isn't an issue. Again most diesels came stock this way (vented right below the motor) until all this BS emission stuff started going around. All this man made global warming stuff is BS.
But navistar fucked up bad on vemting back to the inlet of the turbo. The systems were failing and some trucks had blown head gaskets because of it. Excessive oil in the intake, like fuckin puddles of oil. There fix. Clean the CAC and intake. Change the centrifugal filter and vent it straight to the ground. Just like 7.3 idi, the cdr valve cause most od the head gasket issues. Oil in the intake causes hot spots in the cylinders and obviously blows head gaskets, destroys valves, valve seals, valve guides, ect. I deleted mine after replacing heads and exhaust temps dropped 50 to 100 degrees
Didn't think of that. So, you mean fuel in the crank case would feed back through the CCV, through the turbo, and keep feeding the engine. Interesting.
Please explain the physics behind a blown seal on the turbo shaft being caused by the Crank Case vented to the atmosphere versus a mild suction to the crank case. The pressurized oil system is sealed. The hot air, if you will, is still not pressurized because it vents out. The suction would only affect the gasses that get by the seals of the cylinders. Those gasses will get blown by regardless of a mild suction or venting to the atmosphere. What I will give you is the oil will get soot and other combustion particles contaminating it sooner, but that is negligible. I'm at 7,000+ miles since my last oil change and the oil still looks good and I have YET to add any. And yes, I have blow by. I actually have to replace my CAC boots soon. Oil residue is showing on them between the turbo and the cooler and at the turbo air intake. Stock truck. I've been driving semis since 2009. I've driven new ones with 23 miles on the odometer and ones with a million plus on them. Never had a turbo seal go out on ANY of them because they were venting to the atmosphere. Again. Explain to me the physics behind a sealed oiling system blowing out a seal SOLELY based on a CCV not having mild suction. It can, and WOULD, blow out from a OILING problem. Such as turning off a hit engine and turbo, thus coking the oil in the turbo. Gumming up things like the turbo oil drain tube. Which would cause over pressurized oil to the sesls in the turbo.
Now reinventing the factory is very hard as they have vast institution knowledge base, highly trained and experienced engineers with specialist on each system or component in the engine, massive infrastructure including scores or hundreds of engine development dyno-test cells, and almost unlimited development budgets. A friend who ran Garret AiReseach test section had under him 22 dyno cell devoted to the OM617A engine when they did the turbo system development for Benz, some 35 years ago... its more now. Still problem areas are missed or purposefully avoided. During that engine development the 1000 hr. full power max. rpm qualification tests were impossible to complete due to needed valve adjustments due to valve recession... in the soft iron valve seats. My friend [who had vast experience previously in Chrysler engine labs, directing development projects as chief engineer or in management] fought with the German engineers about adopting hard valve seats... they steadfastly refused... so he had the hard seats installed to pass the 1000 hr. test behind their back... so sometimes things do get through. But don't kid yourself that you can out do the factory... that is damn hard. Most modern diesels have similar systems. In the olden days of my 1981 Benz non-turbo OM616 engine and my 1985 turbo charged OM617a or OM617.951 on engines oil from the crankcase vents was simply dumped in the inlet... causing very few problems. Skip forward a few years and the new ultra low emission engines using Hydrocarbon catalysts combined with DEPF catalysts and ammonia steam injection / SCR or NOx catalysts you got a different story. The modern engines have tail pipes insides that look like new with a never run engine if maintained properly. So you might think of considering the issues these modern Benz diesels have, as a guide. My 2011 Mercedes Benz e350 diesel with the 3.0L OM642 engine vents crankcase via right side hollow camshaft to aft of engine through a centrifugal air-oil separator... then PCV valve... hose to a heater and direct into turbocharger inlet. Works great but... it does pass oil into the intake manifold that deteriorates the silicone rubber seals sealing the intake to the turbo and the PCV inlet. As pcv vent flow is introduced in the inlet plenum after the two hot film MAF sensors, and it causes two problems first is vacuum leaks, and second ruining the MAFs with oil film. You must replace the entire inlet plenum system that includes all seals and the, plenum, both MAFs, and flame arrestors. You cannot clean the MAFs as disassembly ruins the seals and the balance adjustment. Typically about 25,000 miles and you need a new inlet system. It also has other problems due to the high up to 50% EGR flow, taken from exit of exhaust from turbo, large amounts of soot are introduced into the inlet manifolds which combines with the oil and the EGR heat to create nasty hard sludge and abrasive deposits in the inlet manifolds... which also jam the swirl valve mechanism. When it works it works well when it goes bad... usually shows either a catalyst/DEPF differential pressure sensor fail, a high EGR flow or a exhaust gas pressure sensor failure. This is usually misdiagnosed as a EGR failure, turbo failure, exhaust pressure sensor, or exhaust before turbo temperature sensor failure... when it is usually a vacuum leak, seal failure of intake plenum, or MAF sensor failure [people do the live data scan while you drive]. This puts the engine into a limp mode or a very reduced power mode. Sometimes on high milage cars, over 75.000, the acidic crankcase vapor moisture and oil mix introduced into the turbo inlet, passes through and gets caught in the anti-reverberation damper or inlet charge cooler too and can fail these by creating poultice corrosion, that is the white fluffy volumous corrosion often seen with aluminum that is in an acidic environment, and where the aluminum is prevented from direct oxygen exposure [which prevents this corrosion] by some means such as crevices or films of liquids like oil.
