Crevasse Self Rescue With Prussiks - Ski Mountaineering Tips - G3 University 

I am writing this from the ceiling of my cabin. How do I get down now?

nobody will be at the top to help you get over the edge of the crevasse. They all went back to enjoy a meal and a movie after hearing you call them fools.

She makes this seem easy, but actually doing this is quite a pain

Hey Julia, You have a really nice teaching style. Very easy to listen to and comprehend. Thanks for the video. Please do more! Aloha!

re 1:55 & 2:09 NB She has one Left-hand, and one Right-hand prussik. Think about which hand can easiest control (set & release) the knot, with your fingers around the lines(tongue) and thumb to move the bend(smile) away(set/tighten) or toward (release/loosen) your fingers. Also, think about which hand you will use to move each knot during your ascent sequence. re 4:15 periodic fall capture tie-in: Consider using a biner controlled belayer(clove) hitch, which requires less effort & time: tie once, and periodically move it up by pulling & releasing the biner. re 0:25 & 4:50 You don't know what your fall did to your partner! She might be injured, sacrificing her circulation to hold you above the abyss. Ascent will also improve your opportunity for voice communication & coordination. When you are as high as you can get, put your weight on an ice anchor! That will allow your partner slack for slot extraction & padding of your rope, & might also give you the option of rope signals. PS: If your fall is during ascent, you are more likely to have access to the crevasse wall to immediately anchor yourself & release the dangerous & complicating load on your partner, who is probably trying to both, save you from wedging, and setup your rescue system. If you fall during descent, you might still have access to a solid wall for support.

"I don't know how it's going to take these fools to rescue me." Yet you're the one stranded in the crevasse! Never a good idea to insult your potential rescuers! 🤣 Just kidding, very well done and informative vid! Cheers 👍

Love the video - mechanically sound way to ascend using physics and simple configuration. Test the Prusik by loading it and see how it slides for you on the rope you are using. There is also the Icicle Hitch, Distel Hitch, Klemheist and others. See which works best for you. I enjoyed testing this out in my yard. Always test gear and mechanics so you know how to do this when it really matters. Thank you for the video, it was inspiring and got me to think about self rescue in an alternative to repelling. This knowledge can save your life.

I do a lot of outdoor activities I never carry full gear but always carry enough gear for survival situations. Learning techniques like this one in extreme cases will decide whether you live or die. Thanks

Lots of good suggestions below. 2:45 She did not mention it, but she did use a right and a left prusik. (More usable knots not withstanding) This makes it easier to just keep one hand on each ascender(of any kind), operating it with your thumb or index, and allowing a much more efficient rhythm of movement during ascent.

Fabulous video, clear viewing of technique and clear explanation. I wish all videos were this clear.

The best video I've seen for this!

I thought you were gonna sing once twice three times a lady

I'm unclear on the reason for attaching the foot prusik to your harness. What are you preventing there?

Hey great video. Nos Q : What's the main rope thickness in mm and what's the prussik loop rope thickness in mm...?

That was a great video,,also for TR solo getting out of trouble with ascender. Thanks I need a climbing partner like you.

Nice demosntration, usefull tips. Cheers!

Useful Polish invention. Properly called Prusikowanie (after the surname Prusik).

so fuckin cool! i came across a youtube short of a man filming a deep ass crevasse during a quick ski and i got curious how the f one would get themselves out of one should they ever fall down this death trap god forbid… i live in the tropics so idk why i felt i needed to see it done “just in case”😂 but i feel like i learned a lot from this video and appreciate the educational demonstration🎉🎉❤

I like how you keep your rig neat. Most climbers have a big jumbled, knotted-up mess going on and you can't even tell whats what.

We used prussiks in the Sapper Leader Course to scale a 90ft cliff. We used our boot laces and made pretty good jumars. And I’ve never heard “prussik” pronounced that way.

OMG!, you are incredible madame!!! I am ashamed of buying all the gear for the RADS, I should have seen your video 2 weeks ago! :p! thanks a lot!

But the reality is that the person in the crevasse is exhausted, shivering uncontrolably, becoming hypothermic, panicing if able to think logically etc. Many persons find prussicking almost impossible due to power/weight issues and prussicks overtightening as opposed to fit and light instructors. In this situation rescue becomes very difficult. I have been such a person in a crevasse. The two MOST important rules are: 1 "do not fall in" and 2 "whenever possible cross glaciers with hidden crevasses in groups" so that you have a high chance of persons able to pull you out quickly. This seems almost too obvious to say. But thoughtfull and knowledgeable avoidance is by far the safest strategy but requires a concious approach.

dats cool. I'm a sailing coach and you just gave me a fun thing to do when there isn't any wind :)

What length of cordalette do you recommend for the foot prussik and for the waist prussik? Is it okay to clip a biner + sling to the prussik if the cordalette is too short?

Once twice three times a lady! Lionel Richie!!!🙏🏻😘. BTW are those hiking boots?? Thanks

Great video. Just preference but when you are backing up the system you can use a clove hitch that way you can adjust as you go.

This is a great demonstration. You also make more progress than most of the Rope Access techs I see who are on statics with a jammer and a chest ascender lol! Fine job

Excellent explanation, thanks for sharing

That was actually cool lol

You can also add another prusik to pull with one hand while you push with one leg!

For the waist ascender I prefer the Bachman knot, the handle added in by the carabiner is pretty nice to have

Great video. Very easy to understand instructions. Learned something new. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻🏔🇳🇴

Still remember James Bond using this with shoe laces.

"Dress" a knot is the term you should be using instead of "clean"

Ни чего не понял, но девушка зачётная👍

What diameter is the blue rope that your hanging from.

Fools to recuse me. What about the fool that got stuck down in the crevice. 🤓

You can make them pretty fast with bowlines at either end as well.

