DCC Bus Wiring at Chadwick Model Railway | 24. 

Charlie you are the best on the internet- love the fact you leave your mistakes in- that’s the way we beginners learn we are not idiots

My experience over 28 years modeling in N scale began in 1989 with DC blocks and such. Moved over to Digitrax DCC in 1996, and now in the last year changing over to an HO layout with sound locos, JMRI train control with detection, signaling, remote turnout controls, etc., has taught me from the beginning to consider what you might want in the future with great success. I also went with screw terminals on all boards (Digitrax DCS100, BDL168, SE8c and PM42) from Accu-Lites & Snaps for Tortoise turnout machines in the changeover to HO. Cheers from USA.

I would love to take on an apprenticeship under this man. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

Great video. Thanks. The break in the ring bus (shown at 14:50) is a great tip.

I am very impressed by the inclusion of aspects that do not go to plan! You are showing your audience real life, not just perfection. This gives great encouragement to beginners in the hobby, especially when you explain what went wrong. I find your videos both informative and easy to watch. Thank you Charlie.

An excellent tutorial. I might have to watch the video several times before my dementure driven brain latches on to common sense but I have the time to do that. I started building my first OO model railway in August 2016. I now have have a 9' x 3' 6" board, which is comprised of 12mm thick external ply and framed and supported with lengths of planed 2" x 2" scotts pine. I covered the whole surface with 4mm rubber- like pads (quite exepensive). Over the two odd years, I have purchased seventeen steam locomotives, of varying shapes, sizes and colours; and seventeen diesel locomotives. Most of the buildings on the layout are from Metcalf and two other manufacturerers; all of which, I have built myself. As I constructed the buildings, I decided to fit lighting insiside all buildings, station platforms and street lighting. I still have sixteen point motors to fit, scenery to arrange and dozens of droppers to solder. A long way to go yet but it is a most enjoyable journey. Then, I will convert the lot to DCC. I already have three separate busses, one for DC, one for DCC and one for Lighting, etc. I have the NCE DCC kit with a 5 amp controller. I thouroughly enjoy your videos because, my brain struggles to absorb written information. Thank you, Alan Parsons.

You are so very right about cuting the wire on the switch machine. I to have ruined a good pair of track cutting pliers many years ago.

Going through your Chanel from start to finish when I can wrestle the tv controls from my wife. Very informative and just what I need on a snowy night in Weardale. Old boards out, new boards in. I just need to get my head around DCC electrics. Yeh, two wires..........right. Now, onwards and upwards and hopefully do it right this time. 🤪🤔 Keep up the good work. I’m addicted now.

I know this is 5 years old, but on the point at the start. Using a rotary tool to cut the wire also sends little metal splinters everywhere as the cut from a rotary tool abrades the metal, like sanding or anything else. Too easy to get a metal splinter in some part of your body. Cutters are the way to do it, it is what they are designed for. Thanks for the great videos, Charlie. I really enjoy watching these and learn something new every time I watch.

Hi Charlie, Decided recently to have a go at building a model railway. Been scouring the web for info as the last time I touched a model train was back in the 70’s. Decided that a DCC system might be the way to go, then found several different videos on how to do the wiring, but none with any particular explanation on why. Then I found your site. Thanks so much for the explanations on wiring and the excellent video of how to do it and the whys and wherefors. I have spent hours over the last few days viewing your videos and now feel a lot more confident that I might be able to get this all together. Don’t have masses of room, so looking at a 8 x 4 N gauge layout, should hopefully keep me busy for the next year or so. Once again, thank you from an ex-pat, now living in Florida.

The reason we use solid core wire is not because it doesn't need to move around (in fact not all stranded core wire is meant to be moved around), it is because AC current travels through the center of the single wire, while DC current travels on the outside surface of the wire. So if you have AC it is best to have a single thick wire and if you have DC it is best if you have many wires that increases the actual surface that the DC current can travel on. That's why, having thicker or larger gauge vehicle jumper cables is better to pass, as much current to the dead battery. While with a battery charger, only needs to be a smaller gauge to charge the battery over time.

God bless you, Sir! After four years of wondering if you wire the "loop" or not, you have come to my rescue and EXPLAINED why you don't. It's so simple! No one I have spoken to, including my "friends" at our local railway museum layout, in all that time said that the signal coming from two different directions could, or will, confuse the locomotive's decoder! Now I can start wiring my layout! My scenery is nearly completed. I had to do something to keep me from going crazy all these years! I'm now a subscriber to your channel! Thank you!

