This is one of the most insanely impressive things I've ever seen, wow. Is there anything you don't know how to build? You have incredible skills in so many areas. Unbelievable how good one can get at something with passion for it, and the brains and talent.
Very nicely made, the only thing I would add or change is to replace the clear acrylic sheet with a hazy mat one, to cast softer light and to distribute the light more evenly.
So nice, wish I could like it twice! I like your idea of using magnets to attach the lights, making them interchangeable without the need for rewiring. However, keep in mind that heat will destroy magnets and can cause glue to fail. In your case there may not be enough heat generated by the current flowing through the magnets to worry about. Just keep in mind that if your magnets or glue fails, check for heat issues. When I build a similar project, thanks to your inspiration, I plan to keep the interchangeability feature but position magnets out of the loop. As always, you are so awesome! Thanks!
This would be useful for film or photo lighting too, you could switch LED panels from cool white lighting to warm amber tones. Or from a larger panel to a smaller more concentrated, fewer but brighter LEDs if you need to while working or something. This is definitely going on my Build list.
it would not be good for film or photography. LEDs have very poor color accuracy and unless you are using a very specific kind of LED, their color rendering is extremely poor.
It is this kind of DNA which you possess which makes this world a much better place. I wish I had neighbors like this. The use of a lapel mic and great audio levels are most beneficial. Again, all of this is a matter of DNA - a level of consciousness. Girl, you got it going on.
AMAZING! I've had an idea for an articulating lamp / item holder bouncing around in my head for a few months now, and here's this video where you have it figured out! Very cool
That's a really neat lamp. I just bought a small battery operated, magnetized worklight that I can put onto my vice, mostly because it was cheap and because I don't have the workspace or tools to do more than soldering. I got a upgrade idea: why not make a stationary panel on the lamp with a magnet in each corner and several LED panels with magnets on the back corners, then connect the power wires to the magnets like you did with the little magnet connector, but now you could just pull the LED panel off and snap another one in its place without taking it off the lamp's arm. The four magnets would deliver the power from the lamp to the panel. Magnets are indeed great for this because they maintain a good and firm connection instead of relying on friction like normal connectors.
Nice build. The DIY mag safe connector is a cool addition, although indexing to avoid accidentally reversing the polarity would make a nice touch. Also, press the magnets, sharp blows to magnets can have detrimental effects on them. Again, cool build.
Only thing I'd add would be to have a piece of small dowel or even a piece of bamboo skewer sticking out of one half of the power coupler, and a corresponding hole on the other half to provide some polarity protection. Won't hurt the LED's, but I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy. Might also round the corners of the panel, I could see myself getting poked in the eye if not. Otherwise, a spectacular project and one I'm going to make. Always looking for good ways to make a better LED lamp.
Wonderful how led's make such super lights for tiny work like soldering/de-soldering surface mount components & no risk of broken glass as happens with tungsten, fluorescent or halogen lamps, nor the massive heating of halogens.
Darbin Orvar Awesome project.... Love your channel..... are those normal neodymium magnets ? ..... Can you share the purchasing link or details on the magnet
Ok, some paradigm shifts here, contact cement for gluing up plywood, never considered magnetic circuit connection, never used strip lights for a lamp, never considered a remote control for a lamp, and never thought to use wood as a segment for this application. But now that have seen this I have some ideas to make molded plywood fixtures. I have made formed plywood furniture in the past but always chairs, tables, cigar humidors, jewelry stands, makeup stands, tack boxes, aircraft cabinet and the like. But now I'm going to do some LED lamps, phone speaker boxes, notepad stands, and the list goes on. Thank you for doing this vedio.
Oh please don't get grumpy about a simple joke. I like Linn and her channel. She's absolutely brilliant in her woodworking and electrical stuff. It wasn't meant seriously, so let's not make this a big point...
+Tanel E Probably not a concern for this project, but keep in mind that heat will destroy magnets. I would probably have placed the magnets next to some sort of conductive pad.
@@darbinorvar Did I miss the part about the power supply/power requirements/wall adapter for the lamp? I definitely feel like I'm missing something. Do you have detailed plans posted somewhere?
Most excellent, I love the high degree of articulation!!! Now, I've been told that running current through magnets will very slowly demagnetize them, but I have no personal experience proving this. I imagine for an application like this it'd be close to imperceptible, though.
+Rick Rose The reason people don't usually do that is because the heat from the soldering is de-magnetizing. But if you're ok with weak magnets holding the connector - go ahead.
