Notice how actually cares about doing the job right. That’s the kind of guy you take your car to. I’ve gotten so fed up mechanics screwing me, from both independent shops and dealers, that I’ve decided to do all my own maintenance and it’s worked out so far. If I ever need anything big then I have no choice but to take it to a mechanic, but for now I’ll fix my own car.
This guy is a what is called a " shade tree mechanic". Very good one. Especially since he does do the fake click of torquing the nut or bolt. It is extremely important to torque certain nuts and bolts to correct ft/nm pressure. Like he said. Tighten that starter power nut wrong. You destroyed a 500$ starter. Note. Pro mechanics use mat and seat covers. Use cloth to protect car/paint while working. Use torque wrenches, and they fill in the car maintenance book. Then they go online and do car history. I have yet to see a book being used. We have books that give us work hours, proper specifications and approach. Like I give you an example. Had a German build Dodge. Heat vent wouldn't switch. Seams eazy fix. Just a simple electric motorized switch. 2 screws and replaced. Look in book. Replacing that vent switch is 16 hrs. Yeah.. because to get to said switch.... one must disassemble the ENTIRE dash and vent system. Yeah. Books are important for proper quotes, specifications, approach and proper repair. See. Unless you're repairing your own vehicle. When we repair your vehicle. Your and others lives are in our hands. Leaving us liable if we did our job wrong even in the slightest.
I'm lucky that my mechanic is a friend of my brother. I took my car to get my ac fixed and power steering looked at, I live in Phoenix and it's very important to have a working ac, lol. He called to let me know my brakes were in need of replacement coming up. I had a little delay on my side and I said I'd fix them myself. He told me since they had the car up, that if I bought the parts he would put them on for free. I probably hadn't seen him close to 20 years. Good guy, good mechanic.
Agreed, I'm avoiding shops as long as it's possible. Got way too many sub-par repairs in the past, even when i told the mechanics exactly what I want and how.
This owner is out $150-$300 for a starter instead of $10-$20. He should've just replaced the starter contacts, they're super cheap, and Toyota starters last for decades on average with just the occasional brushes + contacts.
@@user-ut9ln4vd5m mechanics don't rebuild starters anymore. They stopped doing rebuilds in the late 90s. Most are not trained or know how to rebuild a starter. The issue is this. To rebuild a starter. The labor cost + material almost = cost of rebuilt. Reason mechanics don't rebuild parts anymore, mainly is liability and warranty. Time = money. Last time I rebuilt something. This guy had a Chevy 4 banger car. Kid red lined it to death. Blew a piston. Snapped a rod. They only had 300$ to fix. So I went to junkyard. Got the parts. Ordered all new gaskets. Parts total. : 120$. Rebuild the engine. Ran like new. So a month later they came at me saying I didn't do my work correctly.. car was overheating. Nope..... after I paid to have the car towed to my shop.. turned out it only had a faulty radiator cap. Replaced cap. They reimbursed me the tow. But in the end I lost money on that job. I stopped rebuilding things for people that day. Unless they were willing to pay me what it really costs to rebuild. Oh.. Toyota starters... You're off by a 100$ or so. The rebuild kit cost. Sure. Can find for around 25$. But to rebuild your going to have to charge book time × shop rates. Poof.. $$$$ poof....
If this was me, I'd be dropping nuts & bolts everywhere! Also, Ray makes it look so easy with his no nonsense approach. Wish there were more mechanics out there like you.
I really hope these customers watch your videos to see what a dedicated mechanic you are. I’m a big believer in tipping people who go the extra step in doing their job well and you sir go the extra mile!
I just did a water pump on a 78 300D with air conditioner. Had to remove nine bolts of three different sizes to move the AC bracket enough to get at the pump flange bolts.
@@StephenNuchia I remember cars of the 70's being particularly awful about having 15 different size bolts on one bracket just to do a simple job. By the time the job was done, you had all your wrenches and sockets on the tool cart and nothing left in the tool box! It was really bad early 80's-ish because many of the cars had metric engines and SAE for everything else.
