I have had a 100 gallon tank in my truck for equipment for years, something I did to save some trouble was put canvas hydraulic hose protection over my fuel hose to keep the sun from dry rotting it.
That was a great video a fella gets some pretty deep satisfaction knowing he made it himself and it's way better than what you could buy. And absolutely custom to boot!
Nice design and construction. Always great to customize a project for YOUR needs instead of settling for an off-the-shelf make do product. Custom fit says it all. Thumbs Up!
One thing that would help with bends is score it like you did with the grinder but do it on both sides. So alternate the side of the blade on the cut and basically make a valley. Keep up the good content brother
If you score on the outside of the bend, you won't have the clearance issue with the bend, and you have a nice little shelf to weld up. Nice work on the tank.
I love to see others that build things they need. I built my own dovetail car trailer about 4 years ago from steel I got at an auction sale. I've also built a reloading press and an Alaskan chainsaw mill out of an old chair and a weight lift bench.
That truck is so tall that even the stock bed with the tailgate up made it hard to see out back, I’ve been meaning to install a backup camera since 2014. I couldn’t find a better place for anything larger than a 35”, 35” will just barely fit between the frame rails. I agree it’s kind of a pain but gotta have that spare!
That was a great idea for dead space on your rig! I’m lucky my neighbor is a professional welder... I supply his family with beef... he’s my on call welder... I am horrible at welding... lol Really enjoy your channel!
It's great that your building your own spare fuel tank. A little food for thought take your project to a local sheet metal shop with a hydraulic or large brake and let them bend it for you. But when you use a brake you have to add a little lenght for the bends
That’s a great idea, it would look way more clean but every time I ask for a quote for metal work around here (plasma table) they are booked out for weeks and I’m inpatient.
I just tried to do a little one in aluminum for the “hotdog cart” grey water tank. It ended up cracking at the welds, go with thicker aluminum on the first one, 1/8”?
@@Andrewactual what grade aluminum was it? 5052 works well for tanks .120 wall is usually a good thickness with 4043 as the filler unless your going to anodize then use 5056 filler. Don't forget to weld in doubler plates at fill spouts or pump locations.
Just grind your seams in the bent position because that is were the metal needs to be removed were it comes together. But pretty good for doing it in a garage. Also use a pipers grinding disc. It is thinner than a regular disc and thicker than a cutting disc. It is better in controlling your gap and for cleaning your root welds with out too much material removal. Forty years welding in the oil field and mines you learn a thing or two. Great job!
Me too. The camera turned off unfortunately. It’s not light even empty but with 1/8” steel there is plenty of meat to weld. I’ve had a forklift slam into it while loading trailer axles and I let a 600# skid steer bucket slide into it gouging the steel but no leaks!
Thank you, I’ve been putting fuel through it like crazy with the land clearing I’ve been doing and I can’t imagine not having it. I put Red Kote Fuel Tank Sealer on the inside.
I didn’t pay much attention to that until one day my kid ran her hand across the closed door and made a less dirty spot, I ran to Lowe’s to get some soap you hook to the hose before the covenant saw!
I didn’t pressure test, just filled it with soapy water and watched for leaks. Since the cap is vented it shouldn’t ever see pressure. The air I put through it overnight after removing the water to make sure it was dry before pouring in red coat tank sealer. Thank you!
Great build man, i just wish the pump was orientated parallel to the tank somehow so the filter and the hoses were not sticking out that much... perhaps raise it and turn sideways... ? Just my thoughts, :)
This just goes to show there is always more than one way to skin a cat. I always score the outside edges so when it bends it doesn't bind. but you still got it done and your way looks way cleaner that way too. Turned out great!!!! Nice job
Firstly, 1/8"!? And i thought i over build things 🤯 secondly theres no need for the baffles at only 30-40 gals, i run a 60gal transfer tank in my F350 and have never noticed any weight shifting during turns or braking......and yes i know what it would feel like, i have driven milk tanks before and they aren't legally allowed to have baffles being food grade. Awesome build though, love the custom contouring 👏👍
Thanks, I figured they baffled as a primary intent and secondly it helped keep the tank from bulging, probably didn’t need them but hey, why not. Thanks for the input, it’s odd that milk can’t have baffles, is it a frothing thing, show up with all cream!?
