I recently released the 10mm Y-Axis rod upgrade for the Ender 3 V3 SE and KE models, check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vzOEuqaEv_4.html Also, If you guys liked this video I recently released the long awaited Ender 3 V3 Core XZ video, check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x923Bkr1TwA.html
I've had this printer for a while and there is one thing I started doing that totally enhanced how well my print jobs go. Periodically coat to outer edge of the nozzle with thermal grease or olive oil. Be it humidity or what, this prevented filament from collecting and curling around the nozzle. Extended my nozzle life dramatically. Nothing drastic, just lightly use a Q-Tip to apply it and my prints have been so much more reliable ever since.
@@ragnarlindell7447 you can but I would go more with an oil. The grease eventually dries out and leaves a residue and becomes clumpy. 3 in 1 oil, olive oil or even vegetable oil will work, just lightly coat the exposed edge of the nozzle and the bottom of the rubber cover. In all honesty, since I started doing that, I have not had a single misprint and comfortable leaving the house and letting it print while Im at work.
Best review I've seen not only for 3D Printers but also in general. You've provided answers to questions I didn't even know I had! I'll be sure to reference again once I get my own KE
My son (35 yrs old) just ordered this printer. We have both been watching videos of different printers and I figured he would get this one. I am glad I found your video. The rail leveling and nozzle adjustment are definitely checks we will do, as well as the z offset.
I'm sitting here inventorying the KE box contents and getting ready to join the 3D crowd. Really good video you made here. Going to have to watch it a few more times to get the full effect. Thanks for the help.
Got this printer as a gift after lightly researching printers and this helped me immediately troubleshoot and get started on my first print! Can’t way to use your mods and this video was so helpful!!! Count me subscribed!
Hi, I don't usually comment, but this was impressive and informative at a level of technicality I appreciate. I understand how to tune some things, but I'm not ready to root the Klipper firmware and upload a new versions. It's also nice to see someone singing praises on the printer I have. I have not been able to find that Z-axis compensation settings to save my life - everyone mentions it, and shows video of them changing it, but not how to get there! Anyhow thanks again! I love the parts you've designed and will look to you for more videos on the KE!
You can remove the horizontal movement of the bed entirely by taking off the bed, loosening the bolts that go into the L and R bearings. From there you can add a bit of tension between the rod and the bearings by pushing the right bearing right, and the steel plate to the left, and then tightening the right bolts. Do the same to the left, but in the opposite direction, and you will add a bit of tension that stabilises the barings, using the steel plate to take the force (you are basically moving the bearings away from each other by a few decimals of a mm). Remove the two belt bolts and move the bed around to confirm you didn't add too much pressure, and everything is running smooth. You can also try adding bit of toe in/out to the bearings if you think your issue is at the front or back of the bearing. While you are here, clean off the oil and make sure the rod is nicely lubricated and that there is no dust on the rod that might get into the bearings. Very easy to do, takes around 10 minutes. My bed doesn't move horizontally at all. I still have a tiny big of sag when weight is applied to the front of the bed, but I think that is just a consequence of only having 1 bearing on each side, you are naturally going to have some sag.
Agree with others. This was probably the best KE video. Most just talk about set up. Hope you continue to produce more informational 😊videos on using the KE problems you have had and solved etc. subscribed looking forward to future videos. Thanks.
I like that you were honest with the problems you had with yours. I have yet to talk to someone without a single thing that was wrong with there KE out of the box. For me my tool head frame wasn't bent all the way just like yours causing the CR Touch probe to be lower than the nozzle. After a long talk with Creality and after they tried to get me to bend it back myself they are sending me a new tool head frame.
Thanks, I do my best to report it like it is. I was hoping that because the unit I received was pre-release that maybe these were some isolated issues but it does seem like even the production quality control needs some work. Some of the fixes are easy and after I bought two more of them I wasn't thrilled that one had the crooked hotend - I let it slide a bit because of the low price. If I spent $500 on it I'd be more upset but I just fixed it and went on my way. I brought this stuff up with Creality and they said they were going to look at it so hopefully future machines don't have these problems.
