I finally got my front blade system finished. It is a bit different from yours, Tim, and VERY different from much earlier 1025 models. My tractor and blade are both from just a couple of months ago. It took me a while to figure it all out, but using your video really helped! Besides, as Tim The Tool Man Taylor says, "Real men don't need no stinkin' instructions!". BTW, you will be glad to know that these blade kits now come with the hoses color-coded to make the blade move right when the lever is moved right, with black-to-black and yellow-to-yellow. You will be unhappy to know that those left-right-swing hoses on the left side are still sticking out in the wind, subject to be jammed full of snow. I just want to thank you for this video which helped me greatly in figuring out the correct layout of the components.
Tim, I always review this video when reconnecting my quick hitch blade for the season. Tomorrow I will install it for the winter. Thanks for creating helpful videos.
Thanks Tim for making it look easy. I bought one of these used with no instructions for my 2305 Deere. I fumbled around and figured it all out, but I couldn't understand how they called it a Quick Hitch. Now that Iv'e watched your video I can attach it without so much lifting. Dummies like me need a little coaching sometimes! 🔧 🚜
Good video! I live in Eastern Canada, lots of snow here. I have an X739. I agree with the back dragging issue. Not only does the snow pack in there, but the hot hydraulics turns that packed snow into ice...eventually the left/right function fails, and then you need the heat gun to melt the ice. I solve that by liberally spraying the area with anti-ice silicone before each use. Then the snow won't stick in the cavity. No big deal, I just keep a can handy. I use both the blade (with the JD 9" extensions to make it an even 6 feet) and the blower. I prefer the blade, but if 12+ inches of snow falls, I switch to the blower. At the start of the snow season, the quick hitch goes on the tractor. Then it's very easy to go back and forth between the blower and the blade, as needed...no lifting. My driveway is gravel, so I installed the wider HD shoes on the blade...those help the blade to "float" better and not sink into the gravel, especially early on before the surfaces freeze.
Thanks for the installation discussion.. I had my dealer mounted the blade and they removed my mower brackets..your video helped me reinstall properly. I had the same blade for almost 20 years on an x595.. and it was awesome and handy for blading rock on a long driveway as well as the best for snow.. so I had to get one for my 1025r after only one year without it.. they also sent it to me without the locking pin.. if I had not already had the same blade I would’ve been stuck trying to figure that out too… thanks for covering that as well in your video for other new users. I really appreciate all your videos you are very thorough. Thanks.
Tim, Great video. It is 10-13-23 and I decided to switchover from my FEL and get ready for winter early here in SE Michigan. Your video is my guide. Thanks. Bill
Tim, thanks so much for doing this video, just purchased the quick hitch and “other” 60” blade you mentioned. The quick hitch kit came with no directions at all and having never really seen one installed it was just a pile of parts. You video made things clear. Congrats on your new property, we just did the same with 5 acres. A man after my own heart. Jeff
Tim--Great video! There is another way to attach this setup. Separate the QuickHitch from the blade, (or any other attachment,) and install them separately. First put the QH on the tractor without the use of the hydraulics. Then, put the blade onto the QH. This makes it so you are never lifting the whole setup. I used to do it your way, but found it to be less time-consuming and easier on the back to do them separately. Save your back for future videos!
The stool you have is one of the best shop accessories I have ever owned, very underrated. Mine is identical and it has spent more than 15 years rolling around under aircraft in commercial aviation and now retired to my shop. Basic design has proven to stand up longer than more popular styles available theses days.
+Airplane Doctor yea, I use it all the time. Plastic shelf under it is brittle and breaking now, and there may be a tear in the vinyl seat. ...but it is still a nice stool!
Love your Vids. I'm running a 2025R, with a Front Mount 54" Blower (And my 130 Loader) and it takes about 15 Minutes to change over for the winter. I'd love a quick attach blade do do follow-up snow scraping but it's too much of a Pain! Here is Nova Scotia we Sometimes get a lot of snow and other years we get almost none. Keep up the Great work!!
+Tim Spence good to hear from you, Tim. On the 1025R, the auto-connect mechanism must be removed to switch to blower. Here, we just don't get enough snow for a blower. They are making a big deal out of 1 inch on the way tonight.