Thanks Charlie. I will read up on you link. The story behind the wiring is I ordered way too much in the first place and the Courier left it outdoors in the pouring rain so the cardboard reels became sodden. Maplins replaced the whole batch without question and didn’t want the rain damaged reels to be sent back so I have loads of it. Thanks again and please keep up the excellent work. It’s just a shame your not my next door neighbour.!

Great video. I love soldering but hate it under a baseboard.

I like how you don't put a bunch of "random" edits/cuts in you show the entire proccess

Very useful. Like the idea of the separate bus for track power and point motors.

As an electronics engineer, well, I hadn't thought about this for model train railways before, but... makes perfect sense that you should cut the ring on DCC.

Thanks a lot Charly for taking time, to replace these videos to explain the DCC rules to beginners. Hope you are not in trouble with your "government", due to the many times it takes. Greetings from Hannover / Germany

I found it extremely interesting and valuable for elderly newcomers to model railroading. All this made with a kind, humble, full of humor though very precise and pertinent style. A nice and enjoyable moment shared with you sir. Thank you from the French side of the channel and bonne année.

Excellent video , thanks Charlie , I'm just doing my first layout and this has helped me alot... luckily I live near the Gaugemaster store in Ford and the guys there are a real help too but this has showed me how to do it... I was going to do a ring main style so this advice has really helped me out...

Im new ( returning after 40 years ) to DCC railway and VERY new to your channel. I find your videos interesting and informative. 1 point I would like to comment on is the breaking of the "ring main" into a "radial" circuit. As a retired electrician I have an issue with this. The comments about the problems with a DCC signal being affected by timing is (to me) a very valid one. HOWEVER! If your connecting at various points around the track, you have to be mindful of creating what is known as a 'Parallel Path'. Ie, you have broken the 'ring main' on the bus BUT your TRACK is still a ring main. So I would suggest that ideally there should also be isolation of the TRACK at the break in the 'ring main'. Otherwise your break in the 'ring main will become less effective or possibly negated entirely as the encoded signals from each side of the (now) 'radial circuit' can be bridged by the track itself. I.e.. the signal gets to each end of the 'radial' circuit, but can 'bypass' the new break in the original 'ring' circuit by travelling up the bus / feed wires from each end and then along the rails attached to each end of the two 'radials circuit'! I would suggest that to keep the signal completely clean, you would have to use insulated fishplates between the two 'ends' of the radial circuit?? I hope this makes sense? Lastly, in respect of DCC timing issues. I would ponder that It is possible that in a VERY large layout of having just 2 'radial circuits' that timing issues could still arise at the termination point of the end of each 'radial circuits. Because if the mismatch in timing of the DCC signal this could cause an error to be thrown up at that point I would therefore suggest that you break the areas down in to "zones / busses" each fed directly from the DCC controller (with isolated track at that point also) to minimise the DCC timing issues on larger circuits?? I DO hope this makes sense! ??? I need a brew and a chill after all that.!! Keep up the good work. LOVE your videos! Ian.

Right, So. I'm across the pond from you, so the millimeters stuff doesn't mean much to me, but all of your information is very valuable. I do understand electricity and how it's applied to model railroading, the information regarding the loop and cutting it was very informative. I make my living working on computers for building automation control and the notion that you cut the loop was a revelation. we never intentionally Loop the network, but occasionally it has happened accidentally and all the issues you put forward have occurred. Keep up the great work and I'll keep translating your language and measuring systems to the United States format. Thank You!

Excellent as always Charlie thanks. I finally understand why there needs to be a break in the ring wiring, so simple as soon as you mentioned the time lapse! Ian

Learned to solder in 7th grade and I really like to do it. We had to take "shop class" and one semester it was foundry, metal lathe, electrical, and iron working. Loved it!!! I am lucky that I don't have to worry about the frog as one of my engines is battery powered and the rest of the DCC engines have the "come along" aspect that will keep them running for about 8 seconds without power and this will get them over the switch points and I an use a much less expensive switch.

Very informative, clear and to the point. Particularly useful and interesting as just completing the wiring for 'Gort Station'. Great idea to have the point motors powered from a separate DCC power district to the track (ie in the event a loco runs onto the mouth of a closed point). Your videos are the most practical and best advise on the internet. Thank you

Many thanks Charlie great explanation of bus wires and how to do it... next job on my layout. Some great tips in your video, thanks for taking time to video it....

