Much easier to zero on the hole diameter and use the other side of the calipers to measure the hole to hole (outer edge to outer edge). Same concept but you can skip finding the screws.
To get rid of that roughness on the overhang replace the big fillet with a 45 degree chamfer and then smooth the transitions with fillets. Looks almost identical but without the roughness-inducing overhang angle.
I love chamfers for sidelining supports while getting great print quality. Fillets are great but fall short on larger diameters just before and through midarc. Like you said, round out chamfered edges with fillets and you get a decent compromise on the overhang where gravity works against printing.
This is class, being able to see the whole process from idea, to CAD model, through to the slicer and out of the 3D printer. Cannot tell you how long I've been waiting for someone to show the entire thing from start to finish. Nice office, too.
I'd recommend adding in all fundemental features (holes included) prior to applying fillets so you can roll back all of those curvy features to make modifications to core geometry and add in new features after the fact with ease. Modeling on complex and curved surfaces causes lots of unnecessary difficulty especially on more complex parts.
Adding the holes before the fillets would probably prevent the filet tool to work properly. Worth a try but sometimes it is a bit difficult to make it work on complex geometries.
I think he chose his order of features very carefully there. Large fillets like that can be VERY ornery in fusion. Sometimes the fillet edge can hit the border of another feature (like a hole) and the operation fails there.
Long time listener, first time caller. I'm self taught in F360. Spring of 2020 was when I first picked it up, and I'm always learning new things. This one video had me swearing out loud over how simple you did some of the things I go through significant effort to complete. Extrude from surface/object from a single sketch? No thank you. I'll just create a new sketch on that surface and copy/paste the edges into the new sketch. Holes? Edit the original sketch and draw a circle. Then extrude through it. Doing things the stupid way all this time, and you just blew my mind. I love your videos, your voice is great for voiceover work, your knowledge is next level, and your sense of humor is akin to mine. If I wasn't already subscribed, I'd subscribe again.
I agree, ive been going the long way around to produce easy things, now I've learned a few tricks here it will save me hours and clean up my confusing time line. Lol. Do more of these pls.👍😎🇬🇧
being able to see the whole process from idea, to CAD model, through to the slicer and out of the printer. I've been searching for someone to show the entire thing . Thank you
I love how your content is so varied. I have a huge problem with floating between interests in the shop, and your channel having a nice mix of topics is such a nice thing to look forward to every weekend.
James, thank you so much for your F360 tutorials! Your tuts are not only useful items but your teaching/illustration style is some of the best. Please keep ‘em coming.
I've never seen "tutorials" abbreviated to "tuts" before. Thanks for sharing that. However, my brain wants to say "tuts" aloud as "tuhts." So a "tuh-torial" just sounds off to me. The think of the word as being pronounced "too-tor-e-als" so that instantly compelled me to want to abbreviate to "toots" but I don't how well that would be recieved by others. This english language sure is something, ain't it? Sorry for the lengthy reply. 😁
@@glenj.taylor2938 Yes, the language is something! I would normally type things out instead of using contractions, especially when it's likely a lesser known contraction. I guess I'm just getting lazy in this age of text messaging and typing with my thumbs!
I'm sure youve done a few since this video. But watching you step by step in Fusion was an eye opener for me. I had no idea about the hole tool. Please use this format as much as you can in the future.
F360 takes a bit of training to get proficient with it, but once you get the hang of it, you appreciate how powerful it is and what new windows of creativity it can open, aka 3D printing to analysis and CNC. RU-vid content like yours and others for F360 training makes getting up to speed so much easier for new users.
I really appreciate all of the CAD content. I don't use Fusion, because of the rapacious pricing, but the great thing about all parametric CAD packages is that, if you can use one, you can use any of them with minimal effort. I can translate your design process and intent into the package I use with no problem, and I've learned a ton in the process. Thanks!
