Check out Dave MacLeod's climbing technique course at altitudeclimbing.com/climbing... Dave MacLeod's 20 Quickfire Questions with Magnus Midtbø Shot and Edited by Sam Tuck Music and Sound Effects: share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn
Can you imagine being one of those two guys on Requiem? How wild is it that they've influenced one of the greatest climbers of our time without even knowing 🤯
I love Magnus' wry shake of the head when Dave names Echo Wall and not Rhapsody, and describes Rhapsody as safe and Echo Wall as serious. "I'm never going to try that route".... having already had at least the risk taking side of his ass kicked by the sheer insanity of Rhapsody. No disparaging Magnus, though - I side with him. These two climbs are bonkers, as we say in Scotland.
I thought Dave's advice to younger trad climbers about not getting blasé about falling on crappy gear was thought-provoking and well said, coming from somebody with his resume. Understanding and mitigating risk are critical skills, and it's easy to mistake recklessness for boldness.
funny Dave mentioned that it was the awkwardness that spoke to him. In a way I think the same for me, when I saw the original stuff, I felt like we could just hang out and be friends, Magnus felt human and approachable. I think that is also what I liked about Dave's channel. I am sick of the celebrities who think too highly of themselves, I like the real people. That's why I like watching you guys work routes, because you don't always flash them, and seeing the struggle is relatable. That and the dieting experiments. There are so many lies out there, and I have decided only by trying something myself will I know how it will work for me. Dave's stuff was helpful because he wasn't out to make a buck off of it, he was really searching for what worked and what didn't.
question for dave (if he reads comments :)) have you - in the 10 experimental years - ever tested a period of tofu instead of the mentioned red meat as a protein source? if yes: how noticable/big was the difference?
He goes into this in depth in his own channel. Been a while since I watched but I think he found he was struggling with other issues like depression and general fatigue and diet changes towards more carnivorous options helped him get through that
I spent decades trying to substitute tofu and other plant based products, but find out the hard way that we are obligate carnivores. Red meat is the key to human strength and proper mental functioning.
@@benjam_morgan interesting. i wish that was a true objective. but I suspect we would have eliminated depression and fatigue in the world by now if it was a cure for them to eat meat. thank you for your input though, I haven't watched much of dave's channel.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 thank you. do you happen to know any numbers on that which have been found to support the meat thesis? I don't find clear studies to defend it and can't say I see the same results in my own experiments, at least yet (which I started because I didn't make much progress even by systematic training). that's why I am interested if I am on the right track and pick up on statements like Dave's
oh I want to check out the course, and I am sure it is worth every penny, but it is too much for me right now. My wife tells me 48 years old isn't the time to start climbing hard, LOL. I think why, after 30 years I finally figured out that power isn't my style, LOL and maybe technique might help.
Trad is maybe less common because of the cost. I think Climbing in and of itself is almost as enjoyable, maybe even less stressful on sport routes, but the cost to get set up, is 1/10 of trad. The gear is so spendy, unless you have a rich dad, or something it's hard to justify the expense.
isn't free rider around E6 6b? and considering a lot of the harder trad routes include no fall zones anyway not sure if it would be bumped that high - as crazily impressive as it is
@@ppeppe Don't see much of it on YT, see a lot of cave content don't get me wrong. Just I haven't seen much cross over between the caving world and climbing world. In regard to rated routes etcs
We might be meaning different things, I hadn't pictured caving, just caves. Eg Silence 9c is in a cave ? But yes, you're right, I'm not aware of many hard grades routes in underground cave systems, though they are not places I'm familiar with mind !
@@ppeppe Ahh I gotcha, I'm not nerdy on terms and what nots so we can just call it a cave. Looks like a sick climb. This mainly comes from a stoned thought I had while watching cave divers swim through the vertical spaghetti tunnels cave form. Bare dangerous I reckon, that's probably why people don't do it.
