Cummins Grid Heater Killer Bolt Issue - Amps & Voltage on engine start 

it’s a pretty rare thing to happen is what I’ve read so far.

Not rare at all. Only people that no about it fix it....mine at 60000kms and failed the wiggle test. Now have to order banks grid heater...

@@mikecabot1617 Yup my 2016 with 120K just faild the jiggle test. Banks ram air going in next week.

@@richardcooper6050 I went with BD diesel after, mainly because I may go with their turbo set up down the road. Same purpose. Waiting game now...

Mopar is trying to use a oil maintenance loophole to get out of it

Same thing just happened to me on my 2017 with 47xxx miles. My private mechanic put his camera in the #6 cylinder and took a pic of the beat up piston. I dropped the truck off at the dealership last week and waiting to hear back for the warranty.

I am going to check out in the morning. I had left the key on my 91 d 250. I was not familiar with intake heating or the solenoids relays. Apparently ground wire had gotten damn hot. Trying to locate where problem is currently escaped my thought process. Any knowledge advice from you would be greatly appreciated.

Yea, I had a bad relay also and same code. I leave mine disconnected.

Where do you live? I’m wondering if this has much higher failure rates in very cold climates due to the heater cycling more?? I’m in Texas and have never heard of it happening.

Yea, mine disconnected also. Do it at the passenger side battery terminal. The red wire. Glad you saved the engine. This is unfortunately too common and Cummins/ RAM should address it.

@@MarionBlair does this mean you now recommend disconnecting the grid heater?

For just under 1k you can get the Banks Monster Ram part that is supposed to eliminate this threat, and provide better air flow. Would be great to have Marion's opinion on that part.

@@MarionBlair Hi Marion, thank you for this great video!. I wonder if your disconnect point at the battery post will trigger the DTC independent of the starting period, because the solenoid would not be energized, is not better to disconnect it from the solenoid output bolt?, also if a in line switch could be installed between the batt. and the solenoid, to enable the grid heater just in extreme cold conditions...should be a 215 amps. one?

The Banks Gen 2 grid heater is the best coarse of action it does come with a heater that takes the place of the grid heater. That’s what I put on my 2017 2500

Thank you

Same with me, mine runs so good it's scary

Add me to the list. 2014 3500 SRW. Running great at 104k.

I'm working my way toward doing the same thing eventually

Me too if I can get out of komifornia

Register it in Imperial county, it’s a no smog check county

Yea or make really good friends with the emissions tester. I lived in Ventura for 8 years in the 80's and they were doing exhaust test back then on the gas engines.

bayonne How would I go about this? Live in Riverside County. Need a address down there somehow? Thanks

thank you Mohammed!

Any update?

$24000 ? For parts? That has to be a misprint. That price would total the truck.

@@duckdog38 it would not total a truck that books 40k. It’s a 16 3500 dually this happened on total bill came to 28000. Luckily I was under warranty still.

@@georgeramsey2827 yes Chrysler paid for it. Came out to 28000. Just an FYI Chrysler doesn’t not cover injectors. They covered the one in that cylinder because of a covered item caused it. But original diagnosis was going to be out of my pocket. I actually bout an injector and replaced it and still had the issue immediately so I went further into diag

@@fknbossfabworx1067 wow! Glad for you that it was covered! That is outrageous. We better watch those connections. I wonder how quickly they burn up once they get loose.

Thanks for the info!

Thanks I was wondering the very same thing. I just baught a ram 2006 3500 6speed. Don't need any negative surprises. One thing I've learned is that solenoid REALLY draws that amperage down when I first start her up.

You should get your grid heater checked. I think it's every 60K miles. I just had some new injectors installed and my grid heater was cracked. New one went in.

wow, so sorry.

Yea, don't know how I said it but that what I meant.

Sorry. RAM / Cummins should deal with this

Look on the positive battery post on the passenger side. The wire that goes down to the solenoid under the air intake is the one to disconnect. Once disconnected from the battery, put a little electrical tape on it and tie wrap it to one of the negative post wires out of the way. I just realize you have a 19 but it’s probably the same.

@Marion Blair I unplug the red to solenoid and didn't stop it

@@shannonagee799 it will still show up on the dash but the grid heater should not be energized. Just go straight to the start without waiting for the light to go off so it doesn’t throw a code in real cold weather.

@@MarionBlair what do you think of water menthol injection

@@shannonagee799Not sure it would be applicable for our trucks.

No, it's very rare or RAM would have changed it by now.

Yes unfortunately, I think the dowel pin issue went away with the 6.7 not sure

Those 12 valve Cummins engines were KNOWN for that dowel and pin coming out. Much more common than this ever will be. Replace the timing cover and you were back on the road. Didnt take out the engine

@@robophobic3716 I've got a 2014 also, do you get codes with it disconnected?

