As others have mentioned, when rust gets to the point where you can flake it off in chunks, and/or has eaten through a substantial portion of the steel, and/or has eaten holes in the steel, the ONLY safe and effective repair method is to cut it out all of the way back to sound steel and weld in suitable repair material. Rust converters are intended for surfaces where you are treating the minor pitting left from removing surface rust, and fiberglass is intended to be applied to a clean, sound, rust-and-oil free surface. What you are doing is the same as a doctor putting an adhesive bandage on a malignant cancer and calling it cured because you can no longer see it.
So true, this part is more a "how not to restore your boat" :-) You did such a nice job the earlier stages. I worked a lot on old cars and the only good way is cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Important for boats, it must be from the right grade (In this case maritime grade steel, but most important, the same type the hull is made from) All other solutions are temporary and even can speed up the rust (has to do with chemical and electrical effects, like a zink-anode reduces rust on steel parts) What I often prefer to do is first cut a piece of steel, outline it on the hull and then cut that form out of the hull.
Great viewing as an ex merchant seaman I would get a small needle gun for chipping the rust handy in some awkward areas but you would need a compressor
With all due respect. Rust converter will only slow down rust for a very short time (months not years), especially on a boat. Complete removal of rust and welding new metal where needed is the only long term repair. The exhaust pipe is also rusty on the inside. Sandblasting is the best method.
Is that oil like phosphoric acid? only oil based instead of water based like Ospho???? I have never seen the stuff. I have had good luck stopping rust where it is using silicone tire shine, which is good at wiking down between layers of rust, but then not much will stick to it in terms of paints or fiberglass; Though I didn't think much would stick to any sort of oil either! Anyway, I think I agree about the holes needing to be welded, unless you can use sealants like that tire shine after fiberglassing to seal moisture out from getting under the patches, rusting the metal underneath, which then pries off the patches as it expands.
Listen to the experts, but ask a pertinent question. Did they ever take on a task this size at your age? Nah! they were still perfecting and honing their trade skills You don't have many skills but you are determined and along with your enthusiasm you will get there. I enjoy your efforts . Regards, JM
The rust around the bridge? windows, needs cutting out and replacing, while on that subject check your windows, all those hot sparks flying off when grinding can stick in the glass, soon as you use the boat and get any condensation it will rust, good progress keep going its starting to come together.
Three simple techniques to improve your stick welding. 1: Get a head mounted helmet, It will leave your left hand free for #2. 2: Use your left hand to steady the rod at the weld puddle. 3: Preheat your rods to remove moisture. A rod oven will reduce splatter, cracking and porosity. A common toaster oven will substitute for a commercial unit ( starting at $100 ).
The exhaust tube is probably is the last thing you want to skimp out on. Not only do you have the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning but you have a source of water to leak in the boat.
One tip you may not have known is the thermal expansion rates of iron oxide and steel are very different. I use heat to chip heavy flake rust quite regularly. If you do not have a small oxy-acetylene rig, it might be a good time to invest in one. You can start with a small tip and just heat up the rusty area. The flakes will almost shoot off (wear goggles, etc). It is then ready for wire brush and rusty metal paint.
What I always find really nice to do when patching holes. is using a holessaw to cut out nice round disks, then using the holesaw to enlarge holes that need patching. And with the disk you have a perfectly fitting piece of metal. Clean, quick and easy. you could use a piece of wood as backing to use for centering the holesaw Also way faster than drilling wholes and then cutting it out and getting the square to fit, Just an idea, keep up the good work tho, really entertaining to watch
Probably one of the most interesting series on RU-vid just now. Great content. Awesome watching this come together. You’re going to have a great boat at the end. 😀🤙
Use Teflon Tape for sealing the treads. Put it on clockwise and wrap the male threads several times. It’ll work well. It’ll also allow easy removal if you ever need to take the valve off
I agree, you can see in the video a few strands of Teflon tape still on the pipe threads, so my guess is it worked well enough for the previous owner(s).
Recommend you do a pressure test on that exhaust line. Plug both ends and test with just a few inches of water pressure. Just to be sure no leaks, carbon monoxide is bad stuff. Also we used rectorseal which is a liquid Teflon sealant. Great stuff
I am astonished at the amount of effort needed to do all these repairs! This must be truly a labor of love! I always look forward to these videos...to me they are really interesting and instructive. Thanks as always.
As much as I’m enjoying this guys renovation, I wish he’d take the same approach as you guys have on your boat, with your do it properly the first time and do it nice haha
Your welding is starting to look great - as I started by saying - you have to crawl before you can walk - continue the good work, think it will be a super boat
On the subject of the pipe fittings, the red stuff on there already is called Red Stag pipe jointing compound, it ,as mentioned by another poster can be used in conjunction with p.t.f.e tape or (horse hair) hemp, it's not really horse hair that's just a trade term.
Brilliant vlog and very interesting. Taking everything back to empty space and doing the job properly. Good work. If folks are interested there is another guy building a boat ‘One Man and His Boat’ on RU-vid. There are some good tips and interesting videos there as well.
HI from North Wales UK. Time maybe short but please do not cut corners to get there.................... You will regret it. Good luck with your build and I look forward to the next one!
I'm amazed that you still have not started working on the bottom of your boat with only a few weeks left before splash time. All the work I've seen you do so far could have been done after you put the boat in the water.