The '12 / '13 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7 is an awful one to deal with. You'd practically have to remove the right side exhaust manifold. I managed to work one out without doing it, but it took a couple of hours. Surprised that Toyota designed something like that with such poor access. Two sets of heat shields are involved as well for the r & r of the starter motor
@@halh865 I feel your pain. Some book time for starters is .5 hours..... after the engine is removed..... :) I have to do a water pump on my daughter's 20018 VW Bug. The pump is easy-peasy- just remove the belt and 3 bolts and it's off. But you can't get it out of the engine because there isn't enough room between the motor and the fender wall.... so you have to jack the motor...... Jeezeus.....
I was visiting family in NY some years ago and a neighbor came over to say Hello. She mentioned that her Mercedes was overheating and would I mind taking a look at it. I figured that checking coolant levels and looking for leaking hoses was in my level of expertise so I had a look-see. I noticed oil on the garage floor and very low coolant level. Surprised to see oil on the floor under a rather new car, I checked the dip stick and oil ran all the way up the stick. I looked under the filler cap and oil was full to the top. When I asked her about that she told that when your car overheats that it needs oil!!!!! She had just trashed that engine.
I'm sorry but a person like that should not be driving a car. I got my licence in the army and that included basic technical stuff like changing a tyre, checking and refilling liquids, prime a diesel-system and even how to be towed or tow another car. Basic skills; every driver should learn that.
@@tiggersdad6878 i know. And it gets worse... Modern cars can park themselves or even drive itself... We are creating a generation of drivers who have no clue what they are doing. No skills at all.
As a diy guy who learned a lot on his own(but mostly from his diy dad), I appreciate the detail that went into this video, is refreshing to see someone who doesn't expect everyone watching to know what they may not....
Well done! I really enjoy watching your attention to the small stuff. Cleaning the battery terminals was that little attention to detail that so many miss these days. You were not required to touch those to make the repair but you avoided another problem for the owner by taking 3 minutes to just make sure!
negative first my ass. if anybody knows anything about cars they know that you always disconnect the negative first and always reconnect it last to prevent arcs. please don’t let annoying people in the comments tell you how to do you job!! you’re the most honest and hard working mechanic i’ve ever seen. keep up the amazing content!!
I hope people realize the demonstration of arc welding that can happen if you unscrew a positive connection while a battery is still connected and the wrench happens to hit a ground. Very nice job and video, all starter Dx and replacement should go so well!
Love your videos only just discovered them but there are shot decently for what your doing and you appear to be a top mechanic always respectful of the customers car
Years ago I pulled battery out of my friends cuda and liquid leaked on my jeans did not realize it was sulfuric acid next morning I went to put my jeans on in the legs fell off I learned something there
I learned a long time ago to grab hold of the crank and spin it to make sure I don't have a locked up engine when a starter does that. I sucks to replace a starter just to find out the engine is locked up and now you have a starter that's been installed that they won't take back. I also always check the oil before I start a car. You would be surprised how many of them are 4 quarts low not even showing anything on the dipstick. I don't want it to lock up on my watch.
I am so jealous of watching you repair rust free cars and trucks. Am up in Canada putting up with all the salty roads in the winter and rusty car parts. keep up the good work down there. Enjoy watching...
"Negative first" at 1:07 is wrong, and this is why: the last connection to be made is the one that will spark, and if that connection is made right at the battery terminal there is the risk of explosion. The correct way is first connection to the positive battery terminal and the second connection to a substantial piece of engine metal some distance from the battery. If a spark occurs it will be at this second connection point away from the battery. Disconnect from engine metal first for the same reason.
Also, if you hook up the negative and then accidentally drop the positive you can go to a dead short. Do the positive first and if you drop the negative it doesn’t matter.
To be honest I remember hearing that at TAFE, but from experience both caused a small spark at the battery. The main reason that I would always connect (and tighten) positive first to a battery, is the same reason I decided to throw a spanner when installing a new battery. That is by connecting negative first the entire car body became negative, and so when young apprentice me was tightening the positive side, I accidentally made contact with the battery clamp with my spanner. Let's just say the electric shock that caused my muscles to throw the spanner was the best outcome that I could have hoped for.....
@@rwnagel I'm happy to be corrected, but if you drop the positive terminal on to any part of the car, even with the negative terminal connect nothing will happen (provided that the car isn't running). Because it is only the battery that gives the positive charge, and so the circuit is not complete. But I would only ever connect the negative terminal last, due to a bad experience I had.