I know.. I'm a LITTLE jealous of that, but I use my 300x for mowing, the 62" mower was a mistake. It's too big and it collects dust on the top of my Pallet Racking (also an idea I gleaned from you!)
+Tim Spence hopefully you mean that you got the pallet racking idea from me, rather than the 'sits around collecting dust' :-) Christy thinks I do a lot of the latter!
Thanks for that video,Tim. It was very helpful. I have the same blade, and attachment kit. The biggest problems I have with it (aside from remembering the steps that you laid out so clearly in the video) are a) that the hydraulic hose attachments closest to the blade come loose and spray out hydraulic fluid when I'm using it, and b) that the hydraulics for swinging the blade left and right don't work properly.
Tim, Twice a year I review this video to make sure I have the key points top of mind. I consider this as the benchmark for how to install this snow blade on my 1025r. Thanks again for this PSA. Bill
I absolutely love your how-to videos.I am getting my own 1025r this month, and have watched, and rewatched ALL of your videos. Outstanding work. The video edits are professional grade work. I've never owned any kind of tractor before, and watching you, I feel like I can do this. I own just over 2 acres or property that is half flat, and half hilly. I live on a rural township, and have to plow and matin my own driveway ( about 150 yards worth). I think your family makes the videos very enjoyable. I like the Gospel readings on most of the videos also. If and when I need to remove a tire, where are the lift and stands placement points on the 1025r? Maybe a short video on that?
Thanks very much for your words of encouragement! I lift under the backhoe sub-frame assembly. However, you may not have the backhoe, so you might not have that bracket.
Best video I've seen for the quick Hitch. Spent hours looking to see what I was missing for the front mounted snow blower! It's the hanger bracket that needs to be bolted to the front bumper shown ver well hear. Know to find one!! Thanks
Thanks Tim. I'm glad you did this video. I was thinking of getting one for the farm work. But now hearing it's made light, I will no longer want it. I needed something that is going to handle pushing a lot of dirt without bending or breaking something.
Hi Tim - Thanks again for the great videos. My 54 blade had its yellow and back caps reversed too. Easy enough to fix. I have an earlier version of the 54 blade on a smaller tractor (420) and it works very well and can push just about anything. Interesting note - the mounting system on the early quick hitch have fewer components and every part is heavier gauge steel. Given the lighter construction and multiple parts involved - I plan on using the 54 on my 1025r only for snow (and carefully at that).
Phil Goldblum I also have a 420. After 26 years it's still going strong. My son has it now I have the 1025R. I don't like the quick hitch but it is what it is. I went with the CTA 60" blade.
I wish I would've purchased a 1 Series rather than the X590. But the dealer didn't really wanna sell me a 1023E at JD promo of $99/mo. (June 2016 was purchase time) but I didn't push the issue since they pay my paycheck every week. But i can now see, especially with your great videos is how useful a 1 Series would've been. I will probably buy a 1 Series when I am ready for a new one. Oh well, live and learn, keep up the great videos.
I enjoy all of your videos and have learned a lot. I will be purchasing a new 1025R sometime this spring and your videos have helped me decide on what additional attachments I will need and want! I'm going to start with the 60" auto-connect mower and the H120 front loader. Keep up the good work! I live in the Brighton, Michigan area.
+Todd K Smith thanks for checking in, Todd! I'm excited about your new tractor! Make sure you get some rear ballast. ...maybe the heavy hitch plus some rear weights.
My hoses also were backward and I just changed the black and yellow covers. My instructions showed the front hose holder in hole right above the front tire not on the front hitch. I like the idea of putting one on the hitch, I'll order a third one. Thanks I enjoy your videos. Drifterbik
Tim, My 54” front blade and quick hitch I bought used is installed. I finally gave in and bought the Artillian plow wings and installed them and despite buying a UHMW edge and installing it I just ordered the Artillian rubber cutting edge. The UHMW edge was not wide enough and its lack of width was causing excessive wear on the Artillian plow wings.
Your missing two hose guide's one mount's just behind the hood guard the other mount's just in front of the loader bracket. They should have come with the quick hitch, plus hardware. They will cure the clearance issue with the front tire when you are turning. In the mean time you can route the hose's on the inside of the hood guard.
Overall, pretty nice setup. I've been watching your videos on that series of tractor you've got & you've been very informative. Thanks for posting. Stay safe.
