Thanks for this video. I have a walnut project in the works. I don't want to really change the natural color of the wood I just want to deepen and protect it. It was great to see how the "Dark Walnut" danish oil didn't really change the color much. I have seen images where putting the wood in the sun for a few hours after applying the danish oil really darkens it.
I used Watco Medium Walnut on poplar for trimming out windows. Let dry 72 hours and then three coats of gloss polyurethane and they came out really nice. I have Honey Oak Watco I’m thinking about using on a maple guitar neck
The golden oak is a "piss yellow" until it dries/cures and then it becomes a bit more muted. But this also depends on the shade of white your wood is. All these stains should dry a shade darker than when you apply them wet.
I made a pine farmhouse table and used the dark walnut after sanding to 220 grit. On my table the dark walnut danish oil was much darker, but more like a medium walnut, not at all like the sample shown in the video, I used 2 coats. It makes a difference if you sand rather than using a scrap piece of wood without sanding, and of course the wood you will be using. I learned the hard way to test on a piece of wood just like you are using before doing entire piece (first time finishing a table). Thanks for the video, I wish my table turned out a bit lighter like the sample you showed!
Great video. Thank you very much for posting it. Originally I was going to use Mahogany for my project, but now after seeing the results, I’m going with brown. Thank you for helping ke decide on the color.
Ok, I'm not going crazy/got a bad batch, that Red Mahogony is definitely red wine/purple. Tried it on some scrap pine, and it looks terrible. I applied a lot more than the video, and it came out almost bruise purple; not very appealing. Don't think it's really meant for light woods. Of note, instructions have an optional step for pine specifically: wipe on some Natural color then wipe off immediately. Seems more like a hedge against blotching than anything else; like applying a pre-stain.
camera is a little far away. i'd zoom in a bit more so people can see what they're looking at. if you wanted more protection, could you apply lacquer or poly on top?
I think you can put polyurethane over it but you have to wait till complete cure. weeks to months depending on ventilation(fresh air over it,use a fan to speed up cure) and most importantly temperature. at 78 it cures super fast. btw to fast will damage to finish.
Absolutely. I've had great success with Minwax wipe on poly. You don't need to wait weeks or months. to do that - 3 to 4 days is sufficient under normal, room temperature
That is correct, but for the sake of color comparison I think this will suffice. If you make a color comparison video using the surface flooding method be sure to link here for a color tone comparison.
Does the pine wood require the danish oil finish? If yes, then is it compalsary to sand the furniture before applying the danish oil onto pine wood? Is danish oil prescribed for indoor furniture?
Hey Karim, you can use danish oil on just about any kind of wood, including pine. Sanding is not compulsory, but if you are looking for a smooth finish it is advised. Danish oil can definitely be used as a finish on indoor furniture.
I have never used a pre-stain before applying danish oil and I would imagine it would interfere with the oil absorption process, though I do not have any references to back that up. I also don't believe pre-stains is normally used before dyes. Hopefully another viewer comes along with additional insight.
For a less blotchy finish on pine or birch, yes. It is recommended by the manufacturer to pre-stain or condition the wood (even says so on the back of the can).
Is the wood suppose to look so blotchy after applying? I am trying to decide if I should apply lacquer to some wood for a desktop or danish oil. If danish oil looks like this, then I think I will use lacquer.
@@FredPutterman Thanks for the reply, how would you recommend I proceed with my project (I have never done this before)? The wood is basically butcher block that is 8 feet long and 25 inches deep. I was thinking about brushing lacquer on it but some RU-vid videos state that the size of wood I am using might be too big for this approach because lacquer dries so quickly. Seems like Danish oil is an easier application which is appealing to me, as being a rookie at this, would like to be done as quickly as possible lol. I would not be eating on this table. I will just be a place for me to work so I would only have my two pc monitors, keyboard, mouse, and laptop.
Davis Winchester thank you for the response, much appreciated. The butcher block I am getting already looks like it has great color already so I think natural is the way to go for me, thanks again!
