I haven't read through the comments but I have a suggestion or two... flip the jaws around and you can hold closer to the end. That will reduce the jerky cuts you get because you're holding on to such a long piece. Shorter is better. Hold on to ONLY what you need. Also, start further away so you don't accidentally cut into the ferrule like you did on the first cut.
You just made me realize that I could flip the jaws around. I've always hated how much they stick out on this chuck. I'm an amateur machinist as you probably noticed. 😆 Thanks for the advice 🙏
This will hit harder now with a better feedback 4 sure.. People think it is just a piece of plastic and they are lost searching lower deflection properties, while a hard & sharper hit IMO is much more important for serious players. Great job.
Interesting. I do have a question though. If I want to further reduce mass at the tip end, can I simply achieve that by shortening the original ferrule?
Hi, Im wondering about the Cynergy's ferrule ? is it kinda "hollow" ? Could it resist hard massés ? Im asking because Im looking for a range of carbon low deflection shaft that would allow me to play both pool and balkine. Problem is : low deflection cues often have ferrules that should not be used to do hardcore massés like those we do in carom/balkline billiards. Revo could be the solution but the smallest cue they have are 11.8mm, it's quite big for carom.
All carbon fiber cues are thin and hollow, that's what it is a carbon fiber tube but filled with a foam that hardens of various density depending on the cue maker.
Nice job there man. Hey i bought a chinese lathe and looking for the way to put the second chuck on the back if you can help would appreciate it thanks
@@arsbilliards When I saw the cap I knew what it was immediately lol. Just so you know. about 1/2 as much as you used would get the job done. A little goes quite a long way with their conditioner. I have even reused the same amount that has soaked into the rag on another shaft. That said, those were G core shafts and and it may require more for carbon.
I would assume it gives the cue a harder hit feel. I personally don't think it affects the hit much. Mostly cosmetic and G10 is much more durable than the PVC it comes with.
@@arsbilliards I was impressed by you near zero runout with the four jaw chuck. I assume you dialed it in with independent jaws, correct? if so, what brand chuck is it and did you have any trouble adapting it to your metal mini-lathe? Also, where did you get the orange G10 rod??!! I can't find one anywhere. Thank you in advance for your reply
@@arsbilliards thx for the quick response! I know the second and thought that it is it. Yes, the first would important for me and I'm curious about. Thx again!
So i have 2 questions. 1 where are you located? 2. I bought the cynergy 10.5 mm tip (plays like snooker tip) but the ferrule it comes with mushrooms a lot. Is there any way you can change the ferrule of it to a stronger one? Is this the whole point for the video?
Obviously that's a nice job. But the question is still : why on earth would you replace the original ferrule by an heavier one 😲? If you want to add deflection to your cue, just buy a first price maple shaft 😅
Changing the ferrule to a harder material isn't going to make it hit like a maple cue 😆 it's still a carbon shaft . It will hit more like a Revo now. They use phenolic for there ferrules.
@@arsbilliards I kinda disagree. The Revo is furrelless in designed using their description. They needed to patent the Vault plate for the money. It's a sneaky new wording for "ferrule". I'm not sure what it's made of cause there's no description other then it "The tip insert can be machine from a single piece of material comprising glass fiber-reinforced epoxy laminate sheets". That's from the Patent description. Really that just states it's function and what it 'can' be made of. So just looking at it I would think it's made of carbon fiber. That way the carbon fiber doesn't destroy anything softer than carbon fiber. I could me wrong but I can't find any videos cutting into one. Carbon fiber doesn't machine easily so you could tell right away if it's carbon fiber. I do know in the past their ferrules were really soft. They would melt if machined to hard. It was a hard lesson I learned starting out. It was my cue so I will never do that again.
@@MrADVANCEDTEK I faced one to install a new "tip silencer" it cuts like phenolic. Im sure I'll replace a ferrule (Vault plate) on one eventually. We work on alot of cues.
Nice job im a machinist and getting the scrap off while the turret is turning is very dangerous will wrap around ur finger before u know and u will have 1 less finger
Derilin is so soft it just breaks, and it's not sharp. I remove it while the lathe is running. But I totally agree with you on with metal. Loose a finger, hand, arm. From a hobby gunsmith pov.
I have seen a guy completely loose a finger nail when emory cloth sand paper wrapped around itself and slapped the back of his finger. Material doesn't have to be what we perceive to be hard to do damage. Stay safe.
@@poolsicario5882 I'm sure the small weight change won't effect it much. But I see what your saying. I'll probably drill out the center of the tenon next time to reduce the weight. Predator revos and many other carbon shafts use heavy, hard ferrules. Some players prefer that hit.
I don't have the exact physical specs of G10 at hand, but, considering the length he used (pretty close to the diameter of the ferrule), I doubt it will perceptively flex during a 30 MPH impact with a relatively light round object (cue ball) that will easily displace on a very slick surface
Why did you sand the tip? The whole point of the Kamui Clear series is to NOT sand it first. You're introducing pockets for air to get trapped in, which is what causes tips to come off in the first place. You obviously know what you're doing, so I can't understand why you'd do that to a $30 tip
You shoulda always sand the tip and Ferrell for a better connection I’ve never had a tip replaced an they didn’t sand them an I’ve never had one fall off
But i don't get why still they don't use better tech to replace stupid ferule. You paying 500-600 usd for shaft and it's easy to ruin shaft if you do mistake while replacement. If ferule goes that long into shaft they could've made like a screw ferule.
@@arsbilliards doesn't matter still not original. You left at least a little bit part of previous ferrule. Point is why still they don't use screw style ferrule for high end shafts.
@@vio3667 You can't cut a thread in carbon fiber, even if the wall was much thicker that the average 1mm thickness used for cue shafts. Carbon fiber does not machine well at all; even cutting a straight and flush edge is not very precise. The fibers tend to come apart when you use a parting tool on a lathe, etc etc. One interesting question is, why not build the shaft with a carbon fiber plug already in place from birth, so all you would have to do is stick a G10 plate to absorb the impact and stick your leather tip on top of the plate. Then you would have a near zero mass at the tip end and it would be easy to change the plate if it ever cracked, right? The answer is.................I don't know, but if I had the ability to roll carbon fiber tubes with precision I sure as hell would try it. Don't be surprised if one day the Predators or Cutecs of the world come up with something like that and take credit for the idea.
