Cheers Colman, some of the problems are after market parts that just don't cut it. I busy checking the rocker gasket today as I found some oil on the side of the block again. many thanks Barry
Hi Barry. The first time I put a new clutch in my 1210 I had to split it 3 times. The cone on the replacement disc for my pto was slightly longer and I did not notice. It was just enough that it would not allow the clutch to disengage. Needless to say I got good at splitting the tractors if nothing else. Once I got the right size disc it worked perfect. I have done quite a few since then but I will never forget the first one! Thank you for all your videos! I am constantly learning from you. Best of luck with getting everything sealed up!
many thanks Robert, some of those after market parts can be a challenge, I found the hydraulic filter snout to be 1/8" sort on my filter and spent two days trying to get it to fit, it's something you just don't expect at first, now I check everything. many thanks Barry
That's quite a snagging list Barry, it wouldn't be a David Brown without the odd oil leak! In the apprentice training school at DBT they had a mock up board of all the tractor electrical components that we had to wire up and the instructor would then connect the battery and test that every switch, light, gauge etc worked correctly as part of the electrical module. Good luck going forward
Hi Barry, i like the way you go about things, and come back to them and make sure theybare still OK. Please don't skip the videos of the last stuff. Watching it come together is so satisfying! I have to do the electrics and wiring on my 990 implematic, so i would like to see how you go about yours! Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰🔧🚜
Cheers OKHansen, I'm so pleased your still enjoying the video's. I should be getting to the wiring in a couple of weeks, need the dash sorted so i can mount the ignition swtich. many thanks Barry
HI Barry - I can't believe how sanguine you are about splitting the tractor and stripping out a final drive - probably two of the hardest jobs on the entire thing. At least the splitting will be easier so soon after having it apart - I think when I split mine it was the first time in about 30 years or more and it was quite a battle to open up the gap. When I changed the brake shoes I tied up the diff lock with wire which snapped and dumped the diff lock into the housing and I needed to get it back under cover in a hurry so I put the final drive back on without it. Gave me time to knock up the tool they have in the manual for pushing it back into place. As I said before I emptied my swear box just before that job as you need to be a three-armed gibbon to get it back in, but the tool is quite easy to make up and it works with patience and ideally a willing helper. All my wiring was pretty nasty so made my own loom with the circuit diagram in the user manual. If you are putting new terminals on the wires I recommend using crimp terminals that have heat shrink on them as they give really strong connections - much better than standard crimp terminals with the normal plastic covers. Great to hear the arms have held all this time - so the hold valve works perfectly and no leaks on the seals on the ram piston. Dashboard looks in good condition. I had a few Dynamo issues on mine so whilst I had it apart I cut a new hole and put in a volt-meter so I can always see whether I'm charging the battery and I really like this addition as it gives me good visual feedback on whether the battery is being charged at whatever revs I'm in. Great job as usual, keep it going.
Cheers Andy, well as I keep saying "it's only nuts and bolts", lol, and as you say at least I know it's all clean and freshly put together, so shouldn't be a right pain. if you happen to have a photo of your dash with the volt meter in would you please send it to manfromthemist@gmail.com, so I can get a look, was thinking about an oil pressure gauge just to keep an eye on it as it could be to late by the time you see the light on. when I took mine to bits it was obvious that someone had been in there recently and not in a good way, I've heard of people having to use 4" square post to knock the final drive off as they were so stuck, as I say mine where finger tight and damaged thanks for all the tips now just waiting for a weather window, many thanks Barry
My tractor lives 300 miles from me near the sea so will get a picture of the Volt meter next time I'm there. On my dash there was a smaller blanking plug on the right side I remember and I just enlarged it to a standard 52mm diameter and put in a classic car illuminated Volt gauge. Positive wire is just off the input to the voltage regulator under the dash as I remember -as the 12V comes back there off the mounting point on the starter motor (which in turn goes to the fat lead on the +ve of the battery). I really like the addition as I can always see the state of charge at rest and charging when running as a weak battery is a killer as they need a lot of cranking juice.@@manfromthemist1958
Great video for showing us that things don't just slip together without a bit off work. Personally I would off loved to see a video on how you make the tin work ready for painting. Was TRYING to do my DB 1212 dash last year.