@@ronin120 A natural danish finish sounds like it would be a good choice for your piece. If you are just using the surface as a desk you will not need a highly protective finish. If later you decide that you would like a more protective finish you can always add a lacquer or wipe on finish over the danish. Cheers
Hey Rezanadesian, if the wood is already finished with an oil like Danish Oil you can add another coat, but if there is a top coat like polyurethane or lacquer, Danish Oil would not be your best choice.
@@MaverickMakersUSA hi thank you for responding. Im thinking of using it for my keris ( traditional dagger) sheath. It is already have a finishing. I dont know what kind of finishing they are using. In my country all i can find online is watco teak oil can i use watco teak oil?
Can I use this to refresh wood windows. They are Pella windows but bleached almost white by the sun in places and so dry. I tried beeswax but did not enhance at all
I haven't tried Danish Oil on on interior window wood, but it's probably worth trying to see if it gives you the effect and protection you are looking for. The nice thing about Danish is you can always apply a different topcoat if you need additional protection.
Can I apply an oil based wood stain and finish with danish oil after it's dried thoroughly? Want to stain some cabinets a Gunstock color but I enjoy the look of the danish oil, and I think the natural may interfere with the stain less
Sir. Question for you.Regarding wood finish. Is there a finish that we should not use (oil lacker paste ) on wood turning for food or drink? Thanking you for your time.
I'm not in expert in food safe finishes, but Stumpy Nubs put out a video recently called "Is any wood finish REALLY food-safe?" that would be a good place start.
I'm seriously considering doing a walnut gun stock on a classic M1 garand. I want the classic reddish brown with a lot of pop in the grain. I'm thinking of doing a traditional sanded in finish starting at 220 and working up to 600 then a few top coats of Tru oil buffing with xxxx steel wool for a satin finish. Not sure what color? Have you seen how the red mahogany comes out on walnut? Also thinking about doing a traditional french red stain I know it produces a classic reddish brown. What is your opinion based on your experience? I'm inexperienced and researching refinishing. Your advice would be to appreciated. Thank you
I used exterior Watco natural finish oil on mahogany doors. The can says it contains UV inhibitors to protect from sunlight. It appears blotchy after two coats. I may not have wiped off the excess. What should I do?
I've never had issues with blotching, but you may want to give it another thick coat of oil, make sure to wipe the excess after the proper time, and let it fully dry.
Do you think the dark walnut would look good and work well on a walnut gun stock? I saw a video where a guy put the dark walnut on black walnut table top and it looked awesome but I am not sure how it would work well on a gun stock that will be out in the elements and would it need maintenance? Thanks for sharing your advice would be appreciated.
Hey Brian, I think both the walnut and natural danish finishes would look great on a walnut gun stock. They will both pop the grain, but the walnut danish will probably give even more contrast. Danish would probably hold up OK with light exposure to the elements, but most of my use has been for indoors, so I cant say firsthand. You might also check out Tru Oil. I know that is popular with gun stocks and guitar necks. The safest bet would be to test a few methods on off cuts of wood to see what works best. Cheers
@@nicholasdriscoll6537 I was thinking about Tru oil also it's popular for gun stocks. I was thinking about using the dark walnut Danish oil for the contrast and maybe use Tru oil as a top coat probably 2 or 3 coats of each with the Danish oil sanded in for a really smooth finish. You think this would work? Thanks
The finish is very blotchy. You said you were going to flood the surface, then you proceeded to very lightly wipe it on. Is that why it is blotchy or is your results typical if Danish oil? I have never used this particular product. For the record...I am not implying you did it wrong. I saw this as more of a color demonstration than a how to video.
Hey Sgt, that's right this is less a demonstration of how to apply Danish oil than a color tint demonstration. For bet results follow the directions on the can. Like stains, the tinted Danish oils may cause a little blotching. To be fair, the tinted Danish oils are not necessarily meant for lighter colored wood like in this demonstration. The walnut tint is really meant to be applied to walnut wood and draw out more character than the natural tinted Danish oil. But that does not mean you can't use these products in creative ways or in combination with other products. Always test or experiment on off cuts for best results.
