What a delight to watch a very articulate and knowledgeable mechanic sharing how to fix a faulty window regulator with all the pitfalls and recoveries. Excellent video and audio work. Thanks very much. Your stuff is a real confidence builder.
Good video. I like the extra "clean up" step. I know my dad was upset when, after fixing an oil leak, the mech left greasy finger prints all over the chrome covers. The shop forman had the mech come out and polish it up. 30 years later dad still remembered that.
ALL ABOUT THE DETAIL. LITTLE THINGS MATTER YOU CAN CHANGE THEIR ENGINE AND FERN LIKE A KITTEN LEAVE FINGERPRINTS ON THE FENDER. YOU FAILED. 🤔🤗🙃👍🙏. I'VE NEVER SEEN OUR RAY FORGET DETAIL THOUGH. I DO BELIEVE I'VE SEEN CLEAN BATTERY CABLES EVEN WHEN IT WASN'T ON THE WORKSHEET GOOD MAN. WISH YOU WAS OUT HERE IN CALIFORNIA. 🇺🇲😁👍♥️
🤣🤣🤣 I had a mechanic ride with me for some warranty work because he said he couldn't recreate the pinging sound coming from the engine. He kept saying I don't hear anything. I knew I wasn't crazy.. found out later on someone put the wrong heat range spark plugs in. Plugs was way too hot and they was causing pre ignition
Took my CRV in for an issue with the radio/info display that the dealership said they couldn’t reproduce. I took several videos of the issue that I tried to show the service writer. The service writer, at first, refused to look at the videos. After he did look at them, I argued with him until he noted the issue on my record. After the warranty expired, there’s suddenly a software fix that they wanted to charge me for. I asked for Honda’s district manager phone number at which time they “fixed” it for free.
I had my two weeks old sedan Accord rear shelf rattle from the speakers. Service bulletin said remove shelf add mouse skin tape and repeat as necessary to stop rattle. They didn’t repeat as necessary and pretended they didn’t hear the rattle. Ended up fixing it myself :(
@@kskoog2019 - I am in Australia, and my Mazda 3 had an issue where all the saved station channels in the radio would delete themselves. This was random, with no apparent cause. Dealership denied warranty claims because they couldn't replicate the issue. They suggested that the starting battery might need replacing, although they didn't change it despite being under warranty as well. There is no logic in that anyway, since the battery worked perfectly and radio stores all the stations even if unplugged. After numerous months of aggravation, I searched and found a Service Bulletin from Mazda USA that this was a known issue and the way to rectify it under warranty. When I showed that service bulletin to the Mazda Dealership, they stated it was NOT a fault that was recognised by Mazda Australia. I assume that means that the dealership couldn't claim the costs of repair back against the factory. My radio still has the fault, 10 years later. It also has serious other issues that were denied as warranty repairs by the dealership. I will never buy a Mazda again, so they certainly won that battle.
Door mechanisms have been a pain in the behind as far back as I can remember, and I'm 71! And people wonder why labor costs are so expensive, takes a long time to replace even the simplest part.
would not cost that much to put the motor and the mechanism on a plate thats tabbed in at the top and screwed in at the bottom....ffs its easy but nooooo they like making guys sweat when fixing their shit.
I do autobody this shouldn't take more the 20 30 mins tops. if you need thing like this done don't go to an auto shop go to an autobody shop and the hourly rate is cheaper too
Customer States: 'I have a rattle inside my driver's door since you replaced my window regulator'? Looks like a lot of other people noticed Ray didn't install one of the lower rail bolts, or the black clip that retains the lower part of the cable to the inner door panel. Others also noticed the 3rd bolt he used for the motor, was probably the missing lower rail bolt, which he used for the motor, when he couldn't find the 3rd motor bolt he dropped inside the door during disassembly🤣👍🇦🇺
I've done so many regulators in my life. One shop I worked in none of the other guys would do regulators. I did ALL of them! Some were easy, some a real pain. Thanks for the reminder of the past! Just remember to put ALL the bolts back in! Should not have any open bolt holes. I noticed one before you installed the door liner.
A lot of Fords and Lincolns mount the widow regulators with rivets, which must be drilled out. Further, the replacements also mount with [large] rivets, which can be difficult to set.
Automotive manufacturers call that sticky stuff 'strip caulk', which is designed to never dry so you don't destroy the vapor barrier when removing. It's expensive, sold in big boxes. I found butyl tape to be almost identical, used everywhere in the marine industry.
