Hey Jake great video, I have done a ton of valve jobs but never a cam. After this video and the carbon can delete I have decided that it would be good to give you some support on Patron because both have been super helpful to me. Also when you were talking about being 180 out a little trick I do is pull the plug and put my thumb over the plug hole as I turn to top dead center, on the compression stroke if will be enough pressure to push your thumb away and you can feel when it's coming to where you need. But thanks again for the informative video.
I wonder about compression? Great video on a complex subject! Valve clearance effects timing, more than ya might think. But a tight exhaust valve, not enough clearance, can cause a bad day! The exhaust valves require seat time, to dump heat. If valve clearance is to tight and the valve grows sufficiently to reduce clearance enough to unload the valve it will bang shortly. Again, great explanation!
For those who don’t know a couple things to keep in mind doing camshafts. If you pull out a shim make sure it’s all the way seated in it’s home, if it’s not will have no/low compression. When installing cams always start on the cam away from the tensioner. Most tensioners will lock collapsed somehow read your manual for specifics. Do not over tighten cam caps will cause a whole lot of issues. Lube is your friend. Always spin it by hand before trying to start the engine last thing you want is to kiss a valve
Either it went trough the head or crank grab a wrench, take off the plugs and crank that sht.. after that open the oil drain or exhaust port, catch whatever gets out and throw it in the fryer.. its already oiled up and you’d finally taste what million year old dinosaur tastes like..
Jake, I like to use a micrometer rather than calipers to measure my shims, but my caliper is cheap because I am cheap. I had a guy struggling one time to measure his shims on a 636 he was working on because he was using calipers instead of a micrometer. I brought my micro over and got him steered in the right direction and got the old shims in the correct positions within the kit and the correct one installed. That was the only multiple cylinder bike I have done an adjustment on and I prefer the singles a lot more.
600 hp three cylinder korneggsegg engine is CAMLESS. Uses pneumatic valve actuators to open/close valves controlled by computer. No friction from cam/chains etc
own a cb300r and its a peppy little bike and I am enjoying it a lot... only bike I have "dropped" but was light enough to literally catch it and right it before it hit the ground lol
I ended up selling mine but I enjoy watching your vids. I will buy another 1 soon but when I got mine in March 21 there was no parts etc (now look at all the parts you can get). I can’t wait to see how the cam & engine is after 5000+ miles
I definitely prefer the fatter bottom end both for off road slow speed and road accelleration. The whole point of the flexability of this engine is the smoother torque transition low to high RPM. If it was an enduro or MX bike the higher top end would make sense but then you might as well buy a lighter more powerful model. Also reving it out more to get the torque means more fuel use. The minimal fuel consumption is one of this bike greatest strenghts. Also the ecu fuel injection mapping and the spark profile is going to be optimised for the cam profiles.
15!!! don't forget! I'm about 4-5000 miles away from doing the valve clearance check on my CB500X. I believe I can do it I've basically done everything else car/truck/motorcycle related besides internal engine work or top of head work but i have watched it be done. The biggest pain I think is dealing with buying shims. I've looked at shim kits and they seem very expensive but once I have the bike apart to check everything I don't want to be waiting days for a shim. Do they usually have a lot of shims at the dealers all the time? I'm located in DFW so i feel I can find individual shims easily but like you said even after doing the math sometimes it can be a tiny bit out of spec and need to be exchanged.
Them shim kits are a good thing to get. That 500 motor is basically the same thing with an extra cylinder. I keep floating the idea of getting a 500 motor and putting in in my frame...
@@TheGardenSnake I'm not sure of the weight/physical size difference between them are but I enjoy this 500. I've previously owned a FZ09 thing was fun but you're wanting to pull the front wheel up alot. This CB500x is the best all around bike i've ever owned and cheapest.
Almost bought one few years ago but got a FS650 instead. I wonder if this was any easier route to take. But I have to say that when it works it feels that all the work is worth it. I just love how agressive and pure it is.
Why does no one show the part numbers for the cams, 550 performance says cb/cbr cams but those have different slightly different part numbers and the prices are different between and 22 cbr300r and a 24 cb300r
For sure, I can't understand buying something so underwhelming only to spend more and still have a turd, especially on a street setup. There are plenty of used big bores in my market.
WOW, that was a lot less complicated than I imagined it to be... but then I guess if you know how to do something, it is a lot simpler than if you don't... now do... but I think I'd still want a friend to watch over me! :D
It would be worth it if you had to do a shim job/check cause of a service interval. Just an 80$ cam to gain a few hours,makes a big difference on low hp bikes
Just going from 24 to 27 hp would be a 12% increase in power, which is pretty big. Like he says on low power bikes every little bit helps. With all the work he's doing and custom tune, I'd be surprised if it wasn't even a bit more. Not to mention being able to smooth stuff out when you actually do the tune; factory tunes are generally focused on efficiency and can sacrifice some rideability. If it's "worth it" that's hard to say depending on how much all that stuff matters to each individual person. I'm excited/curious to see his dyno results in the end.
If it really gets 2+ hp gain at the power level of these bikes, for $90 it's literally going to be the best bang for the buck possible. Nothing else is going to give that gain at that price. For anyone even slightly mechanically inclined this is a very easy job.
The end result is always selling the bike after dumping money into the pit and buying a proper performance bike. If you are unhappy with less 30hp, you will never be satisfied. Multiplying small numbers still makes small numbers, don't be fooled by % performance increases under 30.
I rather have a couple less horses but decent torque in the low and midrange than two more horses close to redline. After all, this is not more cc, this is just pushing the power to another area of the power band. In the street bike version you may want more power on top, but in the enduro I want more torque down low, even if it means less power on top.
