Smoking cigars, with laughing kids in the background, while wearing a wedding ring and working on a table saw jig. New subscriber from North Carolina. A handyman, who enjoys the occasional Rocky Patel smoke. Blessings.
Congratulations on the crossled to cut perfect 45 degree bevels for cabinets design. I would like to know the measurements of the base and and 45 degrees. thank you very much!
Well done! I have a 40 year old Craftsman table saw with a very good after market fence. It's very accurate for rip cuts and I have some nice crosscut sleds I have built for it. My problem is that the blade will not tilt to 45 degrees or any where close. I think it's a design flaw so I just leave it at 90. So this sled will be perfect for me. Thank you and enjoy the cigars.
Mikka, This is exactly the sled I was looking for. I am learning to build boxes and the 45-degree bevel is really hard to get right. Do the plans exist anywhere online? They would be very helpful. Thank you!
After looking at several bevel sleds I am going to use you design. And here is why I picked yours. Because you cut both sides on the same sled as you said if the blade is slightly off it will compensate for it on the other side. As long as you cut the pieces exactly the same the angle will make an exact 90.
Yes, a very good example of specialty jigs to accomplish accurate cuts. Have you tried making jigs for other angles, or have you made blocks of wood to add to your 45 degree jig to achieve different angles of joinery? Thank you for sharing this video.
I do a lot of mitred stuff, too...so this will be really handy for me, once I find time to build something similar. Thanks for the tip. Love how you smoke that fat cigar while working...boss!
I rarely comment on anything web related as I have to use my wife's account but after watching your video on this angle cross cut sled I have watched many vids on this topic and none even compare (except one by the professional woodworker William Ng) you explain everything straight to the point all bullshit aside so an individual can completely understand what you are doing and why? great photography / video skills also I really got a lot out of this vid and will definitely build one soon Great Job Mikka your a bad ass woodworker and a great teacher also keep up the great work. The part where you said this will make up for the blade being slightly off on the forty five on one side the jig will compensate for it on the other so a true 90* angle is created was what really made me realize this guy really knows what he is doing. Thanks a lot for sharing your insight. Brett!
Thank you so much for post this jig, I'm building the same thing because I'm working with highly figured maple that chips out on my chopsaw and router. I build small wooden boxes where even a tiny chip can ruin the corner. I also spied an Incra rule! they are the best tool I've bought in a long time.
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Kayson Randy I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for the Video. Seemed like a good idea. You intent was good I'm sure. I built it from 3/4" MDF. I had success on my test MDF pieces. Very straight/very clean. Using a Brand new CMT full Kerf cross cut 60 tooth blade. Got two kickbacks from this sled on my Maple project boards. Yup... once was not enough. Got hit in the stomach on the first one. sounded like a gun when off when it kicked the off-cut out at me. Tried again, while pushing the sled standing way to the side. exact same result. Seems to kick the off cut out like a rocket almost at the very end of the cut, pulled part of it through the bottom of the sleds kerf cut and exploded wood and chunked out a bit if the edge. I might salvage it by cutting it in two and trying just one side, so the small off cut can drop to the table and not just rattle around against the blade.
Wow. Thanks for sharing that experience. Yes - the more I think about it… the cutoff is likely to get squeezed below the blade. Solution ?? What if you cut the entire sled in half, instead of just making the kerf @ 7:39 Then you could make the left cut and right cut separately. Still have the complementary angles - so as to produce lovely 90° results. But your off-cut would have somewhere to drop away from the blade onto the saw table. Thoughts ?
I love this as my job site table saw is a problem getting the 45 degree bevel perfect for mitered grain wrap edges - I am trying to figure out how to make a similar one as you have shown but some of the details are lost on me to actually construct this - are there plans ? it would really help or a more detailed description - this idea just lit up my brain as a perfect solution - any more detail or info would be so great - blessings Scott Nations -
Very good. Almost made one for myself, safety wise a very bad idea. Be very careful for waste pieces, they will tension between the sawing blade and literally shoot out like a bullet.
Amazing. Thanks. Just what I’m looking for. How tall a piece have you run through it? I plan to cut a 30inch piece. Do you think this would still work? 🤔
Hi mike Thank you for cross sled to cut 45 degree bevels , I made one but I have to added clamps I missed drilling before all assembled but ,but still I can added hole to clamping ,could you tell me what kind of clamp you used in this fixture ,just tell me the brand name and where I can buy it ,Thank you
I have watched your bevel sled video many, many times so that I will build it correctly. How do you place the angled sides on the base to assure that the first cut will be perfectly down the middle of the valley? Do you place them to the center line you have drawn? Do the two 45 degree edges of the jig touch each other during assembly and before the final cut or do you allow space for the 1/8 inch blade? Would it be easier to make the cut first and then match the edges to that before gluing and pinning the jig sides? Thank you for this great idea and any tips you can provide me.
Gary Fairbrother you make a cut in the base plate as it become the zero clearance from the blade. Then you align the bottom center of the two 45 to the center of the zero clearance you just cut. When it’s all assembled you then raise the blade and cut the zero clearance in the two 45 degrees
Mikka Olsson: Thank you for the quick response. I didn’t pick that up from the video and thought of all the possible solutions except the right one. I bought the microjig runners, They are pretty short but I guess if they are adjusted properly they will work. We’ll see. Thanks again!
F-ing awesome idea man. 👍🏾👏🏾👏🏾 Did you ever think of making the bottom of the back section a little bit longer like the front, so that the jig don’t get separated if you accidentally go past the two angled pieces? I hope what I’m trying to say makes sense. 😊 btw. Don’t ever cut MDF without a dust mask. After many years of working with it I Just recently found out that shit can cause cancer.
First I agree about the MDF. The blade hardly goes past the 3/4" material so I have not yet cut through the back section. but it would be easy to make it taller.
Okay, so I built one of these, 90° perfect miters, however, I have to dodge shrapnel every time I use it because it creates hella kickback. Any suggestions?
Yup. I built one too. Seemed like a great idea. Same results. Cut 4 sides on a small test MDF 3/4". No problem. Did my project piece and got hit in the stomach with the off cut. Sounded like a gun went off.
@@curtismassengale yeah I fixed the one I built by ripping all the way through it, cutting a shim the exact width of the blade and CA gluing it to the right hand side of the sled to register the mitered end. Clamped the stock down and ran the left side through. Worked like a charm
@@justinrippetoe466 Can you explain your solution a bit more? It's just not clicking in my brain. Are you saying that you cut the jig into two parts, have them both in the table, place one work piece on one side, clamp it down, then remove the other side of the jig before beginning the cut? I can see that working because you still get the advantage of registering the piece to the other side of the jig, and the work piece shouldn't move if it's clamped down well (maybe use two clamps), even if the other side of the jig has been removed from the table.
@@ohgreatone9520 yeah that's exactly what I did, but since then I've modified mine so that now I just use a stop block attached to my incra fence to register off of.
