Thank you for sharing this video. It is a great introduction to the operation of the Super Bronco. I have just purchased this model of Troy-Bilt tiller. This video has given me the confidence that I need to operate this piece of equipment safely and with confidence. Great job!
Excellent video. Very well done. I can't believe there is no mention of the pin in the axle. That's pretty critical. Not surprised the salesman didn't tell you. Thinking about buying one. Thank you very much.
That's not the throttle it is the Reverse. Read on the handle. It is so you can back up. MUST have tines OFF the ground when you do it. I bought one years ago and it came assembled and delivered to house. They didn't put the handle bars on right and they would slide down and up. So if yours does that you need to move those flat bars to the other side of where they are. Lowes couldn't figure it out. You can adjust them for your comfy zone if you short or tall.
Thank you for sharing this information. I was really struggling with this. Did not know to look at the wheels. Your absolutely right about this information not being in the manual. Thanks again for sharing
What a cheap-ass way to build something!!! This makes me appreciate my old Howard Gem a lot more! But then again, they were the best rototiller ever made on the planet!!! 3 speeds forward, one in reverse with a clutch! Shift it like a car or a tractor with a gear shift lever! Never having to do anything with that lynch pin on the axle! Yes, those are lynch-pins not Cotter pins. But you could use cotter pins if you wanted to. Troy-Bilt are not that great. Sorry. You should have checked out BCS tillers . They have more attachments for gardening/farming.
You are now my hero. I did not know that about the wheels and been pushing it without moving the wheels in place. It's been killing my shoulders. I thought I had to be doing something wrong and this is the only video/article I have found that explained adjusting the wheels.
Also, for transporting to and from, just lower the drag bar and it’ll drive without digging in. It’ll still turn the tines, so be careful. No need to pin wheels every time you move it. Thank you for showing this.
THANK YOU Kevin and Dearly! I never knew this, I've been starting my tiller just so i could move it from point A to B and they move soooooo slow so it took awhile to get it to the shed... THANK you, have a blessed day!
I bought my new bronco this past spring. But it was jumping Everytime I was tilting. Now by watching your video finally figured out what was the problem. I was tilting with free wheels. Not lock in place. Tomorrow I will try to use again. I was so disappointed when I first use it. Because I have a big horse tiller , than works great. Thank you so much to show this step before you till the soil. It is a life saver. Al. M
Does it come with those quick release wheel pins? My TB Mustang has bolt and nut? Also, my Mustang free wheels when placed in reverse. Is it supposed to?
I just wanted to say that I really do think she's just amazing! Entertainment personified. She should totally have her own TV show. Like I'd sit through some commercials to see what happens next! Just saying.
Man, I’m so glad I got a D.R. Power version of the same model, (big one) you could just switch it in neutral switch it in the reverse change the tine direction
OMG (as my daughter used to say) - I bought this tiller at Tractor Supply at a $400 discount (last years model maybe), it came with no instruction manual. I loved hearing you say it was useless! Anyway, I didn't know about the 'self propelled' mode!!! Can I send you some funding for providing your tutelage? Tell me where to send the funds and thank you (again and again)...
My TB Pony has no cotter pin, only bolt and nut. The assembly direction had the wheel put in outer hole but there is a shifter which you put in neutral to move to storage.
Excellent video. My tiller is similar. Model is 170-AUA. Not sure if your tiller has the same model #. I misplaced my manual so I can't remember what the oil capacity is? I've similar tillers with a different engine model # but those are saying 20oz. Was wondering if that's the correct capacity?
Strange when I look at the Operator's manual it explains how the wheels work on pages 8 and 9. Section 3 assemble and set up. Are you missing a page? but thanks for showing people.
Excellent video! So there's not separate controls for the drive wheels and the tine shaft? My Ariens snow blower has one lever for the drive wheels and another lever to engage the auger. Not having separate levers on a tiller seems dangerous and inconvenient -- am I missing something?
