DAMP WALLS AND WET CAVITY WALL INSULATION. 

Thank you, so many homeowners are unaware and getting needless things done to try and fix it, so if I can educate then I’m doing my job.

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

Glad to help

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

I fought off knocking hard sell cavity fill merchants for years on my old house, then finds the old house I have just bought has saturated external walls, freezing internal walls, tons of this fluffy stuff inside ( is yellow though?) and mould inside 😪

It might be worth removing a brick externally in the location worst affected just to see.

Cavity-walls must NOT be bridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching bridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

They are certainly better than Whitewool but they too can allow moisture to track across the cavity. We also see that the bonding for platinum beads is very hit and miss, which I guess depends on how clean the glue line is and the temperature during installation. My guess is that it becomes more clogged as the day goes on when travelling from one site to another.

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

Hi Bart, thanks for watching. I very much doubt that the pointing is making your internal walls cold. If you wanted to give us a call, we can understand your circumstances better and provide you with some ways in which could help resolve this issue for you.

Maybe get the repointing looked at,then consider a BBA approved cavity wall insulation product that carries a 25year guarantee 👍

Check inside the cavity wall, either wet insulation or bridging. If the cavity is clear then I would more than likely point the finger at a potential condensation issue which is common on bay windows as the windows themselves are a large area of heat loss and will be one of the coldest points, therefore condensation will naturally happen in this area. If it seems like this might be the cause, correct heating and ventilation will remedy the problem.

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

Can’t lie with physical evidence on a video. More fool the house builders for using a cheap unsuitable material. Thanks for watching and check out the next video, the insulation is soaked and it’s whitewool.

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

Hi Mark, all I can say is that many homeowners have had problems with whitewool insulation and if you are worried about whether it is wet or not, I would remove a brick externally in the most exposed area of the wall and check. Normally you would have signs inside by way of damp patches, blistering paint or mould.

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

If it’s close to an external wall then possibly. Do you suffer with condensation much?

@@CoastalWallTiesRustington hi. I cant see much condensation issues. I think it could just be the wrong paint was put on. The walls were replastered, and they used a really cheap matt white paint from screwfix. Noticed The walls get very dirty with minimal touching, and i noticed that are several patches where the paint has become bubbled or powdery. I cant see any black mould anywhere in the property, and the bits where the bubbled paint has been peeled off, the plaster is the same light colour. Also, i believe the insulation was done around 2016 if i recall correctly. Hopefully its not an issue, but might need to call someone to check it

Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity-wall); or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall, through the touching abridging insulation, and into the inner wall; making the inner wall damp inside the building. Injecting foam into the cavity-walls stops the property from breathiing: resulting in condensation saturation of the inner-walls inside the property. Cavity-walls that are already built up can NOT have cavity-wall insulation added. Cavity-wall insulation batts(panels) can ONLY be installed from the very start of construction of the cavity-walls. If cavity-wall insulation is to be used, there must be a large air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the outer wall inside the cavity-wall; this includes an air space gap in-between the face of the cavity-wall insulation batts and the cavity-wall tie drip-points(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Cavity-wall insulation batts must touch ONLY the inner-walls inside the cavity-walls (of course touching the cavity-wall-ties and retaining-clips also). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. (S.V.Q.) BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this.

Sorry don’t follow?

@@CoastalWallTiesRustington just means nice job in Geordie accent basically 😂😂😂

👍 google translate doesn’t translate geordie. Thanks though 😂

Back in the early 1970's I was an apprentice electrician. I did used to wonder about the wisdom of filling cavities with insulation, which was becoming more popular around that time, and I thought that maybe it was a timebomb. After all, the cavity space is there for a reason, and bridging it does seem a backward step to me (I realise that there are ways where cavity insulation can be effective when installed from new build.) Now companies are specialising in removing the stuff!

Why are the government still,pushing cavity fill? I ignored the knocking hard sell on my previous home nicely and had zero problems and the same fuel bills as my next door neighbour. However I have just had a council selected contractor out to the 1920s property we just moved into last November because we qualify for a HUG grant. The cold internal walls and floor contributed hugely to the house being freezing all winter, with the inner leaf of lower external corners down to 4 degrees in places. I asked about dot and dab insulated plasterboard on the inside of external walls, but they said that was too much work! Incredibly considering how cold it was it turns out we already have 25 year old fluff cavity fill like this junk, and they want to suck it out and fill with whatever modern version there is! They also want to add more loft insulation even though I told them the ceilings were warm. Surely we can only be talking percentage improvements here, it just sounds like another government tricky box exercise. Also the fact we had unknown cavity fill explains why my external leaves are so hideously wet after a rainstorm despite large high and low level air bricks …..there is no airflow in the cavity to dry it out. I want to just ignore their help and do my own thing now, but my wife says “it’s free” 😂 Well so is a kick up the arse but I don’t want that either, and I believe it’s thinking like that that persuaded everyone to get this dreadful stuff squirted in by the government all through the 90s.