But for once the wiring diagram was correct! There were no connectors in the other wire, and it was direct to the fuse. -> the fault coul not be anywhere else than the fuse / connector. Only if you could rely on wiring diagrams....
You have a logical and common sense approach to the diagnosis and repair. Regarding DeoxIT, I have had the same problem as you with the spray nozzle. More oil leaks around its base and drips down the side of the can than comes out of the nozzle. The o-ring idea is clever. After watching this video, I just placed the smallest size o-ring from a Harbor Freight o-ring kit on the white plastic tube beneath the nozzle, and it sprays much better now. Thanks.
The lesson of the day is stay away from Chrysler Fiat. Good video Ivan enjoy your troubleshooting methods and your showing of the schematic and tracing it out. Personally I think will be seeing it again. Thanks PHD and Ivan. ❤️
I have a 2007 Dodge minivan with 213,000 miles on it. I'm having some issues with the head lights being on without turning them on and the dash lights flickering and staying on and no gages working. So i will be looking at all PineHollowAutoDiagnostics video's for help. Thanks for that INFO I have a year 2000 Chrysler Concorde. Yes 23 years old with 132000 Miles on it. It has literally cost me nothing in 23 years other then routine maintenance Breaks / Tires / oil changes / Timing belt. I did do all the break line due to rust. I do recommend changing brake lines if are rusted and your rubber hoses. Did all the brake lines myself bought the double flare bubble tool. Wasn't too bad a job just keep track/ mark all your lines with colors. Mark all the brake lines at the brake anti-lock unit.
Intermittent fixes are so much fun! Did the customer ever come back about the rotted/corroded module? I'm glad you were able to locate that corroded connector. In the L.A. Calif area, sometimes "corrosion" was like a white chalky looking connector. Most of the time for us it's a module or sensor, or .....well, you get it. Except for the vehicles I saw that were at a different Dept of Water and Power yard over on the West side closer to the ocean. OH YA! RUST! Great for bad and intermittent GROUNDS! Also, having that current clamp was PERFECT for testing that circuit, eliminating the second Brown/Red wire. I was Envious of those clamps years ago, now I have those with the Pico, will be using those soon for some possible Voltage Drop and Current testing with my Fluke 87 Meter and the Pico. Fun times coming in a short while. Vehicle is running good, it's about to become the "volunteered" test subject! LOL!
Don't ya just love when the car gets fixed by FM halfway through your diagnosis? 😂 This was a great series on how to use a diagram and a little deductive reasoning to find a problem fast! Awesome as always brother
Ivan, you know as well as many of us do. They make the vehicles to make sure you have to replace them. Your videos have been a great guide on troubleshooting. Even without the fancy equipment you have, I have been able to solve many of my problems with my 2 cars. The 2005 Elantra has had problems with green crusties because of wiring placement. But I have been able to slowly track them down. Moe
Have you thought about keeping some silicone grease on hand to pack the connectors before reconnection? It is good good stuff, does not cause high resistance and prevents a lot water ingress to the terminals and subsequent corrosion. Gets used LOTS in maritime applications.
Great work Ivan, In hind site looking at the power distribution diagram for fuse 24 it shows the 2 brown red wires coming out the integrated power module. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work.
Good job Ivan! Not sure if the BCM data stream and cluster have PIDs for power supply voltage. That’s usually my first plan of attack. Agree not to touch anything while the fault is active. Gather info. Before touching it’s a must do for accurate diagnosis. Hey the old girl is going on 17 years! That’s 117 years in Chrysler:)
I must be one sick puppy... As an electronics tech (not a Prof. Auto tech...just for self and friends), I still find troubleshooting like this interesting enough to watch others do it. Good find, and sound reasoning, Ivan. If you wanted to do an even better job than the engineers here, you might've pulled the spade from the harness w/ a pin extractor, cleaned/pinched & lubed w/ dielectric grease, but I bet new prob's develop long before your fix goes away.
A 17 year old vehicle in the rust belt develops a mild case of the green crusties and everybody starts in with the Chrysler bashing and how lousy their products are. If the car was less than 5 years old you'd have a valid complaint. At 17 years, not so much.
Stuf like this happens wherever you find connectors & current regardless of make. As a routine, they heard ivan bash it, so they just followed his lead and piled on. Painful to watch, otherwise.
@@kmt01 In this case the connectors had no business being in that location in the first place. They could have easily been inside the dash where they were protected from the weather. And having the non-sealed connectors on the fuse box like that is just bean-counter cost savings. Pretty sure this isn't the first video I've seen with a Chrysler with wiring corroded in that location.