I know this is several years old, but a bit of back history: the 54" blade was originally on the 300- series garden tractor. It was later improved for the 420 series, with a quick-hitch setup. Then the 4X5 series used the same blade, with it's own quick hitch. The newer x-series also uses this same blade, with either it's own quick hitch, or the 4X5 series quick hitch. At this point, the 54" blade has been in use for 30 years, on various tractor series. While it's not perfect, it certainly efficent for manufacturing across a wide range.
Actually Adam to the best of my untrained knowledge the 54” blade started in 1968 on a 12 horsepower John Deere 140. My father had one with his 140. It’s a design that should have never changed. The trip locking pin was located on the top and in the center.
I work for a Deere dealership and personally own a 1025r...for 2017 Frontier is offering a 60" boom mounted front blade model AF10F designed for the 1 series tractors D120 or H120 loaders. I think it will be a better option then the 54 quick hitch blade and you can really stack the snow up in piles with a loader mounted blade.
Sean, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching. This is the only page I could find on the AF10F.www.deere.com/en_US/products/equipment/frontier_implements/loader_attachments/af10-series-front-blades/af10-series-front-blades.page? However, this page does not indicate if this blade can be hydraulically angled. Do you have any more information on this? BTW, where are you located?
Im located in eastern Pennsylvania...as far as I know its a manual angle blade but I'm sure someone will find a way to adapt a cylinder on it to angle or maybe a kit might be offered in the future.
This video saved me a LOT of time just sitting and fitting the pieces of this puzzle together. My dealer said he couldn't get the mounts on my 1025r for a couple of months. I don't want to put it off that long, so I just took the kit with me. He didn't supply any instructions, so it really is a "Rubic's Cube" kind of puzzle. I had figured out how the two small brackets attach to the tractor, but had not figured out how the "intermediate" bracket fits in place. Your video cleared that right up. Also, the issue of the black and yellow hoses being reversed Is good to know. BTW, just received my TTWT hat today. For those who don't have one, they are REALLY nice hats! Just waiting for my t-shirts now. Thanks!
Yes, you're on my hat. I have the L/XL size, and they are not adjustable, but are like the old Sans-A-Belt pants with a double elastic headband to make it fit nicely. Very nice, heavy quality with nice embroidery. You should get yourself one. Shall I donate one to the cause?
Tim I have the same blade on my John Deere F-935. I would recommend for you to take the two wear skids off and welding a piece of thicker Steel on the bottoms because they wear quickly. I am new to your channel and not aware of your abilities but making a heavier wear bar for the bottom of the blade is a good idea. I think the OEM is a little thin. Of course if you had your own Iron worker like Paul's you could make your own. I own the next model down myself a 55 ton Just thought I would give you some things I experienced with my blade
Milton Fludgecow I actually don't use the wear plates at all. They are raised all the way up. I let the blade float on the rubber cutting edge. Seems to work well, and clean the driveway very well. Thanks for watching and commenting! I'm certainly not nearly as talented at metal working as Paul!
Tim, I think it is a lot easier to install if you attach the hydraulic assembly to the tractor first and then install the blade to the hydraulic assembly. Lifting the hydraulic assembly to the tractor is much lighter without the blade.
Hello Tim, I have the same set up on my 2520. I feel the quick hitch is the weak link. I keep the 54 inch blower hooked up all winter, and when I need the blade, I just switch them out. If you take your time and don't get over aggressive it seems to do the job.
When I had the 425 I had the 54" blade with QH. I always hooked the QH up first and then just drove into the blade and lifted to attach it to the QH. As for moving dirt, with the 425 I pushed a lot of dirt and rock and had no problems. I bought the 425 back in '92 so I don't know if they make them cheaper now or not. It's that time of year so hope you don't get to much snow and for pete's sake don't send it down here. I am ready for it though. I put the chains on yesterday. With the hills and R-4's I need chains so I can stop from going over the edge. I was surprised the first time I pushed snow without chains. I had a hard time coming back up our drive without them and I sure didn't want to slide down it onto the road or over the edge. But with the FEL on at least that gave me a brake I could use to stop.
Yes, I think you're supposed to hook up the QH first and leave it on so you can easily put on/take off blade, broom, blower. Why did you leave the QH on the blade? Seems that's creating more work.
