Well, to compare the two more evenly, you should use the same calibration software (DisplayCal). Also when it comes to precision, speed is probably not a good idea. Just my two cents.
Great timing, I've literally got the SpyderX in another tab waiting to be bought while I hunt for reviews comparing it to older solutions I can find second hand 😆
Were you using the latest software for both devices? Interesting - maybe there is a third option. It's nearly as important to carry the calibration through to your printer and scanner...
Yes, when talking about printing (or scanning) it becomes a longer and more involved process, as I briefly said. Since I send my 'serious' printing to a professional printshop, I wanted to concentrate on getting my displays correct and matched. Software for both was freshly downloaded from the respective vendors For the X-Rite, the software is a bit older because the device is now discontinued.
@Amir Mark I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Thank you for this video, it made me realize how very little I know about technology! I think I need one! What kind of bird is that black and white speckled beauty?
Glad it was interesting! The birds are European Starlings (Sturnus vulgaris) - they are often overlooked as they're fairly common in gardens, but they're very good looking birds and also have a lot of character :)
I had no idea these items existed, I use apple mac and I've had some good results with pictures I've had printed through a German company. I also hadn't taken into account the room lighting when editing photos, anyone here used these item to calibrate a mac screen? And what were the results. Hope all well Geoff 👌👍
Hi Jon, I believe mac screens usually being fairly high-end technology and are generally pretty good right out of the box. There may still be gains from calibration, but perhaps not such big improvements as you'll see from a more mainstream screen! It's the same with higher end displays that are designed for photo / video editing; they'll probably come with profiles that are already be pretty good.. Yes, all good here - Ivy and I had our first photography trip this morning, which is to say she was asleep in the sling while I tried to get a few shots of a flock of golden plover :)
@@GeoffCooper thank you for the info Geoff, I probably won't bother buying this type for kit to be honest as I am pleased with the prints I have had done. Still it's good to know these things for future reference. Good to hear all is well pal, hopefully it won't be to long before Ivy has a camera of her own, all the best mate.
Great advice Geoff. It is not something that I have ever done as I normally find the Macbook is pretty good. However I am thinking of adding a separate screen so very useful. Cheers Keith
Thanks Keith - I know macs often claim to already have very good colour accuracy, so maybe it’s less important, but will definitely be worth it if you’re matching a second screen
@@GeoffCooper one more question Geoff, who do you use to get your calendars printed. I normally just use VistaPrint but not sure if there is a better option?
@@KGsPhotography I now use a local company in Glasgow for the calenders: thecopyandprintshop.com/. I have used an online company (PrinterPix) previously but got fed up with the inability to change the layout and their utterly ridiculous postage costs!
I recently bought a laptop of HP and I invested 72k inr.. And I think the HP0103tx has weird colours.. Will spyder fix the colours ?? Or it will move the slider of my inbuilt colors calibration during calibrating?? I don't know what to do? Should I buy a new desktop or should I buy spyder. I only use my pictures for social media purpose
Hi Nilutpal, The Spyder works by embedding a colour profile into your graphics driver, so it probably works at a lower level than the calibration sliders (for best results those should be set to the default before starting with the calibration device).. Before you start any of that though, check there aren't any battery saving or 'night time' modes activated in the laptop that might be causing the strange colours...
After reading the ambient light, the software recommended 120 cd/m^2 brightness (which I think I called luminance in the video) - I then read that it was recommended to add ~20 to the number when using the screen for 'mixed' use like video editing and also everyday PC Use... I'll be totally honest and admit I don't remember where I got that from though - anyway, it's been working well for me up to now! I would recommend having a look at this website as a great resource for everything related to colour management: www.colourmanagement.net/the-basics/
It's normal for the 'default' calibration to seem dark because it's designed to be matched with a print - alwayus darker than a screen... I find for general editing an increase of around ~10-15% brightness over the calibrated values works well.
The much newer software iStudio from x-rite also works with the old colormunki. I think that would be a interessting comparison also. I have good results with it. Thank you for the video. Very interessting
What's your experience with recalibration? I have one of those and it suggests to redo the calibration regularily. I wonder if I should bother and what would be a resonable period.
I tend to only do it when I change something significant in the workspace lighting or the graphics card / display setup.. That ends up being 2-3 times per year. I think if I was making a lot of prints or doing something really critical, I might do it more often...
It does but in a slightly round-about way. It gives the option for the luminance to be ‘unchanged’ so if you’ve already set it how you want, it won’t change it and will just correct the colours…
@@GeoffCooper I see, thanks. I tried the i1 Display Studio (successor to the Color Munki) and it has an option to set Luminance manually during the calibration process. After watching your video and seeing the way the Spyder calibration menu system works, I think I will stick with my i1 Display Studio. It seems to have a few more customizable settings. And the process seems more logical and straightforward and easier to understand. Also, the i1 Display seems to have quite a few more color patches that it measures -- a wider range of colors. Have you tried the i1 Display Studio? it's currently on sale for $30 off, US dollars. Thanks for the comparison video!
@@sl2608 yeah, the ColorMunki had that option too and I did think it weird that to get the same with the SpyderX was so faffy. I did find the process a lot quicker with the Spyder, but then maybe quick isn't really a great feature as it's not something I'd be doing often and getting it just right is more important! I've not tried the i1 Display Studio, but to be honest I think what I have now meets my needs well enough for the time being..
The lighting on the two screens is pretty much the same in actual day-to-day use, and they are a bit different unless calibrated. For the video recording there was almost certainly some extra lighting in the room (though I can't remember what)...