Does it get codes with it disconnected?

Sweet, I love the Banks stuff. I just bought the Idash, My next video is going to compare the intake ducting wih and without the baffle. ha. Should put most to sleep. I'll eventually do what you are doing.

Marion Blair I love your videos, plenty of solid information, don't let the haters bother you. If they had any brains they would have there own RU-vid channel and getting paid themselves. Cudos to you brother! I enjoy them. Thanks for the hard work you put in to make them. And Happy Easter.

I appreciate that! No I'm keeping mine for now

My 17 Ram 6.7 with 20K displayed the battery saver mode last week for the first time and I believe it was from it sitting outside over night in the 20° weather. About 10 hours later the message went away.

Normal if cold outside. They do so to prevent blowing up cold battery.

Wow!

And now that I think about it, my grid heater dash indicator light still comes on during cold morning starts, but I don’t see the voltage gauge changing at all. There was a time when the gauge would move significantly during grid heater startups.

This morning the temperature here in north Alabama was in the 40s so the new grid heater in the Banks monster ram air intake manifold was tested for the first time. I’m happy to report that the heater worked perfectly and the voltage gauge moved accordingly and the dash and headlights dimmed right on cue like they used to. No telling how long I’d been driving this truck with a completely destroyed grid bolt/nut literally held in place by sticky soot. So lucky.

Thank you . Yes on remote start it will wait for the grid heater, but if you're in the truck you can more or less bypass the initial grid heat.

I know my dealer might be different, but I was wondering what the cost was for that?

Chris De Leon are you asking about bypassing grid heater or adding remote start? They quoted me $660 - $1000 at local Middle TN dealers. The 2017-2018 2500s and probably others have to be auto trans, have keyless entry, and immobilizer. RAM states 1.2 hrs to install but nobody I spoke with could do entire job in that amount of time, more like 2-4hrs. I ordered at Allmoparparts.com for $238 off their site, installed myself. That part could’ve been a hell of a lot quicker had I known how the C1 connector came off the BCM module under the dash. The gray lever will pop it off which instructions don’t mention. Add the hood latch switch to plug per instructions and plug back in. I managed to get semi local dealer agree to program two FOBs that come with Mopar kit for $125. Well long story short I left disappointed, everything took programming wise but truck wouldn’t start. Their parts guy gives me the part number I already purchased and installed online. They doubted I connected the one wire correctly and assumed I had the wrong kit. Parts guy quoted me $324 for same kit and said it didn’t say anything about a hood latch and that it came with a WIN module. Wireless Ignition Module. I was getting livid for trying to skimp and save then I’m headed home and realized my low fuel light turned on literally as I turned into dealership that morning. Added diesel. Remote start works like a champ now. It’s funny the dealership had all but condemned my stuff, tech didn’t notice low fuel message or didn’t put two and two together. Oh well I got it all done for less than they would’ve sold just the kit for. They only charged me $100 cause they didn’t think it worked and took it easy on me. I called Service Manager and offered to pay original price cause I made a bonehead mistake even though his guys were flat out wrong. He was cool, they were typical dealer grade help. Nuff said. Some guys have gotten way more from their dealers, I didn’t buy my 2017 from place I took it to this AM. FYI I suspect older models have more parts with their kits so maybe some of what they said applied to those years.

Ha, most think I'm Bob Ross

1080 - Canon 80D

I built the computer ASUS Z270 motherboard with an i7 7700K. I'm clocking it 15%.to about 4.8 gig/hat .. envidia 1080 geoforce FTW. SDD HD's. 32 ram.

Could be. I agree, it's not needed.

I say just plug in the truck and delete the grid heater before it's too late

2013 with 70k Same thing happened to me. Took out cyl 6

Mine's been disconnected for years. I'm usually starting in my garage but have had a few freeze temp starts with no problem.

Marion Blair if yours has been disconnected since new, I bet you will be A-OK, but if someone is ever near it while doing something to the engine, i think it’s worth deleting for better air flow. The ICT billet plate I bought was $70 and then $14 worth of gaskets from Orielly’s.

@@johnblevins897 Yea, not a bad idea. thanks.

It will be ok Ed. It will.

@@sumnerkinney2166 I'm sure it will, I do think the RAM/CUMMINS owners are a great folks. Thanks so much for your kind words.

Thank you Ed, I certainly understand. I think we all have those emotions from time to time when we see things like this but believe me this is very very rare, there are trucks running around with 300,000 miles plus that's never missed a beat

Gas engines have their own problems and live a shorter life.

@@givnofuchs5742 Yea, nothing's perfect. If you don't need torque and fuel economy when towing, a gas engine will do just fine. The EPA has hurt the diesel engine reliability for sure.

Diesels & Driveways me too, I’ve got a 2013, very good truck, and a very good engine!