I'm a flatland swamper, so I'm not likely to fall in a crevasse in the Everglades, but I enjoyed seeing how Prusiks work. Thank you.

Thanks for the vídeos!

That Julia person is a fuckin' rope gangster.

I posted this as a reply, but it's important enough to repeat in a top-level post. She mentions someone might set everything up in advance. I would go further. Don't depend on doing all this after falling in. Prepare the knots and place the around the rope in advance, storing them in a waist pouch. Then what takes her three minutes of fine-hand movements will take you only a few seconds even if badly injured. Keep in mind that it'll be far colder down in a crevasse. That packed snow & ice is going to retain the cold from the previous winter. It will be hard enough to retain your motor skills for the climb out, and that may depend totally on you. particularly if you're climbing with only one other person. Also, a crevasse may leave you wedged in tightly, with little room to move.

Very inoformative, great video. Congrats!

Wow, that was good to know, thanks!

Parabéns, boa técnica simples e funcional.

This is a nice video, really enjoyable and useful. I actually copied doing this on my own roof beams - great fun! However I noticed that the incidental knots she ties in the cordelette to make loops etc. are overhands on a bight. This seems a bad idea because they are almost impossible to untie after bearing weight (especially when wet). You wouldn't use the overhand on a bight when climbing for this reason. Just wondering if it's maybe better to use the figure eight follow-through knot even with thin cordelette?

How big is the cordelette for the foot?

How long is that cordellete?

Anybody know why the foot loop is backed up? Great video btw!!!

Keith Hut!

I need a practice cabin.

I actually did this on mountaineering course on an actual mountain. It goes without saying it was very challenging exercise as you are hauling your whole body up so very good level of fitness was required which I lacked at that time.

So good but so much complicated for me because of: My poor listening skills.. But mostly because my weakness in mathematics.

Thanks! I liked using a second strand of a leg prusik as a back up. The issue with prusiks is that you have to untighten them before moving up, while the advantage is simplicity. My favorite combo instead of prusiks is Cong Duck and Garda.

Just took a climbing course and was handed a Prussik , without any instructions. Thank you very much . I ended up wrapping the line around my Wrist and pulling my dumb bum up. It was painful, I did it and have the bruises to prove it. This looked fun , easy a lot better. Thank you so much

i like climbing trees, i started to collecting tools and equipment and i have also hand made rappel rack.

I've never climbed a rope like this but now interested cause I've got to get up in tree to trim. My question is why knot tie and alpine butterfly for both legs to work together . Seems easy enough but then again I'm just learning this stuff. M L Rogers

You are beautiful!!!!!

Great technique, James Bond used his boot laces to get up his rope. Can't remember which film...

Well Done! About to climb Huayna Potosi where I doubt we will encounter any Crevasse, but if we do I will make sure I have two lengths of rope on me to build some Prussiks. Very clear explanation and easy to follow along. Now just need to find a place to practice.....

Nice madom fower full, and goods job i like you

Very clear, good explained show, other YT videos shows fast moves with ropes and you can't say what really happened with particular knot and where did it go. Good video before going to any professional learning course.

Very nice.

clear explaination...

Hey Julia, this is an awesome video!! I’d love to set this system up on my own. What diameter and type of rope are you using for both prusik systems and how long is the rope? Thanks in advance! Hope to see you make more videos

Given that is is cold down in a crevasse and that you might be injured, you might want to pre-tie those knots around the rope and put them in a bag at your waist.

I like having one long prussik with a dont forget me knot at the top and a foot loop at knee level, Then with your atc clipped directly into your belay loop. Take the tail end of your rope coming from the atc and loop it through the carabiner on the dont forget me knot that way you can pull the rope through with more leverage when standing. also you just have to keep moving one prussik as well

My my. Cute smart and great to listen to. Thanks. Gr8 content.

I used this exact same way to climb up the mast of my sailing boat some years ago. Fun stuff!

Tuyệt.

Nice boots!!!

One of the best vids explaining the techniques great job

Great demonstration, what size rope are you using for the rescue prussik rope?

nice video

why do you have a woollen hat on, do you not have any heating,. or did you have a bad hair day, lol ps you have great boots

really nice demonstration! we use this in tree climbing as well, without the foot loop backed up to a carabiner. I like the back up, very good system. cheers for sharing.

How long would those two ropes be? The small one 1 meter, the second 2 meters?

Thank you G3. Prussiks are amazing.

Excellent video! Very clear and helpful. You are also very strong - my Prussik loops are rather shorter so the step-up is not so great. Many thanks.

❤❤❤

A fine refresher. Enjoyed watching.

thanks for the video, had to refresh my memory

LOVE IT!! super helpful guide

Great job. Thanks for the tutorial.

So i bet those fools up top are in a big hurry to rescue you.

Sweet used it to place trail cam . I gotta lose weight🤪

how the hell did I end up there after watching a wow video

Please secure or remove that black hooked bungie strap. Try Googling 'hooked bungie eye injuries' and you'll see what I mean.

Doesnty hurt to weigh 40 kg

Julie see you are at the Keith's Hut. do you do any teaching my son and I really want to learn more on the Techniques for Mountaineering :) Thanks

good job its was awesom video thank you

super good, thanks!

Nice. Could you run the foot prussic through a pulley off the harness, so you need not stand up, just push out with the leg ?

Great video and clear teaching style! Love to see more women killing it as guides :)

absolutely practical and life saving

how well would distels work ?

Why are you so out of breath?

Why knot ;) just use two Prussik knots - one on each foot, and climb up using them like a ladder. That way you're using your much stronger legs to climb, and are less likely to fatigue.

Nice julia i learned a lot

What a nice hut!