I enjoy your videos. I learn a lot from them. I am not a mechanic but I do most of my own work. And the videos are easy to understand. Thanks keep them coming. Roy from Oklahoma.
I don't know why I've only just come across your channel but thankfully there's loads of videos to pass my time with. Enjoying them. Makes me want to get my hands dirty.
When jump starting a car, positive first then negative. This procedure is intended to remove any chance of spark, which may set off any gases that may be emitting from the battery? When removing jumper cables, remove negative first, then positive. 30 years as a mechanic / towtruck driver.
Yea, we were taught to either have a towel and wave it around over the battery or at the least blow across it to disperse any stagnant hydrogen particles.
This was more of a concern back before the batteries were sealed. But it is still good advice considering s malfunction in the seal could be what contributed to the need for a jump.
@@youtubeisawesome2487 true but they are not nominally vented to the atmosphere. The sealed units use a pressure relief valve that requires the pressure to build up over some level the manufacture determined was a safe limit. Hence why it isn't really a problem with them. The older batteries were always vented to the atmosphere and it was a larger or more pronounced concern.
Definitely could have used one of those electric ratchets for the 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse starter I changed last week. The starter is between the block and the exhaust manifold and there are coolant and transmission fluid lines in the way making it a difficult job even with a good ratchet.
I like your very diversified choice of tool brands. You’re not married to to a particular brand. Lends you more credibility. But you’re not afraid to tout a particular tool. Good honest endorsement.
FYI: when you are dealing with your battery always (always) disconnect the negative (black) cable first and the positive (red) cable last. When installing a battery always install the positive cable first then the negative cable last. That way if you happen to touch the loose cable to something metal you’re not going to get sparks or potentially fry some electrical components
This also applies to that jumper wire. I like to (when possible) hook the wire to the working end first to avoid the wire slipping and grounding. On starters, I usually just grab my bump switch.
@@pkdude5334 Here's the clown that always turns up with that stupid attitude. or - a better idea - do the damn procedure by the book. Because its negligent to do otherwise, and supposedly "negligence" is so important to you.
Reminds me of the time I was installing coated Edlebrock Tri-y headers on my 89 IROC-Z28. Got the right side mounted, rolled to my left to admire how awesome it looked, and there was the starter. Unbolt headers, start over. Fair winds and following seas to all.
We have all done such things. lol I had a Jeep once with a split harmonic balancer. I tore into it, pulling the fan belt tensioner etc. unboxed the new one…compared the two and then slapped it together! When it was all done started the engine for inspection and the balancer was flopping all over the place. I looked over and the brand new one was sitting on its box right there on my cart just staring at me! Right then and there I decided that “I love my job so much, I do it twice” in the most embarrassing and sarcastic tone! 😁
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Hi, I am replying to your comment here in hopes it send you a notification. I just wanted to bring up the reason why I Never connect the negative first. If you connect the Negative first then any slight touch of the Positive cable to ground anywhere will complete the circuit with lots of current to spark or do other damage. However if you don't have the Negative connected, the positive can touch anything and not cause any problems. After the Positive is connected, the Negative cable can touch almost anything but the Positive and not cause any issues. Great work in the videos by the way !
I had one once when I worked for Peckerboys back in 2002 where the customer towed their car in because it wouldn't start after they bough a new battery trying to fix their own car. When I popped the hood to inspect it I found a brand new battery hooked up with the red and black caps still on the battery inside the cable clamps. Simple fix - no charge to fix stupidity, they suffered enough with the tow bill.
I didn't get the comment about wheel nuts. I'd much rather deal with a cross threaded wheel nut/stud than a damaged bell housing. That would be exactly OUCH$ and OUCH¢.
i would have to be more emphatic... cross-threaded bolts are Very VERY BAD!!!!! They cost a lot of my customers hundreds of $$$ more than if they had just left them alone and brought it to me in the first place.... sigh.
it is so nice to be able to access “ ware “ item parts. with not having to remove multiple items to remove the bad part. nice video, you are a great troubleshooter, that skill is worth it’s weight in gold!
I'm so glad to say that I have mechanics that are as good as you my friend they never try to sell me on unnecessary work or screw me over they are very good to me and always call and check with me on everything they're doing you guys are all true heroes in the field of auto repair and we appreciate you for that!