I've used butyl tape for for the same application. It does work well. Oh, and I've also used really thick (mil) plastic sheeting to "recreate" the vapor barriers, if they get damaged. Just cut to size.
I was going to comment the same thing. Butyl rubber is also used in long strips to weatherproof metal/aluminum roofing materials. Its sunlight and water resistant and almost stays tacky forever. I've used it behind my license plate to prevent it from rattling from my sound system. I found automotive wax and grease remover does the best to wipe it off without damaging the paintjob. My dad was a automotive painter so I ask him all the good questions lol
this is a great channel i spend hours just watching 1 repair after the other. gives me a better knowledge base for all the components and how they interact with each other better :)
I enjoy your style of just doing the job and recording the fun while it happens while staying upbeat. I'm amazed I don't hear any profanities in the heat!
"Got that 3.7 liter V-6. That grinding noise is normal." BLAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA....{GASP, CHOKE}.....HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH.....STOP!...YOU'RE KILLING ME.
I noticed that as well but was really surprised that he didn't notice it upon re-installation, especially after using the 'wrong' hole. I also wondered why he didn't pre-install the screws part way so that he could just lift the unit inside and slide it right into those 'keyhole' slots and then tighten. Same thing for the motor screws.
I mentioned that to just a minute before you did. I would guess it is in the door. He dropped the last one out of the motor inside the door when he removed it. Check out at 7:30-7:36
@@everseeker ; There were new ones in the new part , they just snap over the metal bullets on the regulator . But he did forget the second bolt on the bottom of the track . If Jeep put two bolts there it probably needs three and he sent it out with one . That's how we get our cars back with a new rattle in it when we send it out for repairs .
I was going to say that same thing haha, after I figured out how to spell, but you took care of it for me 😁 I'LL Definitely be adding that one to my vernacular list of interesting words
@@immortalsofar5314 As a newish jeep owner I have to say the tighter turning takes some effort to get used to. but U turns sure are easy compared to the sedan I used to own.
@@gsettlemyre yes sir...I own a REAL jeep 🇺🇸 a 1965 C-104 (commando)..I bought it from a former customer in (1990) who couldn't drive anymore due to his eyesight..It's my daily driver here in Tucson, Az. I've had offers of $15,000 & more but I won't sell it..I get two thumbs up 👍👍when I'm at a traffic light
One minor problem with your narrative, this is a 2005 Jeep, and FIAT didn't come onto the scene until 2009. That regulator system is either Bosch or a copy of a typical Bosch setup, which makes sense since this Jeep model would have been developed when Mercedes and Chrysler were hooked up from1998 to 2007.
When your scanner freezes up over and over. That is usually an early indicator to a pcm failure. That is that the memory in the pcm is damaged and it Is utilizing every ram of memory to run the vehicle and can not spare a ram for operating other functions. It would be nice if our scan tools would test ram failure. Would save on lots of searching some times.
I think you forgot a bolt on the left side of that regulator bracket. At 25 minutes, it shows the right side bolt in, but the left is not there just before you stuck the plastic sheet on. Just an observation. I love the channel and content. It's excellent!
@@davidsutch7929 It happens to best of us and he's got a million eyes looking over his shoulder giving him more hindsight than I could ever imagine. 😅👍Good catch!
The Ford EVR (little black plastic gizmo) is designed to work only in the vertical position. Turning it on it's side and tapping it will definitely cause it to temporarily leak. The sealing comes from a light spring and a stainless steel disk. Most of these were made in Chatham, Ontario and I was the QC engineer on the product line in the past.
Yes I cringed at that test also. I have worked on these Jeep Liberty's more than i want to admit and the evap leak is common and was always a cracked hose by the fuel tank.
You are a very wonderful mechanic I have never seen one like you before, Some mechanics here in Vermont are hardcore serious 100% of the time and they are no fun to be around
Reg: Wedging the Glass. I believe you want to slide your wedge in from beneath the glass, thin end first, (INSIDE that inner panel). As the glass seeks out "GRAVITY", it will snug itself up, as it comes in contact with the meatier thickness of the wedge. Love your videos! Especially now that I signed up for Premium COMMERCIAL FREE RU-vid! I think the time that I will now save, shall definitely justify the $11.99/month! Heck, the first 3 months are even FREE!