Hello Charlie, thank you for this video. I'll be watching it many times. I'm so glad for your hints, tips and willingness to show your errors. It really helps seeing a problem solved, and where it came from. A soldering video would be great if you're up for it. I do solder, but at a very uneducated level. Would be great to see your experience in practice. If anyone is interested, we've our Spring exhibition at Ludlow Racecourse on the 5th May - 10 to 4. Thanks again Charlie; looking forward to the next instalment.

I have watched loads of videos on this topic and yours', by far is the most clear and understandable. Great video.

Excellent vid. I'm about to wire my second layout so...thought I'd just check out Charlie's tips on bus wires. I will get some snap connectors. Thank you Sir!

Another great advice video, yes I did exactly what you said NOT to do, lessons learnt.Richard

Your Teaching Skills are first-class Charlie, I have been enjoying your videos for a few weeks now & I highly recommend them! Keep up the good work, Thank You, Tony

Great explanations regarding bus wires, districts and droppers. As you say it looks complicated but I agree, that once you have a clear idea of what you want to achieve, it really is quite straightforward. Thank you for all your efforts in passing on your knowledge to newcomers to the hobby like me.

Really enjoyed this especially the wiring process. One day I would love to do this but being in a small London flat one can dream. I have a background in electronics and computing so this appeals greatly. Keep up the great narration, explanation and video work.

Interesting video. I’m learning how to wire a DC layout (don’t want to and can’t afford DCC). Many of the bus wire / dropper principles seem to apply. Portions of track being isolated with toggle switches and insulated fishplates, for example a siding.

A soldering video would be fantastic Charlie hope you get enough support to do it your videos are amazing 👌

ATM I can't solder to save my life, so I'd find a masterclass useful. Also Mimic Panels.

Another great and informative video, thank you. I have watched quite a few videos about DCC and 'bus wires' and like others, now understand why it isn't a loop, which makes sense now. Still not 100% sure about the size of wire to use for the bus wires and the dropper wires, so will definitely keep this video to hand for reference. Good job Charlie!

Oh Thak You so much. That was most educative, but a bit confusing as I have no DCC to play with. Hoping to invest in a DCC system in the ear future. I like your style of explanation easy and refreshing. I wll add a WOW to my appreciation. Faizal from Sri Lanka

Great video!!!! I will be returning to this video several times.........

And another fan from The Netherlands here ! Great vids !

Simply brilliant wiring I'm dreading when I do my layout as it don't go in a circle but love it I'm learning so much thank u

Excellent. Thank you for your time Charlie. Appreciated. Peter

Really great video Charlie, thanks for sharing your experience. I am new to this and am building a layout for my son high up around his room on a perspex shelf ;-). I have probably bitten off more than I can chew but it is good fun and learning a lot about DCC. I had already decided to use the 2.5mm2 single core wire from left over mains cabling as it will be a fixed bus hidden in a grove in the supporting wooden rail that holds the perspex up so I am leased that you showed it as an option. I couldn't make my mind up about closed loop or open for the bus but have decided to leave it as open. I am surprised that closed loop timing issues cause a problem as I would have thought it would be nanoseconds difference in the signal arriving from both directions but I think it best to leave it open.

Great studio background system , and many thanks for the tutorial on the bus system 👍

Super and clear presentation

Good to know about not making the bus as a ring main.Thanks Charlie.

Another great bit of tuition from you Charlie and all very well expanded with various options if needed to do things in wiring and attachments to one's system of control. Many issues would be that I have collected (maybe too many) a lot of locos that are DC and only about 20 of them are DCC Ready. I would need to have a wired layout mainly for DC movement, but also have the ability to run DCC via my Dynamis Units while keeping my points operations separate by either hand or toggle switches. Maybe that could be another piece of filming to do if anyone else wishes to have a simple dual control layout.

