I like that the bike you seem to enjoy the most is not your most expensive one. Important life lesson there. I had to fix up a motocross bike with lights for a Colorado trail ride. Did not have lithium available at the time. Wound up with an on off switch and a 5 minute run time. Had a cop ask to see my lights in Gunnison, started the motor flipped the switch on everything worked long enough to have him move on. (3 minutes). Never had to turn them on again ever.
I love watching your videos, your knowledge and enthusiasm is incredible not to mention contagious. Please keep up the good work, I look forward to the next episode. Best, D-Ray.
Looking Cool Bill... To optimise the beam pattern on the headlamp, experiment with the location of the bulb. The focal point of the inner shell should be optimised to the bulb for best results.
Nice job! That tail light reminds me of the ones we used to use on our old Early '70s SL hondas. We used to remove the stock ones because going off over the rear with the stock lights could be hazardous. 😀
The battery could break due to vibration, you could always use a thin layer of foam rubber around the battery to stop vibrations 🤔. Maybe it would work 🤔. Peace out ✌️
Winter draws on (lol) and I've been looking at doing a similar project on my currently, lightless Triton. I have room in the seat hump but with the very real danger of these batteries going kaput in spectacular fashion, I want it easily accessible, so I may drop it in behind the gearbox (pre unit). I have a 7" Lucas headlight with one of those modern LED light units. The rear lamps are the COB LED flexible strips. Trouble is, I'm looking at these batteries and seeing they have an output of 1-2 amps, max. I don't want to overload the battery, in case all the smoke escapes (lol). Advice appreciated
Are you going to be able to see anything with this headlamp ? See what sort of pattern it shows on a board. 1157 ? We call an offset pin stop/tail a 380.