Hey Jake. Great video! Do you think stage 1.5 with the CBR cams is still worth doing while stage 1 shows very similar increase of power and torque but more spread across low and top end when doing only off road riding ? Thanks for your reply !
Good video. Didn't catch you mention that the cam shaft cover mating surfaces should NOT have any oil on them as you will get false torque readings on the bolts and your valve lash will be too big because of the oil between the surfaces.
I think the HP increase will be minimal and moved up in the revs range. Will the fuel input system need modification also ? Bigger injectors and/or intake tube ? I would rather have more power spread from low to mid range for my off road trail riding. Can't wait to see if you went with Yoshi or Akra or FMF or Arrow. Thanks for the vid.
Ok, Second Question why not use the Power Vision 3 for the cbr300r and flash the crf300l ecu with the dyno jet tune PV3-16-11 for cbr300r vs PV3-16-19 for crf300l?
I have been talking with dynojet, You can only flash tunes from dynojet to the ecu they are designed for. So you cannot flash the crf300l ecu with the cbr300r tune. However dynojet said that they could send you the Cbr300r tune files and you could use them as a guide to modify and build your own crf300l map/tune.
Are these gaps the same for my stock 300l? Dealer told me today/check valve clearance at 20 hours or 100 miles??? And change my oil too? At 100 miles? Looks like the cams have to be removed to change shims? Thanks Great camera work
Yeah it's the same gaps. And your dealer told you that for a CRF300L??? If it was a CRF450R ok sure if your racing. But dude no, it's got long maintenance intervals. 8000 mile oil changes by the book. I personally would do it a bit sooner but still like 3-4k is fine. Valve adjustments are like at what, 16,000 miles? Don't worry bro, go ride your bike.
Ahhh! I love what you’re doing. But the suspense is killing me. I can’t wait to see the performance gain. But thanks for pointing out all the emissions bullshit. I am definitely deleting all this on mine. And yes the paper air filter WTF! This is the first dirt bike I’ve had in 15 years and when I saw the air filter I second guessed my purchase. Should I have bought the 250x. Thanks for doing what you’ve done so far
Love your builds. You need a 2 stroke. Buy a Craig’s list used/old KTM 300 or Yz250 for $1000 and build it brand new with Your touches! 2 strokes really cheap to rebuild vs 4 strokes. Tell us pros/cons 2 strokes. I raced Montesa 125 and Cz400 professionally in the 70’s. I own two street bike so bought a KLR 675. Too heavy and underpowered for dirt. I wanted a 2 stroke and Less than 200 pounds. Bought a 2022 yz85. 24 horsepower/160 pounds. I weigh 150 pounds/5’7. I wanted to touch the ground flat footed. The new KX 112 2 stroke a little taller for tall people. I own a super Duke and a Grom. The Grom is too heavy and underpowered
He mentioned that the head seems to have been made originally for the CBR so they are essentially the exact same except the cam. You'd want to use the clearances for the CBR when you put in the new cam if they are any diffarent since those clearances are meant for that cam.
Question! Do they detune these motors on the dual sports to make the longevity better because the amount of miles will be higher? Or maybe its because of the govt having insane guidelines on vehicles driven on public streets? What's your thinking on this man?
Yes. There's no need to remove the cams again to replace the shims. Good video, though. Here's a guide to the valve adjustment on a CBR250R: roadandtrail.net/Guides/2012CBR250RA_ValveAdjustP4
Short but true story: Had a CRF250M in Thailand. Saw a used OEM cylinder/cams set for sale, low price, bought it, thought maybe I'd need it. Then somebody was desperately looking for these parts since his big bore kit blew up, so I sold it with a profit. A few months later the guy who sold the used OEM parts to me sent me an email asking if I still had those parts...
Hi Jake, do you have the part numbers for the cams and shims please, I'm in the UK and we don't have the CBR300R here so I will need to get them from Webike. Also, I can't get my ECU flashed because of EU laws, can't swap it either as the ECU is different to the US version. I plan to do the cams, full exhaust system, airbox mod and velocity stack. Do you think a fuel controller would be enough for these mods? Cheers, John.
If you go to my link for the cams the part numbers should be there. If ecu flashes are illegal then wouldn’t a fuel controller also be? It manipulates the ecu signals. A flashed ecu appears stock after it’s done. And plugging into it won’t pop anything up that would tell you. I highly doubt they would ever know you did that. The level of very specific equipment need is just too high.
Jake ,Apparently there is a ticking noise with the 300l 's engine when it reaches 5,000 rpm's I'm not sure if there is a ticking on the cbr300 or not . Have you noticed the ticking was gone after you changed the cams ?
@@thewizardoftech5075 I did some reading and the ticking does happen on the cbr300 also so its not vibration . Honda engineers put out a statement to the dealers that the ticking is inherent to the internal parts of this engine and you just have to get use to it , and it is a normal sound . So many people complained about it that dealers were all calling Honda to find out what was going on .
@@thewizardoftech5075 Its happening on both so its definitely not from vibration from a frequency according to Honda engineers . I was wanting to know if putting the cbr cams in the 300l stopped the ticking noise .
what about the CBR ignition timing? will you be able to modify the Ignition timing with the dynojet power vision 3? is it worth sourcing a cbr300 ECU? Im seriously considering the cam swap with Factory exhaust. think i could still gain top end power and better revability between 8-10K rpm?
I’m interested to know will this cause issues with your e start? My wr had yz cams in it and I was having issue with the e start due to the increased compression