Great video and now my go to video for my KE . I look forward to trying out your mods . I been very Happy with my purchase of the KE and been getting good prints .
The V3KE truely is a great printer. Thanks for showing how to levelthe gantry. The best part is this printer has support for input shaping and klipper rooting. Once you do those mods itll be even more of a fantastic printer. I loved mine but have since upgraded to a K1C.
Couldn't agree more! I'm very fortunate to get to test the different models - the K1C is great and so is the core xz V3 but I feel like the KE is the best bargain. The other printers are more capable out of the box but they are also more expensive. This is why I bought two more of them :)
Awesome review and trips / tricks! Got mine 4 days ago and it worked awesome out of the box. Will definitely check the printer after this video and print the mods!
Wow, I'm sure glad I surf RU-vid all the time, just stumbled upon your video on the KE, and was so impressed with your honest review, (I'm still printing on a tricked out Anet A8 from2017,) and am seriously considering the KE as a real upgrade, I just subscribed!! keep up your great content and truthful information. Thanks
Just noticed my nozzle was bent also, thankfully for this video. It wasn't the screws it was the heatsink attached to the nozzle was off. So, I just adjusted the entire housing. Probably the reason i couldn't get prints done right.
This really is great man! Outstanding video on this printer! Best overall review and suggestions on any 3D printer that I have seen. I wish I could see you do something like this on the Bambu Laps P1S Combo.
I'm considering buying KE or V3 and I found this channel, usually when it comes to 3D Printer review, I always go to Aurora Tech, because other reviewer is too bias, but damn I found new favorite reviewer, you deserve more attention and sponsor, but things that I want to point out is your concistency on reviewing printer, when it comes to V3 you do alot of vase mode, but when it comes to KE you focused on tolerance test, so I cannot really compare it side by side. Would be lovely if you compare the print result with the average same price point printer. Thanks to you now I'm firm on choosing V3 rather than KE, because I'm running on print farm and reliability is my priority (without burning more $$ such as X1C)
Thank you for the thoughtful comment! Good choice on the V3, my KE printers have been pretty good but the four V3 that I bought for my print farm have been more reliable over time. I think you made the right decision!
despite the awesome detailed video of the printer , the Gantry leveling was my golden tip in this video 🙌& how to left the z axis manually is what i wanted to know.. btw removing the filament from the top of the printer is the first thing i did when bought it, it shakes like earthquake
So if your thinking about buying a KE my advice is this. 1. Make sure this is what you want. 2. If you purchased it on Amazon creality will refuse to help with anything warranty wise. 3. Immediately replace the hot end with a micro swiss hot end because only 20 prints in my nozzle went full on Akira and created a blob monster that engulfed the entire print head. It took days to salvage parts and carve the blob out without damaging wires or the pcb board. KE parts are extremely limited and frustrating to get ahold of. Just be aware of that when buying.
@@EmbraceMakingi have 1 KE i was initially going to get a 2nd one. but then i decided to get the bambu labs X1Carbon. they are both awesome printers in its own way.
Unless I'm completely missing, which is probably true, I can't find the filament guide. I like how you attached to the spool holder to give it a good arc.
Wish I had read this one earlier, you're right I had the wrong link in the description this whole time :( here it is: www.printables.com/model/782069-creality-ender-3-v3-kese-overhead-ptfe-tube-guide
Hi, thanks a lot for your review, you are great, focus and go to the key point. I am wating for two v3 ke to start a small farm for factory my own robots, with two ender 2 "I am in love" plus the 2 new Ke
@@EmbraceMaking Seems like due to the bed flexing so much and gantry not being square, first layers across the bed don't go down well. It gets worse from there.