F360's personal use license is free for 3 years and has full features with a 10 document limit (you can have infinite documents, just 10 active at the same time). I like it becuase it's very easy to use, but I've been wanting to jump to another CAD software because fusion isn't available on Linux and it's the only program keeping me on a Windows machine. Which CAD are you using or would recommend?
@@aszher For Linux, FreeCAD is probably the best package going. It's an open source project under continuous development. FreeCAD has a great deal of functionality, but from what I've seen, the interface will take a little getting used to, coming from commercial Windows software. There are a lot of good RU-vid tutorials and pretty good documentation to help the process along.
Right away, 1:48 I learned something super useful that I never considered. Maybe I need to watch a "how to use calipers" tool because there are probably lots of things I hadn't considered.
Important note: *ALWAYS* add fillets and chamfers *AFTER* all your sketching, extrusion, etc.. Fillets and chamfers should always be the last thing you add to your model. Otherwise Fusion gets angry and can throw errors if you try to change your model and there are fillets/chamfers in the middle of the timeline.
WHAT A NICE TUTO! I´m a beginer in fusion and 3D stuffs, your video was so clear and simple that inrpiring me to move on. I was a little demotivated, must confess. Thank you!
This is quite a coincidence. I just designed my own headphones hanger for the exact same reasons approximately two weeks ago. My initial design idea was extremely similar to yours, including screw placement. I instead went with a boxier design where both screws go through the back behind the headphones at a slight downward angle, and I left a hole in the front of the hanger to pass a screwdriver through for the bottom screw. My headphones have a fairly large pad, so I made the front wall fairly tall to hold the plastic part in. My design is symmetrical, and I had wanted more curvature like yours, but some thin areas of the print made filleting hard. I still got some rounding on all the edges of course. The interesting and challenging part of my design is that my headphones are flat one the front of the band and have a curve like a banana on the back side. So I wanted the back of my holder to be flat and the front to match the curvature of the band. I wasn't sure how to accomplish this, so I actually dabbled with 3D sketching in Fusion 360 for the first time. There were definitely some interesting challenges with it. I learned a lot. Ended up using the surface modeling features of Fusion a lot where I would create a shape completely from sketch lines in 3D including curved lines and then patch them until there were no holes. I then had to use the stitch command to make it into a solid object like usual. I learned some nifty tricks from your vid I def could have used too. Thanks!
As a relative noobie to fusion 360, this is gold dust! Thank you 😊. Ive just designed my own, by using your excellent info... similar idea, but with a horizontal mounting bar, as its going into the edge of a 1" thick desktop.
7:10 holy crap I didn't know you could do that. I've been either drawing multiple sketches (when I didn't need to), or projecting geometry onto a new sketch.
Smooth curves are exactly what I need to work on in fusion 360. Perfect timing for me. Thanks love the videos and how you show the CAD to the parts you make.
James, when you are not busy we must get together and do a Vulcan Mind Mold, so I can obtain your CAD and Engineering knowledge. I'm a 65-year-old electronics tech(ret) and would love to do high-tech engineering stuff like you do. I was born too soon. Keep up the great videos I really enjoy them.🔫
Nice to watch people design a functional part. Fusion (with the name change this is going to make searching a pain), is agonizing to get right, when you do.. its simple. But it take practice. And thats why its nice to watch someone finish a part, the build guitars are great as well.
I audibly signed at the "one weird trick" part but I knew you wouldn't let me down. Oddly enough, I learned more from your other tips than your mention of the fillet tool. Calculating the distance 1:40 - 2:07 for example. TOTALLY makes sense but..for someone who is a "learn as you go" kind of engineer...well...these things don't just come to you. All that being said. Thanks for the video hopefully I can find a way this knowledge on!
Get rid of that seam, when ther is no need for it by disabeling (Z hob) "retract when layer change" in Printer settings under Extruder. You'll only have seams that make sense from there on.. switching between models for example Cheers and thank you for the spot on tutorial!
