Thanks for this deep dive. I’m a new woodworker that got this saw and building confidence in using it. You made a point that as a newbie i totally screwed up. Without much through i plugged my vac and my saw into a close by outlet which blew what was a 15A breaker. Well that same breaker was running my shop lights so 2/3 through a cut not only did i loose power i also went into a pitch black shop! Live and learn! Just today i was digging through my garage outlets and found a fully unused 20A circuit. I do have the festool vac at almost 1800w (15A) so i guess to let the festool engage the vacuum when i turn on the saw will need something like a 30A circuit. I’m reaching out to my electrician to come out and figure out what to do, but until then my shop lights are on one breaker, the saw on different breaker and the vac on a third breaker. It’s a pain. Thanks for the video. Feeling like I made a good choice getting this saw.
Great deep dive--I love all the tech geek analysis of tools that capture the essential performance of the tool. I'm sure a lot of mobile work people will appreciate this a lot!
Hopefully there aren't too many nitpickers about the cross cut at 11:10--ironically, the next video youtube popped up after this was a cross-cut sled build by Marc!
Yep, there are always some safety cops lurking. I wouldn't make that cut if it was a through cut, and it is generally acceptable to do that on a non-through cut. I probably wouldn't make that dado cut on a cross-cut sled.
@@ToolMetrix I need to figure out how to get manufacturers to send you every piece of equipment that I'm considering so that I can get all the technical details that I care about and you'll never find in literature or most reviews. Let me know who to email! :-)
You nailed a couple of my complaints on this saw! It has nice on board storage for everything except a saw blade or two. The other is no locking mechanism for blade height. In fact, I wish it had separate controls for tilting the blade and raising the blade. It’s sorta awkward the way it is designed, but it is usable. Mine came completely dialed in when I got it. The only thing i had to adjust is the indicator for how far the fence is from then saw blade. It was a very minor adjustment. Other than that is a great saw. Appreciate your thoughtful analysis! Thanks!
I watched the unboxing video. Questin is, do you happen to have the model of the stand? I have rolling stand and would like to switch it to x stand. Thanks in advance.
Like Big Crunch I have the rolling version.. I put a wide piece of blue painters tape on the miter and it took all the looseness out of it. Have had my saw for 4 years and it still performs great.
Hello my friend. Dewalt is a good brand. The table saw needs to be maintained from time to time. Thank you for the deep dive review. Stay healthy and happy. Thank you for sharing. Greetings.
Hey, at 8:24 you are demonstrating the thin fence. Are you able to put the square (or something flat) on the fully extended fence with thin fence set as a support/extension? Does it look leveled with the surface of the table? On mine, rails are sagging and that results in a dip. Especially when the fence is on the left hand side. Even moving the fence itself (left hand side) on the table's surface feels like dragging. Are you btw aware of a fix for that? Thanks
Hi Luktish, I didn't experience this problem. I would think that it's adjustable, but I don't recall for sure. It's been a long time since this saw was in my shop. Thanks for watching. Cheers.
@@ToolMetrix you're right. Just tried the middle screw/lock. You can loosen it up and adjust the thin fence up or down. If I adjust the fence to be leveled with the surface of the table, then I need to readjust again the screw for the setting where the thin fence lays down on top of the table. Otherwise it sits a bit above the surface of the table. The tricky part is to keep it square, due to the pivoting action on the screw. I can live with it I guess... Thanks
GREAT VIDEO! just got this exact saw.. put it together and went through everything.. what on earth is the plastic half square on the right side of the saw?... its on the lower cross support of the saw ..the stored riving knife is basically pointing at it... it looks like it has notches for something to clip in... but nothing in the directions points it out... thanks in advance!
I really like your review but your observation about blade storage is a bit unreasonable. Thats why you have a shop and places to keep your extra blades etc. Even if you are using this on a job site and want things as compact as possible, you cant have it all. Either way, your presentation is fantastic and very thoughtful. Thumbs up. Looking for more stuff from you. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Nice review. I’ve been in the market for a good table saw but was disappointed with the 7942 as I could not get the fence at 90 degrees to the table. Not sure if I was just unlucky but it went back to Dewalt twice and couldn’t be fixed. You didn’t test this so would be interested in how yours is as I still favour the Dewalt.