When you angle the blade, the other side pops up in the air. Is there a way to stop this from happening? One side of my cutting bar is getting eaten away.
Good video Tim. I have the 1026R and use my 54" blade on it when I have a frozen base, so I can set it to free float when moving snow over my 5/8's minus gravel driveway. I found that in the mounting sequence, I put everything on the front of my tractor and then hang and lock the blade to the quick hitch. It's not that heavy for me. I noticed in your garage that you also have the FEL for your tractor. Have you tried using it to move snow? I installed some metal bolt on skis last year to it and it works really well to push and move snow. If you get a lot of snow I've found that the 54" blade, on a driveway, will allow the sides to come in on you as the snow builds up. Using a FEL allows you to pick up and move snow piles where using just a blade doesn't. Here is the link about those FEL skis I installed on my FEL. Thanks again for the video.
I recently adapted one of the older blades to fit my 1723 Massey! I have a friend with a plasma table so he cut me some brackets. Unfortunately I only have the hydraulic lift at this time. I am able to push dirt with mine as well so it is a very useful piece.
I've been watching for awhile now and love your channel. Very glad i found this video because i bought a 1025R in October. I have two 425 all steer jd's one with this 54 inch blade and the other with a mower deck. I didn't like changing back and forth from blade to mower so i bought two. But i love the idea of putting the blade on my 1025R. I have used it for years to move snow and blade the rock driveway. Never had a problem what so ever other that getting high centered once in a while. I live about an hr and a half south west of St.louis,MO. Anyway just wanted to say the blade works great. Love the show. Have a Merry Christmas!
@@TractorTimewithTimNo I haven't found the correct bracket yet. Its going to be different than the one in your video. You have any ideas where to find or if its even being made?
Tim, have you had trouble with interference on the tilt and lift cylinder hose connectors at the cylinders? In this video I noticed they connectors are configured slightly different than the way mine came. On your tilt connector you have a single 90 and then a formed tube 90 on the hose end. Mine didn’t come that way, but I think I can swap the lift hoses to the tilt. I don’t think there will be as much of a clearance concern with the lift cylinder. Mine came with two standard 90 fittings which always seem to twist and then they get pinched and bent with full left tilt which then causes a leak. I wish I could see what fittings you have on the lift cylinder. Thanks! Jim
i love using a back blade. thats what i grew up with. i need some steel wings for my blade cause it needs 1 ft wider since i moved my tires out for handling my loader. i run chains but i need some new ones that are for more field than highway use. getting more wheel wieghts eventually
very good video. for a first time blade user, a video on installing the hydraulic angle cylinder would be great. this would help to address the non-intuitive, poor location and orientation issues cited in the video. when converting from a blower, can't forget to change over the pivot locking pin.
Hi Tim years ago I had a jd 140 with the 54 inches blade I had the tractor at about 1000 lbs it handled all the snow that Mother Nature dished out for several years a good trick is to paint the blade with a graphic paint also your loader bucket
If you want the color coding on the quick connects, on the tractor, to match the action you expect the blade to do, leave the ones on the tractor on the the same fittings, ergo, black to black, yellow to yellow, just change the ones on the implement, if you have the same style fittings & enough hose length of course
Thank you for the video. It answers a several questions for me. I am about a year and a half from fleeing southern California and going home to Texas. I am leaning towards a 2025R. I believe the extra lift capacity will allow me to use a 5 foot finish mower and box blade. The E series would do the job but I really want to be able to drop off the FEL. I've had the good fortune to visit a JD dealership out here. I was able to avoid the salesmen and speak to a couple of mechanics. They agreed that the power/hp ratings of these tractors was actually lower than what they would dyno at. Have you had any issues with the power of yours in any of your jobs?
+aubrey ward no issue with power. If interested in a 2025r, I would recommend waiting until the next generation comes out. Supposed to be announced this year.
