Did I Really Need a TRACKSAW? - or just a better one! 

Hey Tim. Thanks for the shout-out. I’d have chucked it back to Lidl as soon as I found that gunk all over the housing tbh. I do wonder about the QC from one year to the next; my Parkside saw is from last year, perhaps that makes a difference. For clarity, and anyone new to the tracksaw/plungesaw world, there’s usually a good ~8mm or so of rubber splinterguard exposed at the edge of a new guiderail that gets trimmed back on the first cut - better to make that cut against a surface, btw - and then acts as a reference for your cut line. The splinter guards are a consumable, so can be replaced, but you shouldn’t need to do that on a brand new rail. The one benefit of buying supermarket tools is they don’t quibble about returns or replacements - chuck it back to Lidl and move on. BTW dust collection can usually be improved by taping over the access hole in the blade cover - it can make a huge difference - but DC on these entry-level saws is ‘OK’ at best; you don’t get Festool levels of dust collection without spending Festool money, unfortunately. For anyone who remains ‘tracksaw curious’ I did a 7-part Tracksaw Workshop’ series earlier in the year. 👍👍

I can understand your frustration... out of the box and a major feature, doesn't do its job... the rubber edge guide and splinter strip... As I understand it (not yet bought one... still researching) the Erbauer Tracksaw is quite good (within its budget limitations). Coming with two 700mm makita compatible track sections and clamps and joiners.

I do like your very truthful videos and I have just bought one of these saws (2 years after you lol) and straight away I had to check the track and just to let you know that mine was fine so they may have adjusted the design or you got a duff one. How did you overcome it in the end?

You can see at 8:59 in the video the saw is not at 90 degrees to the base not sure how much difference that makes.

To charge the blade, you need to remove the cover - I don’t think the blade will come out otherwise. I have just replaced mine with a 40 tooth Freud item after a couple of years of using the original. I use the Festool tracks with the Lidl saw which are much better than the supplied ones.

Thanks for the Skillbuilder mention, very kind! Keep up the good work

You've got a bad one, seriously, take it back. I wouldn't give up my track saw for anything, so don't give up.

Never underestimate the usefulness of a failure, we learn more when it doesn’t go according to plan. I have often looked at the power tools in Aldi etc but they are always priced at a point where the risk isn’t worth it and this has reinforced my thought process. Most useful video I have seen of yours yet as it has saved me money and most importantly disappointment :-)

These budget tools are cheap because they don't bother with QC. So, pay your money and roll the dice to see if you get a good one or a duff one.

100% that is a lemon. I have the titan, but you're right it is absolutely supposed to cut the rubber strip, and that strip is supposed to be in contact with the material you're cutting. Personally id return it and go to screwfix and get a titan, I think you'd be pleasantly surprised.... Or maybe your new contacts at B&Q could hook you up with one for a comparison! Don't give up 😉

I have no advice but I got several laugh out loud moments from that video. Wasn’t expecting that from a track saw review🤣🤣

1 dislike must be from lidl :)

Bought a Makita battery one, up there with one of the best tools I own.

I feel your disappointment! :) Another vote for taking it back - I think you got a lemon as there shouldn't be any grease visible. I've had this Lidl saw for a year now and used it pretty much every day (van build!). For reference, the distance from the edge of the splinter guard to the raised part of the track is 122mm on mine after trimming (179mm overall). The actual splinter guard rubber is 19mm wide after trimming. I did change the blade to a 40T one, but even the blade that came with it is OK. I've found it gives a very nice, accurate cut, but above all, it's so quick! Change it if you can, or take it back.

Hi there! I bought myself a Festool one. It was at that time the cheapest namebrand tracksaw around. I payed 400€ for a kit with case, fine toothed sawblade and 1.40m track. Never regreted it. Especially the Festool blades are very cheap in comparison to others. I would recommend importing it from Germany and changing the plug in Britain. To be honest, I think your solution with the Bosch plus DIY track was totally fine. You still can put a rebate under that track to protect the edges with a lip. I use these lips several times. If they tear, i reglue it onto the track and trim it. Only when they get too slim, I replace it. If you order tracks, I can recommend Triton or Makita ones. They all differ slightly but are mostly suited for these saws. Cheaper ones tend to have such issues. And yes, dust extraction on saws is always bad. Even table saws seem to throw particles everywhere. Only Maffel seem to get it right on their handheld saws. But the prices... I hope that helps! Regards, Etna.