Great video as always but I think that you should have clipped the tail of the window cable mechanism into the door panel using a tiny push through clip attached to the tail, as per the original one. Would prevent it flapping around in the door and possibly making a noise.
Watching you painstakingly take that door apart and remove/replace the window regulator makes me remember why I don't do work myself anymore. I have no patience. Mechanics have the patience of saints and engineering know-how that is more like witchcraft. Thank you to ALL good mechanics that do the work you do. Awesome to watch.
I always kept a clear roll of heavyweight plastic sheeting in my shop, and a jug of Permatex High-tack. When those plastic door liners self destructed, or worse yet, were made from a heavy craft-paper that simply disintegrated upon being looked at, I'd simply make a new one using the sheeting, and glue it down with the High-Tack! Any size, any shape, worked beautifully every single time!
Fingerprints? I read this in an old Popular Mechanics Magazine joke -- Woman to Service Manager: What do your mechanics clean their hands with when they run out of steering wheels. Great stuff. Glad I found your channel.
"someone liked them more than I did" aka some scumbag stole them, I lost a pair of extra tall axle stands on Sunday night thanks to a scumbag stealing them from my yard, they knocked the axle that was on them onto the floor (partially rebuilt 1970's landrover axle) and made off with £120 axle stands damaging the fresh paint on the axle.
Well, it's pretty dumb to leave your valuable items where they are accessible to thieves. If you cannot lock it up, at least cover things with a tarpaulin or something - they won't steal what they cannot see.
I just found your channel and I watch it often I am an auto body technician with 20 years experience. I enjoy watching you work. You forgot the bolt in the left bottom corner of the window track but but it's not like I've never done it.
I've used the blue low adhesion masking tape to hold the window up before. Comes off easy and leaves the paint alone with no residue either, but to each their own.
I just use a rubber jaw slide clamp. Faster than tape and holds better although I have used tape before too. I found the clamp is better as it is easier to adjust the height for when I am attaching the regulator to the glass. If I need to move it up or down an inch or so, it just takes a second to release and reset the clamp. To each his own though, whatever works for you.
@@OverlandOne I have those but haven't tried them. Seems like more chance to slip and more point pressure on a small area of glass. I just use a few strips of tape and you can even line it up to where the bolt holes are convenient.
I was going to say that also, but i have also used a suction cup. the wedge thing is not good ( as noted). AND if the window is down before the regulator can be replaced, use duc(k)t tape to hold up the glass to keep the car dry.
@@henrywelling2839 , yeah I saw that, you're probably right, it's still bouncing around driving the owner crazy trying figure what's making that noise? Lol.
My ASE cert was up in 96 had to give it up because of back problems just want to let you know I enjoy watching you work. I miss the days of yore lol. keep up the good work. I did still work on dirt late models and stocks till 2 years ago back says no more foe me .
He never stuck the little pins in for the glass either. So either he did it off camera or the customer will be back after they hit a bump and the glass falls into the door
@@TwistedFire85 the clips that hold the window pins to the regulator came already installed on the new regulator. You could hear the pins snap in place. The bolt I’m not sure if he recovered that from the bottom of the door and put back in. I didn’t see him do that.
Yeah, the new regulator comes with the clips already installed and you just clip in the window like he did and it's connected. I noticed he did forget to put in the second screw on the bottom braket back in but might of put it in when he was putting the white plastic vapor barrier back on I hope, there was an edit cut and was trying to see if he put the bolt 🔩 in but the camera was to high to see 👀
Once again, you like your job you do it twice. Remember the first time was practice. It does not count!?? Or does it? Nice job. I am glad to see that the evap issue was an easy fix. Mom's car had the evap code and it needed a new gas tank and filler tube due to rust holes.
Glad you as a professional had as much trouble with the regulator as I did as an amateur. Tip to hold the glass - 6" of duct tape over the top (assuming the window is clean, so it doesn't pull straight off the glass).
Andy Owens -Your idea of a professional should not be influenced by the fact of owning tools and working at automotive shops! Masking tape is better, won’t leave sticky residue like duct tape.
