THANKS.. a lot. Facing this problem RIGHT NOW. But did NOT want to "dig in" without some experienced, REAL true and tried advice. This really helps....boosts the confidence factor a lot. Bad weather here now - will go at it when the weather takes a turn. THANK YOU. YEAH...others have said,.. I will too.. "keep more videos like this coming." TY so much.
What you do to test the leads is you “pop one off “ while your assistant turns the engine over you put one end in your mouth . If you die it means the leads are good 🤣
It's understood that this test is focused on diagnosing a faulty coil pack, but it also applies to any gasoline-operated engine, to check for the reason why a cylinder is not firing. This was a great guide though, Craig. Keep more videos like this coming.
Well done. I have a P0300 random misfire. Dealer said IGM is bad. I will be replacing that but I will run through this process to see if I can see this in person.
good thing my pacemaker didn’t get fried. when i removed the wire it zapped me and knocked me down. the paramedics said when i split my head open from the fall, the jolt restarted my heart. otherwise good camera work on your film here
Good video, but the substance you want to apply to the module is heat sink compound, not dielectric grease. I made the same mistake nearly. Heat sink compound transfers heat away from the module, which gets surprisingly hot in use. Dielectric grease seals and prevents electricity transfer, and does not transfer heat. I get my heat sink compound from Radio Shack.
This video was great, I have a 2006 Buick Allure with the 3800 V6 engine it helped me immensely, I’m thinking my issue is the ignition module plate, all of my coils seem to be fine, but there doesn’t appear to be power going to the bottom coil.
Dude, I comment you, great video. My car ran rough in the AM but after work no start. After pumping gas it started but was running rough. No spark at coil pack 3/6 but spark at other coils. Thought for sure a bad coil pack, i bought and installed...wrong. After seeing your video I believe my problem will be the ignition module. Left car at work will purchase module in the AM. I am really hoping this is my problem..will keep you posted...you all.
Exactly. You MUST USE THERMAL COMPOUND between the module and mounting bracket. If you do not you will most likely burn out the replacement icm. Having some white compound on hand(i prefer the gamer compound thats grey its dirt cheap on amazon and ebay and wish) is much cheaper than blowing a 100 dollar plus module.
I'm trying to change the throttle position sensor. It's such a tight space I managed to break off part of the screw. Any ideas how to get better access? I'm sure the car won't run right if it only is mounted with 1 screw. I am going to use screws with heads for wrenches, The screws were really hard to get to.
i have a 97 buick lesabre i bout 3 coils and at the same spot the 1 coil is not working but it started acting right again then now its doing the same thing
Note...disconnecting battery will reset radio. If you have one with code it's better to spend 25 bucks for a cheap reader and clear/erase codes with that. Radio presets may clear and trip meter. Odometer will stay, but zero's out trips.
There are 2 kinds of replacement parts. Replacement & used car dealer replacement parts. Used car dealer replacement parts don't last & are built for price not longevity.
Just went through this with my 05 LeSabre. Only thing I would add is, after you find the non-functioning coil pack, take them all off and put them in different positions, put the plug wires back on correctly, never mind the now wrong numbers on the coil packs. Then recheck. If the same position coil pack is "dead", then you know that aint it. Would have saved me 38.00! I even swapped some plug wires to make sure that wasn't it. So, new plugs (should have seen the old ones, rotten!!!!), one unnecessary coil pack, and one module, I'm in business!! Now about that dieelectric grease, didn't have or use any. Think I'll have a problem?
So what if u have no power when u turn the key forward no dash lights nothing. I've changed the fuel pump relay, ignition switch and the tumbler nothing. 3800 oldsmobile 98.
Most of the crap you buy for your car on eBay is made in crappy crap crap China. It's junk that's why it's so cheap you get what you pay for most of the time I'm not saying if you go to your local AutoZone or Advance Auto cuz they mostly sell China s*** to. It's all f****** cheap and it's all cheap crap. But we let those people sell us those cheap crap in this country because of the big businesses used to make a lot of money. Now since Trump did the tariffs on China they're getting us back. And if you don't know that this virus is man-made well then you're idiot absolutely idiots if you don't think that this virus is man-made
I din't want to know your l problem. first the coil packs I need to know the # on each of them.so I know how to put each wires on the right coil like the coil at the radator is it 2 at the right of the coil 5 at the bottom of that coil.U left me guessing.
They are in pairs. 1&4, 2&5, 3&6. The ignition control module fires BOTH plugs on any particular coil together (often referred to as "waste spark" - you can google it if you are interested in a detailed explanation). So you could reverse the wires on the same coil without issue, but do NOT mix wires from 2 different coils. Different model cars may have the coils in different orders, depending on how they fit in the engine compartment, so it is best to look up the order of the coils online.
Thats why you pull the wires one by one and mark them. The original coilpacks take the guesswork out if they are not moved. Just mark the new coils appropriately with white out.
I'm real sorry but you seriously shouldn't ever remove a wire while idling 2 diagnose ignition miss because you can seriously get shocked if there's a wire strand,, use noid light or test light, mann I hat watchn people do that, its quicker but dumb at same time,, use your head be careful
