Hi Stan, I had a Dorenger 350 for 17 years. ( a Brobo copy). I liked having the large table with 2 vises to set up. Most of the time I used one. The table has a tee slot to clamp special tooling which came in real handy and it miters either way to 45 deg.. The cut accuracy with a good blade was + - .003". I really liked cutting an inch square tube and be able to stand it on its end with out it falling over. The slitting ability with yours is an absolutely fabulous thing to have and being able to miter more than 45deg. All you need now is a set of blades for different thicknesses and material. Really nice saw. Thanks for sharing. Bill Maguire
Nice saw Stan, and great video. I have wanted a cold saw for a long time. But that being said I don't know many tools I don't want. :{) Thanks again Steve Summers
Looks like a nice unit, slitting feature handy for making tube clamps. The vfd seems nice and smooth. Where I used to work they bought a well known name brand (colored green) cold saw and we found that blade selection was more important than what the reps told us. For cutting solids vs hollow shapes wrong blade = lots of chatter and took forever to cut. Build quality was IMO bad with lots of sharp painted sheet metal edges and the saw did not cut square when we received it had to be sent back after their tech could not fix it. As an added bonus the fence with stop that came with it was kinda a joke and was bent when we got it.
Hi Stan ! A very nice and nifty saw you got there - CONGRATS from Denmark ! So many smart facilities: Q-lock vise, the extra vise jaw, the 0-90° swing, moveable jaws and the vise itself - really very nice ! I have an italien similar type but much, much older and worn out but I'll "rip" some of the good ideas from your saw right away ;-)) I don't have VFD but only 2 speed slow runnung motor and I don't think you'll ever change the speed - let's see ! It a very nice saw for cutting profil tubing ... a little slower for masive stock ! What I found a little annoying even as a hobbyist is it takes up a man all the time - no problem with profile tubing because it's so fast - but for masive stock and the longer work time I wound prefere a band saw instead because it can run by itself - I think thats worth a calculation for you as a PRO ;-) Adjusting that lever for tightning/loosing the vise and angle is a pain in the ass on mine - but you hopefully have that in store for the furture ;-)) More details here in danish but you can Google Translate to the right just under the menu line - choose whatever language you like in the combobox: Here as a "show off" - second picture: kelds.weebly.com/mine-maskiner.html Here on a stalled project: kelds.weebly.com/hurtigskifter-til-drejebaelignken.html
We have a scotchman at work very repeatable and cuts straight everytime. One tip i'll mention but you probably have figured out, when cutting square tubes or even round for that matter that have a wall thickness that may allow the tube to flex under vise pressure it is best practice to turn the saw off at the bottom of cut and then bring the blade back up. The vise will not have the same tension on the smaller piece and i find that if i try to go back up with the blade rotating it may catch and make the blade jump up. Looks good!
Great video. This looks just like the Baileigh CS-350EU saw. Would you recommend this saw for a home shop dealing primarily with miter cuts on 4" and below square and round tubing? I'm struggling deciding between a cold saw and a band saw.
Thank you for the great video. Very nice tool. I have the Evolution 15" dry saw and it out cuts the band saw 8 to 1 with very nice and accurate cuts. A real nice saw for the home shop. I'm glad to see you have added that saw to your shop. Glad that you put these videos out for us. Thanks. Dan
Get yourself a few change blades, You'll be a happy camper as long as the blade is sharp, this is where the extra blades come in as replacement while the dulls get re-sharpen, normally the cost of good quality blades is pretty surprising on those... At least this is what I remember from some place I worked with one quite some time ago... ;)
You also have a few options on blade grinds to optimize for what you are doing. Different grinds can make a night and day difference in cut quality and speed. I used to have a Scotchman that cut thousands of 4130 tubes to make pushrods for race engines. As long as both sides are supported, you should get totally burr free cuts, perfectly square, and plus or minus a thou or two or better in length. With the right fixturing I bet you could cut Z square blanks, that wouldn't need any perimeter milling.
...Yeah, a friend of mine bought a Scothman...back in 1999....It was well worth the $$ and I really liked the vise, it was 'double' acting and kept the work centered under the blade....smaller saw than this one here...I think it was 10"... Cuts were excellent, repeatability like you say...couple thou.... and of course you could get many tooth regrinds on those blades....
Will it be okay to place a request?... I would like to see the method that this brand cold saw blade are attached and the drive method or clamping method of the blade to the driven arbor. I suppose you can just make that a video in time, if or when the blade needs sharpened or replaced in the future? No Hurry... Just a thought, as I did look at their website for this info, I wouldn't want to assume that any or all cold saw blades are interchangeable from brand to brand or size to size, etc.... heck, a kicka$$ video explaining the blade tech and theory I think would be very valuable. and maybe, just maybe, can save somebody's life, as there are a few idiots like myself that would love to simple buy the blade and slap it onto a wood cutting miter power saw and explode the blade. (I know better then that) I am just saying. I have put approx. 10 hours maybe more, into researching info upon cold saws and the info is kinda shotty at best. I suppose I could have made things easier for myself, and called the sales folks for all my questions. I suppose that they shouldn't mind, if considering the purchase of a high end machine like such.. I'll wait a week or two, to see what info you have learned or already know, before I call them.. Again, Thank you for the effort you put into your videos. Dru
The blade is pinned in with 2 dowels 180* apart, the center arbor hole is 40mm and is sandwiched between 2 large washers, held by a reverse thread bolt.