@13:05 Sometimes one of those quick release suction cups such as those marketed as dent pullers, or the more robust "industrial" versions used to move glass plate make life more gooder. It works just as well as vice grips on tailgate lift cylinders that ran out of "lift gas" and only the "fall on your head when you hit the fabricobbled 'prop stick' gas" remains within the "unit." Ahhh the joys of the automotive window glass guillotine game. Remember - before beginning any automotive repair job, count your fingers and write that number down on an index card. When the job is finished, go wash yer hands, then re-count the fingers. You should always finish with the same nunber you started with. Seven . . . AND A HALF. Any less and you should check yer work area for missing parys before heading to that medical service Tim the Toolman Taylor gets his bits repaired at. 🖐💪🦻🦵👃👄🧠🦷 Just about any part that one can sever or severely damage - they can USUALLY find a way to sew, glue, screws or staple it back on. ;)
What can I say about Ray. He’s supposed to be a mechanic. Where most mechanics are mechanically inclined. So here’s what I see. At 7:11 he removes two bolts from the bottom of the track assembly. At 7:35 he loses a bolt from the motor assembly. Near the end while reassembling he put one bolt in the wrong position of the track, corrects himself but for the life of me, I never see that second bolt go back in. Hmmmmmm. I wonder! Then the test on the purge valve. Let me beat on it with the hammer end of a large screwdriver and lets see if it leaks a little. This will prove that by driving said car around jogging this unit can produce a slight leak. Yea, if they are hitting giant potholes and running into brick walls. I can’t take this guy seriously as to how to perform certain tasks or learn anything except how not to do things. Sharp edges - wear gloves. Some other mechanic stole my tool, use masking tape to hold it up. That glass comes crashing down and hurts your hand and breaks. That’s on you. Constructive criticism.
People do not understand every bolt is there for a reason, He is haphazardly taking it all apart, they are slotted by the way, dropping bolt in door panel, window glass keeps sliding down, so unprofessional and to see all these likes and praises, just shows the ignorance of the profession in general.
Why I work on my own vehicles. Man literally rips things apart without knowing the style clips and fasteners and wire harnesses. A simple guide can show you everything you need to know without all the dumb guesswork on someone else's vehicle. It's appalling.
Window regulators are a pain in the a**. I did one on my '99 Camry last year and it was not as bad as I thought but, it was still not easy. One thing I figured out was, since I did it with the door wide open, I used a soft jawed harbor Freight clamp on the lock side of the door clamped to the glass to firmly hold it in place. It has been working well since replacement except I did not notice that the polarity on the new motor was reversed from the OEM and now down is up and up is down for that window. I just have not felt motivated to take it all apart to reverse the 2 wires to fix this as it works fine now and I don't really care which way I have to move the switch, ha ha.
You my brother have made these videos enjoyable to watch. My son that is learning the trade from me has found your videos very educational. Keep up the great work. I also have found the safety locks a pain in the butt LOL. AND REMEMBER HAVE A GREAT DAY.
I hate replacing window regulators!!! Everything is sharp as heck and no room to work!! I always feel like if I haven't cut myself while replacing one I must have done something wrong. Lol. Great video through!!
That window door setup is easy to work on compared to other vehicles, also it would be an idea for carmakers to make inner doors that are able to be unscrewed and taken off in order to repair things a lot easier.
It's definitely on the list of contributors for that DTC on my '03 4.7 Dakota, but can be reported as a large leak depending on the condition of the cap seal and fill tube mating surface.
A small leak is very small under .010 inch hole. Sand in the seal of a gas cap can cause it. It can take 2 weeks for that code to come back on a Jeep. The proper diag is to first hook it up to a smoke machine and do an initial leak test. if it has a leak then you need to find the leak with smoke or other ways. If it has no leak then you look for issues like a poorly seating purge valve. Ive never tried wacking on a purge solenoid to see if it leaks I wonder if it would do that even if its good if you wack it hard enough to shake the mechanism inside.
24:45 i imagine at some point the customer will be complaining about a tapping noise inside their door because that cable tube has not been secured with the rubber isolator like the factory one.
plus the forgotten screw at 25:00 .. i would say he needs to get this thing back to fix it BTW; 6:37 you can see how its factory mounted witht the black clip
Would rather change out a suspension component than tackle these door jobs. As you said the edges of the doors are just sitting there waiting to tear your hands up. These jobs in my dealership were always passed on to the paint shop. Great video
@@nettneo - And there was no need to take them all the way out in the first place, that system is designed to take the elevator and the motor out of the door without removing the bolts. ; )
Exactly my question. He also forgot to secure the regulator cable to the door like the oem one was. He just left it dangling inside the door which will cause rattle in future. Either he's not very concerned about this tiny details or the hourly pay is not that good so he rushes to finish his jobs.