That us such an excellent video. Thank you John aka N Quay Harbour

Neat job Charlie 👍 Yes do a soldering how to do please 😁 Fridays are always good knowing you’ve done an update 😊 Have a good weekend see ya next week Stevie

Oh dear! Another idea for joining wires. Use insulated crimps. Now, there is a cost, you do ideally need a decent set of ratchet crimping pliers. They ensure the correct pressure is applied. But it is very fast, gives very good joints and there is no soldering. It is in fact one of the only two permitted ways of joining inaccessible mains cables in the UK. (Screw junction boxes are required to be accessible so that the screw tightness can be readily checked). Ideally get yourself an automatic wire stripper - so much faster, easier and more reliable than hand stripping with side cutters. Bare a short end of each wire, insert into the insulated crimp and squeeze shut with the pliers. Basically you get a cold weld. Red insulated crimps are the smallest size, then blue and then yellow. The yellow ones are probably too big for this application. Search 'crimps' and 'crimping tools' on Google for much more info. BobUK.

Hi Charlie, Damage to Xuron cutters, used Dremil to cut the piano wire , did not melt the plastic, just trouble getting the right length. Had to purchase more wire. Not a lot of use for piano wire in Southwest Australia!! Thanks for these very informative videos, and will keep watching your channel for more advice.Richard

I also use Digitrax but I use DPDT Centre off switches to feed my Tortoise motors, This way I can see what direction the point is set to, by looking at the switch lever, otherwise it would mean LED's on the control board to indicate which way the point is set to go.

Thanks Charlie…..sorry it’s a bit late. I’ve been thinking of going DCC but was confused how the bus wire worked. I got the droppers part but wasn’t sure where the bus wire started and stopped! I know now😀

Great video Charlie. Keep up the great work. Electronics always gives me a headache. Can never figure it out. Also. Nice to see that even you can make a mistake. But a great come back.

Thank you for these technical and educational videos. I would like to see a video about soldering! Greetz from Holland!

Hi Charlie, nice video very informative. I’m not so sure about breaking the bus wire ring though, when researching my layout I looked into the subject and basically our rails are also acting as a bus wire ring. The way around that is to put 2 plastic rail joiners at the same place (electrically) where you break the bus wire ring. However the timing of the signal shouldn’t be affected in the way it was described to you because it’s artificial ac current (bi-polar dc) and the decoder needs to receive the whole packet of the signal, electricity flows close to the speed of light and DCC works in micro seconds not nano seconds.

Little snap connectors are called Scotch Locks

I have seen most if not all your videos now over the last 3 weeks and have now subscribed to your channel, as I have found them helpful, I am only looking at doing a 4 x 8 layout but would like to ask if you can do a video on transformers, as I am not able to find any info which gives 5amp at 15 volt. Thank you for the help that you have given me with your videos Charlie.

I use posi-tap connectors to connect the droppers to the bus they are more expensive than snap connectors but are quicker and more reliable.

Wire is something with one conductor, for example the blue OR the brown. A cable has multiple conductors, for example the grey twin and earth cable, or the black and red cable.

Soldering lesson would be appeciated!!

Excellent video. Thanks

Great how to Charlie, thanks very much for sharing! Cheers, Dan

A very nice Video with a Lot of helpfully tipps - thank you for your great work. Greets lui

as a retired auto electrician I find using scotch locks are very hit and miss as they do corrode in the air and cause all manner of faults I was forever removing them and soldering instead as some time the bridge which cuts through the wire and can miss the centre core and just rub up against it so causing a poor connection I have removed hundreds of them with that fault. I find soldering the best foolproof method thought I would let you know all the best john from rugby.

I would find it useful if you could do a video in the future on soldering, particularly on how you solder the dropper wire to the bus wire from underneath the baseboard if your baseboard is not capable of being lifted on its side. Great educational videos.

Fantastic and educational video Charlie and thank you for raising the question of "Do I or don't I" complete the ring on the DCC Bus, something I've been wondering about for a while now but had decided to terminate it at the drop down section at the double doors and of course the track will be insulate at the cut sections on both drop down sections. And thanks to this video I've decided to cut the main Bus at intervals and connect with choc blocks so I can systematically pinpoint a short should it occur, fabulous. Oh and I was also a little worried about the size of my dropper wires but you put my at rest for that as well, so I'm a happy chappie this morning :0) Have a great weekend Charlie and thanks again. Mark One last thing, if doing a soldering video could you if possible include a part of soldering track to vero board, mine is a bit messy and I could do with some tips for when I come to the main top section of the layout.

