Love to see it, especially a corded saw, vindicates my ideas about what a good jig might be for starting out without dropping crazy $ on the specialty plunge or skilsaw timber cutter monstrositys.
I’d love to come see your shop someday! My dad was a woodworker and taught me everything I know. Your work is impeccable and watching your video was mesmerizing. Loved it!! It must be so gratifying when you chisel away and remove the scrapings. Your precision and your love for your craft are both a beautiful thing. We are lucky to have you on the island.
Thank you for the kind words! This chisel was forged by Mr. Barr Quarton, www.barrtools.com. This is the best 2" chisel I ever held - keeps the edge, well-balanced, and light weight (comparatively).
This is just a 2" chisel, not a slick. My slick is 3.5" wide, it's a two-handed thing. I'll pull it out in a video soon, thank you for reminding me about it! The wood is Eastern White Pine. Red Pine is too sappy for this kind of work. To apply for a carpenter position with us, please go to www.manitoulintimberframes.ca/employment and follow directions at the end of the offer.
@@manitoulintimberframes4968 в специальной приспособе, где угол зафиксирован жестко. В ручную угол "плавает". Вы , конечно, мастер, но то, как точите, сильно меня удивило.
@@user-vz6ef1ig9z Ah yes, I used these guides, for sure. I found that the exactness of the angle does not really make a difference, and after a while you get a feel for where the chisel needs to sit when it's ground hollow, i.e. the back and the front of the bevel touching the stone. So what if the bevel is slightly rounded? If it's sharp, and cuts wood like butter, it's what we're after in the end, right, not the perfect 25 degree angle?