Barry, I'm feeling your pain, cranksheft seal and final drive problems, better now than later on! I certainly do know where Reed Raa is - my dad was born there. I hope you get the problems sorted out so you can get out and about on the DB. Had the Fergy half shafts out to change the seals, brakes absolutely covered in oil, set up the end float and fitted new brake shoes, went to start it to test the brakes to find the fuel tap leaking like a sieve. All the best, keep them coming.
Cheers Ken, the way I try to look at it is, If I wasn't messing with tractors Debs would have me decorating! and I hate decorating! So oil to the elbows sounds good to me. are you going to repair or replace the fuel tap? I'm sure Lance has a good video on repairing one and you can get all the bits from the old TE20 people. anyway it keeps us out of mischief. many thanks Ken Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Kit is already on order, I've watched Lance's video, looks straight forward, next job full oil change for engine and transmission. Cheers
Oil leaks yuk, DAVID BROWNS don't leak oil they just mark there territory 😀The throttle linkage appears to be the hand/foot control option. The spring allows the foot throttle to operate with out affecting the hand lever. The hand lever only throttle would have the cable attached directly to the lever with the ball joint. I like your positive attitude on taking things back apart.
Hi Brad, thanks for that, just one more thing that leads me to believe the previous owner didn't have a clue when he put this poor old girl back together, there's lots of mismatched parts such as the stabiliser bracket on the off side final drive is from an 880. but thats a very helpfull piece of info many thanks Barry
If it all went together perfectly with no issues it would be too easy and you wouldn’t learn. I reckon I do every job twice before it’s right. Like Shane, I used Hylomar on the lift latch cover - took me two goes because I didn’t read the instructions on the tube the first time. Been ok ever since though. Also the hydraulic sump gasket - tried a thick paper gasket the first time which leaked so I found a thick rubber gasket from another supplier and that sorted it. Brake return springs I got from Barclay. Keep the videos coming!
Hi David, I know what you mean about doing jobs twice, and your right we always learn more from our mistakes or as I like to say alternative forms of correctness, its good to hear other peoples experiences as well, i don't think anyone wins them all first time. many thanks David Barry
Hi Paul, the paint I've got is Tractol 329 orchid white, I would have to look in my records to see who supplied it, but painting will be coming in the next few month, once it warms ups. many thanks Barry
Barry, watched all your videos. Really enjoyed the series so far. Can't wait to see the finished project. Good luck with the tin and wiring. From a david brown enthusiast in ireland.
Cheers JohnPaul, so pleased your enjoying the series, its always nice to more like minded people poping in to see us, all hints tips and advice welcome, because your not only helping me, but everyone who reads them as well. many thanks Barry
Hi Barry, Some further dashboard info, in the parts book 629 printed in 1969 there are 3 part nu bers for the dash depending when the tractor was made. My machine is in the middle range of production and is attached to the tank by 5 screws, later tractors after number 813397 have a different dash attached by 4 screws. Hence your odd screw and hole count. The screws are supposed to be, 2BA x 3/8". Hope this is useful.
many thanks for that, it all helps to clarify the differences, a quick question for you, does your dash sides fit snuggly to the tank at the bottom edges? mine has a gap of about 3/4" both sides, however when i pull them in with screws it gives a better clearence to the throttle shaft at the base many thanks Barry
Hi Barry, The throttle linkage you showed is the same as my 990 selectamatic which is fitted with factory the optional foot throttle, so it's not an after market repair job The spring system allows the 2 mechanisms to use the same rod without interfering with each other.