I can't stress this enough thank you for this and everything

The reason you do not want to create a circle is latency. DCC is a simple data network. Latency is caused by the time it takes data to travel between the sender and receiver. Being the signal is sent around the circle, the signal will go into different directions around the circle. The sender that is closer will get to the receiver sooner then the same signal that has to travel farther causing the latency. By your not having a circle the receiver only gets one signal from the sender to process and not the same signal that took longer or had the latency issue.

Charlie health and safty warning for the poor man hanging on for dear life on your shunter, He has requested a hard hat :-) Love the video and it will help me in my dcc layout

Worked in pontoons. I like to uae something we used on them and it's a zip tie which has a hole in the end for a screw to attach to the board. Little more expensive but same result. You don't need to buy the sticky pad holder and zip tie when these come all in 1.

Nice videos, yes please for a soldering video.

Great video. You are correct. You should not have your Bus as a ring.

u could out one end in cold water to keep the heat from building up

You CAN use a dremmel to cut point motor drive arms. You just have to be fast and careful with it. done it plenty of times myself without any issues

Hi Charlie, Excellent Video, BUT I would NEVER use Scochtlok Connectors on Model Railway, they are Notorious for failing after a few years of use + Using them Derates the Cable

I did not get on with snap connections, due to access working under base board, gone back to choc block connections, also easily to find faults and fix.Richard

Honestly my main problem with soldering is waiting for the iron to heat up, and no matter how hard I try I inevitably cook my pinky. it’s a bit more of a hassle for repairs too. I’ll do it if I need to though, nothing beats the size or strength.

Hi Charlie, in respect of your previous video about stabbing your thumb. I always use a locking pliers to hold the pin just above the track, you can then cut with confidence. The pin won't fly anywhere.. regards JC

The reason solid wire is used in a house AC and multi stand wire in used for DC is AC current runs thru the center of the wire hence one large wire and DC current runs on the outside of wire hence many small wires.

Superb video, very informative - thanks!

Yes please for a soldering video

New sub from 🇩🇰great video you made there mate👍

Charlie, here is a list of Digitrax items as you requested. Mobile, Decoder, super Chief super premium DCC Starter set, DS54, LT1, DH126D, PR3 XTRA, LNC162, LNCMK, LNCCMC1, UP5, DS64. THIS IS A LIST OF ITEMS WITH A BOOK THAT CAME WITH THE EACH ITEM. Bob

Please do a video on soldering. Regards Stanley

Great video Charlie, Now I understand how your feeds are wired where your cab bus (Loconet) goes directly to your point controller and I can see how you avoid the Hand of God when you enter an incorrectly set point. On my system the cab bus does not go to the point controllers as they use track power for their data so I wire them to a separate power district. This is the trouble when we try to show how we wire things as all systems are slightly different. Yours being all Digitrax and mine being a mixture of NCE, Merg and other bespoke items that I have cobbled together. But I found it very interresting to see how the Digitrax system works. .........John

I know my reply is a bit late, BUT you mention the signals for the decoder in the loco as getting echo signals when using a ring main type feed, What are your thoughts regarding the fact that this can still happen when not using a ring main, but can still receive echo signals from the adjoining rails from other droppers.

Do you share links? I am interested in the shoe lace ferral & crimping tool, to use in keeping strands of wire tightly together. I use a wire length measuring meter to check remaining length of wire on spools! The stranded wire frays into a mess, keeping it tight to begin with will help preventing getting poked by the individual strands! Great see how to buss wire track! Best Regards.

Very logical :) thanks for sharing :)

Only if you wank around. Try using a pair of pliers to hold on to the piano wire and off it comes with a dremel. Fingers burnt not. I have 22 points using slowmo&soldenoid motors at the moment,all have piano wire control of movement of swich blades,no shorts as well . I don't use insulated rail joiners as well on my peco all metal points,you can work that out as well as prep. All rail have dropers as well.

Great video, especially the part about why the bus shouldn't be a circuit, but have a gap. At about 21 minutes you talk about the Digitrax BDL 168, and what to do if you're not into block detection. Could you follow up on your setup and show how to wire up the BDL 168 if you want to get into block detection? Currently got just a basic JMRI controlled DCC layout; no Loconet, etc, and looking at where to go from there.

half hour on soldering yes please !!

Cheers Charlie, good video. It helps clear some of the fog of wiring. Geoff

I'm surprised you don't get rsi pressing buttons to do a simple shunt manoeuvre ! I think I would favour a board with momentary push buttons on a small panel displaying the layout to change the points, nevertheless a good video for those who want to do it your way.

