Hey Chuck, first of all, thanks for always provide great profiles for us. Also, I'd like to recommend adding a setting to them that I always add manually after downloading the updated version of your profiles. On the "Top/bottom Line Directions" box, add [90,135,180,235] , that way, when you print a flat object that must be strong, you have lines going in all directions if you have at least 4 top or bottom layers.
SO I finally put my money where my mouth is and joined your Patron team. I've learned so much that it just seemed for me to shut and put up......Thanks again for all the great tips and the profiles are worth the patron cost. I NEVER print on ordinary profiles man.
for the flow visualizer the colors didn't change between your profile and stock but the values did since the max and min flow values were different i think this tool is only really useful for visualizing flow changes in a single print and not for comparing between settings.
Okay, 1 comment was not enough. I can't thank you enough for these profiles! My print is looking so clean right now! So much better than the stringy mess I was printing before! So much stress has been lifted!!!
Thanks for bringing the profiles back. I'd been struggling with stringing and surface quality ever since you recommended we use Cura's profiles, and the issues disappeared with your new profiles. I've been getting massive under extrusion on small screw hole walls with your new profiles, which can be a million things. In my case, the fix was to set a diameter (8 mm rather than the default of 0) for small holes to trigger the Small Feature Speed slowdown.
Note: These profiles should work as a great starting point on any similar printer but I suggest you start with an Ender 3 machine profile and adjust its settings to match your machine. Then load the profiles.
@@FilamentFriday Hey i noticed the mm/s changed when you changed to your profile. My guess because just outside wall on this print its not showing a difference but rather changing the mm/s to match your settings.
i have a voxelab aquila used the ender 3 profile and entered my bed level size x y z min and gantry height curently using your 0.2 profile and i am blown away how well its doing after 4 clogs and tweaking prusa and cura im back to cura decided to give it another try and i thought it was working well today decided to print a bl touch mount and try your profile and i think i wont go back to mine :D thanks a lot and keep it up :)
@@carlitosur7949 I had a bltouch in the first week! I couldn't imaging living without it. I also added the glass bed and v4.2.7 motherboard. Woot had a deal for $150 when I bought the pro. When all was said and done, I could have purchased the V2 ;-)
Hi, just like to say thanks for all you efforts, just loaded your Cura profiles, they work great. You vids are concise and easy to follow,. Keep up the good work.
I think the flow part was the most interesting for me. I don't really stick to one profile. I am always changing my slicer settings based on what I'm printing, but I love finding these little gems in these videos. Will be trying the flow rate cube myself because I have noticed that the tolerances on some prints were rough, maybe that's it. Watched a few of your videos now, some really great information. Thank you for putting this content out for us.
Hey Chep can you kindly update the generic profile too for 4.10? I'm currently using the last version 4.6 on Cura 4.8 and have not updated as I don't want any issues as I imported with Cura version 4.8. Thanks for your consideration and keep up the great videos, you are a true benefit to the 3D printing community!
The acceleration settings is a great idea. As for your flow settings...maybe I'm old school but every new filament gets a temp tower then extrusion multiplier test cubes to determine the flow. I find even different colors of the same brand PLA can vary. Since my prints are large, I just need that level of accuracy Keep up the good work
NOOB HERE! if I can, I would like to ask you for advice, to do some tests on the filaments what do you recommend? since I like new things but I know that "old school" always has something useful to teach, and since there are a thousand temp towers, which one do you recommend? or is one worth the other? or should I do it myself (and I don't think I'm capable at the moment)
Love your profiles. As a relatively new user (9 months), I'm still learning all the settings and how they interact with each other. Your vids always explain things in way that even my simple brain can understand them. I recently switched my Ender 3 over to DD, and wondered how much of these profiles I will have to change ? I've changed the retraction and retraction speed, but something is still off. I'm not getting the layer adhesion I should be. Everything has been calibrated (not using a CHEP profile), and it's spot on. So this has me a little baffled. Oh, also, what's your opinion on using Linear Advance with these profiles.
Chuck i think you should check the numbers above the red color. Default profile red=2mm3/s your profile red = 4mm3/s. Some of your settings might be increasing your flow.
Hey Chuck. Will you by any chance be making custom profiles based on the new pre-loaded ender 3 profiles on CuraSlicer 2.3.3? Its one hell of a slicer and could benefit from your magic. For now these profiles for Cura 4.10 are untouchable. Thanks!
In the flow visualization when you are looking at your peofile the maximum value goes up to 4, that's why nothing is colored red, and most of it stays blue and light blue. When you visualize the flow on the standard profile the maximum is 2.0 mm/s. I believe the increase is due to the "enable acceleration control" but I'm not sure
Thank you I do use your profiles instead of the standard cura profile right for my start of Printing. My printer is the CR-6 Max so not E3 But I'm love my printer and your profiles
Hey Chuck. First off, I'd like to thank you for all your great work and how you share it with the community. I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I just recently switched the nozzle size to 1 mm but it isn't working out well. Do you have any advice on what else I can change in Cura to make the print work?
I think you misunderstood the difference between the user-set flow multipier and the "volumetric flow" (which is calculated and equates to the amount of filament extruded per seconds). Thats why you get unexpected results for the flow vizualization.
I found a video that explains that using ‘adaptive layers’ is something you would do to speed up your printing. I’m never in a hurry to get a model to print. So I guess I won’t bother with it.