Also I’m glad I went with 1/8, a fork lift driver tried to smash my trailer axles into it repeatedly when I went to pick them up and I’ve slid a skid steer bucket off my forks and it stopped sliding when it hit the fuel tank, just a little scratch. I do overbuild things sometimes though. I’m trying to judge between strength and weight these days.
Well the bulging is definitely an issue with my tank but its just an off the shelf 18ga tank, i dont think 1/8" would bulge very much if at all. The milk deal isnt just milk, all food grade tanks must be smooth bore so as to facilitate a person climbing in and scrubbing them clean between loads. All the railroad tanks you see that are marked vegetable oil are smooth inside too. Another think thats different with food grade tranks is they are all much smaller capacity than they look. They're normally insulated quite heavily between a double wall.
Is there a v shaped cutter that could put a better v cut at the seams that are bent to a 90? There’s a tool for everything nowadays surly they make one.
I definitely want one! I haven’t had a lot of time lately for metal fabrication but I think I’m going to order one before my next project. Thanks for the recommendation
I can tell by the red spring in the vent cap you got the GPI, good for you. The Fill Rite vent caps ALWAYS leak when the tank is full. Very hard to keep it clean with diesel all over the place. The GPI cap has worked perfectly for me.
Plunge cutting in steel fucks the carbide blades even if meant for steel cutting like the evolution or Milwaukee saw thats a limitation to cutting steel with carbide blades
They are readily available at most auto parts store too, sometimes they have to be ordered but they can get them as long as you used 2" npt for the fill port
I dug pretty deep into the requirements and what I lack if they care is a label stating who the manufacturer was (me) and I believe the statement “diesel tank” but because it is less than 119 gallons it does not require a placard. This is my personal understanding and I also understand that I am taking a responsibility by running that tank. I may get a label made to meet that requirement and fake the funk. I ran the first tank through it then pulled the plug and have been driving around with it for a couple months empty with no plug to see if I get negative attention which I have not.
I went down to the farm store to scope out one of these mandatory permanently affixed labels and it’s placement was against the front of the bed where it couldn’t be seen so... I’m going to run it until I get caught I guess.
@@Andrewactual good information, I was wondering as well. I had no clue about the over 119 gal has to have placards. I plan on building a 100 gal tank out of 13 ga. I hope it is a sturdy as yours. Thanks for the video.
Kobalt folding ones from Lowe’s. Advertised to hold 1100 pounds, I put them to the test on my flat bed build, it wasn’t heavy enough to max the 4 out but it wasn’t light! www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-37-8-in-W-x-32-in-H-Adjustable-Steel-Saw-Horse-1-100-lb-Capacity/1001182062?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-217-_-worksupports-_-1001182062-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WEEPht__hecdlAl-0zcx9ui_sknBm0BHVD8hykDv1FDlYxUMCXaJAwaAu7oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@ajfreeze215 the only concern with diesel tanks is if you are sealing an old tank because the paraffin residue from the diesel fuel they recommend sand blasting. For a new tank it is okay to use for diesel, I see nothing mentioned on the website about biodiesel.
I wouldn’t want 100 gal on that truck unless the spare still fit underneath. The 35ish gallon tank has been great for me, more than I can use in a couple days in my machines. If I had a couple machines running at a time 35 gal would go quickly.
@@Beijingbiden yeah, I’m usually within 20 minutes of a fuel station around here. I can run any of my tractors all day on 8 gallons. If I was in the mountains I can definitely understand wanting more. I’m happy with 35 gallons and the spare tire on the bed. With a 100 gallon I’d lose most of that short bed. I do plan on looking into getting a couple hundred gallon tank at the farm.