This video was GREAT, BUT, let me share this. The FREE WHEEL thing with the pin is important. However, I have a older version of this exact tiller, and here is what is happening to me. Mine is in the wheel LOCK mode, which is suppose to control this abrupt forward JUMP or movement, as this can be VERY DANGEROUS, however with my Troy Built tiller, even when the wheels are in the locked position, they ARE NOT preventing the tiller from jumping forward, which would mean something possibly in the transmission is allowing the thrust and pull of the blades digging in the ground is OVERPOWERING THE wheels in their locked position or controlled forward position and still allowing the tiller to jump violently forward, oh hell!!!!
I've had this about four months and have found it to be an aggressive and powerful rig. ru-vid.comUgkxjo0FLo5z3Y_qUcT3vSlOqpMaMdFjvsXa I've used several others in the past and the Sun Joe surpasses these, easily. I note that several people have commented that it bounces on rocky and compacted soil. I believe that would be the case with all tillers - the ground does need to be "broken", either with a larger tractor type unit or with a shovel, and rocks need to be removed. I'm living on a Pike silt loam here in the midwest and the Sun Joe turns my garden to bug dust in two quick passes. I use a technique where I do a short 2 foot run then pull it back and let it go over it again.
On the choke...mine starts cold on the first pull when the choke is full on. I did the same as you did putting the choke in the middle for about 20 seconds. Then I put the choke to the right full off. When I have the choke completely off, it starts surging, backfiring once in awhile. If I have the choke barely off just past the slanted, it runs smooth. What would cause this? I took an air hose and blew out the fuel line, cleaned out the fuel bowl, cleaned out the float port hole with a thin wire. It still surges and backfires if I have the choke completely off. Could the spark plug be bad? Would I have to completely take the carb off and clean it? Anyone who can help, thank you in advance.
Using shear pins to engage the wheels are the norm on just about all rear tine tillers. It pays to keep a spare set of shear pins on hand in case you have one to shear. To the new owners of these types of tillers a suggestion. Remove the wheels and apply grease to the axle shafts before you use the tiller for the first time. At the end of the season. Remove the wheels again, clean the axle shafts and wheel hubs, apply new grease and reinstall the wheels. This will prevent the wheels from seizing to the axles and make gear box repairs much easier. A lot of time if the wheel seizes to the axle. The wheel will be destroyed when trying to remove it.
first of all counter rotating tines suck, it looks like your digging a trench not tilling..i had a 90's pony till the handle bars broke..so i bought me a real machine a BCS 749
i got mine from my son for 500.00 used maybe 4 hrs,bigger is always better,not all the time,am getting older so its small, light and does the job its meant to do,the only neg remark i have is the handle and tiller guard is to thin,handle flexes,and the guard bends and flex,before i would pay 1100.00 dollars i would shop others,but its a good simple tiller,4.5 star out of 5
WOW! I was thinking about buying a new one of these, I have 2. One from the 80s, and a newer model. Both have a lever on the top to engage and disengage free wheel. My how these have changed. I don't think I want a new one now.
I had one of those. The tines turn forward when every other tillers turn backwards. When trying to break soil, it would stand on its tines, and take off.
I inherited a tiller like that. It didn't move. I could never find what is wrong with it so I soled it dirt cheap. I am now learning that I gave a way a perfectly find tiller. All I can say is shame on Troy for not highlighting this important point for their product.
The older troy bilts had a disengage lever so you could free wheel...don't know why they did away with that. Also this couple needs more practice it appears on how to till correctly!
Troy built poor design. I have a poulan put your transmission in neutral and roll wherever you want. Troy built is a much better tiller but that's a poor design point on them
You have got to be kidding me. Those design engineers should be tar and feather. I have a 40 year old troy Built horse when they were built in Troy New York and free wheeling is the easiest thing in the world.
Thank you sooo much for explaining the wheels. I literally just finished reading the owners manual to my brand new Troy-Bilt 15 mins ago, and it did not tell me anything about pulling the pins! Sure appreciate you.. happy gardening. Rick
Wow that’s great 😃 your guest really explains it very well, can’t wait to try one, only will have to get some land , since I live in an apartment in CA 😂 I used to live in Front Royal, VA long time ago, lots of yard work and loved all the seasons ❤️