It matters not where the vehicle is used - it's more about the fundamentally flawed design of placing a electronics module and connectors in the least hospitable location possible. They must have been hitting the glass BBQ hard that day.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics "Before touching anything do your testing..." This is especially important for many DIYers as they don't always have the experience, skills, tools, or resources available to do the necessary diagnostics. For many (including me at one time) a diagnosis is look, poke, and pray or do code based swaptronics! Thanks Ivan.
hi ivan great video, i had the same problem in my 2001 dodge caravan. the problem for me was the power feed to the fuse is the little connector at the battery terminal. in the video yours had a yellow crimp conn and a butt splice further down the wire. mine was stock and just was loose. for whatever reason dodge did that i'll never know. every time i removed the battery i had a problem with that conn eventually i made the wire longer. love your vids Tony from NJ
If it weren't for the EPA, automakers would stop making oil pans, and go back to total-loss lubrication in the engine. Road salt, mud, sand? It's only gotta make it outta warranty ... 🤣 Great job, Ivan! Love these ones. Keeps me sharp by following along. I can't even remember my last drivability diag - seems they all went south for the winter. 😁 Knowing modern cars, one is bound to show up sooner or later. Oh, speaking of Chryslers, my brother's 26k mile '16 Ram 1500 was in for it's 10th warranty attempt (there's been leaking seals, leaking struts, peeling chrome, rusting chrome, vibrations, noises, etc..) - his heater core let go and frosted his windshield back when it was 2° outside. Just like the leaking struts, FCA denied the claim, since "they couldn't reproduce the problem". So he drove out of there to the Toyota dealership - a '19 Tundra is being prepped next week for him, lol. On his way there today, the LEDs for the mirror switches all went out. 🤣 I feel bad for the next guy ...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics - Just like my '07 Silverado, lol. I should've dumped mine years ago! Stuck with it now, until the body rots off the frame in 6 years or so (since it's garaged most of the time).
I have this van in a 03 model. And we have had problems with the transmission control module on really wet days. Dry up and it goes away. I am definitely going to get into that wheel well area and take a look see. Clean and seal some connectors.
The engineers prioritized cost of manufacturing over long term dependability. The modules are located where they can be rapidly installed and they run the wiring harness so that they can slap the car together in a hurry with minimum labor.
A lot of these modules are assembled by tier 2 and tier 3 ( read non-union ) manufacturers. They have to be easy to install other wise the line slows down. Line slows down or stops you lose money and bonuses.
Hello Ivan. Thats crazy. The ECU location is crazy. Wonder if spraying that down with Fluid film would have give alittle more life ? Lots of good idea's on Diag.
In my high school electronics classes ('93-'96) we called that "chip creak" a lot the electronic boards (microprocessors) we worked on had chip sockets so faulty chips could easily be removed and replaced. the chips themselves were pretty robust and seldom failed but back then computers were energy hogs and during the power on/off cycles the chips would expand and contract and "walk" them selves out of contact with the chip sockets (not completely out) but into a position that one of the chips pins would lose contact. So it became common practice to push on each IC and 'snap' them back into their sockets (it could also make for a "completely satisfying video"), and a lot of the time this simple act would fix the problem. This is why the "smack it" to make it work again actually works... You're jarring something back into place. You could've saved yourself a lot of time and effort if you just smacked it to begin with...lol (subbed)
That wiring diagram of the BCM was pretty interesting. Using diodes to protect the circuit from being connected backwards. Since negative flows to the positive the diodes are the ground in the circuit. If someone accidentally hooks positive to ground and ground to positive it won’t allow current flow. A little extra protection for circuits is the smart way to go. I give Chrysler kudos for that design
The use of the amp clamp to validate a wire is a very good idea, in fact a simple digital scope such as Hantek ($100 or so) would be a great investment for any autotech.
the computer was rusted out that lid was lifting and yet it was still working.... you got more balls than i do! if i saw that computer i wouldnt have gone further sometimes those sorta thigns looking for a quiet way out of life...i would have only gone further if the client okayed also replacing that cuz eff that
A vehicle is a vehicle, the engineering is what is flawed. If the modern cars have a computer network why route the wiring and connectors where they are in harms way? Engineers are more worried on how they can modify a truck’s tailgate than to protect the integrity of the vehicles network.
Yes. Absolutely insane. Wiring looms could be routed always more than 1,5 foot above ground and inside the car (ex Trucks). With less than $300 looms could be water tight and all fuse boxes under the hood water tight. ECM, PCM, BCM could be located under a hatch on top of the dash plastic. Easy access and dryest place. Can route some fresh air from blower to the units to cool those when needed. One mechanically standardised 300 pin connector for analog troubleshoiting. But no. Engineers put TCM behind the fenderliner. Open fuseboxes under the hood, wiring looms swimming in salt and rubbing through. If there was a car designed by engineers and not by economists and marketing I would buy it..
Well done :-D, that is one mickey taking car :-D I've done the same with faulty consumer products, it just starts working and no amount of messing around with wiring/pcbs/joints makes any difference. The ONLY way it fails is in the hands of the owner, so bloody annoying lol. What a stupid place to put connectors/modules, right near the road!!. How has it lasted this long?
Ivan I know about repairing cars on the returned to the custom. But on the these conditions I would definitely most definitely give a Stern speech to the custom on the safety aspect of the vehicle especially the transmission module cover I would at least seal the cover backup. And not even mention it to them
Thanks for the heart I feel special,, ha ha My car isn't a daily computer driven very little but would be nice to see the instrument cluster back lite up. And what the LED bulbs look like I replaced bulbs when I was checking the solder points on the cluster board and checked polarity with battery charger. will be nice to see them light up in the car and not to mention new light switch, Well I'm on too BBB for wiring diagram! Hopefully we will see that minivan back she's not going too far with that cv joint open to that road salt and water you got up that way. Do enjoy your channel I'd just as soon watch you fix cars and do the diagnostic's with the car computer than watch some dumb movie .