How did you fix the bent bracket for the head? My new Ender 3 V3 KE has the same problem and Creality are very slow to reply… Thanks for any assistance you can provide! You’re the only video I’ve seen that mentions this problem The bed level probe is dragging on the infill of my prints, so any time I try to do something that would require the probe to be suspended over the print I get a horrendous sound from it dragging on the infill…
I never did bend it - I ran it as is to see if it would cause problems. However if I wanted to bend it I would use either a vise or my shop press with bending brake installed. Yours must be really bad though if it's your probe that's dragging?? The probe should be retracted so far that it shouldn't be anywhere close to getting dragged... Are you sure it's not the nozzle dragging on the infill? I have a fix for that
@@EmbraceMaking I am not 100% sure it’s the probe! That’s just what made sense after seeing the slight tilt on the head So It could well be the nozzle! What is your fix for that? I’ll give it a shot
Not sure what slicer and slicer profile you're using... but try slowing down your infill to the same speed as your outer perimeters if those are looking okay, also set your infill width to 0.4 (same as nozzle), and if necessary reduce the max volumetric flow to keep the infill speed down. I don't know if its a cooling issue or something to do with the volumetric flow rate, but when you print the infill too fast it curls and warps upwards. Then when the nozzle crosses it you get that scraping. So you can make those adjustments and it should take care of it
@@EmbraceMaking I figured it out! The “Creality print” slicer has an issue where the nozzle will hit the infill if you use “cubic” infill… Also, the bed levelling from the factory is terrible and you need to shim the corners of the bed to get the mesh to an acceptable level My printer is now working a treat after manually levelling the bed close to perfect with shims and also using “gyroid” infill Search thingiverse for “Ender 3 V3 SE/KE bed shims” and you’ll find 0.5mm and 0.25mm shims that I made to fix this issue
That will help because I don't think gyroid ever crosses over itself, but gyroid infill is also considerably slower. Cubic I believe will cross over itself which is problematic when the infill is lifting. If you give my solution a try you should be able to use cubic again, or grid or triangle for infill speeds faster than gyroid. I'll check out those shims though, I know my KE bed is a bit slanted in the mesh - it's fairly flat but for some reason its tilted towards the front of the machine.
I am also finding Orcaslicer giving better print quality than Creality Print. Also am using Mainsail after enabling root. And it opens up a lot of features and customisation during print too.
Weird,Prusaslicer did it for me. Orca never produced good prints and i wasted days trying to fix this. Used Prusaslicer in standard config,worked like a charm. Funny how that goes
I just got one of these printers today. How can I drive the nozzle up out of the way manually using the touch screen? I can't find any information on how to do it. Can it be done? Thanks
Thanks for the nicely explained video. I just obtained the KE and found your video very helofull. On my first attempt of printing, the printed dimensions are all to big. I was wondering wheather you will be able to provide some info about the possible settings and procedure in how to correct that. Thanks in advance.
@@EmbraceMaking Thanks for the reply. It was off about 0.5mm. In the meantime I did the calibration snd reduced the flow rate. It prints fine now. Thanks again.
I noticed that my Ender 3 v3 SE prints are slant. I checked the printer's alignment and noticed that the z axis is not square (it is tilted backwards). I found a y-axis support kit to install on Aliexpress. There are also some options on thingverse. I'm still deciding which option I'm going to test. Any thoughts?
I currently have an Ender 3 printer with a 4.2.7 board and a CR Touch installed. I am considering purchasing a second printer and would like to know if you recommend this printer or if I should consider another model from the same brand.
Thank you for this. Just picked this printer up last night and found this video as I can't get the filament to go in and I have no idea why. Followed the process shown in this video and the filament just won't go in. Anyone else have this problem? Watched ender's video on throat cleaning and I can't even get that tool to go in with print head set @240.
I have the other new Ender machine the Creality CR-10 SE, LOL only Creality right. I did root the CR-10 SE and bought it because I saw on line how to root it before I bought it. I have a Bambu X1C with the AMS as well as two other Creality CR-10s.
@@EmbraceMakingLove it after even more after I rooted it. Now I can use Fluid or Mainsail to control my Klipper machine and really it's another Ender machine. Who ever heard of a 220x220x265 sized CR-10?
Great video! Thanks for your efforts. Very interested in getting the spool off the top and had started printing another solution for that, but yours is much more elegant (just wish I could buy the files and print it myself since that’s why I bought a 3D printer!). Would love to see a video on setting the KE up in Orca to print over Wifi on a Mac. Creality print over wifi works great but can’t get Orca to Wifi print on my Macbook Pro.
