thanks for taking the time to clearly demonstrate it. unlike the other commentors i appreciate that you had the detailed explanation of what you are doing
Omfg so glad I found this, my problem is I have multiple points in my harnes that is a conjunction for ground,dash board like a Christmas tree! Ever light know to man. Just can’t be right! My car sits A LOT, so I cleaned g101 g151 ect.. used "dielectric grease" thinking it would keep corrosion away. everything mint for a year as I periodically ran it because it just sits well this past year it got put away yesterday had to play musical cars and the plaque is back. I read problem is dielectric grease properties doesn’t allow condensation from contact metal to pass threw causing corrosion , completely opposite of how oil would separate for water it breaths, my question what is better than oil as this car sits way more than it should, it’s just way to expensive to race right now
There are only a few situations you should use non-conductive grease. As for measuring grease resistance, this is useless. Electrical connections are metal to metal, the grease stops corrosion and air gap issues. Any grease will work, you don’t need a special grease.
I'm thinking of using the grease on the inside of my juliet connector on my ebike. The 9 pins are known to suffer corrosion A lot of amps go through there and they get warm and when they cool can draw in moisture leading to corrosion. I've seen examples of them melting due to bad contacts.
I have used die electric grease on automotive 12 volt connections for several years and have never had a connection resistance issue. I have especially on my brother in law snowplow pump connection where snow and water are a constant problem. that is when I started using die electric grease and never had connection problems after that. have used dozens of times on the end of spark plug boots and never a m8sfire issue.
Thanks for the visible clarification through contact testing under load compared to the definitions given based on linguistics. What is your experience with when the car fuse box\ relay box has corrosion what do you use to remove the corrosion? What is the dry-out point for such a grease under electrical load? Is this the same type of silicone grease used in the brake assembly for the slide pins where it is coming in contact with the rubber or silicone boots and seals? I I definitely am confused after still spending 2 hours to learn if I can use the permatex silicone dielectric grease I have from autozone for the slide pin and potential the brake caliper piston for fear that the lubricant has to be correct for the seals and boots also!
I only use 3M pure silicone grease for the brake slide pin/piston. I'm super careful about only putting silicone grease there and on the rubber boot for it. Don't get it near the pads at all. Dielectric grease might have other components in it so I specifically purchased 3M pure silicone for brakes. For battery terminals and electrical connections I use whatever dielectric grease is on hand and save the 3M for more important jobs.
When dielectric grease first came out I had mechanics (now called techs) tell me to coat the terminals with it. In fact, with those early electronic modules they would say to squirt the whole connector full of grease before plugging the connectors together. Maybe back then the product wasn't fully understood (or the people selling it said, "just squeeze it all over everything!"). The reason I think it worked in many applications is that, as demonstrated here, when the connections are pressed together there would be tight metal-to-metal contact inside the connector and the grease would seal everything around it. I'm thinking, now that the product is better understood, it probably makes sense to think about your application. Are the connectors going to go together tightly, scraping the grease away with metal-to-metal contact as they are pressed together? Or, are you going to have a connection where you can't count on a scraping action to create metal to metal contact when the connection is assembled? I've typically coated the connections on my car battery with dielectric. I can't recall it causing observable problems. But, I'm thinking it is probably wiser to clean the connections, assemble the connections, then use dielectric just to seal over the top. AGS has a video where they install the red and blue felts first and coat the surface of the felts with a little dielectric which I guess might help seal the bottom of the connection. Not a bad idea. -- On second thought, if you seal the bottom and any water, even from condensation gets in there, it cannot drain off. Maybe better to leave the bottom unsealed? [shrug]
This is exactly my train of thought. I'm looking into this because of my snow plow trucks. I've always used just regular axel grease in the connectors to keep water and salt from killing them. I switched to dielectric grease this year and the high current 12v ~ 200amp++ connector seems to be overheating and causing connection issues. It possible it's the age of the wire. But I'm also considering that the dielectric grease has increased the resistance and with high current demands it's causing heat. I have since cleaned all grease for the contacts and only have grease around the perimeter of the connection. I'll report back if I see any difference. Also considering using a very small amount of carbon grease to increase the quality of the connection
My tacoma actually had some yellow type of grease all around the and on the headlight connector for the female end of the connector and the actual headlight bulb male connector. So I am trying to see if this would solve my issue of some new headlights I bought. On the passenger side specifically the bulb itself will cut on and off randomly. When i originally received them and replaced the bulbs it came with, there was a soft arc/burn mark on one of the little tab connectors. Where as my original headlights didnt do that at all. So i think there is a connection issue with the new headlight connector perhaps drawing too much voltage.
The metal to metal contact is the same. What didnt' you understand? Do you think every connection you have is arcing electricity? When you plug connectors together they connectors are only making contact in certain spots. Whether you've coated it or not it should only be conducting electricity on those contact areas. The dielectric grease will be pushed away on those contact spots but the rest of the connector is now protected against corrosion
Welp I heard about it and didn’t look how to use I thought I was going good I jumped a gun and got it. We did all the wires in my boat and pretty much dunked every end in grease and I used a lot of 1/0 awg to the little wires for every single battery amp and light now I’m look if I messed up and need to take it off some how but everything works no problem so….
Technically he is measuring millivolts. But because he has set up his power supply to constant current at 1amp, a 1mV reading indicates 1 milliohms (because of Ohm's Law).
My car is completely dead everything is bolted tight it didn't work out for me and a lot of people in the Daytona Jeep or an SUV had the same thing knocks out the computer
I had to stop watching at the 8 minute mark. 8 minutes in and the guy is still just rabbiting on. I mean this as constructive criticism : get to the point. Peace out.
I have used it on auto and home electrical contacts and it works fine. Keeps the contacts from oxidizing I refurbish old fans from the 20s to the 30s. I use this on the open contacts used, similar to the points on a vintage car. Works fine. Never had an issue.
Zzzzzzzzzzz you just about lost me with the whole "see it takes the paint off" comment. You really should've done a "real world" experiment with actual male/female automotive 2 pin connectors with one side as a loop. Measuring voltage drop/resistance when plugging the connector together, completing the circuit. Alligator test clips from your power apply with multimeter test points.
Few times I saw so much clumsiness in the way of working! What a video disaster! Turning on the multimeter and moving the selector. BEING CONNECTED TO THE SOURCE is a terrible class for students !!!
You have a lot to learn. What you are doing is a shortcut. You are not reading actual resistance. You have the idea and a good intention, but not the knowledge