"Attached support bracket kit" I'm confused by this. I love your videos, but I'ved watched this section multiple times and cannot figure it out. I have not decided on my tractor purchase yet so am just planning ahead. I currently have a non-hydraulic GT235 and switch between mower and plow. Doesn't help that you started talking about the heavy hitch, LOL. What is the attached support braket kit? Was that already on the 1025R? Was it there for the mower? Was it something you bought later to replace the original mower mount bracket? Does the attached support bracket kit work with both the mower and the quick attach plow, without changes? (I realize mower comes off before plow goes on). I've seen other videos where a user without the "attached support braket kit" has to remove mower brackets, and then install plow brackets, and then fit the quick attach plow bracket to those plow brackets (the side plates that replace the mower bracket side plates). So I'm wondering if the "attached support bracket kit" is some sort of solution to allow one universal bracket that works with both the mower and the plow (not at the same time, but without having to change brackets, meaning the side plates). Any clarification you can offer/suggest here would be welcome 🙂
Ok. I know this entire connection mechanism is confusing. Adding to the confusion is that it continues to change! The 2020+ model year tractor does require removing one mower bracket. The 2019 and earlier models do not require removing any mower brackets. The attach support bracket is one of the three pieces on the floor to start…nearest the tractor. Worst case your dealer can help with all of the necessary parts, but hopefully you will figure it out.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks. Your mentioning the model changes does help. Clarifies how different users may report different results/needs. Just as context to the why I was asking, it is part of my trying to decide between loader mounted snow clearing, vs frame mounted snow clearing. At this moment, even though frame mounted may be more efficient to clear snow, the ease of not messing with the mower bracket and installing the plow bracket (twice a year, every year), leans me toward loader mounted snow clearing. Also the issue of switching over between bucket moving snow piles to frame mounted snow clearing. I'm at this moment leaning toward the combo of bucket and snow pusher swapping on the loader, with back blade on the rear 3pt (which also provides some weight). 3 or 4 dozen videos from now I may change my mind, ha, ha, ha.
Hello Tim. Thanks for the video's. I was going to buy a front blade until I inquired on the price. $1500.00 is way to high for me. So, I use my loader and newly purchased Frontier 2060L blade with glides.($525.00). I want to buy a cab for my 1025r, but they don't come with a/c. lol. God bless and may you and your family have a Merry Christmas. Luke 2:11
Excellent video! I just bought the same blade and quick hitch for an older 445 and this video cleared up a lot of questions. But I do have a question. The two, J shaped "feet," on the bottom of the blade, both sides. What is your advice for adjusting them for a blacktop driveway? Right now, when the blade is set in the plowing position, the blade is about 2 inches too high/up off the driveway. Any advice is much appreciated. No, I don't have a manual, blade was a consignment purchase from JD dealer.
Did you just answer my million dollar question? All I need to do is get the two brackets closet to the tractor then a blade and the lift adapter off a 445 in work?
I have successfully grinded off the bottom of my blade and cutting edge because I have not adjusted my skid shoes correctly. I took the cutting edge off and turned it over and I ordered new heavier duty skid shoes I saw on one of your other videos. I also ordered a plastic or poly cutting edge that I saw on the same video. Two questions. 1 how low should the skid shoes be and is it correct that shipping should cost 71 $? Thanks
Tim, I have the blade and hydraulic hardware that mounted directly on to my JD X739 but now want to use it on the 1025R. Can you buy the mounting bracket kit needed to adapt to the 1025R separately?
I am very happy with the blade on my X738. Just for the heck of it I decided I wanted to run the blade on my 2025R (I didn't like my loader mounted blade so I traded it for a grapple) and blower on my X738. MY QUESTION is can you leave the 3 brackets on the frame and still take the loader on and off with your set up? I bought my X738 when you and the dealer suggested the 1025. I have not regretted my decision at all. I do not put mine away without cleaning the snow off the quick hitch. It has worked fine for 6 years now.
I’m having an issue with mine. When I angle the blade to the left it hits the hose and cracks the elbow fitting. Is there a certain way that it needs to be, because anyway I look at it it’s going to break the fitting.
Tim when you bought your Deere were you considering any other tractor manufacturers? I'm in the the market for a sub compact. We've always owned John Deere and currently have a Z757 zero turn with the 25 hp Kawasaki which we love and are keeping but we need something to replace our old lawn tractor. LX188. We live on 6.5 acres and really need a good all round machine. I've been looking at Kubotas as well and the Ventrac 4500 has piqued my interest. Anyway thanks for input and I like your videos.