My Ender 3 v3 KE came with broken CR-Touch and with nozzle covered in white filament. I think I got used printer, because I see on your video that nozzle is clean. Plus I also got bent nozzle to the left. The CR-Touch problem is code 2194 and a lot of people on the internet have the same issue. This printer is good, but only if you got printer from good batch xD
I got the 2194 error using the Cura slicer switched to Prusa and no errors. I could not install Creality Print on my main computer because it had some SW conflict. I did install Creality Print on a different computer and the speed difference was way faster than Prusa slicer with Marlin-2 gcode. The Prusa Marlin project box took 7.3 hrs to print. The Creality Print Creality-OS sliced gcode box took 1.15 Hrs to print. It was flying. I have about 60 hrs on my KE and had to tighten belts (because I was getting X,Y bed judder) and Extruder mount screws just today. Made a world of difference. I used Elmers purple glue stick for the first time today as the the PEI bed was beginning to have some adhesion problems. NOW I'm very happy with the fast high quality prints I'm getting. The live Zed I will look at. Looks like a great tune for me to try. Love my KE. My first printer. I subscribed!!! Great video!!!!
I was looking for the ptfe guide on your website like you said was free but can’t find it anywhere the link you put in the description takes you to a completely different printer review. A little disappointing to be running around your website just to find nothing I was promised. But it’s ok it’s not that difficult to model it up and make my own.
Hi Brian, I just checked the video description - sorry about that - somehow the wrong link was in there, I fixed it, and for reference it is here: www.printables.com/model/782069-creality-ender-3-v3-kese-overhead-ptfe-tube-guide
Thank you for the great review!! I am currently trying to figure out the difference between the new Ender 3 V3 and the KE. Not seeing what the extra ~$120 brings you?? Order and receiving the KE today, but now I am wondering if I should return and grab the new 3 V3
New to 3d printing. I relocated my filament spool from the top, down to the side behind the screen. I am waiting for my ptfe tube, but once I get it, the filament sensor and the filament are both on the same side. The ptfe tube guide runs top left to bottom right (as you look at the printer) any recommendations on filament routing to make things not wonky? It's either going to have to not use the guide, take a longer than necessary (and possibly create a pinch point) route behind the printer.
Hey looking for my first 3D printer specially for building fpv planes and drones any suggestions Looking for one with good quality and quiet because its going to be in the room I am sleeping
Excellent video. I got my Ender KE in January 2024 and have been enjoy it quite a lot. I recently noticed though that the gantry on it is not square to the print bed, and tilts towards the back of the machine. I contacted Creality about the issue, but the response has been crickets. Do you have any advice for this issue?
Have you tried disassembling it to see if there is something obstructing the extrusion from sitting flat in the channel? Perhaps there is some kind of metal burr or something on the inside that is in the way ?
Great job i bought one after my k1 stoped printing the g code files from 3d labprint it does a great job of them but the k1 once i updated the k1 to the latest firm ware and rooted it i put the gcode files onto usb stick and it will home and calibrate and then drop the hot end temp to 140 and error 2111 any thoughts on that would be great Regards Bill
It can be - but I think you would have to be comfortable at minimum checking over the things I pointed out in this video. There can be some quality control issues that appear to be fixable by the user if you end up one of the unlucky ones to have a crooked hotend like me. I was able to just remove the screws and carefully put them back in straight. If you aren't the type that is comfortable doing those kinds of things maybe consider another machine that doesn't have these potential issues. That being said, if you get those little things sorted out its a hard machine to beat for the price
The blocks are just some random metal blocks I had from an old job where we used to make plastic injection molding machines. I don't use Cura because I can't stand the interface - I find it too busy and can never find the settings I'm looking for.
Goth the s.e. And a can print balbarrings. And a can print 0.2. You need to tune z. Offset by hand. And run a test print over the hole bed. A can print at 450 mms. Using cura. You also need to tune cura for this Speed. Everything fly.s. Off. For the wobbeling. A removed the spool and just hang on the wall. Then a printed two 90 Degrees hooks. And put at whit verry strong double side tape. From the paper industrie. And put against the z.axis.on the front. And a printed spines for the cables. And to day iam going to print the air flow. Yeah and iam going to order the k.e. For using a.b.s
Any improvements to stop the hotend fan sounding like its bearings are failing when cold, and being louder than a small vacuum cleaner once it gets going?