That looks and sounds a bit nasty. I researched these a fair bit. I got as good as I could economically get. I got the Makita SP6000 over a year ago now, I dunno how I managed without it. the features on it are superb. The tracks are a lot longer than the scrappy bits of track with the Parkside model. I have used mine on several occasions to simply shave a millimeter or two of door edges amongst lots of other jobs like breaking down 8' x 4' sheets of MDF OSB and plywood. It works a dream. If taking a cut with the full kerf of the blade, the dust extraction is stunning, even with just the dust bag and without hooking up the vac. there is also an option to run the length of your cut with a first pass a millimeter or so deep to stop blade chipping out the timber. The reviews I read said the Makita was only slightly behind Festool, which is really good but out of most peoples budget. I hunted for a deal where it included a couple of 1.5mtr guide rails. I love it. And you are right, the first use will trim the edge if the anti chip strip on a decent setup. Your tool looked really bad! I simply line the track up to pencil marks and cut, it's accuracy? it is within half a millimeter. I just had a quick scout about on the web, it may sound extremely steep to pay £380 for the FULL kit including clamps, track joining kit, carry bag for the 2 tracks you get etc. But this is so versatile and has a carry case for the saw too.

2 Years on UPDATE. I never bothered with a replacement and learnt my lesson, you get what you pay for. As it would be a tool that would be used regularly and for many years, I hunted down a great used Festool which has been an invaluable addition to the workshop for the past 2 years, it's spot on every time and doesn't give you that feeling of "I wish I had got the better one" every time you pick it up! UPDATE. Long story short, the saw works fine but quality control a huge let down. As I mentioned in the video, many people have had a good result from this saw, so appears I was unfortunate to get a dud. After more investigation and discussions with other owners it looks as if the splinter guard was incorrect in size and profile and the blade itself fitted in such a way that it was offset enough to miss splinterguard and nearly clip the casing of the saw. Due to being a one off product, unlikely to replace so probably refund and then look elsewhere for an alternative. Thanks for all the comments and advice. :-) We will be back woith another track saw one day, I am not put off!

A wouldn’t buy tools from Aldi or Lidl if my life depended on it ! 💩💩💩

Tim you may find that there are screws on that attach the plate to the saw, it could be that they are not set up properly hence the 3mm gap. You should be taking off at least 2mm when you do your first cut. I don't own the Lidi Tracksaw. I bought a Mikita a few years back and can hand on heart say they are fantastic tools.

You get what you pay for! My Makita track saw is brilliant, it is a game changer, would not be without it now. Far better than a handmade jig with my aldi circular saw (which never gets used now).

Bought one last week, upgraded the blade before I even started using and I've used it several times already. Very happy for the money.

You helped us all out if that helps buddy onwards and upwards

Omg all the guys are here; Peter Millard, Skillbuilder et al. Hey! you guys ever thought of doing a panel or something. All we need now is Ave! I love you guys no BS or hype approach to things.

Shocking bad design.........the splinter strip will fail to stop tear out certainly on fragile sheet material...a simple fix is to purchase Festools strip which bonds well and most importantly is flat thus stopping tear out, fundamental this can be fixed, as for the poor dust extraction, that I fear cannot be fixed or improved on, the festool really does exceed here, I have a Festool track saw and I love it but I cannot compare both saws here, as one costs less than £100 and shall we say the Festool does not, but with an upgraded blade and a new flat splinter strip you will have a saw that cuts straight, well and with no tear out for a fraction of the cost of the Festool, will I be changing my Festool 55 for a Parkside anytime soon, I think not but some of your issues can be fixed, kind regards Louie Ulster Workshop.