Many years we used a brushable sealant made by Orminoid called Hydraseal ,, its thick, you mix a small amount of petrol to the density you desire and brush it on your fitting ,, the petrol dissolves and leaves t good thick coating on the fittings,,, I've unscrewed 6 inch galvanized under ground irrigation fittings relatively easy after 5 plus years ,,
Just started to see your project love watching it I think you're doing very well,I spent time in your country in l1978 when I was in army and loved it and the people I'm from the UK
For cleaning rust from pipe use a chain , one turn round the pipe and pull back and forth. Make it wate tight whith regular pipe stuff not m3 silicone. Lin an some lin greas
Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
Use PTFE tape for the valve connection. I turn per MM size of the pipe - looks like that is about 25mm as such 25 turns. WInd it on tight and up and down the thread.
Grind the fwd cabin bilge grommet (pipe) away and install a bronze grommet, a lot safer. Iron grommets are the most common cause for ship leaks and loss.
you might have to cut out and weld in the rust under the windscreen from out side and use the glass filler inside, which will still be hard but not as hard as welding in that tight space.
Hey buddy, I really like the channel. I know you have already work past that cockpit rust, but you should get a needle gun. It works so much faster. The down side it needs a larger compressor to run it. You are doing great.
@My First Boat *_ Being in the Metal industry for over 50 yrs (I'm 72) I would seriously recommend using a Metal Scaler (Needle Hammer) to properly remove that RUST ... Take a look at this and perhaps hire one from your local Tool Hire Shop, Thay ARE available in Electric & Battery powered: _*
I truely hope that your solution with the exhaust pipe works, but I think it could be a big problem for you. If it leaks fumes into the cabin, it could be deadly and if you survive, you will have to take the interior apart to get at it. Good luck.
@@mick8137 How do you get by in life? You do know that diesel engines run on fossil fuel don't you? Carbon monoxide is a product produced by fossil fuels when burned. If you breathe in the fumes, it will eventually kill you.
You should buy yourself a needle scaler. Since you have an air compressor this should not be to expensive. It is handy for rust and welding. Makes life a lot easier.
At 3:37 - whatever you do, DO NOT USE 5200! 5200 will make a permanent and unbreakable bond with the fitting and you will never get it off again. Much better to use plumbers tape or a marine equivalent. Great channel btw - found you in week 2 and have been watching your progress ever since. One last thought, three weeks till launch is crazy optimistic. I'm hoping to get my boat in by the second week of May and my to-do punch list is puny compared with yours. Best of Luck!!! I'll be rooting for you!
Great video just love it when the notification pops up. Had a busy day today and this is just what I needed. Keep up the good work it’s going to look amazing when it’s done. 👍
Buddy that is way past what rust conversion can do. Time to sort the plasma cutter out and be brutal chop out the rot weld in new steel. That or have to do it in a year or two.
A pneumatic needler tool would have been perfect for chipping off loose rust and get it cleaner. Maybe for the future you will find this comment useful.
Yes, the needle scalar is not just the best choice, it's the ONLY choice. However they require a good air compressor, which he does not seem to have. He's doing OK with what he has.
Yes I agree with you they require a lot of air. I have seen electric versions before, I just don’t know if they are any good or not. I am in no way taking away from the work that has been done just wanted to point it a tool that some don’t know existed.
A tip for arc welding, keep the electrode consistently at a 45 degree angle to the work piece, that way the flux on the outside of the electrode covers the weld properly
Look into getting a pneumatic needle scaler. Gets that rust in the corners and it doesn't create a lot of dust comparitively speaking. Much more efficient and effective than a screwdriver. Use hearing protection!!
You know something else that would help with that pipe, a sanding belt,a good drill and making a wheel for the drill. Turn the belt sand side in, get it over the pipe and use the drill and wheel to turn it to sand that hard to reach spot, takes a little practice but works.
A woodwork file is called a rasp.A heavy duty file used on metal work is called a bastard file,some bastard files can be 600mm long.I enjoyed my woodwork and metalwork classes in school.You have done a lot of muscle burning work on the boat i am sure she will look lovely when she is finished.Finding that pair of cutters under the woodwork after being there after 43 years,if the owner was watching he would be oh so that's where i left them LOL,now i remember.
For rusted out corners a thin rod laid all around and weld- melted in place would fill the corner up with a nice fillet. Nope. The holes are too big. Great accomplishment, by the way.
I have used rust-oleum rust metal primer for years which has fish oil in the ingredients that help force out moisture. Leave exposed with primer before top coating.
Your coming along nicely I thing I would do is check out Sv Seeker he built a 74ft Metal boat in his back yard If you need suggestions please reach out to him plus he will put your show on As always Great Show Denny from Minnesota
While doing engine work, you definitely need to replace the water pump impeller before you put the boat in the water and also replace the belt. Make sure your temperature gauge is working as well. Don't want to overheat the engine. Cheers from Austin, Texas
Whoops. Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can BE saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
Needle gun would probably work the best. I was wondering if an oscillating multi tool would help in some situations as well. I've used mine WAY more than I ever thought I would
Okay, is it just me, or is the background music from GTA? I recognize it from running heists and missions...Great videos, btw. Found your channel yesterday, and decided to watch everything in order! You make me want to buy an old boat and stick it in my field as a long term project!
