I would have run the existing cables into a DIN rail enclosure and extended from that. Then run metal trunking from that enclosure to your new board. You could have also used singles then for the extension wires.
They are Blaklader mate, hard to find but here is the item number: 199816449900 They are called CRAFTSMAN TROUSERS 4-WAY STRETCH X1900 but there are a lot of other pairs with similar names so it gets confusing, expensive but the best trousers I’ve ever had and lifetime warranty on the seams, NOT sponsored 👍🏼
Cushty install buddy, loving the industrial/commercial look!! Only gripe, when carrying out safe isolation you need to prove before and after isolation, as you have no idea if the voltage tester has failed halfway through the procedure. Definitely worth investing in a proving unit for this.
First thing to do if the fuse "falls out" is to whack in an isolator on the tails so that you can lock off in case the fuse falls back in before the DNO engineer arrives... then maybe in future the fuse is less likely to fall out again!
@@residualelectrical yo mate just wanted to ask as you said that the dno is changing the meter i was wondering if it could be saved as i have been looking to have one for a while and also that radio telleswitch
Great video mate. Did you not think of doing one long knock out from top to bottom of DB with paxolin between DB and trunking? Just might struggle if you want to add more circuits in future..
I did contemplate it, but there is more than enough access to each section and a lot of the domestic boards aren’t designed to be adapted like that, you’ll see more in part 2 👍🏼
Clean install mate. Consider taking the main fuse out and putting the carrier back in, you made me nervous with the cables hanging around the open main head 😂
I’m honestly surprised at how you spliced those cables. I know it’s different across the pond, but I can’t imagine electrical taping a bundle of connectors as part of a high-end installation. I thought you would have taken the existing cables into an enclosure with din rail Instead. It doesn’t look professional, and now those joints will be difficult to inspect or work on in the future, since they are in-line with no slack.
There is no difficulty in inspecting the joints, they can be removed from the trunking due to the slack around the right angle, the tape can be removed and they can be inspected, the connections are maintenance free and they have been left double insulated. I never said it was a high end installation, I needed a quick and easy way to join the cables, this meets regs and it’s very common in the UK. An enclosure would have taken a lot more time, labelling and creates its own set of problems on an installation with this many problems already while also being incredibly disorientating for any electrician in the future.
16:44 Good pre-work between trunk and CU. Very good! In Federal Republic of Germany we pre-install all things inside CU too and use up or down DIN-rail for give-over all power lines from CU to outside. This make the make-over more easy and faster work at place to make all work more easy and fast. 😊
Hmmmm, Callum's comments on his chances with the 600 female viewers reminds me of a mate who had two girfriends who split from him and changed "teams" .... Nice video BTW
It’s a very good point, nothing is kept in the van overnight, and it’s all tracked and insured, I’ll have to weight up if the video is worth it I guess 👍🏼
@@residualelectricalDamn fuses always falling from the holders, really they need to make a review in the fuse cages. 😂 But in reality very nice job. The only thing I would do different was exactly what was said by other user, who was put a Wisker Wago Consumer Relocation Unit and then from there extend all the cables. But hey your way also works, you had taken the time to heat shrink and/or protect the connectors with tape so it is still in Regs. To be honest I have to agree that it is cleaner this way, when the trunking is closed is as it never existed in the first place and all the wires were already with the size needed for this new consumer unit. Keep up the good work, waiting for part 2.
I know I know, but you should be showing people proper safe isolation and proving that tester on a known power source :) It's ok, I'll p**s off myself :)
Sure, I’ve shown it so many times, and I have tutorials on it, I always try to show the full proper process but ultimately everyone is responsible for their own health and safety, not me 👍🏼
Hey Mike, cracking job. Actually interested in how you put together the metal trunking, if you have a quick bit of footage from that it would be great for the next part (as a flashback) Great work 👍
14:38 ". . .some guy" You David Fking Savery of David Savery Electrical Services (p.b.u.h.)? Lord god of Stella and homebrew? I don't know, apprentices these days 🙄🙄 Also, "sit in the van" is that code for 'shagged senseless for breaking his screwdriver'? 🤣
So that watch basically tells you that you are going deaf? Now knowing how much noise is created by a hammer drill and comparing it to Death Metal music, those listening to that music are basically brain dead. I would add several layers of gaffers tape or otherwise known as duct tape to the inside curve of the wire trunking just as an extra layer of insulation to keep the wires from chafing even though it might be smooth.