Never hook the negative first . Positive 1st negative 2nd. Unless your jump box has a power off switch and it's in the off position., hooking the negative first then the positive can result in many fried electronics in newer automobiles
I had my own computer repair business back in the late 80's until late 00's. I use to have the same problem with clients not being honest when I asked them: 1: Did you install any software? 2: DId you update anything? 3: Have you tired to fix it? 4: How long has it been playing up? 99.9% of the time the client/owner said "NO" to the 1st 3 questions and the 4th "today or last night" If they had only told me that they tried to install an updated video or soundcard driver, update version of direct X, installed a game, played with the BIOS and the list goes on and on it would have been roughly a 10 minute fix. But instead it took an hour to track down the problem. It boils down to they hit it with something and didn't say anything.
I have a Tacoma. I had to change the starter in it once. Only way was to remove the intake manifold with all it's hoses and sensors. Big job to say the least.
On my wrx just have to remove the top mount intercooler. Starter is right there on back of transmission/block. Easy is when you can get to it from the top.
On my pickup once, the solenoid would click, but the starter motor would not turn. In the end, I discovered that one side of the solenoid contact that the plunger bumps into had worn thin faster than the other side, so the plunger could no longer touch both sides. I removed the copper contact, and soldered a layer of copper sheet under the contact, and re-assembled. The starter worked for the rest of the truck's life. (I realize shops can't spend that kind of time disassembling solenoids and make any cash, but it worked for me on my own time)
Jumper to the starter is a good trick to know. I rescued my daughter when her ignition switch broke. She could switch it to on, but couldn't turn it to start. So she switched it to on and I jumpered the starter motor and got her started. The rest of the repair happened in the driveway instead of the McDonald's parking lot. It's unnerving to be shoulder deep in an engine bay when the engine is cranking up though. Watch out for those belts!
I recently had to do the Leatherman tool-across-the-solenoid-terminals trick to get a Chevy 2500 Diesel Pickup started. It allowed it to be driven instead of towed to the shop = saved hundreds of $$$. I'm not recommending this. Lots of current to crank a big diesel like that. Not to mention trusting that it stays in park so that it doesn't run over you once it starts.
@@bobbyhempel1513 and put pits all over the solenoid threads so they freeze up when you try to take the nuts off and twist the terminal out. But, I've arced my fair share of screwdrivers back in the day. It's really better if you've got a couple of wires with alligator clips and then arc the wires to bypass the solenoid but ya gotta do what ya do when you're trying to get groceries home before the ice cream melts.
I had an 86 dodge caravan that would not start after a hard rain when followed by a quick freeze. Brought to dealer 3 times under warranty and still had the problem. So I installed a "hot wire" switch (marine grade) under the dash and told my wife to use it whenever the car would not start. She used that switch 1-2 times every Winter for the next 11 years....LOL
you can usually get the same effect by jumping it at the Starter Relay, usually under the main underhood fuse box, which will work, unless the wire from the relay to the solenoid is bad (found that one time on a Dodge Charger)
Even for the DIYers, seeing 'the same process I would do' is interesting, by you being the personality. Nice job. You are entertaining. This gives you good testimony, we come for you, for we are fans. Car stuff, also nice to have, thanks. Did you wipe off the prints that were not yours? I bet you did.
Now if only my 95 Buick was that easy to access. lol I get a chuckle that the post and terminal cleaner haven't changed since they came out. Aside from the plastic.
It might be nice to use a voltmeter while cranking the starter. I’ve been tricked into replacing a starter before when the ground wire was the culprit. It showed 12v at the starter until you cranked and the voltage would drop. always keep your parts cannon clean and ready
Had a crank no start one time. Customer said they were driving down road & shutoff & they towed it to me. After digging in & seeing data that didn't make since with crank sensor & balancer, I figured out it had been changed by a crackhead mech before brought to me. As that was the wrong used balancer & never could run from the installed setup. I fixed it & had to press them for the truth of what really happened.
Its almost like someone thought about having to replace the starter at some point in the vehicles life. Not looking forward to the starter on my Caliber 1.8L
Burnt contacts on the starter, just had that on a skid steer. And surprised you don’t have a power probe just to hit that starter solenoid wire, it’s great for this exact job.
