Cranking, running, and manual compression. Lessons learned & direction on timing code HScope/HS512 

That's the part that was getting me the first run. I knew there was going to be some curve to tranducer vs gauge but then again, wanting to see some familiar readings didn't work out lol. It's all a great learning experience, that's for sure. I'm retired and pretty much keep my friends and neighbors rides running, bunch of ministry vehicles. Need equipment on a budget that actually works, I'd like to get to the point I trust new school with it. Beings like I mentioned low cost, you wonder at first when things don't look right. With a meter I look at it like what is it trying to tell me? Then eventually it tells me lol. First tine runs with all non-matching electronic brands, it's like wow.. does it know what it's trying to tell me or is it me ? Good times! Yes that was kind of what I tinkered with , instead of manual compression on every cylinder, just check one after the RC was normal. Such an easy setup and 1/4 of the labor on a 4 cylinder. That's at least tech I can use!

Yes, I was thinking the same, but it's always hind sight. I should have used the actual primary ignition pattern instead of the signal. Going by the signal, I don't know what real info this would have actually told me. It did, however, let me get used to setting it up and seeing if hscope if the scope ran it ok. I was happy with it all except the piping for the transducer. I ordered some heavy-duty ones from rotkee. Seems the rigid pipe is optimal, the one with the kit is thin aluminum. The hose changes some of the readings and if a hose must be used, the heavier the better. Hope to get some more use when it gets here! Sometimes, good tools come with crappy accessories. For sure, if I need compression, I'm getting the old gauge first ! Take care!

Thank you! Every time is going to be more productive due to great comments. Now, the running readings make more sense. The ridgid tube leaves some to be desired on this kit, Rotkee suggests the ridgid tube where possible also. This one is aluminum for some reason, I trusted the hose more . The Rotkees appear brass , maybe I'll add a set of their adapters so I can use ridgid. Bernie Thompson I've started watching lately, but much to learn. Thanks again!

And best with closed throttle plate not WOT that’s why there is no valve train in the signal. It’s best to stop fuel or spark to start to get best capture

Thank you! I have seen the hoses modified, and that is going to be on the list. I was thinking more for universal connectivity, but that adds some food for thought. Keep this hose, if it lasts that is, and have one with the valve. I'd like to trust the transducer, learning the ropes!

@@manelishi13 i would suggest do a search and their good channels that gets into depth on in cylinder pressure wave forms and how to look at cam crank signals. been doing this several years now still learning. but the first one you showed did not look right to me . were you cranking or idling, but glad you are trying to learn .it does get better as you capture known good and bad. when i do a tune up on a good veh i take time and capture the known good. it gives you more practice and more data. also look at the wave form idling and activate the cam solenoid and you will see the difference also

@user-hi3pt3mv2i Great idea I never considered, I could have activated the solenoid and pretty much could have eliminated oil control. Looking back, I see a few things like triggering off the signal with an attenuator and such. Paul Danner taught me better than that, just not used to the setup yet like the old habits, lol. One good thing is I'll have another chance on it fixed, trigger from primary, and use scantool to see the vvt activating. That was one clue that sent me in to see if it was sludge. Activating from the tool made no difference to the idle. New phaser on it , new solenoid, so never ever worked. Just got the scope and transducer, so I figured there was no better time than the present than to learn. Boy, have I learned some. Thanks for the input, I am going to do an after for sure activating the vvt!

Manual compression hose has a Schrader valve and holds max pressure, a transducer is true actual pressure. I’m assuming that’s what you are calling a foot valve. Also rubber hoses with tranducers expand so readings aren’t as accurate, you need a high psi or steel hose in order to get the correct reading. Delta sensor just senses the pressure differential and can’t be measured in psi like the transducer can. Both have thier places. A relative compression test should always be first but not the last test.

Confusing, on scan data at idle, it'd around 18 degrees and won't throw a code at all in the garage. Snap throttle and all, higher rpms. Drive it and oil light flashes and throws cam "a" over retarded code. Has something to do with oil and/or the vvt. The solenoid and vvt are new as well, but that means never ever worked, lol. I bench tested the solenoid, and it works. The actual VvT, when I activate it through the scanner, I can hear it by ear change a little. Usually, a fast increase almost stalls a car. Next time I get it in, I'm going to check if it's not losing control or manually activate the solenoid and see what happens. As dirty as the inside was, might put a pump on, but man toyota pumps usually run forever. At a loss

www.ebay.com/itm/295879261262?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Hh7EQshDT5K&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rthafkrasbu&var=594085566744&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY sweet little tool!

@@manelishi13 Sorry I meant the Attenuators set ... I actually have this transducer.

www.martinloren.com/product/signal-attenuators-couplers/

I was trying to just confirm where the spark was occurring, I knew the compression from a manual gauge. Moreover, I wanted to see how a transducer compared to a manual gauge on a car that I can take my time and set up on. That way, the next time I actually need it is not starting from scratch. The car is running everyday and won't have it back for a few days. If I were trying to actually fix the car with speed,i would go right after the problem. Like I said, this is a learning experience on an inline 4, and I've been given advice from people who already know the equipment that is invaluable. Including from the developer, which I am very thankful for. If I actually needed any of this equipment in a pinch, I would be out 2 weeks for shipping otherwise. Better sooner than when in need, but technically, no, you dont need any of this to find a plugged vvt oil passage. It is nice, however, to know I can get something on the screen that might help in the future!