His answer to the E13 question shows why people think he’s a sandbagger. The two routes mooted at around E12 at the moment are both well enough protected 9a’s so logically E13 would be around a well protected 9a+/b. Dave’s answer: 9c…
In dave's defence, uk trad grades are just wider than sport grades. So an increase of 1 sport grade (all else being equal) doesn't mean an extra E grade. Although I still think he's a bit of a sandbagger :)
I don't think it's as simple as that though. Hard Cheese is probably close to 9a, it's like a V10 boulder, into a V11 boulder, followed by another V10 boulder with literally zero protection and it's E10. Is James route really E12? I don't know the other route mooted to be E12. Dave has refused to grade Echo Wall but reading between the lines it's prob also E11 and pretty certain death so does E12 really exist? E11 to E13 is obviously 2 full E grades, 1 E grade (say E6 for example) could cover anything from f7a+ to f7c+ so there's big gaps even in 1 grade so what he's saying makes sense.
Yeah but if that's true it messes up the grade scale, he's making it an exponential which most other people have come to realise isn't good. As much Dave is one of my favourite climbers and RU-vidrs, I don't think he's right about grading.
Magnus, I don't think it's a question of "vegans are going to be angry". Even if eating red meat would give me super powers I wouldn't eat it, my ethics are more important than climbing a grade whatever. And to be clear, of course I'm not imposing my ethics on no one. I'm sure Dave is a person with his own ethics and that's fine. And I consider my former self, who ate meat, an ethic person too, it's just that I hadn't let myself deep into certain "truths". But everyone has to find their own "truth" and their own search for their ethic self. It's just that the comment "vegans are going to be angry" sounds a little lame.
@@WeirdMicky I know what you mean. In my experience, not only in veganism, a lot of people with strong ethics in whatever field (religion, relationships between sexes, abortion, politic figures, climbing grades ;-), etc etc) are easily triggered. On one hand, I consider that unpleasantly egocentric, on the other, as in my case with industrial animal suffering, I kind of understand. But I try not to judge anyone. Anyway. "Vegans are going to be angry" sounds simplistic to me.
@@alvaroe7678I think you're diving a bit too deep about a throw away comment Magnus made. Besides, he actually didn't say anything as simplistic and all-encompassing as "vegans will be angry" - he said "you might piss off some vegans." You're the one who simplified the idea away from having any nuance.
Cool vid, cool peeps. Outside of pissing of vegans, tho I'll just put here that eating a lot of red meat is awful for the environment? One of the worst things you could do in terms of CO2 emissions...
Meat is the only food that can be produced with carbon negative footprint. But the Greens will rail against it until the end of Days, which is their belief system, not the facts or science.
@@walendaaa Okay and a setting off a thermonuclear bomb is worse than both of those things... what is your point? Mine is that if you have the option, you should avoid eating meat (especially beef) because the result of billions of people subsisting on it is catastrophic for the environment and seriously ethically questionable when it comes to committing mass slaughter of animals when perfectly good alternatives exist. Also, "not flying on a private jet" is pretty much the default option for 99.9% of the population, so I'm glad to see that people are taking your advice on that one!
Dave is not ignorant on this at all. He has done the research and explains his views in depth, in public, including stating where he thinks he got it wrong or where the science is fuzzy.
Adding random articles to a video doesn't equate to research. I recommend listening to insights from actual professional climbers like Ondra and Megos, rather than relying on two former climbers who now make only RU-vid content for making some money.
@@minearslan8511 Dave has a Masters degree in both Medicine and Science in Sport & Exercise AND Human Nutrition. He is more informed then almost anybody on the topic.
@@minearslan8511 Why wouldn't they be confident if all they do is talking about their own experiences and habbits? Plus Dave MacLeod has a master of science in nutrition
@@minearslan8511There’s nothing wrong with saying meat makes you strong, it does. Any solid source of protein will make you strong if you’re also working out. Doesn’t mean it’s the only thing you can eat to get that kind of result.
