Detail Shadows 

I love that you put The Shadow in the video...it went over probably 95% of the iewers, but I got it..nice.

BRILLIANT! Thanks so much. Best model-building channel on RU-vid.

Thank you for producing this wonderful series of videos.

Another night of sleep loss due to the thought provocation of this gentleman ! A true boundary pusher

Excellent as always! Paul, please note: Tamiya orange cap cement and the yellow cap "Mr cement deluxe" are NOT "slow" cements. They contain resin and are used to glue and simultaneously fill hairline gaps. That's why they dry leaving this thick film. They are intended to be applied between and not under parts. They are safe for transparent parts also.

This video gave me the strongest "why didn't I think of that"-experience of 2018.

Lost for words... great tips.

A class in the simple looked at again.Really understanding what is being observed and improved simply.Genius.!✅👍.

Great video. I could sit and watch these all day.

I only wish you and youtube were around 20years ago, so I could learn techniques here

Beautiful video as always. Interestingly, there are some modelers, who consider the presence of gaps being a poor modeling skills in action, rather than proper appearance. Most definitely your approach worth considering. Thank you!

I’m at the beginning of N Scale model railroading and trying to learn all the techniques to the craft/hobby - your videos, although not directly related at times, provide a lot of insights and show how discipline and patience can make all the difference...Anthony

Hey Paul, another great video. It's all good common-sense stuff that we should be using and thinking about on our own builds, yet I'm finding that I'm not doing all of them... great ideas and great reminders. Please keep them coming!

VERY interesting! I didn't realize that Tamiya has such an extensive line of plastic cements. I also appreciated your comments on sanding. The accidental creation of a radius has been a problem for me.

This is the first RU-vid modelling channel I have come across with actual useful information. Please keep it up! I need to know what you know!!

Thank you so much for such insightful and practical techniques to employ in plastic model building. It is so rare to find and much appreciated. Perfect for me, a modeler returning to the hobby after many years.

Thanks for making these educational videos for us! This channel is like a gift that keeps giving. Best wishes for the new year! 😀

Food for thoughts :) Thanks alot!

Modelbuilding masterclass......

Many good tips. Turning the clock to face the wall was a good way to start. Made me wonder if the WW2 Russian tank models you may be building would have a higher gap tolerance and therefore look better built than the actual tanks.

Great video presentation and modelling techniques, much better than some rancid music in the background

Thanks for another great informative video.

Excellent video. I just stumbled upon your series of videos and love them all. Thank you and keep up the good work. 😄

Great video so much detail please keep them coming thank you

Another great video, Paul! Thanks for making these!

Thought provoking

Great ideas.👍👍🇨🇦

Great tips, masterful skills and a first class guy. 😉👍

like always good advise plz keep them coming

I'm at the start of a tank project. I'm going to try your techniques on the hatches. Thanks.

Another great video, but from what I've understood about Tamiya cements is that green capped cement only softens the plastic and consists mostly (if not only) of solvents, whereas orange cap has adhesives (most likely also some amounts of solvents, but not nearly as much as in green cap) and adheres the two parts together. I believe these two cements are comparable to welding and soldering, but I might also be completely off in this case.

Yet again one of these videos leaves me feeling sheepish for not having ever conceived of one of your techniques. What you did with the T-34 drivers hatch seems so clever in retrospect! I will be playing with that application immediately!

Where the bogeys attach to hull on MkIV i like to 'lose' a few bolts,here and there.And the T34 rearplate looks better if you flatten the bolt heads at different angles,and use scalpel to define bolts from plate.Plastic magic,small brush,cross between Revell contacta and ET

10/10 the shadow reference

awesome video. I just subscribed to your channel sir!

Brilliant video.

Good video thanks Paul 👍🇬🇧

Thanks for sharing!

A true master!

Great tips!! Yes Sir

I learned a lot.

Great video, tnks

This is masterpiece!

I luv your videos sir!

wow, impressive

1st rate as usual!

great video, thank you. just one thing: doesn't that hatch @ 4:28 that you rounded to split it from the main body appear a bit out of scale? won't this tecnhique make separate details look like too much separate?

Where can one get .0015 " stainless shims on the cheap? Seems to be rather expensive from what I could find.

NIce !

great video with some interesting things for me to try out. but having seen several t-34 up close all i can say is the russians where not that bothered about panel gaps, the general fit and finish on these things is dreadful.

Did anyone else see "The Silver Shroud" in the shadowy figure?

If you can't find thick Tamiya cement, Testers works fine.

I had never thought of this technique but it seems so obvious!... Thank you for such an amazing demonstration. If you have a spare few minutes I'd really appreciate it if you could check out the latest video on my channel. It's regarding the chamfering of edges in scratchbuillding. I would very much like your opinion on the video and also any advice you could offer in regards to the actual technique. Thank you Paul.