...They do tend to be a little noisy...especially cutting thin walled stuff like this....and that blade is a little coarse for that material, you see and hear it's quieter on that 3" solid round....
Hey Stan we bought the same saw at work last year, and since we're a fab shop we use it for all kind of stock, flat, square, tube or angle of all kind of thickness. We're having a lot of issues with blade longevity, got a rep to come by and said it wasn't really suited for the kind of work we do. He said those saw are more use for repeatability on same material. We currently are running a modified carbide tooth blade and that's what gave us the longest longevity even though it's running to slow. Let me know how it goes with yours, I'd for sure like some different input. (Also I would check your oil in the head it's very cloudy like it got moisture in it. Our is clear yellow (like gear oil) when looking through the sight glass.)
Very cool saw, thanks for taking the time to record and share the setup, tests, etc! This is the same manufacturer that generously donated a mill to the Bar Z Bash raffle, isnt it? they make some nice equipment!
If you don't mind my asking. What is the footprint of the base? What are the dimensions/measurements of the base? They don't have the size specs of the CS-350 on the site.
You Remember that Paul guy in history who said, " The British are coming ", well, Metric is coming too. Maybe you guys could do the same again, and show Metric the door, we are awash with it here and getting hard to find Imperial sizes, the exception is bolts. Cheers nice review!
Been using this saw for a couple of years now, after getting the protractor hard stops dialed in, I can hit squareness within a fer thousands of an inch, it repeats length cuts + - .020. Love the saw, but blade resharpening and "cost per cut" is always an issue.
I would really like to know why a company would buy one of those? It considerably raises the cost per cut if used as a stock saw due to the high cost of the blades. I have used them before, worked at a place that had 3 of them. The reason those were used over a band saw is because they were used to cut discs off rounds and the cut was less distorted than a bandsaw. The discs went from the saw to be mounted in plastic, then to the polishing table. Now you getting it, this is a lab, inside a manufacturing company. Once the samples were mounted and polished, they were etched, washed, then to the microscope for micrographs to be taken. Using this saw in this situation certainly makes sense because without it, polishing would take a real long time. You did mention something on using it as a stock saw, and my question is how could it be worth it for that? Another thing that could be important is that one must man that thing (pull it) unlike a bandsaw where someone could be cutting with 2 or even 3 at a time. FYI, the coldsaws we had in the lab fed themselves, no need to pull. I just would like to understand why a company would buy a saw like that. Using as a stock saw just does not seem, to me, to make sense because of the high cost per cut. But I do not know a real lot of the industry, I teach myself from scratch, just figure stuff out, do not know machinists to ask questions, get help etc. And so, I could be missing something as far as these saws go. Who knows, maybe I will want to get one, could happen.
If he is using this as a stock saw for stock other than tool steels for his squares, or whatever other tool steel or large billets he may use. It's probably a waste of blade wear using this for sundry metal cutting. Ultimately though if you have limited shop space maybe one saw that may be overkill in some instances is worth it...
Using stock with square sides is nice as you won't have to "square" it using your mill, lathe, or whatever. If considering the cost of the cut, making an initial cut, that does little other than square the stock up, on a different machine might be even more expensive and/or take a similar amount of personnel time. From another perspective, being able to cut stock nice and square also lets you plan your stock purchases more effectively as well. If your saw doesn't cut square you may need to add an additional mm or two to your measurements to compensate for the slop. The amount of additional material needed for the slop will vary based on the thickness of the stock. It's not the end of the world, but it's annoying. Also, if you're using expensive material, I imagine wasting it because every cut needs to be a couple mm long would get old quickly. Not needing to spend time deburring is an area of potential cost-savings too.
Very true, pretty sure he has a horizontal band saw and I don't doubt he has it set up properly to result in reasonably square cuts, the band saw blade wear might make maintaining that a chore. Anyhow, resharpening one of these blades in this size is 22 bucks. It's not like you are burning through $150 blades...
Stan. Are sure sure you put oil in the gearbox, sounds real crap.When you were cutting the round solid stock, I could see no oil in the sight glass. Our one at work is much quieter than this one.
Those cold saws work much better than the cheap Dewalt ones. I think my Scotchman one weighs 700 pounds. I had a very hard time getting it off of a trailer by myself when I got it.
....13:00.......Be very careful about 'leaning' on the feed pressure, especially for out-of-square/90 degree cuts....those blades are solid tool steel (like a giant slitting saw...exactly) and will fracture/break.....and there goes a couple hundred $$$....!
