The plug up top serves two purposes, one of which you aren't using, which is to vent when actively drying the filament. Once dry, it can then be filled with a ptfe tube to seal it up and keep hygroscopic filament dry during the printing process
Great demonstration! This is the same problem as most "dryers" on the market have. While the most manufacturers have worked on the circulation of the warm air inside, still nobody seems to have thought about that the moist air has to be evacuated somehow.
Interesting video. In practice, I found that it did work pretty well. I put a spool of Hatchbox Tranparent Black that I had forgotten about for a couple of years into it because it would snap at the slightest pressure. 12 hours later it was printing away with no breakae and no stringing. I think the few holes and the leakage around the door are sufficient to let the humidity out. FYI - the room I print in was at 38% relaive humidity and the drier went down to 15%.
A well sealed dryer would work with some peltier or even heat pump condensation device draining water to an external tray. As is these dryers are kind of expensive for effectively a simple electric heater and fan. Still might get one in a combo deal with a printer, seems convenient to use even with the little workaround to went humid air.
Your video deserves a lot more likes!! You just saved me some $$$, so thanks for that. I was going to order one of these, because of all the dryers out there, I really liked the design of this one. But the 2 major issues is in fact that the touch screen is a really bad design. Like you say, you have to press and what they've done, is not have the hard protective plastic over the LCD part of the screen with the touch element on top of that. I use Nextion displays that are also resistive touch (I don't like capacitive-too many problems when not clean or humid). Nextion displays have the touch layer on top, then a hard clear plastic below that, then the actual LCD element below that. When you touch, it responds without the actual LCD element being pushed in. The other thing, and frankly, this was shocking, is that there's no venting to the outside world! All it does is recirculate the same humid error. I don't know how Creality would design and release such a stupid design. However, I suspect that what they expect is for people to put a fresh bag of desiccant inside it to absorb the humidity. Which just defeats the entire purpose! Thanks for posting this!
Actually it is for PTFE tube. Insert PTFE tube to that black rubber grommet and feed the filament via that PTFE tube to your printer. But yes, If you do not want to print at the same time you can use that as double purpose.
@@Mr.Laidukas You'd use it to vent to dry the filament, and then once dry and ready to print and keep it dry thats when you use the ptfe tube and run it through.......
@@xboxusr666 When you unplug the PTFE tube hole it is 4mm in diameter. Does not sound like effective vent hole. Even if you rip out the rubber grommet completely it becomes 9mm diameter hole. And it does not feel like meant to be removed on regular basis as part of end user operation.
@@Mr.Laidukaswarm air in an enclosure cause pressure to rise and escape through any small opening to equalize pressure
5 месяцев назад
Cool experiment, thanks! My experience was the same. I placed a thermometer inside and monitored the humidity on a time scale. Without opening the lid the relative humidity will slowly increase and not get released (obviously, as the box is sealed), so the drying process will probably not be efficient. This is why I made an air vent spacer, which could be non-invasively attached on the dryer case (search "Creality Space Pi - Air Vent Gap Spacer " on Printables). The small gap is from my measurements enough to continuously release the humid air. (YT removed my previous comment, no idea why, so reposting this - sorry.)
Interesting... my Creality Space Pi needs a little extra force to fully close the cover. Otherwise it has a gap about the same size as the one in your pictures using the spacer.
Nice video! I like the experiment part. Maybe also try drying a dish of water again but this time leave the lid closed and compare. Thanks for sharing!
It can be easy to fix the dryer not actually drying the filament by drilling some holes in the back on the "plastic glass" cover or just 3D print a part that clips onto the top so that it won't let the cover close all the way, leaving a small gap.
I would rather opt for a less permanent solution I think you can just remove the lid handle , there are 2 screws that hold it on and then you would have 2 extra holes where the screws went, additionally someone could design a very similar looking handle that is just a bit shorter width wise and that would just clip on to the lid from the front, the clip can be thin but it will still create a small gap and keep the lid from closing all the way
There are two small holes on the top, one with a plug for filament to go through during printing, the other on the clear cover with no plug. I assume the latter is for venting. So there is a vent, but it's too small and doesn't work as intended.