Hi Tim. Is there any chance you could take it back and exchange it for another just to see if it's any better? Another review would be really useful I'm sure. Thanks for the videos. Appreciated.

i tried 1. bag of shit took it back but good luck m8 lol

Great video. I bought one of these for £30 on Facebook market place (2nd hand but unopened). Brilliant value and mine works fine and it fitted the track and trimmed the strip on first pass like it should. Also bought extra track direct from the manufacturer. At under £10 a length inc postage from Germany an even better bargain. My comments from using it... Cable is very stiff and not flexible unlike most other tools using a power cord. The red knobs used to adjust clearance in the track groove need tightening every time used. Only one connector used between track lengths rather than at two points so track can be easily missaligned. Checking track joins with a straight edge is essential. Assembled track lengths also tend to twist so the saw sometimes will not flow over the join. A little bit underpowered. Anything more than 18mm ply goes a bit slow. Finish is good even on the standard blade. Blade a bit slow to slow down when cut finished. Had a few kick backs but now I am aware, avoid moving it when stopping. I’d like to say it’s rubbish, but for the money it’s great. I even find myself reaching for it instead of using my high end and also very heavy mitre and table saws. I know what to would prefer to lug upstairs! If you come across one, get one. Otherwise save up for a branded one like the Festool. The concept of this tool is a time, space and back saver!

In my experience what you pay for is QA and service. The tool may not be fundamentally different to a Mafell but you’ve paid 10% of the cost, a big chunk of that 90% goes on after sales and ensuring the tool meets the specification sold. I’ve got the Mafell and wouldn’t be without it.

i stopped buying stuff like that , its just a waste of money , im replacing everything with better stuff.

Duff track there, I got myself a Titan track saw from screwfix after watching 10 minute workshop. (Lidl didn't have the Parkside at the time) it's already paid for itself....bloody love tracksaws

I think you started out with a Negative attitude, this is a great saw for the money,, less negativity, Peter Millard is far more objective and his reviews carry far more credability, sorry not impressed

my (now ex) boyfriend bought me a festool track saw about 8 years ago - he got it cheap because a guy he used to work with started up a festool shop. i'm pretty strong, but i'm not Lou Ferrigno, so lifting a sheet of 3/4" anything onto my table saw and working it was a pain - farting around with rolling runoffs etc... to be fair, since then i built an 8x8 table with two tablesaws in opposite corners, so each has a great run off , so maybe not quite a useful as it was, but the festool was perfect for what i needed it for at the time - even just for ripping a 4x8' sheet in two, then cutting it at the table saw. not sure if festool is actually worth the money - lots of opinions on that - but mine was 'free', so worth every penny - but with the table, and a sled, i seldom use it anymore. but if you don't have a huge table, these track saws are awesome - and make everything much safer - at least for me.

Budget tools should still do the job they are sold to do.

Peter Millard has reviewed from a point of view where he’s an avid user of quality plunge saws covering the cheap Enders

This is a good piece of kit. I have two, one with a laminate blade and the other with a rip blade. Both blades are Freud. Change the blade holder screw for a stainless 5mm (I think). Now I run mine on Festool track (and yes, I have a T55 as well) and have no problem. Yes, the supplied track leaves a gap of 3mm. get some sticky backed foam (2.5mm thick) and replace the existing black foam. As a good work a day tool, they are great. Dust collection is ok, not too noisy and if the get stolen I'm out sixty quid, not three hundred… Had both for about two-years now and they have worked faultlessly and I have put some pretty shitty ply through them as well MFC. A lot depends upon the blade.

i could feel your disappointment lol ... dust extraction big let down also ... i'll take a half decent cordless saw and homemade rip jig guide over a real budget track saw. most of the parkside power tools and air tools pretty rough stuff hence the price,. only thing i bought was the 12v battery packs at 8.99 to harvest the 3 18650 cells for a cheap battery rebuild on my older and liked 12v kit . would of liked couple cheap clamps but they didn't have any ...

Three points: 1) you have bought a dud; 2) the budget version is probably not designed for someone who is competent with a circular saw and jig (i.e. very competent DIY person); 3) a plunge saw should be safer and more precise than a circular saw and jig.

Hi, bought this saw 3 years ago and have used it extensivly with no problems since. Splinter guard cut first time. So take Peter's advise and get a swap. Mo.