He should've just replaced the starter contacts, they're super cheap like $10-$20 instead of $150-$300 for a non-Toyota starter. Toyota/ND ones last for decades on average with just the occasional brushes + contacts.
Nice! That was the easiest starter job lol. Had to do one on my back in the rain at 5 am for someone before. The old terminal rusted solid and i had a bitch of a time gettin it apart after the housing cracked apart.
@@johnthomas5176 not entirely true. I’m an ASE certified mechanic in several areas. I love watching these because he’s good and it’s kinda entertaining. He’s funny as hell. So don’t assume the “experts” aren’t watching for probably the same reason you are.
@@Bonewalker-2000 Even the best mechanics pick up things from other people. I started disconnecting both terminal when my 10 year old son ask why I only did one when I was going to clean both in the end. Tools in hand to do couldn't come up with a reason why not. LOL
thank you for the video bro! i just found your channel now trying to watch every one of them i'm learning a lot, i'm working at nissan dealership here in New Zealand as apprentice
In the old days I used to pull the plastic cap off the solenoid is a copper washer in there I would either clean it up or flip it and I got quite a few extra miles out of a starter motor but because of the shop policy they will replace parts this way they can guarantee and warranty so I understand also Ray I sneakiness when you access nuts and bolts you very good at that I admire
I have to say, this is the first time I've seen where the pinion for the starter is OUTSIDE the nose cone. Admittedly, I work on cars that are from the 1980s usually but it's definitely new for me to see such a thing.
Brother, as always both informative and entertaining. I m not in the industry, but it is always nice to know what I, as a customer, should and should not do to help make the process go as efficiently as possible. Thank you!
Although the diagnosis was correct in this case, and would have been so 99% of the time, I would have wanted to confirm it had a good power supply by bypassing the main cables with jumper cables direct from the battery to the solenoid terminal and earth (ground) on the engine before condemning the starter (getting a voltage reading from the terminal at zero load is no guarantee that the circuit is capable of carrying 100A + to operate the starter).
@m ph yes a volt drop would also be much faster and eliminate the possibility of poor connections trying to jump battery to the starter post with jumper cables. Also, a power probe could've replaced the jumper ray did from battery to b+ terminal and also done the volt drop test very quickly.
The cables would have to be pretty bad for it to not crank at least a little bit. I've seen v8s start on a handful of strands of rotten wire. There is a time and place for a proper diagnosis but that also eats into your profits. This was a clearly dead starter, especially with the thing running on after the key (button) was let go. Contacts welded themselves together and were ruined in the process. Hooking cables to it might get the motor to spin but that isn't really going to matter if the power can't get to the motor from the solenoid.
@@mph5896 That is assuming there is power getting to the motor and the motor is bad. If the contacts in the solenoid are toast, there won't be a major voltage drop, but the starter is still destined for mexico.
@@--_DJ_-- I wasn't suggesting bypassing the solenoid, just the supply to the solenoid and ground, as confirmation it was not caused by high resistance on the circuit from the battery
That starter was too easy. Last one I replaced was on an ‘09 Civic 1.8L. It’s underneath the motor. What a pain!!! Nice work though. I would have checked for a “wiggly” ‘-‘ cable after tightening and then applied some anti-corrosion substance on both terminals. Keep up the good work and enjoy those easy ones when you can! 👍🏻
I had that annoying “Will it start today?” roulette wheel due to a duff starter motor and thought it was the battery because using a jump box worked a lot of the time. Also turning the radio of worked too… was bizarre. But it got worse and worse until the dealer swapped out the starter and it fixed it. The only thing worse than an intermittent fault is an intermittent fault that only kicks in when you are late for an appointment… and I though i was going to miss my Covid jab… Scary stuff for sure.
As a fellow tech, one should always do the code scan before disconnecting the battery. Once the battery is unplugged, you loose most of your data. Also, when you see "pictures" on the dash, they are almost always there to block one of those annoying warning lamps. I always set then aside first thing.
You don't lose any data by unhooking the battery!!! Notice how he didn't reply to your comment??? You know why??? Because it wasn't worth his time to argue with you an telling you that you are WRONG!!!
