thanks for sharing your skills. It really helps to see. Can you tell me what brand of bandsaw blade you use? I cut with a 1/4" blade but it does not cut as nice as yours does.
I prefer Timberwolf blades but have had good experiences with others. I use as coarse a blade as I can find, normally 4-6 TPI. Also devote some time to making sure the bandsaw is setup properly. If the guide blocks aren't set up right they will destroy the blade.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I have been carving for six months. I am trying to research what type of band saw and how large of a motor I need to do the job. Can you share anything that will help me determine how much power I will need?
The bandsaw that I have (and used in the video) has 1/2 HP motor. I use it to cut 4 inch and 6 inch thick basswood on a fairly regular basis and I've never felt that I needed more horsepower. I've ripped 10" cherry logs on a different bandsaw, still with only a 1/2 HP motor without issues. A bigger consideration is whether or not to get a saw that has a cutting depth greater then 6". If you're not planning on doing many figures taller then 12" then you probably don't need to worry about that.
Your carvings are awesome and inspiring.I am very interested in carving but have never tried to carve anything. Can you recommend what wood, & tools do you use? How long have you been carving for? Thank you for sharing your gift
Thanks. Basswood, White Pine and Jelutong are all great carving woods, particularly for the beginner as they are soft. Tools recommendations I can't help you with as I probably have hundreds of different tools from several different brands. Buy quality tools, you won't regret it. I've been carving for about 23 years now.
I am new to carving & this is a great video to understand working with a bandsaw to cut out a carving. Is this a cut out or a rough out? I have also heard of rough outs when referring to preparing wood for carving. Is a cut out & a rough out the same thing & if not what makes them different? Thanks.
This is a cutout. The difference between a cutout (which is basically still square which you can see at the end of the video) and a roughout is that a roughout will have rounded surfaces and be close to the finished shape of the original since roughouts are made by duplicating a finished or nearly finished 3D carving.
Hi Gary, honestly, I don't remember what brand blade I used in the video. I've used Timberblades a lot and always been happy with the results. Any high-quality blade should give you good results.
Hi. I truly enjoyed your video very informative . what i conclude from your video is that you have to do a clay model first in order to be able to trace the front view and side profile view , juxtapose them correctly on paper , so that you can use the bandsaw to cut out the excess wood and make your carving less time consuming and easy . very neat process . 1-is there any other way of making the same pattern ( profile and front view ) without the clay carving?( purchase a pre printed pattern ? free hand it ? ) 2- once you make the pattern , you can chose the approximate size of the wood piece for your wood sculpture , this way minimizing wrong size and waste ? is this correct ? thanks
Hi Abdo, I'm glad you found the video useful. No, you do not need to have a clay model to make the pattern. Certainly using someone else's pattern works as well as drawing your own from scratch. Though when drawing a pattern you have to make sure that the different parts of the pattern line up from front view to side view. I sometimes use drawing apps (such as www.anatomydraw.com/pose-tool-3d.html) instead of an actual clay model to assist with making sure I have correct anatomy and that it lines up from front to side. Normally I scale my pattern to whatever size of piece of wood I have/want to use, but it works either way.
@@OldOakEnterprisescom hi . thanks for your reply. how do you make sure that the different parts of the pattern line up from front view to side view ( this is the challenging part !!!) ?
@@abdoshowah3991 It's actually not too hard, you'll need to draw some horizontal lines on your pattern to make sure things line up. Using my Sea Captain design as an example, one of the places you'd use a horizontal reference line would be at the tips of the fingers of the arm that is resting on the post. Those fingers need to hang down the same amount on both the side view and the front view.
A coping saw will work well for small projects, 2-3" thick max since the coping saws I know of only have a 6" blade (a jig saw would be the electric version of the coping saw). For bigger projects and thicker wood a hand saw can be used to make stop cuts to make the process of chiseling away the excess wood easier.