Just noticed you uploaded 4.11 profiles! Awesome, looking forward to the video. Unfortunately when I went to import I got an error; (bunch of text, then) Quality type 'standard' is not compatible with the current active machine definition 'fdmprinter'. When I look in your profile I do see 'standard' but; I have no idea where the fresh new machine profile has 'fdmprinter' stored or how to set it back to 'standard'. Just passing this on, I will continue to investigate. If you happen to know what the issue is, please let us know. Thanks for all your hard work, the quality shows and the value of these videos is immense!
@@FilamentFriday In like Flynn! Imported perfectly. Don't know were I got the idea I needed to start from a scratch profile. Thanks for saving me from going further down the rabbit hole!
hi. great videos. i bought a ender 3 last month and just this week been using your profiles👍. i wondered if you could do a profile for a 0.8mm nozzle. i think my printing has been good so far thanks to your videos. looking to see more.
The flow you mentioned is volumetric flow, not extrusion flow. It’s how much filament is extruded from the hotend - it’s a function of speed, nozzle diameter and layer height. For example, if you are print at 50 mm/s, at 0.2 layer height and at a 0.4 mm layer width, it’s 0.2x0.4x50 and you get a volumetric flow of 4 mm3/s. That’s what’s shown in the graph, not a percentage of flow in your slicer settings.
Thanks for sharing Chep! I want to use your profile on my Mingda D2 which has dual lead screws for Z and a more stable bed mounting solution. Aside from the retraction settings for direct drive, are there any other changes that would be beneficial for this machine?
Flow is calibrated for every diferent filament from different brand.for example on devildesing pla i use 93% on gembird pla+ 82%, on devil desing abs+ 85%...so flow setting should be binded to filament profile not to printer profile....
@@FilamentFriday yeah the beginers.... 😂 . When still was strugling with geeetech a10 after two years of strugle and many upgrades and alot of yours and other creators videos.. Went premium diy way.. But still have to reference good old videos as somethings gets to be forgoten.. Btw do you use premium machines like voron, ratrig, hypercube or only china export ones as mainly those i see/saw on your videos??
This maybe a stupid question, but maybe not for just newcomers 😁 I have a geeetch A10 (read it kind of an ender 3 clone). Should I use it with the Non Creality profile or with the Creality profiles? Thanks for all work and shares
I Chuck, thanks for sharing this profile ! My only concern, is the grey area is wider than mine original. Where can I fix this ? I'm running on Linux Ubuntu.
Biggest issue with Cura is its so damned slow to start. So much junk gets loaded up, a lot of it being python scripts (with bindings to QT/QML!) that it takes an age compared to Prusa Slicer. A future version should be performance optimized, getting rid of as much Python as possible, deferred loading, & delegating to native helper functions to speed it up.
Thank you again for these. Does anyone know what adjustments may be required if one is using a wham-bam flex plate? Especially with supports and plate adhesion? Thanks
Do these profiles work with the Ender 5 Plus? I tried remaking a print that I wasn't happy with the quality on using the Ender 5 (Good) Profile, and all it did was sit in the home position while the percentage completed eventually went to 100% without doing anything.
Hi Thanks for all the cool videos you make. Can you tell me where I find setting for time back on print so it appears on LCD screen on ender3 pro Besdt Michael
Hi, I do use your profile for almost all my print job for cr-10 & ender machine But recently whene printing print with minor details filament snap. I did need to change retraction setting. As per your setting recently (maybe) compare to earlier both my machine extruder get too hot. May due to that filament snap within it gear. Please suggest any setting change or I need to check with anything else
I'm using Ender 3 V2 and using the best profile give me a very bad stringing. The only thing that I change for my machine from the OEM is the Dual Gear Extrusion with E-Step already calibrated. Is anyone have the same issue ?
have installed the 10 3 dyas ago - start to print in 3-4 hours the z axcel switched off! test it for 4 time and understand the problem in cura 10! switched back to 9.1 everything is goooood!
@@FilamentFriday yep have check on two printers and the result is the same after 3-5 hours of printing the z axle switched off and the continue printing but the z axle do not move up :(
Weird that you set flow to 95%. In my experience, Creality hotends always calibrate to under 90% with PLA on a 0.4mm nozzle. But maybe you use different PLA.
@@FilamentFriday yeah me too. I reckon must be differences in our filament. Also, I calibrate flow with a vase mode cube, rather than the double-wall method. I like your profiles though. I really only use Cura when I need tree supports, but your settings work really nicely for them.
Hi Chuck, I noticed all the bottom and top layers were printing in the same direction in both your Cura 4.11 and 4.12 profiles (smooth top) versions and found the setting of [90] in the top/bottom line directions. Does this affect any other property as by default each subsequent layer is 90deg to the previous one?
I was upgrade my cura to 4.10 but it still has not ender 3 max profile. but I saw that in your tutorial video... please help me to find it. thanks in advanced
These profiles have immensely helped my print quality. What recommendations would you have for going 0.08 layers instead of 0.12? On an Ender-5 right now.
I have a printer from another brand, but can I still use it? I'm a newbie to 3D printing and I'm struggling to understand how the various settings affect the printing, the test project that was in the printer was done perfectly, so it's not my printer that is the problem but the settings that I put on, obviously.
