Diagnosing A Generator That Has No Power Output. 

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It will be the same wires going to the AVR. Yours should just have the black inline booster.

Most low voltage conditions on generators are simply due to a low engine rpm. So your engine rpm should theoretically run @ around 3600 rpm which will produce 120/240 volts @ 60 HZ. So when you applied 12 volts into it you got 60 volts when testing? It also could be a bad capacity which will result in a low voltage reading from the generator as the power being generated will be from the residual magnetism of the rotor (usually about 2-5V). To test a capacitor, a multi-meter that can test capacitance is required. To test a capacitor, it must first be removed from the generator and discharged. Be careful when removing the wire leads that a short is not created across the capacitors terminals. (Videos out there on how to discharge a capacitor. Some just say use a screwdriver with an insulated handle to cross the terminals on the capacitor (this will result in a loud pop and a spark). Once discharged, take a reading from the capacitor. The measured capacitance should be +/-5uf of the specified rating printed on the side of the capacitor. If not, the capacitor should be replaced.

What make generator and modelis it? is it 110 volt only or a 220 volt? Does it have a switch to change from 110 v to 220 v if so check that switch. Also check the circuit breakers or reset buttons to ensure there not tripped. Is the GIF reset on the outlet? I'm guessing your talking about a 110 volt plug that either the top or bottom half works. When you replaced the outlet did it have 2 or 4 wires going into it? All the other plugs work?

The generator is a Coleman Powermate PM0543000.01. No switches to switch between a 110v and a 220v. The circuit breakers nor reset buttons have been tripped. Yes a 110v plug and one side does not work. The new plug that I replaced it with is the same, 4 wire. The generator only has one double outlet totally. Any help would be appreciated as it is new, but was not taken out of the box for quite a few years. Just puzzled why one side of the out let works and the other end doesn't. The receptacle is a 120 v, 20 ampere duplex receptacle.

So since it has been sitting it may have lost its residual magnetism on one leg. So lets try and "flash" that side and see if that works. So what you will want to do is start the generator let it run for a minute or so and then grab a CORDED drill. Plug it into the NON working outlet. Make sure the drill is in the forward position/ going in the forward direction and then squeeze the trigger on the drill and spin the head of the drill backwards 5 or so times then let go of the trigger for the drill wait 5 seconds or so and then pull the trigger on the drill and see if it works.

You want to start the generator and let the engine idle/ speed stabilize and then hook the Negative lead to the battery for the entire time while testing the two wires. So to recap generator running stable engine idle, then hook up negative lead to the battery, then test the two wires, unhook negative lead from battery and then shut off generator. You want to have a min of 60vlts. Those 60vlts would go to the AVR where it boosts up the excitation to the field of the generator to maintain the terminal voltage. 120v / 220v.

Ya I had some push on clips for another project so I used those instead of alligator clips. You can use either but I figured more people would have alligator clips rather then push on clips or the female spade connectors.

Did it confuse you?

For as long as it takes you to test the wires with the volt meter.

Proper level of oil in it? It could be a bad low oil cut of off switch. Not sure if it has a high level coolant cut off switch as well which if they coolant gets to hot will also shut it off. I am not sure what the proper RPMs for that generator is supposed to be.. If its not running at the correct RPM's it will give you low voltage.

ya that's what I would do.

You can try "Flashing the generator" if that doesn't do it, it could be a "faulty diode" if you google either one it will give you an idea on how to flash / replace that riode

+TheDIYGuyDOTnet I tried that with a drill but no luck

TheDIYGuyDOTnet

+Paul Thomas That is the 12v battery method. You can try the electric drill Method.. Plug in an electric drill into the generator receptacle, If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward position next Start the generator. While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in reverse direction. This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the reverse switch positioned backwards. Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck. As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and the drill will turn on. The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generator receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.

TheDIYGuyDOTnet .