Another great video mate I have a battery makita circular saw which I manage to do most jobs with. I've seen them plunge saws in lidl walked past them a few times wondering whether to buy one I'm a bit unsure now. What do u rekon tim is it worth the money ?

Hi I just opened my exact same model and there is a clear 2mm overlap between the blade and the rubber splinter rail. I would say yours is defective.

+1 for taking it back - like other posters have mentioned it's a lottery with the bad QC on these cheap tools. I've got a few Lidl and Workzone tools still going after several years of use and others that lasted days.. including a Workzone random orbit sander that died after one use.

Gutted. I'm glad I didn't get one a couple of days ago then.

Its all a learning curve, I have a Dewalt Track saw and it is the best , most used tool I have. No dust, extremely accurate and powerful. In this scenario i think it is a case of you get what you pay for but it is the size of a bus and heavy as an electricians wallet.

Oddly enough this is one of your best videos. Obviously something amiss with the Lidl. All I can say is that my Festool tracksaw has been to Mars and back, and still cuts beautifully.

For info, the blade bolt undoes in the direction of the arrow on the casing. Anti clockwise as you are facing it.

I just bought a Mac one from B&Q for £55 on offer. It looks pretty similar to your one. It works very well and has saved me loads of time pulling up some old chipboard floor. I think you must have just got a duff one.

I like your videos but I would suggest you buy mid range products. Going for the very cheapest will only annoy you. It is great to be able to afford the best, but if you can’t then go mid range.

I've a Festool 55 - Splinter guard on my track saw is indeed flush with the blade. I have super smooth cuts with almost no splintering when I use my saw. I wonder if the track is used and someone maybe had a thicker blade and precut it already? Either that or I'd imagine its a manufacturing fault/issue. I've trimmed several doors in my house due to carpet installs.. the Festool (regarded as expensive) has already paid for itself in me paying a joiner/carpenter. I'd say if you replace the rubber strip and make sure its deep enough - then you'd see much better results. Honestly, if there is no way to adjust the blade then you've bought a turkey :( sorry pal.

Brilliant real world, see it as it is video. Thanks for taking the time to put this out. For the price, one could reasonably expect the tech/spec to be old hat. But it should still do what it is designed to do, abeit not as well as a more expensive brand. Disappointed for you and grateful as I was on the verge of getting one of these on a similar basis as yours in that I have managed thus far without one but for the price, hey what the heck, let's have one. You've saved me and countless others the disappointment. As an aside, have you considered purchasing some rubber splinter guard strips and sticking them to the bottom of your home made track to upgrade the cut quality? Can't see why that wouldn't work, bringing your simple device into another level.

100% tracksaw is a huge advantage. Admittedly I am a carpenter and I have a festool but it is so far ahead of any circular saw for finish and ease of use it

I've got exactly the same with exactly the same issues. That bolt is on there STUCK, and the rubber is no touching the blade. It was good for some rough jobs, but now i'm gonna do some more accurate jobs, it's a pain.

The strip is easy to take off, and reapply if the adhesive allows it. Otherwise you need to clean it up with sticker remover and use carpettape to reattach it onto the rail. Not a good start for a new product but easier fix than complain about it at the manufacturer. Also you can buy the strips from festool for this rail. Here in The Netherlands we got a company who sells tracks in 1400MM in one piece for 30 EUR. (HBM) and Festool and makita rails should work on this parkside as well.

Absolutely gutted for you... can really feel your pain in the video. Definitely take it back though, the tracks are one issue... not being able to remove the blade makes it useless once that blade dulls. Must get round to making a couple of jugs for my cordless now though. Or buy that erbauer.... 😂 But do I need it and does that matter!?!?!

A track saw is nonsense, designed to convince you to keep buying tools. Your scrap wood saw guide is the right idea; I've been using a variation of that for 45 years. Won't have any 3mm gap with it! The key is to use a saw with a solid and large stable base; in the US that was originally the Black and Decker Super Sawcats. Now the best seems to be DeWalt, but more and more they are going to cordless, which won't give you the cut you need.

