That's pretty interesting and a lot to think about. The random paint application really enhances the surface texture. I also like the shading around the rivets and hinges. It just seems to happen automatically. I would be very hesitant to try this myself, so it is good to watch how it works for you.
Spraying the hull with a dark brown actually gave it a nice worn dirty feel around the details, especially around the (fuel tank cap?) on the engine deck. Watching this has inspired me to grab one of these resin kits and try it out myself.
I won't lie, looking at this kit has convinced me to start putting together for a decent resin printer and learn to 3D model, if I can make something even half this quality I'd be happy!
Normally i'm not the guy to place a comment, but i must say i've gotten into the hobby about half a year ago and i love it and especially i love seeing the progess i've already made. You've been a massive help and when i'm in doubt or need help i always end up finding a video you've made that helped me a lot. Kudos and keep doing what you are doing
I'm excited to see how the model will look after all your subsequent weathering layers! Hopefully your airbrush work is more visible at the end of this project than on previous ones :)
Just decided to pull the trigger on a resin printer- hopefully in a week or two I'll be able to make some of my own designs. These things seem like a truly a liberating factor in the hobbying world. Now, if anyone can recommend a free or relatively cheap 3D modelling program, I'm all ears.
it depends on your personal situation, but if you have an email associated with a school/university, you can get a student license for Autodesk products, they only differ from paid with a "made with autodesk student" watermark.
Blender is what I'm using to make model railway prints, it's pretty straightforward to learn your way around and pick up maybe a dozen features to push out a simple vehicle.
No blender. Use Fusion 360. They have private personal license. There are some restrictions but anyway it is much better for the modeller than blender.
I've been watching your videos for years and, I'm always surprised to learn something new with each new video! Well done as always my friend! Keep up the good work!
Hello. I have strictly bo interest in modelling, but your "ma friend" weekly is something addictive. And the quality of your video is very good. I don't know why, but i love this weekly update from estern europe. Thanks.
AMAZING. It looks really great! I will try it maybe on my KV-1. CAn you also check out IBG models 1/35 kits like 7TP or KTO Rosomak? THey have full inside interior and they look really nice.
Also for a diorama it would be cool to see the ejected shells behind the turret, sense the auto loader spits them out the back, would be a cool detail to show it’s fired once or twice
Hi Martin, have you ever tested the „sea-salt-method“? You „mask“ the first baselayer of paint with a random layer of salt, stuck with waer to the model. This gives very nice, subtle and random worn paint effects if the second, third… layer of paint is appley onto it. Aircraft modeller use this quite often.
I think the French cold war tanks had more bluish-grey tint to the green, iirc the colour news clips. It looked like blue gray base, over which the camo was applied.
You have inspired me to start modelling! I got the Tamiya 1/35 m41 Walker bulldog and some basic tools. I have nothing for paints yet but I’m going to wait until I build the model
Although I’m probably going to start with a basic amazon airbrush. Do you have any paints that you suggest for American tanks? The kit includes Japanese paint jobs too
Hey, always love the videos. Pretty much my favorite thing to do on fridays and always looking forward to it. That said I notice that the pipod for the 50.cal or 12.7 browning as the french like to call it is very much green. Don't know if you going to paint it late (most likely) but they are always black in french army. I was with the legion for five years and the pipods and the guns were just blacked out steel that had been worn out over time to a mess of black and metal. Looking forward to the next week. Cheers.
Beautiful job Martin, really enjoyed this video, I’m still working on my mottling effect being rather new to the hobby but you teach us a lot and I wanted to Thankyou for all your hard work making these videos for us! Take care buddy ☺️👍
I really like the finish look of the post shading. That's a really awesome technique you have developed can't wait to see what you do to it next week.cheers!! Oh yeah hope your leg is doing good 👍. I know some times when people break bones they have problems with it after it heals. I broke my wrist 30 years ago and I have problems with it somedays. Hopefully your doing great 👍 and have no problems with your leg.
I would really be interested to see if this technique would work with lighter colours like dunkelb yellow. I think it works on mid tone colours like green and grey. But yellow might be different.
"Go" for the b(l)ackground! 👍 Yeah, these P-Touch printers are very useful; i have two of them. - Indeed, this video gave me some additional ideas for my still unstarted 1/16 RC Tiger I project... but i'm still undecided about the camo pattern! 🙄😭🤣
One thing I learned from Plasmo is that he applies decals and then sands them down a little so they become more intergrated into the model/paintjob, maybe it's worth checking some of his stuff out? Also, nice mug :D
Holy motley! That is a lot of visual texture! I like the idea of the heavier color variation, I think it can turn out well! (The new background is very nice)
I think you are one of the best model painters on you tube and your models look stunning. I am a firm believer that a model can only take so much content and I have now taught myself when to stop. I believe a lot of people over do chipping, especially on aircraft. I have seen some people try and copy the really weathered and chipped look of say a Pacific theatre P38 Lightening. Some of these were really weathered but if you copy one of these aircraft on a model I think it looks way over done. Its not inaccurate but there is a scaling effect coming into play.
Hi Martin, at firxt I thought it looked a bit messy and uneven, but when you appliec the clear coat it lookec absolutely fantastic, well done mate, best regards from Australia.
Everytime I finish a model I think… hey man you did a good job go you. Then I watch uncle night shift and can’t help but think bro… you got a long ways to go
Maybe it's just me but something about the turret reminds me of a frog's mouth, and the green/brown mottling on the hull especially reminds me a lot of the coloration of typical frogs I see here in the USA. No, that's not an intentional reference to the WWI/WWII derogatory French/frog joke, it's just the visual I get from that particular design. It's quite appropriate in the overall look. The mottling strikingly supports the intended illusion of mass and shape rather than a boring hollow plastic shell. In any art (yes, this is art, dammit) knowing when to stop is critical whether it be individual steps or the overall work. So far I think you've done well on that score. What you've got now strongly suggests random coarse-scale sun fading of the factory paint with just enough shading to make details "pop" as they say, so subsequent weathering etc. should pretty much automatically build on that without you having to second-guess yourself (I hope). A white background gives a datum level for color balance in finished-product images but yeah, a dark background seems better (to my eyes at least) for the work-in-progress videos.
I'm probably going to be one of the few people who disagrees that subsequent weathering completely overpowered your previous post-shading efforts. The fact that we can't immediately see certain effects doesn't negate the role they play in the final result. Still, I'm always interested to see your experiments!
I used this method in the past but was worried that it would change the hue of the base color too much. I also found it a bit more difficult to control the final color. I have since switched to a new method that, in my opinion, solves some of the problems. I do all the normal priming, and then overlay a fully opaque base coat color over that. I'll do lots of mottles of really stark colors then slowly bring the color back to where it should be (e.g. if I'm doing OD 41 for an early war US fighter plane, I'll do an opaque OD 41 coat, then white->yellow->yellow-green->light-green->khaki, all thinned at 9:1 IPA:paint). I'll do a 19:1 IPA:paint of a dark shadow coat (for the OD 41 color, something a bit darker than the base coat but not too bad) on the panel lines and other areas that I want to start having the appearance of being grungy. Finally, I'll spray over everything with a 9:1 thinned base color again to bring the color back to where it should be. I adapted my current method from Scale-a-ton's older methods and it works great!
Holy crap. I hope i get this good some day(And it still isn't done!). I'm planning to make 1:35 dioramas in the near future so fingers crossed i don't poke my own eyes out afterwards