@@SalvagetoSavage: Thank you Brother for what you and your shop do. I can't stand watching some channels with so much unnecessary content. You guys get right to the task. I only wish your episodes were about an hour long at minimum. Very refreshing on RU-vid these days! Cheers from Guam USA👍
Some hard chrome would be nice on them. You'll have to wait and see though what we end up doing with them once the interior goes together for the final time!
You guys really do things differently. The highest quality builds. Everything super custom. The fab work you do is second to none! And even adding the sound dampening to finish it off and make it just that much better. Amazing work y'all!
This truck is turning out soooooo damn good! I can't believe how much you've gotten done so fast at your insane quality level! Can't wait to see what you guys do next!
They have stud welders so you can attach threaded studs to sheet metal without drilling it works like a body shop stud gun dent puller but alot more power to attach m4-m10 hardware.
It's so nice to see so much test fitting; after the slightest little 'tweek'. A lot of people don't seem to realize that the smallest change can throw fitment off so much. So great to see the S2S crew doing it right!
I think you should have switched the placement of your switches on the dash. Because in general GM would have the windshield wipers and the headlights on the left side of the steering wheel and the ignition on the right side of the steering wheel. But that's just me.... 👍👍👍
I think the easiest way for the door panels would be to use cowlboard and have the interior guy shape the design with foam prior to sewing and adhesive. But your way looks amazing also. That’s Just my suggestion
Definitely an awesome idea for next time! We like testing out different ideas and ways to do things to see if there's a way that works best for our future builds!
Some people have trucks to haul stuff for work and park it in their garage next to their trucks they only take out on weekends to turn some heads. We build these for our customers, and as long as they like em, we're happy too!
I like the idea of aluminum for the panels (no rusting issues) but the contour would have been better made using MDF. You can cut and shape and drill and do whatever you want before it is covered. It also adds a lot of stiffness to the panel and sound deadening for speakers. You can use 1/4" or maybe a couple of 1/8" pieces for more complex shapes. Foam spray can also be used for even bigger contours like if you wanted to blend the panel into a wrap around dash like modern cars. I would have used plastic for the backing because it is easier to work with and allows me to staple upholstery onto the back side (but you can't paint plastic very well.)
Regarding the hardware you welded to the back of the door metal, have you guys ever used Nelson stud welding? I'm sheet metal journeyman in San Diego & I used to work in a shop, we would routinely weld aluminum studs 1/4-20 studs to the back of aluminum panels (typically to be attached to the exterior of a building). The welding equipment is small enough to be placed on a rolling cart & uses 110 power. Obviously it isn't steel but that is both a positive & negative (they make make them for steel as well, im just not sure). Love the content.
Yes, I grew up in my father’s metal fabrication shop. We built stainless hoods and kitchen equipment. We had a steel stud “welder” I was thinking the same thing when I was doing those. Thanks for the thought brother
You guys are killing it with content. Keep up the good work! 👍 Here is my 2 cents on the door panels: 😉 I would keep the panels as one flat piece. You would not have to deal with the warping and it would not be as flimsy. Even add some strengthening groove beads going in towards the voids in the door, behind the bump outs. I would then make the bump outs separate. The bump outs could even be flat as well. The bump out and beveled edges effect, can be shaped with firm upholstery foam. You could even make the bump outs entire of wood (plywood or MDF). Router the edges to create the bevel. This would have an added effect of sound deadening when opening and closing the door (no metal wobble or rattle sound). Attach it the same way you did. Just epoxy the studs in place of welding them.
@@SalvagetoSavage BTW, since you are painting the metal panel. I would consider folding the edges. To give it a finished look. It would also give the added benefit of strengthening the perimeter of the panel. Resulting in a better fit when attaching it to the door (no edges lifting up from warping).
It helps a bit with the road noise. A lot of the stuff we use is not only sound deadener but insulation as well, which helps the AC keep the truck a bit cooler too!
Very nice high quality built but do you really need to use the ugly whiper and light switch? I think a new style chevrolet express light switch or digital switch panel would be nicer . But i’m not a pro 😬 the work you guys are doing is very inspiring
We wanted to go with something simple to start. The good thing about switches like these is that they almost always have the same mounting diameter, so it's not hard to switch them out after the fact!
Thank you!! We've used these rivnuts for similar shifter assemblies before and have had nothing but a positive experience. We definitely get what you're saying though with welding in some nuts to thread a bolt through.
Just an observation. But i think the window crank and door handle are gonna be tough getting on with padding and leather. On my 68 they are snug with just the metal panel and the grommet.
Got to say Mikey, that's a couple sad looking light and wiper switches for $50K or $100K + truck.... also Everyone is used to starting a car with their right hand. and wipers and light on the left... For the rest, she's looking good.
You can even pop the trim back in and use it to help line everything up. We just wanted the body lines to look correct throughout the entire truck, rather than relying on the trim to tell us where it would be.
Love S2S builds / Question from a long time viewer / What’s happening with the Tesla C10? - I must have lost track - Or has it been sold of disappeared? Love all your work / Just want to know more.. Thanks!
We still have the truck, it’s been a bit neglected with all the other work going on. But yes looking for a new home and possibly some upgrades once it’s sold. Hopefully we’ll be making a come back with it soon. Thanks for watching and following along
It's getting worked on! It's at the stage where things take a little longer to get done since it's a lot of finalizing and adjusting. So we want to make sure we have a good amount of work filmed to give y'all an episode!
Dude! I like your work and like the show/channel. But… I don’t think you should have swapped the push to start and the switches. The industry standard has them on the opposite side of the steering column. It might seem cool, but it will be confusing. All of the other cars will have them on left and right. Now you have them on right and left. It’s custom, I get it. Just my opinion. I was hoping you wouldn’t get the the holes. Pick a car in your head, close your eyes and have someone call out one of the three switch locations and see where you reach…
We get what you're saying, but it's not all that confusing once you're in it, on top of the fact that you're only hitting the button once when you start driving, and once when you're done. It's not the type of component that you need a split second reaction for. We appreciate the feedback though!
Cab is not sitting on the frame correctly or else the bed would have lined up to where it needed to without doing all that extra cutting and making mounts to make it fit.. i guaranteed the front sheet metal, core support and front bumper ain't going to line up either.
