I've serviced about 75 Mikuni and Keihin carburetors and this video is *by far* the best run through of the CVK carburetor I have ever seen. I learned a few more things and learned to forget a couple things, too ;)
The first of a heap of vids I've watched, trying to find out the right way to inst all that retainer and the needle! Awesome vid, mate! You've explained what everything does, not just "replace this, clean that."
I just wanted to Thank you so VERY MUCH for taking the time to share, edit, and upload this video!! Your efforts are NOT in vain, and MUCH appreciated! I know how time consuming editing and uploading can be. But the knowledge, details and tips you share in this video are SO helpful!! I now have the confidence to rebuild the Keihin CVK36 carb on my 07 Suzuki Vinson next weekend. I wasn't sure I wanted to tackle it, but your video was a breathe of encouragement!!!!! I'm sure your busy sharing more knowledge, but do you know if the carb in this video would be the same as a CVK36? Thank you Brother!! God Bless!
Wow, thanks a lot for the video… I just bought a 2018 KLR a few days ago and never owning a carbureted bike I was looking to know how this works in case of any future problems. You play with it if you only have a screw and a nut in your hand… You are a master. professional. Very good job sir👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks so much for this very detailed video! I'm going to clean the CVK34 on my KLR250 for the first time soon and feel pretty confident now that I'll clean it and put it back together properly now.
Looking forward to clean my carb - this is the best video I found for working on the carb! Thanks a lot for making this great video backed with experienced knowledge.
Thanks for doing this video! Sure wish I had found this when I had the carb out of my '10 KLR. I ended up making a couple mistakes in putting in and taking it out a couple times
Thanks man! Helped a lot! My air filter has disintegrated and so lots of dirt got in the carb. As a consequenze of this the air jets were heavily clogged.. Didn't know where they are going..
Thanks for your video. I have a klr 650 2018 with 16000 km or 10000 miles. Lately it started to back fired alot and the sound of the engine is kind of louder. Seems like the engine sounds comes from the carbs area.
Mate if you are in my neighbourhood (Camotes Island, Cebu, The Philippines) drop in and give me a hand with my KLR - I will feed you, provide a room, and buy you beers for the rest of the year!!!
....my 2002 carb is overflowing fuel out of the vent line....massive 1/4" stream of fuel like a horse pissing on a flat rock ...never had this happen before...what's my problem ? Thanks....
Hey brother, I love your video. Very clear. Do you know what might be causing bike to die upon throttle? The jets are clear, needle and seat nolonger leaking, vac lines and fuel pump are all new. It only let's me rev if I spray a little bit of fuel on carbs and wen I turn the idle speed screw, the idle sounds like it won't pick up either. It'll idle on and off choke perfect every time. Just won't rev.
Thank you for this video. I recently bought a 94 klr650 with this carb. The bike ran pretty good. I took the carb off and cleaned it. Put it back together correctly. Now it pours gas and floods itself out. I have a rebuild kit coming in case the float needle is bad. Am I missing anything? Thanks again.
I just took apart carburater on my 2012 KLR to install your kit. The enricher diaphragm had a lot of gummy substance on the vacuum side. Just curious if it's normal? I don't see any holes in the diaphragm. The large diaphragm that drives the needle, also had some gummy oily substance on the vacuum side (top side). I'm a bit puzzled if it's normal. The bike was acting up, stalling after running on choke for 2 minutes (cold start). I also noticed gas leaking from the snorkel drain hole. First thought was that the fuel talp diaphragm was leaking fuel into the vacuum tube but I could not verify it. A new diaphragm sells for $75. I'd hate to spend that much without being sure the doaphragm is defective. I only ran premium fuel in the bike since new. It pings badly on regular fuel. I can see some ethanol damage on the inside of the carb (white flaky coating on aluminum parts). I thought the 2012 model was rated for ethanol fuel but it's not.
not normal no, see the Megacity performance page on how to disable the air cut off valve. Yours is leaking badly by the sound of it. They are such a problem i send a print out with your kit about it, i emailed you about it when your kit shipped and i post about it constantly on facebook. Disabling it completely is a new developement becaue a good replacement valve doesn't exist, even new oem ones leak as it appears oem are cheap ones now too. none work, disable it.
@@megacityperformance3523 Thanks. I don't remember reading about it but I bought the kit a year ago. I can't find anything about it on your webpage. Fecebook wants me to log in. I don't have a Facebook account nor want to have one. Is it posted anywhere else?
I was using a CVK and decided to swap it out with another carb, connected all the right hoses back in place, made sure the throttle cables were in good order, but my only issue now is I have to keep choke cable eliminator pulled out or it stalls. What do you suggest?