I didn’t test with a square but the resaw tests that I performed would have identified any problems with that. I believe it was perfect, as I was amazed by how consistent the boards were when I resawed them.
Nice video. I’m looking for a table saw to do basic woodworking. ( finish my rough original construction basement steps, build a basement bar, wall framing, etc) what table saw would you recommend? Thanks
If you need portability this is a good option. Bosch makes a nice portable as well. If you can go stationary I like the new Laguna saws, or Jet. The Ridgid hybrid saw is nice too, and decent value.
@@ToolMetrix Hi ToolMetrix thank you for your quick response very much appreciated absolute gentleman. Would it be possible for you to video the bevel mechanism so i can see in detail how the mechanism works does it work by trunnions and toothed quadrants or does it work in a different way. I will be looking forward eagerly to your reply. Thank you
@@ToolMetrix Thank you for your quick response very much appreciated. Do you know how the mechanism work or would you be able to point me in the right direction to find out
Great video!! I want to be able to check things like run out and table flatness when I purchase mine. I know that sometimes QC can be inconsistent and want to make sure I purchase one that doesn't have issues right out of the box - especially table flatness. Would you be able to recommend some accurate (though still relatively affordable) tools such as straight edge, etc to ensure the table is flat, blade runout is corrected, etc. Thank you.
Hi Tommy, thanks for the feedback and for your question. I just added to the video description a list of the measurement and setup tools that I used for testing this and other tools. If I missed anything, or if you have questions, let me know. Cheers, Paul
Did you use a 6” dado blade set or an 8”? Great review like always! I’d love to see you do a deep dive/review on a Makita LS1219L sliding compound miter saw I absolutely love that saw
Hi Parker, thanks for your feedback. It was a 6” Freud. The only one that I have. I’ll take a look at that saw. My “traveling” miter saw is a Makita 10” non-slider. I really like that saw. I’m a Makita fan although I don’t currently actually own many of their tools.
Hi Thomas, unfortunately I didn't measure that, so I can't tell you specifically, but I can speculate FWIW. It would be "about" an inch of protrusion of the dado stack above the table, if that's what you're asking. A 10 blade has a 5" diameter and protrudes about 3" above the table. A 6" dado has a 3" diameter, so it would protrude about 1" above the table. The saw has sufficient power to take a full depth cut, but you'd have to take it slow in hardwoods, particularly if you are using the full width stack.
@@ToolMetrix Thank you for the quick reply. I was just interested in the cut capacity of a 6" set (half the size for a radius). It occurred to me that a 6" dado set at the max height may be too shallow a cut but I don't really see a cut deeper than an inch (and that's pretty deep).
I didn't see you put a square on the fence of this saw. When I got mine, the fence leaned severely towards the blade, about 1/8" making the saw totally inaccurate and horribly dangerous. The Dewalt service center spent 3 months trying different saws and fences and were unable to produce a saw with a straight fence that didn't lean. I can only conclude from that that there is a problem at the factory, and they are making many saws with this defect.
@@ToolMetrix This was a brand new unused saw. The dewalt service center could not repair it, and ordered 3 more new saws and many new fences, all were defective. There is no fence adjustment.
@@ToolMetrix Thanks, but this just proves that there is a factory defect that producing inaccurate saws. People adding makeshift fixes like wedging nickels into the track system is unacceptable. Dewalt needs to correct their fence problems. A lay person with no knowledge of checking tools for accuracy could be in serious danger.
If the fence is warped that's a problem. It the fence is misaligned and it cannot be adjusted, then I would consider that a problem as well. If it just needs to be adjusted, and the design provides the ability adjust it, then I wouldn't consider it as defect. I set up a lot of power tools, and more often than not, something needs to be adjusted.
It's a splitter with anti-kickback pawls. It's just stored under there. You would use it when you don't want to use the blade guard but still want to use a splitter.
Great question. I wish that there was a lower amp option. They could make the saw with a 7" blade so that it didn't require as much power. Carpenters would love that.
