Creative Woodworking - How to Make Wooden Climbing Holds 

You're welcome. Thanks for sharing and enjoy climbing on your own holds

Gracias! Sí, el proceso de laminación aún no se muestra. Este todavía era material de video de mi taller de Nueva Zelanda, donde no grabé la laminación. Lo grabaré aquí en Alemania. No entendí completamente tu pregunta sobre el molinillo Makita, creo que se perdió en la traducción (traductor de Google)... Definitivamente es más rápido en comparación con el uso de un taladro. Principalmente por dos factores: tiene más potencia y es más fácil (mejor manejo) usar la sección del disco que está más cerca del borde (que se mueve más rápido y por lo tanto puede quitar más material).

Most of the chips from the powercarver are about 5 - 10 mm in size, so it is definitely less dusty, or at least there is less dust in the air (less fine particles). But there are still some airborne which is why I keep wearing a dust mask.

@@wurfttobias Cool, thats a real benefit actually. I made a lot of holds outside with a handheld belt sander and no extraction. It probably wasn't the best for the health.. In the future I'll have to be indoors in a basement, so I'm thinking about how to make it sustainable re the airborne dust. (Edit: actually kept watching to the end :facepalm:)

@@wurfttobias Not sure if you have mentioned it elsewhere.. Did you ever try out the arbortech turboplane attachment?

@@stevebarratt888 yes, I mention it in this video. :)

Thanks! I hope you enjoy the process of making your own holds.

You're welcome, Jake! Enjoy the journey! :)

Thanks, appreciate it! The laminated holds should be stronger and basically impossible to break. Furthermore, I can use much cheaper, thinner boards.

Thanks Juan! I'm still amazed by the idea that I record a video in New Zealand, edit it in Germany and you were watching it in Ecuador! Saludos desde munich :)

I haven't done it myself but typically it's done by using multiple layers of epoxy floor paint and add some really fine sand in between. Basically the same way textured climbing walls are typically made.

Thanks Paul! The smallest ones I made on the carver's vise were around 5 cm in diameter (footholds). But in my experience, it's more efficient to shape a long strip of wood and then cut it in smaller pieces and just round of the edges in the last step. I haven't really used rasps because I already had the power carving tools when I started making holds, but I think it's definitely worth using them before investing in new tools. I hope you'll enjoy the process of shaping your first holds.

Thanks! I uploaded this video a couple of years ago, where I shape more basics holds: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vpCxIB5dMug.html

I prefer a 6 to 10 mm wide blade with 6 to 10 teeth per inch.

That sounds dangerous! ;)

I have used both. A 4 inch belt sander is definitely useful for smaller holds, but a 6 inch wide belt makes a huge difference.

Thanks for the Reply I'll definitely go for this 6"

Would love to watch a video about how you source wood, this is what I’ve had the most trouble with.

Also, a question, how to you orientate wood grain when deciding how to use the wood?

Thanks Mariano!

I don't think it matters much whether the face grain or edge grain is facing up, as long as the end grain is not facing up (facing up = perpendicular to the plywood sheets of the climbing wall)

Sourcing wood can be tricky. You can check ebay, google for businesses that trade reclaimed wood, or ask people (carpenters, businesses, friends...) for offcuts or where they buy their wood.

Thanks David! Most of time, I'm using the fine (100 or 120 grit) sanding sponges made by 3M (a lot of hardware stores sell them). If you use a 10 mm drill bit you will spend more time with attaching the holds to the wall. It's always easier with a little bit of play. That's even more important if you use a drill to drill the bolt hole instead of a drill press.

Yes, definitely try it! Especially walnut is quite slippery when finished with 120 grit.

I haven't used the Kutzall discs, but the King Arthur's Tools carbide disc which I have used (and mentioned in the video) are probably similar. In my opinion, they are no replacement for the Arbortech discs since they are much slower and create way more dust. But as mentioned in the video, they are good for finer concave features.

Thank you very much!

Thanks! I just leave it like that. At first, coming from plastic, it's something to get used to. But most people get used to it. I actually prefer wooden holds now. They don't destroy your skin (as much). :)

I've oiled the top surface of a few holds in the past, just for looks. Wouldn't recommend oiling the grip area because that makes them slippery. I also sand the holds when doing a complete reset. They are basically brand new afterwards, but this won't work with oil or any other finish.

I am using 5, 8, and 10 mm radius roundover bits. Yes, for a consistent roundness but also to safe time. (A sharp edge isn't an option because it will rip the skin)

It's made out of Purpleheart laminated on top of Ash, so two different types of wood. :)

Any tips on lamination for climbing holds? Do you just use regular wood glue and planed surfaces?

Yes, that's correct. You want to have a little bit of play in case the holes you drill are not perfectly 90 degrees or the T-nut is slightly misaligned.

I start with 10,5 mm. You can always make it bigger later.