Tiggle jest

Yes, thanks, I've had several comments about this.

Good move, I've had mine unplugged for years.

Like the Bank s system?

Yes Wade I heard about that one. that is a shame. I think I would have to take that fight up to the next notch one month out of warranty. That's just not acceptable by FCA.

$29,000? Maybe $15,000

@@bbubacz1 Invoice is in my truck.

@@bbubacz1 Remain on the web 18k look it up

Thanks for the feedback. Did it get into the cylinder?

Yea, I've had mine disconnected all through the winter. But I'm in louisiana. Cummins/Ram needs to address this.

Grid heater is after the turbo, right before intake valves, so like he said, if a piece of metal falls off, it will make it's way into a cylinder

Yes, the red fusible lead that goes down to the solenoid from the passenger side battery. Just tape or tie wrap it out of the way somewhere. Thanks.

Yes that’s it. When you start your truck, don’t wait for the grid heater, just hit the start button. That’s avoid a code if it’s really cold.

What ever became of your truck? Mine's in the shop now for the same

Normal when temp below 59 deg. F for a minute or so depending on temp.. I would disconnect it at the passenger side battery if you have voltage all the time and figure out the problem. The IAT sensor is what controls it.

I took the wire off at the battery, so if it touches ground, nothing will spark. The remote starter will still work.

yes I don't understand why Cummins doesn't address the design on this. I'm hearing more and more of this problem. Thank you for your feedback

Well at least it didn't trash the engine?

Delete, ha

Just disconnect it at the passenger side battery and when you start it, go straight to start, don't wait like a pre-heat is going on if you know what i mean. It won't throw a code that way.

@@MarionBlair so just undo the power cable at the battery? Also, if I do that and just start it right away wont the pcm still be searching for voltage? And see there is none at all and send a code through?

@@austenazevedo6078 Yea, true since the solenoid is bad otherwise it wouldn't know the difference but I'd try it anyway. And go straight to start. Unless it failed with the contacts closed, you definitely want to disconnect it then.Let me know if you do it, I'm curious. Mine is unplugged right now.

@@MarionBlair you just unplugged that lead to the passenger battery? How is your truck acting? Is it throwing codes?

@@MarionBlair did you end up unplugging your grid heater?? How did the truck act when it was cold and it would have wanted to cycle the heater? Did it throw any codes? I'm needing to get mine to stop throwing the code so I can smog

Yes, there doing excellent. thanks

Recently installed a set thanks to Marion Blair smooth as butter compared to the factory Firestones.

Ok, Is that with the block heater also?

ahahahahah - lawsuits happen -- My first motorcycle back in the 70s got 112 MPG -- Yu tell me what has happened -- Russian Mobsters have taken over this country - they are called russianpublicians - now "everybody" is on board for the under the table money's - and making vehicles complicated cuts out the back yard mechanics altogether - even if they own a shop ! -- Ram sued Cummins for the rights on the engines that have - Now even Cummins cannot work on or talk about their Cummins engines in ram trucks - how's that for Mobsters - anyway - the heaters have nothing to do with the emissions to my knowledge - cold weather easy starts is all it is for - mine comes on even at 32 degrees - which is not very cold - they claim it helps with wear and tear - HUH ? ! -

No, the EGR is not the problem. It's either loose from assembly or gets loose. I disconnected mine.

It sounds like the solenoid is bad (or PCM isn't telling it to energize) or the grid heater isn't coming on. Take a look at the grid heater bolt and make sure that thing passes the jiggle test. Solenoids are usually the culprit from what I've seen. If you've got an ohm meter, you can check the coil for continuity.

I haven't heard of that. Plenty fail, mine did however they usually fail open (contacts). There is a fusible link on the cable coming off the battery, I suppose that's designed to protect a complete melt down.

@@MarionBlair That makes me feel a little better. Thanks.

Just remove the wire to the battery from the solenoid.

Wow!

holy baby Jesus, my son suggested to fish a magnet inside the manifold and there it was sitting, ready to destroy my engine... or not.. pulled it out and its safely out of harms way!

Crap, I would have it towed to the dealer and have them pull the grid heater and look for it.

@@MarionBlair I pulled it myself today and was elated to find the nut and stud in the intake!.. NOTE- I did the wiggle test and it was loose and I am guessing the nut and stud fell off when I wiggled it... I made the right choice to push it into the garage and pull the intake and rail...If not for your video, my engine would be dead!.. Thank you sir!

@@sterlingsun3751 Thank you Jesus!!!!! Thank God. You are the man! Wow! Unbelievable! What a safe! You deserve an award. And Cummins needs to hear about it.

Right, don't wait or it'll probably eventually throw a code.

Possibly the solinoid

Did you ever figure out why your truck stopped pre heating? My 2014 is now doing this. Thanks.

It's been disconnected for years, don't remember when.