Oh, I forgot. I think one thing that you should have done with your video, was to have a humidity sensor, that is calibrated with the one inside this box (so that they show the same humidity when together), but have it outside, beside the box to show the room's ambient humidity. This way, we could see the difference between outside and inside the box.
Nice work! I have just unboxed mine today and this is the first thing that occurred to me as well. My thought is that occasionally a flap should open to release humid air and then close again in order to retain the heat, increase the humidity again and then repeat the process. What you do think?
@@xjet It also seems that the temperature is not correctly calibrated and the humidity inside the chamber is not reading correctly either, have you found this as well?
@@NeedItMakeIt Yep, it's a bit sketchy in terms of accuracy. For best results I pop a bit of filament between the hinged portion and the top of the case so as to create a small gap. That allows the moisture to get out continuously. I note that the humidity sensor doesn't measure less than 15 percent. Still... it's pretty cheap and it *will* dry filament so I'll keep using mine -- that way the wife won't complain when she finds a spool of TPU in the toaster-oven 🙂
@@xjet Thanks for that. It seems to have quite a few nice design features, I have found that the spools don't roll well either. Nice work on your video BTW. I have a channel as well, and I found your video helpful.
Gal mano kambarys labai sausas, bet nesu turejes problemu del dregmes.. ir net nelaikau filamento maisuose dazniausia. Gal kazka labai kokybisko spausdini?
Geras video šia tema, skirtumas matomas net su PLA ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5CFxT1q6dX8.htmlsi=8wnAmbA0dBwzXQWU Aš dėl PLA nesiparinu, tiesiog laikau maišuose užsegtą, TPU maišuose imetu desican gel maišelių. Dabar nusipirkau Nailono, tai su tokiu kaprizingu filamentu nenoriu ieškoti nuotykių.
@@Mr.Laidukas kad skirtumas yra tai as zinau, todel ir paklausiau ar ka super kokybisko spausdini, nes siaip tai su dauguma filamentu aplamai matosi kad 3D spausdinta, tai cia jau kazko labai grazaus neprispausdinsi :)
i dont get it what are you talk about a hole in the top and you can drop in moister bags or drill more holes in the top! heat up fast and very good for higher temperature to dry filament
WTF are you talking about?? Water definitely evaporates at 55°C but it does not turn into steam. If it couldn't evaporate, you would never dry if you sweat, and we would all die from overheating if we exercised or had a fever, we couldn't even air dry our clothes. It would also never rain since the whole water cycle is dependent on that same physical principle. Air has always been able to absorb some water, and water is not solid above 0°C and will have some free atoms that can be absorbed by the air around it. Hotter air is able to absorb more moisture than colder air, and these dryer works on the exact same principle as a clothes dryer does but simpler. The moisture level is also a relative scale, so even with the same amount of water in a room, the moisture level will go down if the temperature goes up. 100% moisture level is the maximum amount of moisture the air can absorb at the current temperature, and any more, it will start to bind together and fall out just like it does when it rains. So water and moisture are definitely not totally different things. Moisture is free floating water molecules suspended in the air or absorbed into objects that can absorb these water molecules. Moisture will always try and equalize, and dry objects in moist air will try and draw moisture from it. Dececant bags works since they are able to absorb much more moistrue than other things and will therefore get more of the free floating water molecules but will still have the same moisture level as objects around it since it's relative moisture level is still the same it just have a much higher maximum then most other things.
Interesting video thinks for posting. I would have liked to see the box with the water run overnight with the lid fully closed. Everyone talks about these as "sealed" boxes, but they are no where near airtight. So it would be nice to see how much water evaporates with the closed box run for 12 hours vs with the lid partially open. THAT comparison would prove the value of your proposal. The mere demonstration of initial lower humidity possibly could indicate LOWER effectiveness because outside drier air is continuously mixing with the humid air around the filament, reducing the humidity of the mixed air. It would be great to see a proper comparison with hourly measures of water left (by weight) and humidity with both closed box and slightly opened box. This would also permit an estimation of the optimal opening to leave to maximize moisture loss from within the box.