I don't have one yet... mine doesn't seem to be that loud but noise can be fairly subjective. Have you tried sourcing a higher quality fan? I'm wondering if the stock one is a sleeve bearing or something that wears out quicker than a dual ball bearing style
@@EmbraceMakingIt says a lot about Creality's quality control when they ship a printer with a nozzle that's incorrectly fitted, a bent bracket holding the hotend, a non square gantry with uprights that lean back from upright, and fans that fail after a few hours of printing. Your belt on the x axis looks like its rubbing on the left hand idler too.
We just replaced our hot end and nozzle. The first print was great! We ran the auto-leveling and auto z-offset feature and then during the very next print, the nozzle started dragging on the board. We ran the auto-leveling and z-offset again and the third print was even worse! We then tried to manually adjust the z-offset but when it brought the nozzle to "home" it came down way too hard and buckled the bed a little bit!! This has never happened before. Does anyone know why running the auto-leveling and z-offset would cause the nozzle to become so off? We don't know what to do now. 😭
I don't know what causes this, but the same thing happened to me. I immediately turned the unit off. Then when I turned it back on I did a factory reset and then did the "equipment self test" again. After that I ran a benchy test and it has worked fine since.
I was also a little surprised but maybe it had something to do with motor syncing (and cost cutting). I never personally had this problem on any of my dual z motor setups in the past but I've seen people talk about it... Either way it's belted and seems to be working fine so far...
@@EmbraceMaking a good upgrade print for it then would be a belt roller-tensioner system up top for the z-belt, making sure it never skips. Just a bearing on an arm that has a PETG tensioning "spring" pushing it softly
hi does anyone know where i can download the gcode for the fast benchy that comes on the memory stick you get with the printer. i have some how lost it i must of deleted it by mistake. hope someone can help thanks xx
I'm working on a linear rail conversion kit - I know that is not very helpful in the meantime but unfortunately I have heard a few people complain about this. Luckily mine wasn't bad but perhaps you got a bad set of rods or bearings. Have you tried contacting customer support about it?
@@frankhovis I also had this same problem. One of the screws was too short and didn't reach the rod. I ended up finding a little piece of PLA and put it in the screw hole and it stopped the rod from moving up and down. All my screws are tight and my bed still has terrible wobble. The only way to fix it is linear rails which a lot of people are working on developing now since this is such a big problem with the KE
@@ty8324lift the hotbed off and there are bolts that hold the bearing housing to the plate underneath the hotbed. They can be loosened and re tightened while pushing the bearing housing outwards , applying some preload and taking up some of the slack that's there. Its not a perfect fix but it can help a lot.
thank you! can you advise: my KE prints first layer not really well. On left upper corner nozzle is too close to the bed so its making scrathes, while right buttom - is too far so its printing lines. Manual Z offset in that case does not work, because its making it on the whole perimeter of bed and I have opposite situatuons in the corners. Maybe you know how to fix that? Your first layer is good on whole 220*220? thanks!
First check that everything is straight and square. Did you see the part in the video where I adjusted my gantry? Check that yours is parallel with the print bed. If it is, then I would preheat the bed to 60 degrees - set the nozzle height to z=0.1 or something small like that move the print head to some area in the four corners of the bed. See if your bed is very warped - also check the klipper bed measurement graph and see if the shape that it measures matches what you see in terms of high and low areas on the first layer. If it is extremely warped for some reason maybe contact the customer support to see if they would send you a new bed?
Is there some unknown law saying that only Canadians can make ender videos? No offence, but getting tired of always hearing everyone say zed instead of the right way of just "Z" (Zeeeeeeeeee!). :),
@@EmbraceMaking feeding the sample hyper PLA worked ok initially, but keep getting plug jams in the ptfe tube area of hotend. not sure what is wrong, this is extruding in the menu/manually w nozzle off bed etc
