He doesn't need a million subs. He has a high engagement community. Having 100k subs that are active is better than a million subs that aren't invested.
As you open and close each drawer and display how neat, tidy, and intricate your tools are - i slowly find myself questioning every basic decision i've ever made in my 30 years of existence.
The paint depth gauge is nice to have. Good to check the inside of the door jambs and use it as kind of a minimum baseline. You can get one that is plenty good for around $130. I have the CEM DT-156 and I like it a lot. I have a quick overview of it on my channel if you want to check it out. If that paint is hard I highly recommend the Rupes UHS pads and polish, it is simply amazing for hard clear.
When you said you don’t know if the pad claw thingy does anything... After blowing my pads I use a dedicated “pad wiping” microfiber towel to thoroughly clean my pads. I think the combo of blow and wipe does a really good job cleaning it!
Hey Matt, not sure if you read these but a suggestion for the belt issue that I've heard you mention a couple times is simply rotating your belt so that the buckle is either on the back or the side. That way its out of the way, your pants will stay up, and the leather of the belt will cover the front button on your shorts. Hope that helps.
Awesome vid Matt ! Beemers do have a harder paint , I think you hit the nail on the head with Jescar and microfiber for that car , I really like the way you show us all your decision making and not edit it out this helps out the beginner what it takes to come to a final decision.
I thought the same as you on paint depth readers, but when i corrected my bmw and took a reading after it showed scary low clear/paint depth, so even if its not too accurate i at least know now that i cannot do a correction again as i would really blow through the clear next time. For that reason i think it worth having one, or at least one between a couple of friends
I agree, I did a newer charger recently and it was insanely thin. On top of seeing how much I remove with each pass. But I also did it for years just fine without one
@@ObsessedGarage my only issue is the cost. If I was doing it professionally, I could absorb the cost I to pricing. But I'm a home gamer and can get 12, 3/4" rolls of 233 for $41 lol. But I may grab a roll to try. It is alot more expensive though. Thanks for the reply :-)
2011+ rod bearings are tin/aluminum not the classic lead/copper they changed it because of some environmental measure. cant remember the exact post on m3post, so i might be wrong
Shaping up to be another great series, thanks for this mate. I really like that little pack with all the ibrid attachments in it, so much nicer than the zip lock bags of my kit - can you add this to your store
Been following your page some time and learned a ton. Very thankful for the information you provide on each video! I am just wondering your personal thoughts on the best beginner level Rupes or polisher in general? I have very little experience polishing, but a lot of experience in overall detailing. I usually do full decon, clay, then collinite/sealant combo. I am only missing the polishing stage. I really want to start getting into it more over this winter.
The delta between an entry level and RUPES LHR15MKII isn't worth the sacrifice for me. I'd start with it. Dig into my polishing page a bit. www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/polishing
I'm having trouble finding the video showing the lift you have and where to price them out and what else is needed. Only commenting here because this is the video I'm watching now
The Rupes wool are getting a lot of Hype, particularly the Yellow pads...looking to get a few 3” to try out on fenders, rocker areas. Any thoughts after using em here?
just an opinion, but taking detailing to such extremes just makes driving it even "down the street" stressful knowing all that time is going to go out the window when it gets defects in it again from driving. I'm all for keeping a really clean car though but there's a line as to how much time is constantly sunk into detailing. The point for cars like this is to not only be a work of art visually but driven.
tennisfan4201 He only does it once per car. After he invests a few days in fully detailing his car, he won’t need to invest many more hours in cleaning his car and so on since he did all the pre work. If you want to take care of your car afterwards its much easier.
Awesome video. Is the yellow hybrid pad a microfiber and wool pad that make it a step between only microfiber and only wool pad? If yes, isn't the hybrid more aggressive than microfiber pad since it have wool in it? I togth the wool was the most aggressive pads?
I called it a "hybird" in this video because I was using a cutting compound and a medium wool pad. This pad is quite a bit less aggressive than the microfiber cutting pad.
Electrics have more torque, but the pneumatics are much smoother. It's also great that they instantly reach operating speed with no ramp up. The other advantage is the LHR75 Pneumatic has 15mm orbit vs. LHR75E electric at 12mm.
I tend to blow out the 3" and smaller pads after brushing and vacuum the larger pads using a bristle attachment. I use a vice grip table to lock in the bristled end of the hose pointed upwards (that way I'm not fumbling around with the hose and vacuum switch).