I considered other manufacturers to some degree. I investigated the specs, etc. However, I have a bias toward Deere because of my family's farm background. Additionally, my dad has had several small Deere's over the years for lawn mowers (750, 770, and now a 3320 w/cab). So, honestly, my bias led to the Deere. Since my original purchase, I have become more interested in the competing brands. During last year's farm show, I looked closely at many competing brands, evaluating things like ergonomics, ease of 'connectivity', etc. While the Deere MAY not live up to the specs of some of the other machines on paper, the connectivity, ergonomics, longevity of dealer support, parts availability, etc would lead me back to Deere again. Even on the specs, I see that my 1025R's abilities FAR exceed the specs listed. For instance, I can lift 1000lbs off the ground (not to full height) with my loader. Are you within a day's drive to Louisville, Ky? We are going to the NFMS Feb 17th-18th. You can see every brand in existence there. We'd love to meet you (and all subscribers) there.
You answered my only question. Chains.. Wondered why you were not chained up while doing snow removal. You have sufficient weight and traction and can work without them.
Hi Mr. Tim, thankya for sharing this video on the connection of your front snow plow blade. Questions: 1.) Can this blade or any like it be attached to the front loader? You then would be able to get the height you need for when you need to do any angling. 2.) Also, when your were talking about the back dragging of the snow & ice, is there any way that those hose connection fittings could be remounted to a higher position so ya wouldn't have to worry bout the snow & ice buildup around em? 3.) Does those "artillian" wing ends come with the blade or do ya have to purchase them separately? Thankya again for this video. Still in shopping mode for the perfect "Johnny". Take care & God bless.
+Rodney Leonard you can get the wings at www.artillian.com. Also, Artillian sells a loader mounted quick hitch adaptwr so that you can attach this blade to the front of the loader.
Yes, artillian mount would be superior. If you get more snow than we get, it would help to pile it. Remember, the artillian mount is not ‘instead of’ but rather ‘in addition to’. So, you can start with this, then add the artillian mount later. See our website for an article on snow removal options for the 1-series.
Looks like you take off the 3Pt arms for more room in the garage. I've considered it for the winter, but seems to be more disassembly than I wanted to do when it turns cold here in OH, plus I am lazy.
I have my stuff sitting on a dolly like you have the bucket sitting on, drive up to it hook up the hoses & it will hook right up, no lifting. I have a front mount snow blower that I have to deal with. Could you show me a better pic of your bracket set up, I was told by the dealer that I have to change the 2 sets of brackets from the mower q tach brackets to the blower q tach sett up. thx
Hey Tim, good video. Have you tried any of the rear blades by frontier? You can pull or push snow and the rear 3 point hitch attachment is a lot easier for attaching. I'm trying to decide which would be better, as I already have the snowblower on the front.
I don't have much to add on this. Haven't used a rear blade for snow removal since I was a kid. A front blade is MUCH nicer. However, with the snow blower, not sure what I would recommend. I would suggest that you will have the quickhitch already attached, so switching from blower to front blade would be easy. Also, the cost will be much reduced because you already have the quick hitch.
They are 1 bad ass machine yours looks newer then mine its a 2014 i would love to get a plow for mine i got only the front loader bucket the drive over cutting deck and the backhoe witch is really nice.
+kris yakymac welcome, Kris! Thanks for watching, and thanks for your comment. Ours is a 2014 model as well. Check out our other videos for more details!
Tim, I just bought a 1026R with a 60" blade, do you know where I can get a rubber blade for it? I called the place you had recommended in one of your other videos and they only make it for the 54" -Tom
Thanks Tim for all your hard work and dedication sharing info related to the JD 1025r etc. I have a question on the snow blade without use of the Artilian additions. How should the feet adjustments be set? Flush with the bottom of the blade? Or should one leave a 1/2" gap from blade to driveway top?
You can run it either way. Whatever works for you. On concrete or asphalt, I use the Artillian rubber cutting edge, and I do not worry about the feet at all...I keep them way up out of the way. On rock surfaces, the feet must be down. I use the heavy hitch larger feet rather than those little standard feet which wear out quickly.
Do you know where the part number is on the rear part of the quick hitch? I got a used one off of a 1025r and it doesn’t seem to fit. Frame and quick hitch are 13 7/8ths wide on mine
Tim, did you get any shipping deals for the artillian products? Went to purchase the rubber blade and side extensions and had over $70 in shipping costs?