Thanks for the video! I just bought a used 2008 KLR, and when the rpms get up around 4000 - 5000, it begins to sort of rhythmically "lurch." The tachometer needle isn't all over the place though, and when I rev it up to 5000 in neutral it still runs smoothly with no "lurching". Do you think this could be a carburetor issue?
What a tutorial!!! I have to do it next weekend on my 08' 35k miles.lused carb cleaner and air compressed but l didn't remove the diaphragm before Big mistake..a lot of back fire and lost power at low speed .So l bought a cheap Klr new carb on ebay not a CVK .Do you think is a good idea to use some of those pieces like diaphragm jets or springs in my CVK?? I'm not sure about material quality.Thanks for this very detailed class.
the slide diaphragm would likely be ok to use, the air cut off, nope. You can no longer buy a cut off that works for long, MCP comes with a mod to disable the cut off. I wouldn't replace quality japanese parts with cheap chinese knock offs.
Very thorough directions. However, can you explain how the choke works on this carb? Seems up open a passage into the diaphragm chamber when pulled out. What does that do?
Great vid! I'm having trouble 50mph and over. It seems that when the bike warms up it starves for fuel and starts surging like it's running out of gas. I put an Inline fuel filter on and the gas just barely trickles. I took the fuel filter screen out of the houseing...still trickles ( I can see thru the sight glass). Question: is this a vaccume issue with the pit kock shutoff valve you think? Any info is appreciated. Thanks man!
that is a classic sign of the carb flaws that the MCP carburetor kit was designed to fix (among other things). Mcp isn't just jets it changes how the carb works and the only way to fix the surging. See the MegaCity Performace facebook page
I have a question? My fuel mixture screw is adjusted to 1/58. The carbon monoxide odor from the muffler is strong. But if I reduce 1/&1/4 turns out. The odor is gone and the throttle response is better and starts quicker. Why does it do that. What's the proper way to afj?
on the front of that CVK carb air intake, at the top part of the air intake, there's a half-inch wide or inch wide oblong wide air hole, what's that for?
03 KLR 650. Grant, I found my idle mixture venturi clogged. Now that I put it together it idles well but it dies when you give it gas. What did or didn't I do? I can't get to those damn adjustments with the carburetor on because the starter is in the way...
Great video! I learned a lot about the carb. Question though.... I think you said turning the fuel screw more that 1.75 turns out doesn't make any difference because you exceed the adjustment limit. Yet, you adjusted the fuel screw to 2.25 turns out in preparation for your MCP carb kit. Did I miss something? Again, great video. Thanks for putting it on RU-vid.
the video is referring to a stock carb without mcp, WITH mcp the fuel screw works properly and should end up between 1.5 and 3.0 turns out. Any more than 1.75 turns out with a stock carb starts to flood the bike, no matter what mods are done to the bike
Bought this 2012 KLR with 1,140km on it. The bike is virtually brand new but went into storage in 2018 and hasn’t runned since. The previous owner suggested that it had a carb issue. I dropped the oil and manually turned the crankshaft as a precaution. Drained the old gas and added a carb cleaner additive. New battery etc... Got it going and it idles perfectly. My problem is that it bogs down at rpm higher than 2,500. Thoughts? Would following your detailed explanation fix this issue?
Thanks Grant, took the carb apart and did find some fine particles of metal stuck in the main jet. Put it back together and the bike did run perfectly for a short little while but back to square one I guess. Thanks!
@@megacityperformance3523 The pilot jet is sealed under a witness cap (for the lack of better words). I didn’t check due to the bike starting very easily and idling with no issue. Something else caught my attention, the plastic nut that attaches the choke cable to the carburetor housing was stripped and hanging loosely. Went for another test drive tonight and only made it out a few yards before it bogged down and stalled. Just for fun, I switched the fuel petcock to the reserve position and issue is gone. Clogged fuel line or faulty valve maybe? Thanks for your follow up!
That is one of the indicators of teh design flaws in the CVK40. The MCP Carburetor correction Kit from MegaCity performance fixes that and many other issues. facebook.com/MegaCityPerformance
Really good educational video - Very well explained. I've dismantled my carb KLR650 2003 - only runs on choke- sure enough pilot jet blocked solid.. But I don't think the carb is standard. Its a CVK FJ28 V6387 and strangely the throttle bracket does not have a clip in for the return 'shut' throttle cable, only a throttle open - relies on the spring to return. The emulsion tube has 4/2. 4/2 holes and no number as far as I can see. Main jet is 145 standard, Pilot 40, Needle is N24B. I wondered if you could be so kind as to possibly explain what carb I have? Do I need to replace it? Many thanks
Its amazing what people have engineered for internal frustration engines. All useless knowledge for the future of electronic power. I've been in Thomas Edison's house and seen his original lights illuminating the garage of his electric cars. All still working.