Its very easy to slip the shifer from P to 3 or 2 and I did it once and when the engine got loud I figured it out. My wife did that because one day she said the Jeep was made a lot of noise and it did not want to go very fast. She drove it 12 mile to work and i asked how fast did she drive and she said 65 and I thought well she cleaned the carbon out of the engine. Did not notice any ill effects to the engine, glad it did not blow.
The wife thinks she's a mechanic so when the truck was hard to steer into parking spots she overfilled the power steering reservoir... didn't help. I found it in 4 wheel high 😆.
I had a Liberty just like that and some of the crazy problems that go along with it. Although I didn't have the regulator issues, they were very common. Nothing like driving down the highway and having the window drop suddenly and explode into cubes. I figured out that if you rolled up the windows then just tap the down switch it takes the pressure off the plastic keeper and generally wont break. Love the repair vids keep it up, thanks.
Nice job Ray, One thing I think you forgot to install the second screw on the bottom of the door regulator . There was one on the top and two on the bottom. You can see it around 24:17.
Glad I read the comments before making a similar (although a bit snarkier) comment. I was going to inquire as to what the shop did when the _"inexplicably left over bolts and screws at end of job"_ box was full.
I use blue painter's tape to hold up the window when doing regulators - three strips evenly spaced across window. Doesn't harm paint or leave adhesive behind, works great. Also, that black sticky adhesive for the door cover is butyl rope/tape.
Fantastic. Just subscribed. Great diagnosis. I was a mechanic in several garages and two yrs for hyster forklift 1960s. I could repair anything then. I quit on new cars. 85 now.
A “real perfectionist” would have retrieved the bolt he dropped into the door and installed it where it came from instead of leaving the regulator one fastener short. Having been an mechanic and a manager of mechanics I’d say he’s slightly above average.
Finally! 16 minutes and 47 seconds in and we get the first, Do Doo Do! we didn't even have any 'Click' of "Gravity' to enjoy. ;). Glad you enjoy your work. Good job with the videos too!
Did ya put in the clips for the glass on the new regulator off camera, or was it slight-of-hand? I didn’t see them at all. Then again, it could be a “technician delete” where they left it better than it was built
Awesome videos man, love your stuff! Btw, did you go back and install the final bolt on that regular off camera? Right at 25:00 you can see the left most bolt is not installed and a couple minutes later, i believe you can see it on the ground by the lift arm?
Shall we talk about the screw you missed? The bottom of the window track had two screws (6:37), then when you unscrewed the window motor, the last screw fell inside the door panel (7:35). When you re-attached the window motor, you used three screws, but the bottom part of the window track only had one screw (25:17). This isn't a complaint, I'm just a little too observant
put duct tape on your wedge to help it grip to smooth surfaces in situations like this. a small piece toward the heel if you go to the interior side in the middle of the wedge for the exterior side. also works well when using wedges to open a gap in the door jam to pop the lock. protects the paint well.
I repaired all the regulators on my Liberty using the Steiger Performance kits. FYI you don't have to completely remove those mounting bolts, you just need to loosen them and then you can lift the regulator up and out - there are cutouts in the door metal above each bolt specifically to allow that to happen.
You missed a bolt. The bottom of that regulator has 2 bolts. One left(the hole you had the first time) and one right! “There’s always extra parts when we put them back together” lmao
Just brought to me how long and difficult it is to do or replace broken glass window, My window shattereed going to the down position, and I was thinking of the price of the glass not all the work entailed so you have educated me that I was NOT wripped off Thanks
Sorry I'm late to the party, so I see comments of folks saying, "I would let you work on my car," blah blah blah, look people consider this, would you rather, a mechanic/technician work on your vehicle that records his up close personal work on camera, OR one that doesn't? Sounds like shady work to me, I can tell Ray is an honest guy and takes care of what he is working on and obviously has nothing to hide. Now the Only reason I'd not let you work on my vehicles, is that I happen to be a master mechanic and don't need to bother you Sir. I watch because I enjoy your humor and words and attitude that matches my own and cracks me up! And I have no mechanic friends I'm solo me oh! So, sad maybe, but it's like working on something with a friend. And I also enjoy hearing the customer says this and it's just not lol. Love the channel. I take it back if I wasn't up to doing something, I'd let you work on my vehicles! Good Day Sir!