Just think about it. This is a machine which sells for - what - £50? 20% of that is VAT, so that's £42. Then add in the retailer's margin to cover premises, staff, vast overheads and so on - you're down to maybe £25. Then factor in costs of European warehousing, transport, distribution to branches, marketing and you're down to £20. Then factor in the cost of shipping a containerload of these things from China and you're down another few quid per unit. Then factor in the cost of the original manufacturer's parts, production costs and profit margin - and you end up with a saw which has probably been made for less than £5. Go figure.

Has anyone tried this plunges on 45° ?? I can only get mine over to around 40° ?? Any advise appreciated

Very refreshing to see an HONEST review of a tool - sponsored or not. Keep up the good work Tim

Did you need a track saw? No, probably not given you'd already made your own. Did you need a cheap piece of shit from lidl instead of a bosch blue with a freud blade? Hell no. So meh... well done for making a decent track saw of your own I guess.

Ah mate. What a bummer! Write to Makita and ask them nicely and tell them you will do a review video! Who knows you could get someone generous on the other end ha! If your home made track works for you... stick with it! If it gets your job done the way you want. Take care. 👍

I have a Parkside Tracksaw and it is excellent in every respect. You should always read the instructions and you should not be doing tool reviews

Lovely video informative but hay gays I want to say "FUCK OONI CODA " non-stop add 🤣

I picked one up which doesn't seem to have the same problem with regards to the track at least. I haven't tried to remove the blade yet.

I have a Makita track saw and they take a small amount of time to get used to if you've not used one before. But, the convenience and accuracy of making long straight accurate cuts "on the line" even for occasional use is helpful. No more accurate than your jig except for possibly moisture absorption (happened to my MDF worktop jig) and having no lateral support on the cut side. I do think you had a rogue saw though, from what I've seen these Aldi TSs are a no brainer.

I saw you using erbauer circular saw is it a lot different between Makita dss611z as both are made in china? Thx

00:12 "Did I really need to buy a track saw?" lol - did my wife need a new pair of shoes? Great intro - taking a philosophical view of things - guaranteed to win one's attention!

Don't think you're wrong- just not the best product. Good video anyway- thanks.

That's a real bummer for you. I don't think it's user error, looks more like it was built on a Friday afternoon. Peter Millard recently posted a video about the same track saw. Worth a look if you haven't already. Going by your last video in which you unveiled that monster Makita rip snorter you obviously know when a good quality saw is the way to go. Perhaps you should just bite the bullet and buy a better branded one. Cordless or corded is now the extra option to think about but either way I reckon you won't regret it. Not just for cutting 8'x4' sheet material. Trimming doors, trim work tops, sink and hob cut outs, etc. Keep up the good work.

Interesting. After watching Peter Millard's Videos I think the Titan one looks like the best budget one and has the best/most compatible rails. They are on sale at B@Q as they are selling off all the titan stock. Doesn't show on the website but it's £55 in my local one instore. I think I would return that Parkside one, it shouldn't be worse than a circular with a rail (which is what I currently use!)

Save yourself the bother and take it back mate. Get a refund. Its parkside total crap junk💯

This has got to be an issue with that particular saw. I used to use the Erbauer track saw and it was good for its price. I bought some Makita tracks and that improved it. I then upgraded to the mighty Festool and it’s amazing. A budget track saw should still have a splinter guard that should prevent splinters. I feel your pain. I would have completely spat my dummy out.

Blast the allen/hex fastener on the blade with a heat gun...the manufacturer likely added thread-locker and the heat will melt it.

I have the exact same saw and my rubber edge lined up 100% to the blade straight out of the box, perhaps yours was a one off dodgy example.

SorryTim, you got the wrong one, with the right track saw you will never look back. I have had my Bosch GKE 55 for some time and it is beautiful. Must have cut 40 plus 8 by 4 sheets by now and is as good as the day I brought it.

The bolt holding the blade on 'should' be a normal thread (not left hand) because of the direction of rotation of the motor, it should self tighten. The rubber strip is mainly so you can line up your marks with the edge.

