I really like how your entire drive and electronics are contained in the red brick on the back and the rest of the bot is basically an add-on where you just connect the motors and battery, screw it together and it's a bot. Very cool design! Bots with actuated spinners make me happy, it's not just touch the other bot with your weapon and it dies and it just feels like bots like this or hammersaws just give way more exciting matches from the added control aspect. Not just linear punchers like the new Shrapnel Mine but also for example Team Get Wrecked' Esper bot with the 4 bar puncher. Keep innovating!
I don't think it's really that similar to tantrum other than the punching spinner. But I guess that's the only well-known punching spinner robot. There have been others at small scale before too but none exactly like Shrapnel Mine
Such a cool concept! The CAD looks amazing and I enjoy seeing new designs (I don't find CAD boring, espectially with a good voice over explaining your thought process). Thanks for the awesome content!
so excited to see more people experiment with the puncher concept. I think Tantrum really hit on something with this and the design has loads of unseen potential (that is, as much unseen potential as a giant nut-winning bot can have at least :V)
i like the design! make up for the lack of bite on the twin tooth blade by adding a punching system instead of using a 1 tooth blade, simply brilliant!
Interesting to see a trademark feature of a heavy go downwards into a smaller class bot cos usually it's the other way round (lol). Anyway, I had a thought for a flipper using something similar to the slider mechanism you have, would be interesting to see someone give it a go.
Yes please for a video on CNC madness ordering. Maybe even one for planeform as well. I’ve thought about using those services but the process was confusing me. Also would it be possible to add machining to your 3d printing service or is that not in the cards at the moment.
Machining is super labor intensive and my CNC is sort limited in what it can do. I considered it but CNC Madness offers some amazing prices that are hard to beat. I might reevaluate sometime in the future though.
That's pretty nice to be able to mount the hub motor only on one side but I guess you're having to endure less horizontal load because it's not sitting out the front all the time. Lovely robot.
I mentioned this later in the video, the next batch of 5022 motors will have a redesign to make them more robust when mounted on only 1 side. This current version has almost no support on the far side bearing but it did the job shockingly well considering!
Switching from a ten tooth pulley to a twenty tooth pulley for more speed reminds me of a spiral pulley. Meaning a variable radius pulley. High starting torque, constant acceleration and high ending speed.
Considering that the belt is already attached to the carriage and your cog belt has limited travel anyway it might be possible to eliminate the cog pulleys and attach the ends of the belt or cord to two spiral pulleys next to each other on the motor shat. One pulley pulling in, the other letting out. Using cord attached to a narrow regular pulley and just letting the cord rap over it’s self would get the same affect as a spiral cam. This has been done successfully before. So it’s an idea.
Sorry no. But I did make up a crude drawing and verified that it would work. Estimating that the puncher has 75mm of travel the cam pulley would vary from 10mm radius to 20mm radius in 290 degrees. That is 29 degrees per 1mm increase in radius. With two pulleys clocked 180 degrees from each other. 80 pound Kevlar fishing line is 0.43mm diameter so at 1mm diameter it should hold about 400 pounds so the axial offset would be minimal.
I actually like looking at the CAD drawings. The color coding makes it easier to see the individual parts. For the puncher drive you want a high starting torque drive not just high speed. You want high acceleration not high top end speed. Like you know; a 25 mph robot in an 8 foot arena doesn’t get it. And you have how many inches to accelerate in? Torque means amps; high amps in a short time means low induction. Sometimes increasing the gear ratio will increase the acceleration. Which gear does your car accelerate the best in, first or fifth? This is not intended to be a solution, just a reminder of the theory. I appreciate your channel 👍
Two questions, one about the Blitz Pro, the other about the bot: Are the Blitz Pros compatible with your dual ESCs? And wouldn’t some kind of shuffler mechanism for drive help make weight, or would that make the drive too heavy? (Or is the shuffler bonus just an NHRL thing)
The Blitz Pros do not work with any brushed speed controllers only brushless speed controllers. So my WEKA will not work. However I am working on a custom brushless ESC for them, and I sell single ESCs pre programmed for them which are basically plug N play. Shuffler bonus would mean more weight but it's getting reduced to 25% and the added complexity isn't always worth it.
Did you consider using motor braking on the rail drive ESC not only to slow it down when hit but also regenerating some power putting it back into the battery?
I never used more than about 45% of my battery during even a 3 minute long fight. Turning on regenerative braking for brushless speed controllers can cause a lot of voltage spikes and weird problems so I just left it disabled.
Weird thing I noticed with my ant: Momentum is what launches opponents, which looks more impressive to judges and is more likely to unplug internals. Kinetic energy is what causes armor directly in contact with the weapon to fail. Momentum is I times Angular Velocity. Kinetic Energy is 1/2 times I times Angular Velocity squared. So, the tiny 55g frisk on my ant at 19k RPM is great at leaving scars in my opponents wedge, but can barely flip opponents over. I assume a puncher spinner like yours will be similar.
It should be a mix of energy and bite. I definitely need to put more than the bare minimum effort into my weapon design for the next version tho. I kinda threw this one together as it was something I knew would work and was a bit heavier than the single tooth blade on my ant.
For 4-in-1 ESCs I like having a cheapo betaflight-compatible drone flight controller handy -- then you can just plug the connector between the flight controller and the ESC, plug the flight controller into USB, and use the betaflight passthrough to do ESC config stuff on all of the ESCs at once with the normal ESC config app. (just make sure the FC and ESC plugs are compatible.. sometimes they may be same size but you have to re-arrange the pins, which is pretty easy with a needle or something to lift the tab)
@@JustCuzRobotics You really don't really need to deal with betaflight, but having it on the flight controller (that probably comes with it) allows the easy peasy ESC passthrough.
Depending on the firmware it runs you can also programme an Arduino as a 4 way programmer, then hard wire it to a cable that matches the plug on the ESC. Then you can heatshrink the whole lot and just unplug the receiver and plug in the programmer when it's needed.
It's complicated. Best thing is buy a cheap power meter and a battery of the correct voltwge and test current draw from the weapon system as that's usually 90% of the power used if it's a spinner robot. If it's not a spinner 300mah is fine.
I use those 4 in 1 ESC's in mine and I just made up a breakout PCB board that you just unplug the receiver and plug it in. then just plug the programmer into the breakout board to program the Each of the ESC's
Might try to do that early next year, but my main focus is on Sonic right now. There's only one full combat ant-weight competition that I can really get to easily and it's held in Hartford about 3 times a year