Tractor Time with Tim I had to send several emails in regards to their shipping quotes. After my 2nd communication I received a reply with a "reduced" shipping rate of $58.50. I still felt that was still a bit high, and asked it was possible to discount the product slightly to help offset the total. I asked Friday r that on Wednesday and I'm still waiting for a response. It seems that their customer service isn't a very high priority. To put things in prospective: I ordered my jd 54" blade, front quick hitch, hydraulic cylinder, mounting plates, jd imatch for my 3pt. and steering wheel spinner that was all shipped on a pallet to my garage for free with green dealer, yesterday. I just can't see how some rubber costs so much to ship.
agree with your comments I thought they were pretty light built, that and the fact that you can't really pile it up much made me put a plow on my loader
Liked the video very much..I just purchased a 1025r..with mower and loader...my question is ..does the frame bracket for the quick attach..have to come back off..to put the loader back on
I installed the brackets as you showed, however the first quick hitch piece is the same width as my frame and the bar that goes into the slots won't fit inside the frame. I have a 2019. I'll head to the dealer tomorrow to see what's up. I tried removing the mower brackets and replacing them with the plow brackets, but the brackets didn't drop down enough. I either need the space between the back holes and the bar slot to be 1/4 inch longer or the bracket holes to be 1/4 inch higher.
How about a back blade for your back drag tasks? I know it will add length to your tractor but maybe you don't need it all the time and they are cheap.
Tim I just bought a new x758 with a 54inch plow, its due to be delivered soon, I'm would like to know the width if the plow when angle fit down a 48 inch sidewalk. I see your has the extensions, mine will not have them. This a question I should have asked before I bought the thing but to late now.
I believe it will. I have mine put away now, or I could check for you. the problem with the blade when angled is that the tires run over snow. That is the reason for the extensions. It isn't just so we can 'get more done'...it is because the blade isn't wide enough to cover the tractor while angled. In your case, that sounds like the desired goal anyway, so you should be fine.
Tim, Love watching all your videos. I just ordered a 2025R and should be in about 3 weeks with the 120R loader. My question is you are putting that blade on and have the loader off. How hard is it to switch back and forth all year around I also want to used the blade in the summer for grading my driveway and pushing dirt leveling
+Thomas Bridges i don't recommend using that blade for dirt or rock work. The quick attach just isn't strong enough for that. I take the loader on and off multiple times per week. 2-4 min.
Tim, what are your thoughts on using the loader with a detachable 4way snow blade. That way you could use blade or bucket as needed. I have a 790 deere with an (old school) loader that doesn't have a detachable bucket, but has a 4ft blower on the back. I also have a kubota RTV x 1100c with a 6.5ft western V plow. The 1100c is new to me this winter and becomes my primary snowfighter because of the heated cab and the 790 becomes my backup snowfighter here in upstate NY
+willie Makit like your handle. I discuss the FEL mount blade on my website. For me, just not necessary. We don't get enough snow to use the main advantage (higher stacking). No heated cab here. Perhaps I can send Christy out to use the blade???
I have the 54" quick hitch snowblower. If I change from snowblower to snowplow would I need more than the blade (1492M) and the hydraulic kit (BLV10880) ? Will the front quick hitch work as is?
I've been commenting a lot lately haha. Do you know if they make a plow that attaches to the loaded arms? I think that's what my dad wanted to look into. Could be useful if we need to move piles in the winter
I purchased a 2009 X700 with a mower deck and snow plow last year it came with the deck installed when I started to mow for the season I played with the height adjustment knob a little but didnt seem to make much difference so i just relied on the wheels and was very pleased with the cutting job I have now taken the deck off and installed the blade height and angle are working fine Remembering the deck lift I asked around if it should be disengaged and was told to turn the height arm all the way up doesnt seem to do much I wondering if the knob is wore and not turning the shaft but the arms dont seem to move does hooking up the blade hydraulics some how disengage them How will I get the deck working and the height adjusted next spring
Is the snowblade you're showing from a x700 series or a 400 series? I have a 1025r that I would like to use my x700 snowblade on. It looks like you have a bracket to make this work. Where did you get the bracket?
Wish I'd know about the HH discount.I used the one from the forum and got 2.5%.Greg has great stuff,I wish he made a front weight bracket for the x series.