Hi Barry that is the correct set up on the Hand throttle with the spring when a foot throttle is in place . Can you start the wiring I have 880 and a 950 to sort out need to copy you hurry 😂😂 thanks Gary
Hi Gary, sorry for the delay, I will be starting the wiring soon, thanks for the info re the throttle, very helpfull I'll drop you a message when I've got the video comig out, hopefully not to long many thanks Barry
I don't like oil leaks either. However, from what I've heard, it wouldn't be a David Brown if it didn't leak a little bit 🙂 I used a Hylomar blue equivalent for those machined faces between the left hand cover and the casting. No leaks there for me. I can't remember if you've already videoed removing the steering shaft, but if you haven't I'd like to see that.
Hi Shane, I've got some hylomar blue I'll give it a go in the next couple of days and see if it works, thats if it stops raining here, all the fields and roads around us are flooded tonight and the farmers are loosing lambs with the wet and cold like there's no tomorrow. The steering column, was completely resto'd, new balls etc before I began the video series, one of those " I wish I had" moments, however I'll be videoing taking the lot off again to split the tractor again, I'm hoping it something stupid like I forgot to seal the carrier to the block. many thanks Barry
G Day Barry, I cant recall now but did you soak the rope seal in engine oil for a few days before fitting them? I think that if restoring tractors you can expect a few troubles, I have them that's for sure, the main thing is that you work through them and don't get disheartened with the job. It can give you the shits a bit though.
G Day Lance, no it was a while ago, yeh it got soaked for over a week and put in using thumbs and hammer shanks, as i say i broke the first carrier, but then I cant remember if i sealed it to the block, probs haven't, nevermind it gives me an oppertunity for another video, but i will investigate with the endoscope first to see whats going on. I need to get it outside in day light to look at it, you cant see jack shit in the garage. many thanks Barry
Oh no one step forward 2 steps back but you seem relaxed about it all id have filled up the swear box lol. Your get it right i personally think you done it on purpose so you dont end up decorating lol. Maybe Ron greet in Devon will have that ball attachment you need. I get my grease nipples from patrick at fergiland hes a top man. My 880 has a green light for oil pressure and a oil pressure guage occasionally if im giving the boy full throttle the light will flicker on/off but guage stays put so i tend to go by oil gauge im not sure if its something someone put on. My oil bath i make my own gasket with thick paper and a gentle smearing of silicone literally a smearing never ever leaked i did buy a new gasket from David Brown parts company it came as i thick rubber gasket which i tend to use to make new gaskets it seems a bit to thick for my liking. Chin up barry us is all there with you
Hi Jon, I'm working on an overdraft for the swear box, it's all good content for the Christmas special, my little bleeper will get some stick. I was thinking of putting a oil gauge in the dash and I've also got a buzzer that I can wire intot he same circuit so it give a auditable warning, i know none of them had this but it could just give those vital seconds jump on a problem. I did make the gasket from .4mm paper but I only put a bit of grease on it, I think next itme it'll get some wellseal on and see if that stops it. I'm just pleased I've got a little more room to do stuff indoors now even if it makes video work just that little harder. many thanks Barry
hey Barry realy like the channel watched most of your videos naw. do you have any plans on fitting a power beyond block? im looking to mount a front loader on my 990 but unsure about the plumbing
Hi Beiste unfortunately I won't be fitting a front end loader to this one, don't think I've seen other video's of people fitting them on YT either, sorry couldn't help you this time many thanks Barry
The dash is a pretty sloppy fit to the tank, the side screws make a big difference to the shape and fit up. New clips and self tapping screws help emencely. The 3/4" is not unusual. Try and get hold of DB document TP 627 1969 the parts book. If you can't I can send a DVD copy if you let me have your address.
cheers William, to save you time and money could you zip the contents of the disc and email me the zip file to manfromthemist@gmail.com, if not please drop me an email and I'll get my home address over to you. many thanks Barry
Hi Barry. I see your starting to do the tinwork. I've just fi ished my dashboard too 😂 Wondering where you bought your final drive inspection plate holding bolts from? Thanks. Also check out the video I've uploaded onto the channel showing the 990 restoration so far...
Hi Marshall, I think it had something to do with the previous owner running it with four bolts in the final drives and ovaling the seal carriers, as you say they are heffty bits of steel. cheers Marshall Barry