Do you make an occasional wrap of the two bus wires? I have heard that it reduces the interface of the DCC signal. I’ve also heard about making a termination with a capacitor and resistor at the ends of long bus runs. What is your thoughts on this? I like your advice about not soldering to the rail joints. I’ve had the best luck soldering to the rail web. Once the rail is weathered, and the ballast is spread, then the wire never shows. On your topic of splitting the bus on a circular track plan, it’s good advice. For the viewers, don’t forget to cut your rail and install insulated rail joints at the same location. If this is not done, then it would be electrically the same as having a continuous bus.

Hi Charlie. . .Brilliant straightforward guides so far. Are you able to do a tutorial on (or have you already done one) adding ballast. I'm having a DCC Custom board made with the tracks all laid, but one of the first jobs will be to ballast it. Your thoughts are welcome !!!

Hello Charlie, great video as always and very informative with some great techniques. I think it is essential to be able to solder for modelling and why people don't want to try amazes me, as in most cases, 99% of things people do on their layouts they have never done before, it’s all a learning curve. I am a little concerned with the wiring, have you considered Voltage Drop and Impedance? I am not too sure on your length of "Bus Wire" but 5 amp flex is not enough for a 5 amp system over a distance cable/flex will lose voltage. This can be calculated through the basics of "Voltage Drop Law" which is Vdrop = IR. I find it is always best to double the amperage rating of the cable/flex for longer distances, otherwise you increase the chance of Voltage Drop. For example, a 20AWG (0.5mm thick) at a distance of 5 meters with 15 volts and 5 amps could see a voltage drop of 11% but using a 14AWG (twin and earth type cable 1.5mm) with the same distance, voltage and amperage would see a drop of 2.7%. The golden rule for Voltage Drop is maximum of 3% albeit more towards household wiring but considering DCC it should be more robust. There is a plethora of factors to consider; rail causes resistance; Nickel Silver is 19x more resistant than copper, the type of wire is important; copper being the best for conductance and reduced Voltage Drop and there are many more factors. There have also been cases where impendence has caused loss of control above certain speeds as some motors and decoders have increased sensitivity over waveform distortion. It could be even worse if you added devices to the "Bus Wire" for DCC Signal/Power but thankfully LocoNET covers that. So, bearing that in mind; from Rail to the "Bus Wire" a 2-3 amp wire/flex would suffice but a "Bus Wire" over a distance, connecting to many droppers, etc would need a thicker gauge and higher amperage rated cable/flex. In terms of Digitrax a 3 amp wire from the Rail to the BDL168 (dependant on distance of the cable/flex and length of track) would suffice, this reduces impedance, considers “double heading”, coach lighting and sound locomotives, only then requiring a higher gauge/amperage cable/flex for the common return ("Bus Wire"). You can terminate the “Bus Wire” by using a method with a terminator but Digitrax specifically does not recommend it at all. The principle thinking of a "Ring Main" is right but only in terms of it requires thicker gauge wire to power the appliances, to reduce the impedance and current draw (too much current, produces heat and then fire, if not careful), the same idea should be applied to layouts. If you want to take full advantage of the 5 amps, without any problems over longer cables, I do suggest using a higher rated cable/flex. Majority of my wiring on my layout is Automotive wire, which is near enough double or triple the rating that is needed. I have from Rail to BDL168 is 3 amps and Common Return is the Brown cable of the “Twin and Earth” thus ensuring reduced Voltage Drop and Impedance. A company I use is PoleVolt which supply 100m reels at a reasonable price. Hope that helps and not too much information overload. Des

Another excellent video thanks a lot! You should have become a teacher, Charlie! I also have a go-around layout and one of my Trix locos have sometimes erratic responses to the commands I give. I am going to install the main bus interrupted, as you suggested, on the new layout. But in my understanding, I should also interrupt the track itself, shouldn't I? Otherwise the DCC signal would travel all around through it, exactly as it does through the bus. I must say I am not going to use electrofrogs.

Hi Charlie. I have been enjoying your videos immensely, especially during this lock down period. The signal gantry one was good and I have a etched brass kit of a gantry to build. Before I start it however, I need to get an understanding of how these things wire up with Digitrax. Can you do a video of this please? I have 4 zones in my layout but I’m going to change that to six so I can run more than 2 trains at once.

15 amp wire in the United States is 12 gauge AWG.