I might mention delete systems are illegal and dangerous to your pocket book and engine life. Now all this problems above are caused because of driving habit... those that drive on the highway and hard... no problems for hundreds of thousands of miles, those drive stop and go, and in cold weather with little time for a automatic DEPF regeneration or to warm up the engine suffer the problems.
I know this is an old video, and there has been much back and forth whether Bill is right on this. He is. After replacing the turbo on a 6.7l ford twice within 2k miles, i realized the tube from the ccv to the turbo inlet was broken, replaced the tube and filter, and guess what no more leak from the turbo. Crankcase pressure blocks the oil from draining from the turbo and it has to go somewhere...........negative crankcase pressure is your friend!
Damn, this has been killing me since you posted it, even though I know jack-shit about diesels. How could there be enough pressure in the crankcase that it'll cause seal problems if it isn't vented under vacuum? Wouldn't that point to massive ring wear? Let all the doubters (including me) stew for a while, but you've gotta post an answer, eventually.
I have a 05 f450 and a 06 f350. Both deleted crank case and no problems. Run much better and cleaned. And if this is so bad why didn't older engines have turbo failures.
I just bought a 2012 with a 6.7 and at idle I would smoke a inter section out with white smoke. This is after a full delete on the exhaust. I put the by pass on and found the previous owner had 3 gallons of oil in it. I drained it all and put the required 13 Qts in. Now I get some minor white smoke from the bypass. Plus the CCV was causing oil all under the hood and engine bay.
I've always wondered about the crankcase pressure issues this might cause. I don't have as much of a problem if someone uses a catch can to reduce atmosphere venting, but the vacuum issue, im curious to see. Might do a little test by watching venting from oil cap, see how much the CCV pulls through its path. GOOD ADVISE BILL as always.
Please explain how the CCV has anything to do with the exhaust wheel on the Turbo?? What really happens is you need negative pressure in the crank case to help keep the oil control ring doing its job on the piston. You will have increased blow by which burns out the exhaust and goes out the turbo nothing to do with seals on the turbo.
Cause he's talking out his ass. "Pulls past the turbo" Like does he not realize there is oil being blasted between the intake and exhaust side anyways. and if there was a leak on the compressor side those seals would be leaking into the valley. Letting alone ignoring the oil that being pumped constantly into the center section.
the turbo is not sucking on the crankcase ventilation tube..so we are creating just a tad bit more crankcase pressure than normal so the seals in the turbo give up.
Reading the comments & watching the video keep in mind old gas engines (which rev higher than diesels) vented the blow by to the atmosphere too. I don't see where the crankcase vented to the atmosphere should do anything to the turbo since the systems aren't connected & they are pretty much the same in all applications with the main differences being the RPM band they are intended to boost. Crankcase pressure/blowby will vary over the life of the engine so RPM isn't a factor. I still would recommend not bypassing the system, there is no reason to & you will probably just introduce dirt into the engine & may upset the balance of the emission/fuel injection system.
THE PLUS RICHE CANADIAN It is true that the crankcase vent is fed back into the intake for emissions, however the system was designed around this idea and altering it can cause other problems like the one bill is trying to explain.
Um, crankcases that vented to atmosphere were used for years and are fine; when a pressurized gas, such as that from crankcase blow-by, is permitted to vent to atmosphere it quickly does so. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) does draw cylinder blow-by from the crankcase via intake draw vacuum to burn it via the intake air charge, but typically PCV systems have a check valve, a one-way valve that prevents pressurized air from returning to the crankcase. Regarding the exhaust side of the turbo, you're suggesting the blow-by airflow from the crankcase via the PCV introduced to the intake side effects turbo pressure and keeps turbo seals from blowing on the exhaust side? First, intake air is readily available to the turbo via the air intake system, and the turbp doesn't care where its air comes from; second, the PCV check valve prevents somehow pressurized intake air from returning to pressurize the crankcase. I think you're full of prunes on this one.
I've watched a lot of your videos. Taken lots of your tips and pointers. But I'm not taking this one. I've had a ccv reroute on mine for years with thousands of miles no issues. Think the issue is not the ccv reroute its self or its concept. Its issue is ppl doing it wrong. Small hose small elbows weird bends and kinks in the hose. Mine comes out of the valve cover with a 1 inch hose and goes about 8 inches to the driver side. Then using the other plastic elbow on the original system with hose clamps is goes down gentle curve under the engine and exits on the passenger side of the truck running between the cross member and track bar. All 1 inch line no harsh bends. Think ppl use too small of stuff or thin hose it kinks or whatnot and blocks up causing the issue. That's my 2 cents on the issue. Q all the haters that think they know everything....
Im agreed with you, CCV is the best thing to keep oil vapor out of the intake system. As long the CCV is free flowing i see no reason why its going to hurt the truck.