Don't beat you're self up, happens to us all. I would return it, for sure!. Have a similar guide myself. Works great! Keep up the good work! Greetz Gerlof

It's a learning curve I guess, you don't know until you try or at least try and emerse yourself in RU-vid relevant vids. Already own a secondhand Festool but again interesting and informative. Thanks

buys a parkside tool, acts surprised when it turns out to be a complete peice of shit.

I picked up rutlands one which looks very similar first cut I hated it,but after 3 or so cuts getting used to it I must say I was impressed,same depth gauge by the looks of it I had no issue with the rubber it took a consistent 32 nd of inch off the rubber.I enjoyed using it so much I built a console desk with draw underneath and tapered legs all done on this saw, dust extraction was superb on 12mm mdf and pretty respectable on 18mm, I'm wondering about blade changing now,I think you had a duff one there mate enjoyed your vid all same

Good to see a review which shows the potential issues. I am very surprised the blade bolt is not easily removed. I bought a track for regular circular saw about 18 years ago. The track works well to give me a straight and clean cut on sheet goods, which is the only time I use this. This has a sacrificial plastic edge to act as zero clearance and minimize splintering. I know how to pivot my circular saw if I need to plunge to start the cut. I do not feel a dedicated track saw would give me much improvement, perhaps only in dust collection. Not enough improvement for me to justify the tool. Also would not get used much in my shop. My circular saw has universal motor like the one you purchased, so it is loud. Dave.

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with the Parkside tracksaw. I'd have to agree with another post: it's a dud! Just take it back. Lidl will not give you any grief. I've got the Makita, corded and cordless - both are fabulous and an absolute pleasure to use. But at 65 quid, the Parkside is an absolute bargain, coming in at less than the price of a single Makita battery. Just take it back for a swap and spend the money on a better blade rather than a new splinter guard.

Such a shame as the one i bought last year is spot on,i would take it back to be honest

return it ..............

I have one, and the blade is perfectly aligned with the guide cut line. Greetings from California, friend.

Buy cheap power tools you get shit spend but more you will be onto winner

I have changed the blade for thin kerf 48 tooth and it cuts work tops well the depth stop takes some fiddling to get your head around

Finally a true video when things don't seem to go to plan. All these years I thought it was me that just always got the 'Friday afternoon one' . Thanks for your honesty throughout. Brilliant channel 👍🏼

Yes, it's most certainly a reversed one. Just changed one myself the other day :)

now the splinter gard is there.

Unfortunately, these Chinese/Taiwanese tools are flooding the market so I'm sorry that you have been the recipient of one , as the age old saying , you pays your money and yooos takes your chance and the less money you pay the bigger chance you take , I threw my Evolution track saw in the skip

Can't see why you even bothered with it to be honest!

I got the Screwfix one after a different review on that one. It's very good and runs on a more standard track. It also has a very smooth cut on the standard blade compared to my old circular saw.

You get what you pay for...pay cheap get crap

Watching in the current hot spell seeing with a zip wool top yep I know filmed a while ago , generally park side stuff not too bad . Get rid of . What are the cordless saws you use .? Hope you don’t mind me asking .

If you pay £50 for a track saw at a discount supermarket do you really expect to get anything other than landfill? Buy nice or buy twice, as they say.

You definitely got a dodgy one! I have the makita track saw, and about a year ago I got the lidl one for rough work...and I've got to say I have found it to be a really good track saw. Especially for the £80 I paid

I bought the same saw last week, mine trimmed off the splinter guard or should i say attempted to trim it, it looked like i had trimmed it with a bread knife, awful cut rendering the splinter guard useless, i then attached the two rails together and no matter what i tried the rails fitted badly together, to the point of where i had to keep the two cams that take up the slack loose, which same again made the saw pointless because of the play in the track which would obviously stop the saw making accurate straight cuts .After messing around with the saw for three hours i took it straight back and got a refund. I am now in two minds as to save up for a makita track saw or just carry on with my dewalt cordless circular saw and home made track . hope this helps anyone considering buying the parkside .

Blade bolt will be left-hand thread.

I got the Kreg Accu Cut track for use with my existing cordless circular saw - works great

Why did you buy a cheap Lidl plunge saw, when you already own a Festool TS55?

If you have a table saw and plunge router you can usually get along easily just as well without a track saw. I have neither lol.