I've been using fusion for about a year now, and I always learn something new every time I watch someone else use it. I have never used the hole tool for making screw holes. I can't imagine how many hours I've wasted by manually countersinking holes and making chamfers in them.
As someone who is looking to get into Fusion, this is stellar on the detail. I love you clear you made it and I can’t wait to expand my skills using this as a learning tool. I can’t thank you enough for how great this is.
That looks really nice James. Just one tip from me, you can switch your 3d mouse into a 2d mouse for sketches, I find it a lot easier to look straight on a sketch. I use one of the two custom buttons to switch from 3d to 2d.
As a self taught (stumbling) Fusion user, your videos teach me along with pushing me to continue my quest of learning the software…thank you for sharing
Yes, Fillet function is your friend when you want smooth flowing transitions between faces like that. Granted I'm sure you know this James but in case not, and for others who don't, you can do that same center to center trick without the bolts by using the ID blades of the calipers in the holes themselves, ID measure the hole, Zero calipers, then just measure outer edge to outer edge between the two holes with the ID blades. Also what a lot people don't know is that this direct measurement trick only works correctly by itself if the two features are the same side (Same ID or OD depending on which way you do it). With that said, there is a pretty simple way to still do it when they aren't the same diameter. Simply measure each diameter, extrapolate the radius of each and then add the two radiuses together and zero the calipers at that number, then you can measure the center to center just as you would. Example, say that you have two round features, one 6mm and the other, say a 10mm. just add the radius of each (obviously 3 and 5 for this example) and open the calipers to that size and then zero them and measure just as you would
Yes, using the ID blades is possble, but I think that in this case that is not the easiest way to get the calipers in and handle them at the same time. On large flat parts I mostly prefer the bolt measurement because of this.
Nice tutorial. I'm a caveman when it comes to Fusion...brute force, multiple sketches, etc. I don't know 99% of the techniques you used here. I could have gotten this with 3 or 4 different sketches, and about 8 hours. Honestly, I'd LOVE many many more of these Fusion vids! You do a much better job of explaining things than most of the "Tutorial" vids, even those that are "For absolute beginners" because those tend to be "well, you already know 3D modeling, we'll skip all of that and model this Jet Turbine, and since everything is intuitively obvious, you just use the 300 tools we've never discussed and look at that, Robert is your mother's brother, it's done!". Sorry, way too many of these "tutorials" are exactly like that. I've used your tool holder video techniques so many times now. LOVE it...simple, a bit time consuming, and a bit tedious, but it just works! :) Thanks James!
as a novice, it's really cool watching some of these things that probably seem so simple to you. i didn't even know about the point option, much less the m6 pre-cuts for hole. thanks for the tips you didn't know you were providing in this video!
Kudos for explaining in simpler terms how to smooth rough prints, also the clearence option for metric holes in fusion is amazing, i didn't knew you could do that, just impressive how knowing to properly use the tools can make 3D modelling so fast.
Very good video, I have learnt a little more as I have just started with Fusion 360 and my Bambu printer. I bought it to print deck fittings for my 1/10 scale model of a Venice water taxi and so far the drawing/design and printing is going well but always keen to learn more. Cheers Ian, New Zealand
I've been using fusion for about 4 years purely as a hobbyist, and you've taught me two things here that I wasn't aware of, the hole tool for screw sizes and with space for the bolt head!!, how have I missed that. And also extrude from body, that will save me extruding 100mm then cutting 95mm ! Thank you!
"One weird trick". This has got to be my most despised phrase! Glad to see you were just making fun! Love your videos! Wish I knew 1/100th about Fusion 360 as you!
Awesome...Ive been himming and hawwing for months now, I might just have to break down and order the Bambu carbon, the parts are beautiful. Youre the first guy who has actually added the printer screen to the video, love it. Thank you.
