Product improvement suggestion: Since the miter gauge can be used on either side of the blade, it would be nice if the zero clearance blocks you sell were reversible as well. I just bought some and the holes are only drilled to be used with the miter gauge on the left side of the blade. Not a huge deal, but small details add up and it wouldn't cost anything for woodpeckers to drill a couple extra holes :)
Your products are always terrific! I have several of your items, and they never fail to impress with quality fabrication, accuracy, as well as lots of great innovation. Thanks, and have a great day!
Jeff, great video as always and you covered some nice points that will be a value to me. I just ordered this miter gauge with the fence. I already have a couple of popular brands and they work very well, but you can never have too many miter gauges, right?! A couple of things. I talked to Chris in customer support about this. I’m also going to be buying the 4 foot pieces to use with my miter saw. Again, as you know, that’s the same track. I realize that I can’t use measuring tape with the tablesaw miter gauge in the same way. However I would like to have a tape so I don’t have to use a tape measure every time. So I’m just going to use a measuring tape on what is the front side of the table saw miter gauge and I can either lean over or look at it from the other side when I’m initially setting up my cut for multiple pieces that need to be the same. I also have a question about the leaf springs. As I mentioned, I have a nice miter gauge made by the company with the gold bar. It works well, but as Woodpeckers has pointed out, the miter slot adjustment could need adjustment over time, and it doesn’t follow the miter slot in the same way that the leaf springs well. My only concern with the leaf springs would be to ask if they depress any if you should twist the miter gauge while making a cut. I assume that they are rather heavy duty and very stiff from what the pictures seem to show. Thanks as always
Steven, There's no problem at all in applying a tape to your miter gauge fence. Just figure out how much space you want between the end of the fence and the blade and cut the tape to that point to align with the edge of the fence. You might consider getting a right-to-left reading one and applying it upside down, so when you're looking over the top it's easier to read. The springs are stiff enough you won't be able to compress them while making a cut. At least...not without really trying.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for the fast reply! That’s exactly what I was planning to do. Although I’d love to be able to put the tape on top of the fence, this “fix“ will work perfectly. Thanks again. Love Woodpeckers products. If you saw my garage, it’s a sea of red!
Definitely buying this. Got the Harvey MG36 and it came with some really annoying issues. Won't return to 90 degrees consistently. So hopefully I can sell it for twice what I am paying for a stealth stop lol
Looks like an awesome new tool at a great price. What's the compatibility with the Exact-90 and the 25.5" Miter bar? Are they interchangeable? Seems to me that the ideal solution would be this head with the E-90's fence and miter bar.
def not. the e90 is meant to always give a perfect 90 cut without having to mess with the squaring of the fence each time. very different tools you are confusing with one another
Worst case scenario. Most likely will be earlier than that, but we built in a fudge factor because extrusions are still experiencing some supply chain problems.
Ok... Well I had made a rather long comment here giving feedback on the INCREDIBLE experience that I recently had as a new customer with Woodpeckers. But RU-vid is just NOT allowing me to make it stick here! So... I had a lot to say but it's been great so far. I just don't understand RU-vid's algorithms these days. Seems I just can't post ANYTHING without YT taking issue with it and taking the comment down. 😠
I truly wanted to love this miter fence, unfortunately the nylon leaf springs keep you from setting the miter gauge into the slot from the top you have to push it in from the end, if it pops up you can't push it back down. Whats even worse is I bought the autoscale miter sled. Have yet to open it just hate the miterbar.
I don’t know, that is a pretty minor inconvenience in my opinion. The leaf springs provide a slop-free fit in the slot and will automatically adjust due to any wear over time. YMMV
Is the SS fence compatible with the Exact 90 body? That would be a nice combo because the SS flip out stop is far superior to the flip down micro adjust that comes with the E90.
The Exact 90 flip stop solves the problem a different way. There's a spur that fits back into the fence profile and provides a positive stop for mitered ends.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Yes I understand what the flip stop is trying to do, it just doesn’t do it very well. My question: Is the SS fence compatible with the E90 body?
Moose, it isn't a direct fit, but you can make an interface plate for it as shown in this Deep Dive ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9DBUs2p3EEU.html
Jeff thanks -- as usual an excellent video. I already have an extension fence kit that I acquired about three weeks before I saw the video for this fence a month or so ago on a different Deep Dive. I also see that you sell the "stops" separately. I am wondering if they would fit in a standard T slot or if your stop is designed for a wider track. It appears in the video that the adjustable stops go in a track that's a little wider than the typical standard T track. My fence has a standard T track slot on the top and on the face of the extension fence and I was wondering if your stop would work on it. It appears to be a well-designed stop. Thanks
Having learned woodworking on a Shopsmith 40 years ago, I feel your pain. Sadly, there just aren't enough of them in use today to warrant making another bar size.
The cheap plastic knobs to tighten the bolts are worthless. One was striped when I received the gauge and the other striped out before the bolt was tightened. Now I have to keep a separate wrench around the table saw.
using it on the right side of the blade, the bar would be pushed to the right side of the slot, same as on the left ... but different in that it would not be the side of the slot closest to the blade ... is that right ?
Hi Jeff, I use a Dewalt jobsite saw so I don't have much table top space. I use one of the Incra miter gauges now, but it is fairly heavy and not easy to use. It looks like this WP miter gauge will weigh a little less and easier to manage. Would you agree? Thank you.
Rick, The WP SS miter gauge is all about simplicity. Also, the extendable fence is well matched to jobsite sized saws. I don't want to talk about competitors, but I can tell you in my home shop (which, by the way is not entirely Woodpeckers) I have two radial arm saws, a miter saw and 3 table saws. They're all equipped with StealthStops now.
On my current miter gauge(rockler) I have to shim the fence to get it 90 with the table, it leans back towards me, is there a way to adjust that on this?
The minimum stock thickness for the stop to be effective "as is" would be 1/4". If you need to cut material thinner than that, use a small piece of scrap between the stop and your material.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Why dosen't the stop go all the way down to the table saw top? You have had a little notch and had it go all the way down. Flawed design!
The miter gauge needs to be calibrated to the miter slot, not the blade because the slot determines the travel. The blade, of course, also should be calibrated to the miter slot.
Correct. Best way is to calibrate to slot. If the blade is cutting front of blade first, it will cut well and square that way, whereas it would reproduce the error if set to blade.
