“Deep Water Soloing” or “Psicobloc” is something I’ve obsessed over since I first saw Chris Sharma throwing huge dynos in Mallorca over the Mediterranean Sea.
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I grew up cliff jumping everyday after high school in Pennsylvania. To be able to combine cliff jumping with climbing has been a dream. Whenever I got a chance I would play around climbing barefoot on small cliffs next to water. In Kalymnos, Greece I got my first real taste of deep water soloing and was able to climb bigger cliffs with climbing shoes. This route in Independence Pass, Colorado was the first time I was able to project anything over water.
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I would bring as many shoes as I could so that I could climb as far as I could get before falling into the freezing water. Then, I would dry my hands, stop shivering and put on a new, dry pair of shoes to try as hard as I could to get further.
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I began to doubt myself, asking if I’d be able to send it. Often times I felt stupid going there by myself to project this strange style of climbing that hardly anyone practices, all for a grade that I could probably climb in a day if it were on ropes. Eventually I sent and I’m very proud.
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I only sent once. I didn’t expect it so I didn’t set up a camera. Right before I started the final attempt I Asked some guys who were cliff jumping if they could film if I happened to get close to the end. All other shots of the last part of the climb were done from out of the water or after downclimbing a rope.
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I have yet to find any information on this route. I know that the last part is called “Aquaman” and goes at 5.11c (6c+). What I did was a traverse into Aquaman, the crux being before the start of Aquaman. I believe it is a 5.12a (7a+). I highly doubt that this is a first ascent...but that would be sick. If anyone else knows what the grade of this route is please let me know!
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Music:
PIMP Bacao Rhythm & Steel Band
2 окт 2024