Fantastic piece of work and useful. Loved the articulating arm design very much. Maybe you would like to design a groove and slot at the magnet power switch to avoid wrong polarity connection (just my own thinking )
Sharp idea with the electromagnetic circuitry! As the LEDs are by far the most expense component to this build, I would love to see that LED panel made easily detachable from the articulating arm so that you could move it to any number of other articulating arms around the house. Maybe you could use, I don't know, magnets maybe as the connection point ;)
Now add the function to pan or tilt the head left to right - then you got a really utility workbench light. There are instances where you want to target on an object which is vertical and not flat, the light would be able to pan vertically to accommodate focusing lighting on an object which is located in a vertical undercut and is also on the vertical axis. Where there is an object in the vertical plane, you would then change the light head to a smaller one so that the light source is in front of your tools and hands. Otherwise the head you show here would be in back of your hands. Your hand would then block the lighting from that panel. So having an articulating floating arm which can also pan in both directions with a smaller head is needed.
+Edward Iglesias I like that as well, however I would be concerned about heat destroying the magnets. There probably isn't enough being generated in this design, but it is probably worth keeping in mind in general.
Wow, what a fantastic build!! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make and upload this!! I'm new at electronics but slowly learning - could you do a quick video sometime about the lights and connections you did in this light project please. I struggle to understand why you had a long roll but cut a small portion and it still worked without burning out? The arm is just perfect - I was looking for ideas to make one!! Keep up the brilliant work, your channel is great and you have a very good way of explaining things!! 😊😊
Loved the video... Just suggesting maybe a keyed polarized plug instead of the magnets would accomplish the same goal (easy fast switching of light sets) and also prevent any accidental shorting and cost less than magnets.... Thanks for doing video... Dave
Enjoy the Scandinavian look to most of your projects, however where is your CNC for some these projects? Would have been neat for the arms and knobs. Keep up the great projects!
i am not sure how those joints can handle the weight at the same shape i want it to be in time. I would expect it to start failing against gravity every some mins. But if that happens to be the case placing rubber washers could help. Cool looking lamp overall. Need to build one and for sure I am going to make use of your idea while building mine, like the magnet connection. Thank you.
I love this light, especially since you can add sections. I have a situation where I want to put my lamp behind my computer screen and bring the lamp head over the top.
Linn, I see you are using a remote to control the light. But I was noticing that the magnetic connection could function quite well as a manual switch on its own; assuming you don't need a dimmer. As always, great build.
The wire connection with magnets was brilliant! :O I am definetely going to use that one - and I actually have been thinking some kind of quick release connector for one future project. But I wouldn't never thought of trying that. Thanks!
Hello Linn. Great video! I would really appreciate if you could give more information on the joints and how much loosening or adjustments you have to do to move/fix the lamp to some position. Thanks.
+Darbin Orvar Okey i have to "steal" that idea to my own projects! Just curious, what type of magnets these were and is there any special trick on soldering the wires on? Also have you tested that magnet connector wont cause amps to rise due possible poor connection (i mean its not like any standard connector and lose ones cause the connector just heat up if connection is poor) ?
I made something smilier I used alternating LED strips between worm and cold light and add a dimer to the 2 power feeds so you can adjust the light output nice build your wood work is grate mine I attached it to a old lamp stand not as nice I think I will mod mine with the magnets thanks for the share
I think I want to try this but with a panel in the shape of a ring. Always got frustrated when I'm working on something small and I couldn't get up close to it because my head was in the way of my lamp.
2 questions......1) what's the point of the magnetic plexi over the LEDs? 2) when soldering to those magnets, do they need to be those high power neodymium magnets? Thanks!
Is it hard to change out LED panels like you created if something burns out? Do you think there is a place for this kind of lighting for home over head lights in the kitchen, dining room or bedroom? What kind of fancy shapes would you make for wall or ceiling lights?
Hello Linn. I would really appreciate if you could give more information on the joints and how much loosening or adjustments you have to do to move or fix the lamp to some position. Thanks.
I'm afraid you didn't add any security or guide to prevent the plus to be connected to the minus. Maybe adding a diode to the magnet system is a good idea.
You can use some covers: porzadekwkablach.pl/environment/cache/images/0_0_productGfx_18df48707413f0105ca0b01700e0d655.jpg There is professional jack plugs with magnets: encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQEgS5MO-RbnGCExUxDpBowUWGq1Rb9n3Ie95ljmnvhNeFCI9pn3Q Best, Loszmi
+3MrP3 for the wiring she's using neodimium magnets, which are coated with nickel (electrical resistivity = 69.3 nΩ·m at room temperature). I've measured the resistance of some old neodimium magnets of differents shapes and lenghts, and it was around 2.2Ω. Also, seems like the wiring connectrion wouldn't work using ferrite magnets: I got an overscale reading when I tried to measure their resistance (my ohmmeter goes up to 2MΩ).
Do you find that the adhesive on the LED strips "lets go" when they get warm? I ask because my strips always seem to stop sticking after the LEDs have been on for a couple of hours. Dabs of hot-glue seems to hold much better and longer.
