As a sheetmetal worker we were taught to be very careful not to deburr towards your hands as it is capable of cutting tendons if the tool jumps from a snag.
I used one of that kind of deburring tool for decades when manufacturing aviation sheetmetal structural parts. I'm retired from the aviation industry now. When looking back, I see a lot of tools I used in aviation that can be directly transferred over to 3D printing. I pulled out my 12 inch steel rule graduated in hundreds on one side and fractions on the other yesterday to take measurements because I needed them for the part I was designing. That steel rule has touched literally 1000s of aircraft parts. Now it has been brought back to life. This is the coolest hobby ever. My own little computer-aided manufacturing plant. Now I can get busy and start building that time machine I always wanted.
Hello Igor, I have been following for a while, this is the first time I think I can teach something instead of be taught: supports are easily removed by hand with the same surface quality, utilizing slicer settings. Depending on filament, I would suggest increasing vertical distance, fan%, and lowering flow. Of course, this tool is great for brims.
I use a deburring tool for my 3D prints, angle it at 45 degrees and clean away. I find it works better on internal cleanup, for external I hold the cutter with my fingers to prevent it from spinning, makes cleaning the outside of round shapes etc much easier.
Apart from my Hungarian comment, here is one for the masses. We use these tools at work and they are extremely handy for cleaning 3d printed tools, cleaning cut plastic sheets (the ones that go into Bosch profiles for example) and a lot of other custom made parts. We have assembly lines for tables that are used to assemble wiring harnesses. These tables have all kinds of plastic sheets, metal brackets and what not. We use the deburring tool on these too, to save the wiring harnesses from damages. They are really handy and I've been wanting to get one for aged, but never saw them available locally.
The problem with these tools is, that if you get stuck during cleaning and you continue then abruptly, you can get more material out of the part as it happens on your try. Only if you do it in one continuous try, without stucking and always with the same pressure, then you get nice, clean and even results.
I love using the deburring tool on "inside curves" (like a hole) where the part kind of guides the tool. On "outside curve" (like the perimeter), it doesn't work so well in my opinion. For this, I tend to use the knife but I orientate the edge away from the motion to avoid digging in the part (I scrape, I don't cut)
This is a brilliant tool for general deburring commonly used in engineering and one I use all the time. Worth looking at tools designed for model making like the Revell Precision Scraper Tool. Love the channel ang nice to see you review a range of things for the 3D printer enthusiast.
I bought a de-burring tool for my 3D prints, and found it tended to dig in and gouge the edge, like you did at 3:52. So I went back to using a hobby knife.
I always enjoy watching your videos, in this one you make a simple deburring tool become interesting. I use the same style of deburring tool (but with a metal body) and find it very useful, the best feature is, as you point out, that it finds the correct angle. I also use a pocket knife for some jobs, the knife blade is made of a material (CPM S110V) of typical hardness 58/61 HRC and so can be used for softer metals, but it can dig into materials unlike the deburring tool. Vote deburring tool +1 Just out of interest, we have fairly strict knife public carry laws in the UK, no assisted opening mechanisms and no locking mechanisms, blade 3" or less, etc.
I also have the deburring tool and in some cases it is useful but every now and again I have to get the craft knife out for areas where I cant get with the deburring tool, on the whole it is a very useful tool
great to use on holes but I prefer to use a #11 xacto blade for my cleanups. blade is sharp for small details and inside corners, and I use the back edge as a scraper for bulk clean up. cabinet scrapers or card scrapers work well also.
I use the deburring tool a lot but it does need a little practise to angle the handle correctly else it judders, also a set of small files is very handy. Knife causes too much damage because I get lazy and rush things. Nice demo of how not to use a knife at one stage there, I had a good chuckle because it happens so easily. I also tried a potato peeler, it doesn’t work very well for plastics, digs in too much
Absolutely fantastic for an interior radius like the inside diameter of a PVC pipe. It's horrible for the outside radius of that same pipe. Would work OK if the blade could be locked so it doesn't spin. Comments here confirmed that I'm not using it wrong; it's just that it's very good at some things and not good at others.
By using a one-color cutting surface (without strongly contrasting lines) you will probably have less issue with the auto-focus of the camera being on the cutting surface instead of your hands/object.
A brim eltávolításárav használom, vagy élek utómunkájához. A támasztékot egy erős csipesszel szoktam leszedni, lekaparni. A stringing eltűntetéséhez forrólevegős forrasztóállomást, kefét és sniccert használok.
I find its great for straight edges. Unfortunately less helpful on external rounded corners. similar conclusion to you. but was hoping it would be good for round corners.
------ ich verstehe zwar kein wort, aber den entgrater nutze ich auch schon seid 4 jahren für meine drucke. hatte das teil noch liegen zuhause, weil ich maschienenschlosser bin. und der entgrater ja eigendlich aus dem metallbereich kommt und für 3d druck nur zweckentfremdet wird. :-) aber klappt gut.
I can't work with it, because it always starts to rotate as soon as I do a bit of pressure. Therefore I don't really know how to use it for deburring. I use other tools and in this video I expected to see or hear at least one sentence on how to deal with this tool, but you ownly showed that you are using it with different materials, but after 10 minutes of watching, I still don't know how to use this tool properly 🙂
@@MyTechFun It’s perfect for steel. You can trim an edge from start to finish in one go. And it needs some speed to work. So, long edges get a cleaner trim. Soft metals and plastics on the other hand get carved if you aren’t careful enough. That’s my experience anyway.