Nah I personally wouldn’t apply a de-rating factor, for 10+ cables contained in trunking “spaded” like they are it would be 0.90, which is nothing, but that is based on them being contained in trunking for 100% if their run, not 1% of their run, it’s the same reason why you wouldn’t apply it for cables within a board. There are unique exemptions but for this small domestic install we don’t need to worry 👍🏼 No problems with the questions, keep em coming!
Nice job, very well done, but we each have our own way of doing things, what I would do differently... Not fit AFDDs, replace cables rather than extend, fit enclosed MET, fit separate isolator between meter and DB, run trunking to the right of DB to avoid incoming tails running through outgoing trunking.
We only use on average 3 circuits for our sockets in an household, our appliances are fused at the plug itself which results in far less copper being used and frees up a lot of space in the fusebox rather than the rest of Europe who fuses their plug outlets at the fusebox.
A well planned and executed installation. I still find it odd seeing metal trunking in domestic jobs, it makes perfect sense when you have a metal board. When that pesky fuse falls out, I use a piece of gaffa tape over the exposed hole. I also kept forgetting my ear defenders, so I purchased the type you roll and put into the ear. I have packs in most of the tool kits and screw kits. I wonder if they will make a din rail mounted Guardian. The job is certainly future proofed.
Hello MIKE you could have used two inch bushes and galv couplings even more room to work with why struggle thats what i say otherwise a good quality install well done that man.
Yeah mate, Haven’t fact checked but I would assume the same rules for exporting PME apply as you would have the same potential difference possibilty at the outbuilding. PME is just a Rod at every joint, transformer etc upstream of the supply so the supplementary rod doesn’t change that, it’s just a fail safe and future proof 👍🏼
In my 10 years as an electrician I have never seen a domestic consumer unit to this spec.. 36 way, double pole AFDDs, SPD, Metal trunking, Supplementary earth electrode, it’s a crazy set up for a UK bungalow, so when I come to choosing a engaging RU-vid title “insane” is not that far fetched..
Apple Watch Ultra 2 - I’m a bit of a geek but there are are few things with my watch, phone and headphones that really help on site, might do a video on it 👍🏼
Argh mate, that is as rough AF. seeing this really makes we want to change my profession. I get extending cables, but crappy inline push fits and gaffer tape. Looks like some demented plasterer did the wiring. And you charge people for that?
It’s my understanding your not allowed to make joints in trunking,you have to box it. I would have just put a big galv joint box in where the cables come through the wall and tubed it or trunked it from there
great video mike. 👍 if this was pvc trunking joints inside the trunking wouldn't be allowed as you can remove the lid without a tool as I see it from the regs
@@HarryTheSparks the way he has done it in the video with non maintained connectors and heat shrink technically doesn't need anything as double insulation has been achieved with the heat shrink. The trunking plastic or metal additional protection. 👍
Sorry, as a former DNO electrical engineer with over 30 years' experience working with craftsmen of all disciplines, including highly skilled electricians, this just left me shaking my head! Inline joints wrapped in PVC tape in trunking? Seriously?! Also, why not populate your 'insane' distribution board and do as much installation and testing on it BEFORE even disconnecting the supply and disturbing the existing wiring?
Thanks for the insight into your expertise, how would you joint the cables? They are in an enclosure that can only be accessed with a tool, with some of the best in-line maintenance free joints in the industry, and double insulated via tape or heat shrink. In the video i mentioned that I could’ve used a junction box, this would require more labelling, more prep and more downtime, while also being one of the most disorientating methods for future electricians. I could have populated the board before hand, in many situation’s that’s the obvious move.. as mentioned I didn’t have all of the parts to build the board and it wouldn’t have made for a very interesting video.
Main CPC in different hole mmmmm. Tbh that looks like a pretty rough way of doing the job. Stuffing glands .....round cables really. They make flat cable glands. Bends also too tight. Sparks ain't what they used to be.
😂😂😂 - Nothing wrong with the main Earth going through a separate hole - Wiska “winserts” where used on the glands to adapt them for T&E - What bends are too tight? The T&E? The Flexi Tails? Your mad mate I don’t need my electrical ability validated online, I just enjoy my job and enjoy making videos, nice try though 🙂