@@nickschmitz7044 old 80's and 90's cars actually did lose the data when you disconnected the battery; in fact, that was the factory method to clear codes on many years and models of computer modules; it wasn't until the late 90's and up that computers got fully equipped with nonV memory that would retain codes with no power on the B+ inputs.... so a guy with experience with 'older' cars would remember that.... but in all fairness, newer cars do retain all memory codes even if battery power is lost, and can only be cleared by use of a compatible scanner... it's all a matter of Application, really
He says looking at battery terminals that are dirty, "while I'm here I may as well clean them," that's a professional. I retired last year doing electrical/mechanical in an industry that is imploding now, and because I was alone, I always went that extra step because I would be the one who would suffer if I just repaired the obvious. Glad to see this guy has a work ethic that seems so rare now a days.
Different subject. A word of advice. Never use aftermarket water pumps on Toyota. The impeller is a little different, aftermarket will effect the heater when idling in the winter.
Praying for ya brothaman...I've been keeping up with the vids of the hurricane you've been posting I know your place is getting hammered but please stay safe and us Ohioans are sending prayers your way!!
We both know that even if they had told you the starter was bad you would have still proceeded to diagnose the bad starter! Because you are an amazing mechanic!
really? I was actually taught to give the starter a few good whacks with a hammer. sometimes it can free up the solenoid, get a few more weeks out of it.
@@lorenzo42p This is fine on a starter that uses electromagnetic field coils around the armature, but the starter in the video has permanent magnets around its armature. The permanent magnets can shatter from impact if you bang on this type of starter.
Not sure who told you to connect the negative first, but I've been at this for 35 years and you ALWAYS hook the negative lead up last. Connecting the ground first can cause a surge in the system when you connect the positive cable, and cause damage to sensitive electronic parts. ;)
I have never seen Ray use a jump box that worked, but once he used two, with twice the elections and it was magic. When the customer said the car wouldn't turn off that was probably a miscommunication that the solenoid didn't disengage after the vehicle started. This is common with a failing solenoid.
Ray @6:09 you said "slip that around the backside". You did not follow that with a GIGGITY. You sir now owe all your loyal fans and viewers 1 GIGGITY GIGGITY GOO.
@7:57 you said "stick it in there" again no GIGGITY. We're gonna need proof that this is really the Rainman Ray and not some imposter. Say click when tightening a bolt so we know you're ok.
@@ralfie8801 correct, he is a jamoke, I was rushing and I meant to say his brain is Googats. I guess we all watch the same channels which is addictive.
Nice job Ray. It is REFRESHING to see a guy that not only changes out the bad starter, but also takes the time to clean both battery terminals before attempting to start the motor, eliminating even small voltage drops that can kill starter and alternator and battery life and performance... little things like that separate the Dedicated Technicians from the 'flip it and go to the next one' dime a dozen low level mechanics you hear about every day.... thanks for the excellent videos! Cheers
Hell yes. Unless it's the 1uz-fe V8 engine by Toyota. That starter is under the intake manifold in the valley! I work on alot of German cars. There are starter motors I've done in recent history that have taken an entire work day to swap. Some Mercedes are particularly bad. Cheers from Jackson Mississippi!
@@heyitschinoable it's a great dependable motor....no arguing that. They could have made the starter a little easier to get too tho cause they do frequently fail once they get some age to them. 4.0 Lexus V8s have the starter in the valley as well but they tend to last a bit longer....from what I've seen at least.
And you’ll be working on these 06-11 models all the time. That 2.4 is a dog and has bad rings, pistons and drinks oil. My 08 only had 130k on it when I finally got rid of it and I replaced the visors multiple times (why does Toyota make such awful visors, and CD players anyway?), the alternator, the throttle body, the clutch slave cylinder, the TPMS sensors (this car needs it too), the alternator, the rear door release cable, took apart the entire headliner to tighten up the loose, rattle trap sunroof, the floor mat retaining hooks and the catalyst. I’ve owned a lot of bad cars in my day, but these years of Camry have more problems than any year of Cavalier or Taurus.