Nice tutorial. I love these short ~ 15 min. tutorials. Even with my almost 20 years of CAD experience with different packages, there are always some of this little things that I pick up while watching them 👍 Putting the holes in before applying the fillets is one option but having too much geometry may interfere with putting on more complex fillets. Putting the holes in before applying the large fillet on the top would most likely have limited the size of the fillet.
this was so informative. and perfect timing considering i've just designed a headphone hanger with much more rudimentary skills lol. upping the gameeeee
Wow, been using Fusion 360 for the last few years and I learnt so many tricks by just watching this short 15 minute walkthrough. I have found ways to get Fusion to eventually do what I wanted but now with some of these steps I will be able to do it more easily. New subscriber!!
Thanks James. These practical tutorials are perfectly edited and are such a joy to watch and learn from. I always pick up at least one trick I didn’t know, and every time that new trick is another game changer for me in my designs. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
James, another thank you! I just used this tutorial to make my own headphone hook, although with a different mounting method. Your video made it all make sense and I've learned some valuable new Fusion techniques. Please keep this type of content coming.
Thank you! I’ve been wanting to see your method and also which mice you like to use when in Fusion360. I learned a few things from your concise tutorial even tho I’ve been using it for 2 years.
I’ve been using fusion for years and only know I’m learning about the Hole feature ! (And also the trick with the calipers!!) Crazy content, thank you !
I'm just adding my voice of support for the 3D tutorials. I wouldn't like to see the channel evolve into a 3D but showing how these and other small parts are done is very handy to us beginners who consider a washer a challenge 😞
Thanks for sharing this. Fusion to me is like when I learned Photoshop so long ago. Nothing is really _hard_ but it isn't exactly intuitive either what tools to use when. I've enjoyed all your videos for what you make but I've especially enjoyed when you take the time to work through your Fusion design process. Thanks again.
Looking good, James. I would probably use a contrasting color for the hanger just so it is visible enough that you won’t miss it when placing the headphones in their home, but since this is a daily use for you after a week you probably won’t even look at it when storing/retrieving the headphones.
huge fan of PC here, I've printed nylon for some automotive engine bay stuff, because it has a slightly higher heat tolerance, but the shiny indestructible rigidity of PC just feels so much better. It doesn't need a fancy nozzle or composite fillings to be rigid either. If you get to trying different build plates, I've found that PC prints extremely well on an FR4 plate. It sticks so well that you can see an indentation in the plate where it was after printing.
@@adamchambers7502 oh I know, PLA is pretty great for that as long as it doesn't get warm. Its definitely just placebo effect when I'm holding the part in my hands. Whole different story when they get warm though.
Great tutorial! An easier way instead of taking measurements of the headphones is to take a picture , import canvas in fusion , and calibrate the image by clicking on two points and entering a known measured value. This scales everything proportionally and then u can create geometry around that in a sketch
Tipp for exporting into the slicer: Bambu slicer does handle obj files so you can use that to not get problems with the stl making your print less round than you designed it.
Can confirm PC is great for durable parts. I have a 1/10th scale RC truck that I ended up printing gears for just a an experiment and the PC gears are the only ones that stood a chance(I did not try ABS or Nylon). It definitely has it's limits but the limits are much higher than PETG and standard PLA
You can 'save' a little bit of resolution in your prints by not going to a .STL file. Fusion can go directly to .3MF for Bambu Studio. File -> 3D Print. Select object. Choose format of .3MF, and tell it to automatically open in Bambu Studio. No intermediate file needed.
Maybe not your normal type of video but can you go into more detail on the X1 regarding two things: VOC control and preventing warping with ABS and PC. That is if you do anything special. You might be lucky and just use a big brim and everything works out fine.
Good stuff. I’d recommend using stp files instead of stl. I’m not sure how many slicers will do it, but bambu’s definitely will. You’ll get smoother prints in a lot of cases (no triangles/facets). Also, stp files are just so much nicer to work with (to modify, to check fitment in an assembly, etc), so I’m really hoping the whole industry goes that direction.
Use the adaptive layer height to get the next level of curve smoothness. That also helps on the overhang side too. Did you also have the same type of overhang artifacts with the X1C too?
