For the last trick, you can add a door to an existing solid wall, then embed a curtain wall in the solid wall too. Still have to clean up gridlines afterwards.
Just getting into Revit and find your videos to be a great resource. But having been a glazier / building envelope guy for nearly 30 years, I figured I’d try and give back to you with some info on the differences between curtainwalls and storefronts. Storefronts are a lighter duty, less labor intensive than typical curtainwalls. I say "lighter duty" in that it’s not meant to go higher than 15-20 in height, span wise, not that you can’t have storefronts in an application above 15- 20 feet in smaller openings. Even if the mullions were loaded with steel reinforcements or had mid-span anchor points. Second, it just can’t handle the water nearly as well as curtainwall. There are impact rated storefronts out there, but they’re another animal compared to what we’re all used to seeing at your local strip mall or convenience store. Unless you live in a coastal area that says everything must meet Dade County building requirements. They look similar, but "beefier". Typical SF is 2" x 4" for 1/4" glass, some older systems, not nearly as popular nowadays were 1 3/4" x 4", but the 2" profile is more common since it matches up better with 2" x 4 1/2" systems that can use either 1/4" or 1" glass,(IGU’s, Insulated Glass Units, or what most people outside of the industry call them, "double pane’d",,, lol). Todays SF’s of the 4 1/2" depth variety can have the glass set to either front, back or the typical center plane of the frame, and can be set up to use a variety of thicknesses up to 1 3/16" thick, with 1/4" and 1" being the predominantly used. When you get into impact/ storm/ blast rated SF’s, the $ goes towards the "typical " CW cost range, both materials and labor due to their more costly materials and a more complex fabrication and installation produces. I believe the last impact system I messed with had a frame profile of 3" x 5" or 5 1/2", been a while, but either way, it looks like a SF on steroids. Curtain walls, depending on the system, are basically setup out of the box, to channel the water that gets in it, out rather directly and easily. The "pocket" where the glass sits, has been "slathered" for the lack of a better term right now, (I’m tired,,,lol) with silicone (typically, some use a butyl that never really cures hard, it stays in a soft, sticky, pliable state) at all frame joints, In the pocket area that will be concealed once the glass goes in and the pasture plate and face cap go on. The glass will be sitting on hard rubber setting blocks (or “Chairs” in some systems) that usually have a channel formed in the underside (It’d look like an upside down "U") that aids in 1: keeping the bottom edge of the glass from contacting the metal framing (no bueno), and 2nd, it keeps it from sitting in the water, which over time would shorten the lifespan of the IGU (typically, sometimes laminated glass, or a combination, sometimes of both) sitting in water would eventually deteriorate the seal of the IGU and cause it to fog up internally. Everyone has seen it before, window looks frosty or foggy starting from the bottom. Bu back to the curtain wall, water is free to flow out through "weep holes" purposely drilled in particular areas through the pressure plate that holds the glass in then out from behind the face cap trim either through holes drilled in the bottom edge of the face cap “trim” or as some manufacturer’s call for, cutting the face cap short leaving a gap for the water to exit. In a pressure plate curtain wall system, each piece of glass is isolated from one another in this way or similar. Because it’s not a matter of “if” water gets into the system, but rather "when" it gets in. It’s going to happen, and the system is designed to handle it. Just think of how much water runs down the face of any given building. Storefronts have some items like water diverters, but those are just to help keep the water from running down onto the top edge of the IGU, but the system just can’t handle the water infiltration. The curtain wall I was just dest describing would be considered a “stick” or “ladder” built system. You can either build sections that would resemble a ladder where you stand up the “ladders” and fill in the in between bays with your horizontal’s then stand up your next ladder section and repeat and repeat until you’ve filled in the width of your frame. Then you can stack more on top continuing up as needed. There are splices for the vertical mullions to keep them aligned, but the locations of those have to be designed into the system for the project along with the attachments to the structure. At the bottom, there will typically always be a dead-load anchor point, and any mid span points and a even at gather top of a given vertical, you’ll have wind load attachments. They would be slotted vertically to allow for expansion, but kEep the mullion in place, front, back and side to side. If you’re stacking another section on top, you’ll have a dead anchor, basically suspending it, carrying the load of the next section while the splice sleeve aligning the two is only attached one or the other to allow the section below to grow and shrink as temperatures change. Again, this has just been about stick built. Curtain wall, Unitised, or "cassette" type as I’ve heard it referred to, are a completely different beast. I’ve had little exposure to them, and no experience with the fab or install of them, but have seen a few going up. They are basically fabricated and assembled in a location that definitely isn’t on the job site. They’re even glazed in the shop as the sections are being assembled. But a lot of work goes into the layout and coordination of locating and prepping embeds that were cast into the edges of the slabs, then use special types of brackets to connect the panels to the floor slabs. Think about the precision those guys have to work with,,,, they are basically hanging these panels on theses brackets while interlocking with the panel below, remember now, it’s going to be a slip-fit connection in reverse of the stick built type, these panels hang from the slab above so they have to have to keep it elevated above the below which is also hanging above another and they have to have room to expand downward,,,,,. Oh yeah, they also have to interlock it with the panel next to it,,,,,,, it’s a dance! Anyways,,, like I said, I figured I give you some insight to the systems I’ve been watching you create in these video and give something back since I can only hit the like button once,,,,lol I’ve been using AutoCAD for a number of years doing shop drawings for smaller projects, I don’t have the university education to do do any engineering for large projects, but have enough hands on hands on experience along with enough common sense to do design work interpreting what an architects wants into actual parts and pieces to try and bring that vision to life. So I’m working on learning Revit to add to what I’m already doing in Cad and SketchUp. Keep up the good work you’re doing, it is greatly appreciated
I'm working in a glass partition company they need Revit software for creating panel details and scheduling. But if I need any space between glass and mullion it's not possible. Is there any other way for creating it. please help me
Whats the best way to put the curtain wall sitting on a curb with a door going all the way to the floor? I always get errors when I edit the curtain wall profile.
