Awesome cabinets. I have a suggestion though to help manufacture better bass. I see you are using egg crate foam to dampen the cabinets. That’s a no no. Foam kills bass. Get some fiberglass insulation (r11, r12, or r13) and staple it every 4” down to 1” thick and cover all sides accept the baffle. You will hear a drastic improvement in your bass.
The frequency response is not satisfactory. The high frequency of the driver unit is exceptionally strong compared to the low frequency, so I should put it in the TQWT box that is efficient for low sound amplification.
I had a similar problem with Monacor SPX-200WP speakers. I used a parallel notch circuit from 1kHz to 6.5kHz, with 6dB attenuation. TQWT not a better solution, but one of the options.
@@philwoodcraft I had the same problem with the (somewhat) new SB 8" whizzer cone full range. I used a TQWT and an active crossover, -3db of baffle step correction and -2db high shelf from 3.8khz and above. With 10 degree off listening position, the sound is much improved.
Hi there. Great video! I have watched some of your videos. You do amazing work. I have build a couple of speakers my self but no longer have those tools necessarily for the job. Do you do any custom work? Thanks.
Hey, I have watched all your videos. Just built a 8in Fostex Transmission line set that sound awesome. If you could recommend just 1 out of all of your builds to recommend what would it be? Which pair really blew your mind when you were listening to them?
hi I have pair of mark audio 10P full range but this sounds a lot better than mine the high-frequency is better, could you play some vocals like Diana krall, but i read that the bigger ones sound better
That's right. This unit I used has a high-pitched decibel. On the other hand, the ability of the enclosure is important because of the lack of low-pitched volume.
hi what does the enclosure have to have you listened to the next model up from that it is meant to be better and what valve are you using it made all the differance
Very good as always, great job! What technique do you use to find the right thickness of the support base for the speaker, "the hollow" since the thickness of the tip of the cutter is 6mm? Do you move the guide tip every 5-6mm until it reaches the size of the basket? obviously if you exceed the measurement this will be cut when you make the central hole to let the speaker in. Thank you. :)
What do you mean by wide tip? more than 6mm? by doing so then you find yourself with the measures? your template has the required points, if you don't take a 6mm tip you can't find the measurements, or am I wrong? By the way, how is your template attached to the milling machine? the 4 holes are not on the template, did you glue it? If so, what glue did you use? Or did you pierce the template and put some screws? Sorry for too many questions, but I'm learning :) Thanks.
Hi friend, what size do you use for screws? 3x30mm or what? is it a problem if the screw pierces the wood and comes out on the other side inside the wooden box? better to take them shorter? thank you!