I really hope that was it for a long term fix, because wiring issues that were 'broke' before, then suddenly work w/o a definitive cause ( just a good working theory) always makes me nervous of a come back. Like you, Ivan, I'm a 'why' guy. Why did it suddenly fail, what caused it, etc. and flip side, why does it suddenly WORK? On the bright side, at least the hazards now work so that when the multitude of other issues the van has fails, the owner can safely warn other drivers when they are on the side of the road..lol
Nice work! There is more than one type of DeOxy. Some leave mineral oil behind. One doesn’t, but is for cleaning metal contacts. Your choice was? Also, is there a reason for not spraying the female part of the contact, other than it is rude?
Same thing happened with the vacuum cleaner i use at work. One day it would just not work, or worked intermittently. I took it apart, and the brush terminals were crusted like crazy. Cleaned the terminals, and the vacuum worked again.
"Damn, I fixed it". Normally that's a good thing. But not in the world of diagnostics. Great trip though the wiring diagram to understand exactly what your suppose to see.
My tcm had a corrode hole right thru it.failed to communicate and lost prndl at cluster.tcm was full of water.used unit in and coated with fluid film ...2 years ago still working fine.
Wow. Putting connectors, wiring and even an electronics module inside a guard, protected only by a guard liner when the firewall into the engine bay is right there... that's just insanity. No wonder Chrysler have such a poor reliability reputation - they've really gone out of their way to make it.
good video. module placements are stupid sometimes, BMW underhood by wipers in a bucket with a small drain hole that clogs, Mecedes under the seat that gets wet with salty snow, most last 5 years or so, you are right, planned to fail.
Would it be worth it to put dielectric grease on those connectors? And wow!!! Tug a wire, boom. It works lol. Poor Chrysler! Not, lol. I hated those vans, ex wife had one before, too many things to go bad to count to fix. She got rid of it, thank God lol!! Hahaha.
We're told that dielectric should be avoided on low clamp/push-on connections such as in this example, but it could be used to help seal the connector socket faces to help keep moisture out. Blows my mind he didn't spray cleaner on the connector on the wire ends too, and was in too much of a hurry to do the whole group in the box, electing to hope for more fails and chances to profit from extra videos 15:20...sad.
@@kmt01 that's really dumb!!! I've used dielectric grease on all my connections, they work great for years and stay clean and rust free! What ex you're talking about? You're a idiot.
I'm curious why you frequently use BBB industries when you have Alldata? I haven't touched BBB since I got my Alldata subscription. Do you find some advantage to BBB in certain situations, or do you use it for the benefit of your viewers who don't have a subscription data service? As an aside, you just sold me a can of Deoxit, ha ha. You've also sold me an OTC breakout box.
Wonder who the genius was who put the control module in the fender well? Talk about engineering to fail! Cars cost way to much anymore for this kind of crap! I believe I would have wrapped a grocery bag or something, around the module, to at least give it some kind of protection
Grocery bag would actually TRAP moisture and lead to an earlier demise! Sometimes it's better to just let things progress to their natural death without intervention haha
Some seriously stupid engineering here. The non-sealed connectors on the bottom of the fuse box can be dismissed as "mere" cheaping out, but mounting a module and putting connectors in behind the fender well like that is just stupid, that's not even cheaper. Why are those connectors even there in the first place? Put those inside the dash for god's sake..
Using the trusty "TestLight" could be Abolished? A Chevy tech rep visited the shop and announced, these newer car's (2018+) computers will get internal damage if a "test light" is used during troubleshooting because of a design change . What have you heard about this?
Haven't heard about it. If they design electronics that can't withstand a direct short to power or ground, much less the small current from a test light, then they are pedalling backwards! Also, a test light is generally used for testing powers and grounds, not microamp sense circuits. Regardless, I bet the Chevy tech rep is blowing hot smoke lol! xD
So if this car had lived in an area where it almost never rains, those green crusties probably wouldn’t be there, right? That is why cars in those nice climates don’t have as many problems.
The bean counters are to blame for short cuts. Instead of putting the computer inside with longer wiring, they put it in a crappy environment with shorter wires.
Seems to me you must've been a little bit tired to have overlooked not leaving circuit activated before wiggling that fuse box. Still another impressive display of your diagnostic skills. BTW, anyone else notice this was yet another "NPR" repair ?
Designed in obsolescence for sure. I would have filled the connector with dielectric just to keep the water out. Slide connectors will work fine with the dielectric present, and that one connector will still be sealed when they junk the vehicle. If I could go back in time, I would shoot Lee Iacoca. He was the ultimate penny pinching and cheep parts were his claim to fame. He would change the design to save one cent, and create problems for the brand later. Even though he wasn't around when this was built, his methods remain common practice today.