As a humble amateur, I'm always looking for a better way to quickly screen for voltage drop on the two sides of the circuit without breaking out a scope or wasting a huge amount of time. Here you got to the most likely diagnosis quickly and efficiently, without requiring an assistant, but the main B+ line was assumed to be free of line resistance. You proved that line was good after installing the new starter, which would be a conundrum if it had failed. It's not easy to thoroughly test a wire that is supposed to carry 150+Amps, since even a few ohms of resistance anywhere in that B+ line or the ground could create the same pattern as seen here. If the solenoid doesn't close, there's no load on the wire, so in that case you'll always see 12V on the B+post even if there's a problem. And if it does close, resistance upstream could prevent the starter from moving, making it look like the solenoid didn't close, unless you monitor voltage there. This week Eric, from SouthMainAuto, did a starter video in a Pontiac Torrent, using a grounded incandescent test light as a quick and dirty drop test. Yup, a test light doesn't load it enough to be certain that wire is fine, but overall it's much more sensitive. He even took a few seconds to test the engine ground strap by tapping the grounded test light on the starter frame while Vanessa turned the key. He was also able to test that third pole between the pull-in coil and the motor windings. It took him less than a couple of minutes, and he used his lovely assistant to turn the key. Not all starters have access, and most of us do not have a beautiful assistant. But my vote goes for the high amp test light with an assistant turning the key as the best screening technique.
Before condemning a starter, try re-torquing one of the mounting bolts. Just ONE so you disturb it least as possible. Rare but I've seen it be just a bad ground to the bell housing. And it's why I always apply some dielectric to the bolt threads after. Of course a current waveform would be needed to make a definitive call on an intermittent fault.
Fortune favours the brave. I guess doing this for a living you just know, but I'd sure as hell be testing the starter as soon as it's fitted before installing the air box 😂
Bare hands and a gold ring when investigating the wiring, is a potentially dangerous situation for you while the battery is connected. If your ring touches a live terminal and in this case the body of the starter motor the ring could weld itself in place and seriously burn your hand. A tip, put duct tape over your ring when working on car wiring. But if you are wearing gloves then the problem and risk is minimised. For the battery terminal terminal cleaning, put grease on the terminal and connector after fitting to reduce oxidisation / corrosion. A great video, keep up the good work educating the DIY enthusiasts.
1st question : why didn't you cleaned battery terminals ( both ) before installing a new starter ? And then try to start it ?? 2nd question why didn't you showed us what voltage you were getting at starter post after cleaning battery terminals ? Dude you know what I'm talking about very well
Dad had a Chrysler K car that got sketchy about cranking. We pulled the Asian starter motor to look inside it and found the major contacts ( that connect when the solenoid makes its full travel) were worn badly. One much more than other. A local starter rebuild supply house had contacts available. Cheap easy fix.
He also said to drill drain holes in the bottom of headlights to fix leaking headlights before they start leaking. Kilmer and his cult like boomer followers are among the biggest D bag idiots on RU-vid.
Modern cars make me really glad to have my old truck back. I can barely change the headlights on my Volvo but that old Chevy? It's all so simple on that truck. Throttle gets stuck wide open? Pinch the hook on the throttle spring. Shifting rough, especially from 1st to 2nd? "Once upon a time there was a little vacuum hose that couldn't. It touched my exhaust pipe and died. The end." Nip-tuck-wire-it-up. Shifting perfect now. Of course I'm going to replace it later. The reason it touched the exhaust pipe is that the original was shortened by a split end a million times. When they swapped my engine, I think the mechanics didn't realize that it was originally set up to run OUTSIDE the frame held in place by a clip, because what was left of it was far too short for that, so they replaced the length they found instead of the correct length. This placed it INSIDE the frame right up on the header pipes. Curtains.
I wonder: Why is it that none of the mechanics online seem to have a Remote Starter Switch? I saved money by building my own using a starter push button. It was a great diagnostic tool!
somehow I've got by all these years without one. I can see how it could be very useful, and easy to make. a single piece of wire with gator clips on each end, put a push button switch in the middle. at first when I read your comment, I thought you meant an aftermarket remote start. I would absolutely never put one of those things on a car. I've seen the butcher job of one of those installed on a car. first thing I did was remove it.
I had the fortune of having that button from 2004 until earlier this year. I had a 2004 and later 2014 Prius. Trade the Prius in on a Tesla Model 3 earlier this year, so now there is no such thing as "start" for me anymore. Well actually it *kinda* starts, but it often happens before I even get in the car and sounds like "whirrrrrrr...clunk".
