This is what I like someone who does things and when they don't work out do it again and show and explain why and how to over come all these little tips make the difference well done excellent video
Looking great Barry. Pulling that rock shaft back with the sling is really important. I’ve taken the cover off my ‘little’ 885 and when that shaft drops it’s not easy to get it back in the cup. I ended up using some large threaded bar (about 3/4) to pull it all back via the cover plate holes! Great work and keep up the good work, it’s really helpful.
Hi Nat, hopefully with a bit of forward planning I can cover most of the situations, one I didn't recon on was the weight of the other lift arm wanting to rotate the shaft out of the cup as well, hence the block under the lift arm. We get there in the end. fingers crossed it doesn't leak when we put the oil back in. many thanks Barry
I recon you've done a better job at restoring that 990 than the ones they show at the db tractor museum 😂 Looking good. Hope to finish mine soon, just need to do 2 more wheels on one side and another mudguard then onto the wiring. Think I'm just going to replace the front tyres to finish the tractor off. I've had a look at the guy who you told me about, and I think I might buy off them. Thanks
Hi Alex, they are good prices and quick delivery, many thanks for the kind words, I'm about to start the wiring in a couple of days, stay tuned. many thanks Barry
Hi Jimmy, sorry for the delay, I've just got back from holiday and couldn't log into youtube while away. when you say it won't work, whats happening when you pull it, does the handle stop up in a lock position or does it just drop back down? or somnething else? many thanks, pleased your enjoying the video's. Barry
Hi Barry, I have only ever used silicone sealant on this joint and never had a leak. I would only extrude a 3mm continuous bead on one face only as you risk trapping air if the two beads you have used make a pocket, then this pocket of air blows the sealant out of the joint when you bolt it up.
Great work Barry, a really good idea using the weight to hold the Rockshaft in place. Do you have to replace the Crankshaft seal? and if so will you be videoing it to show how to split the Tractor
Hi Terry, not sure yet, I need to get in there with an endoscope and have a look to see where the drip is coming from, but rest assured if the tractor has to be split I will be videoing it, as I missed that the first time round. Many thanks Barry
Hi Marshall, it's an old raiway jack, 5 ton, for lifting rails and wagons back on to the track, when I gt it it was all rusty and the reverse cover was damaged so I gave it some TLC and hammerite paint, brought it up a treat. many thanks Barry
Buna Barry teas ruga frumos . Am si eu un asemenea tractor si am o problema la partea de ridicare tiranți .Cu motorul pornit ridica tiranți da nu mai coboara raman sus . Ai cumva idee care ar fi cauza ? Multumesc fumos
Bună Smokey, cred că trebuie să resetați grupul de trei ajustări pentru a vă asigura că totul este acolo unde trebuie, dacă asta nu se rezolvă, este posibil să aveți o supapă de reținere uzată sau lipicioasă în pieptul supapei în sine. Urmăriți acest videoclip pentru ajustările grupului trei Sper că acest lucru vă ajută Barry
Great job as always Barry. I worked on the that "donkey's dick" as you called it and replaced the piston seals when I had mine apart but that was over 10 years ago now so I'm a bit sketchy on the what I did - but in theory I guess there should be very little oil getting past the seals and into that front part of the housing where you've just re-sealed. Is there some sort of oil return channel that goes back from there for oil that does get ahead of the piston? All looking pristine and shaming me into tackling all the rust on mine.
Hi Andy, yes theres an oil return from the back of the piston, if you pop to my community tab from one month ago I posted an image of the rear of the lift cylinder and piston, just below the two retaining bolts theres two small holes which free flow oil back to the axle, the one below that is an oil feed from the bypass valve to lub the rear end on the piston and donkey's didler, your right there should be little if no oil passing the seal and backup washer but if it does it will return to the axle that oil feed comes from the bypass valve and lubs the PTO, lift cylinder, gearbox and clutch stop brake. and as all pipes are open , is very low pressure.
@@manfromthemist1958 Ah thanks for pointing me at the picture - don't remember seeing those holes there when I worked on it. I had a big problem created by myself when I snapped off the bleed nipple at the back of the piston housing and had to drill that out and re-tap. Looking at the picture there are three holes and also quite high up so I guess that area could fill up quite high with oil before it returns so I had always thought there may only be a bit of oil at the bottom but not if the holes are that high. Anyway many thanks for taking the time to reply and onwards and upwards to the next set of jobs. I just got the first outing on mine for the year with my boat last week and sure enough another schoolboy error from me was leaving the 3 point hitch on the lift latch all winter - forgot to drop it last time I used it last summer. That meant the spool valve in valve chest was sitting for 9 months pressed up and sure enough it is now totally stuck and no hydraulics. I can see in the inspection hole for the bypass and hold valve that the spool valve is stuck up and won't budge so I'm going to have to strip it out and free it up. Deep joy. Lesson for anyone reading this not to leave the arms up on the lift latch for months on end!
Cheers Andy, I think the book says theres about 2 pints of oil in the rear end, I only got a little bit out, and there doesn't appear to be enough room for a couple of pints, just had a thought, if the piston is fuly forward then there would be. many thanks Barry
