The Doctor shows you all what kind of screws to use for different applications. Connect with us: / drdecks www.drdecks.com www.therebelca... #drdecks #tutorial #fasteners
24 " Timberlok hex head , driven thru 17 " Oak Logs ( outside walls ) without pre- drilling a single hole ! That was over 20 years ago. Only the first 4 inches of the screws had threads and did not break off any heads , did break and strip a couple bits. Also I used a industrial impact driver that can't be bought at any Lowes or Home Depot, you find them at industrial Tool supplies in your bigger cities. I have been installing bolts , screws and all types of hardware for 45 years and was sold on the Timberlok products and other types that have come along that seem to have been forged like SPRING STEEL .....yet rust resistant on most . Never walk out of a supply with just a bucket of screws in your had because it throws you off balance, walk out with two buckets, one in each hand and walking straight and with purpose !
Fasten Master - Absolutely great for screwing down a deck. I used them in about 2000 and last year had to undo them all. The boards looked too crappy with weathering after 20 years (cedar). To turn the deck boards over, I had to dig the deck coating out of each screw, which was tedious but easy, back out the screws and turn the board over to screw the deck back down. And used the same screws! That 𝑛𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑟 would have been possible with Phillips or Torx. Timberlok and Headlok - I've used both to bolt together logs in a buck & rail fence. I was NOT going to beat the heck out of my 70 year old wrists pounding spikes. These were awesome. No pounding. When I had to re-adjust, nothing to it. I backed them out and put them back in. More expensive than spikes but 𝐭𝐨𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 worth it. I used 6" and 8" with a few 10s on the larger bucks.
Great explanation of the usage for the various fasteners and lengths. The Fastenmaster brand has become more expensive for a reason -- they make a quality product that is in demand. I totally agree that you should buy them in bulk (those 50-count packages add up pretty quick).
GRK and spa are equally as good....Ive used a variety of brands . Simpsons with hex head offer more grip; an advantage if you think you’ll have to remove /withdraw/reinsert. Fi be/ideal for covered/unseen joists. But they stick up/out a bit more. The GRK have lowest profile, and SPAX has a bit wider integrated washer. GRK and SPAX are a different color. I would never usE a lag screw again ! However, NB , these cant replace lag bolts IMO.
What length fastener to fasten ledger through brick home and into beam behind brick? This is for a non-weight bearing pergola ledger to brick home back porch. Ledgers just above back door so should have a beam to grab. Already have 16” staggered tapcons.
Would FlatLOK be ok to assemble a three by 2x12 12 feet long beam together? Also i looked at the technical guide, would i install screws on both sides of the beam or just one?
Great video. Question. Can I use the 4 1/2 inch Headok to attach a horizontal 2x4 to a vertical 4x4 when building a shadow box fence? I usually use lag bolts countersunk. Thanks.
PLEASE HELP: ANYTHING HELPS. I will be installing some melamine cabinets soon and the wall has plywood behind it. My cabinet backing is 3/4 I would assume the sheetrock is 1/2 and plywood 3/4 or maybe half? ANY IDEA on what screws I should use for extra strength any tips help thank you! I usually use 3” screws when I install these sort of cabinets but just the thought of the plywood behind it makes me worried. I know where the studs are behind the sheetrock and plywood but still. I was just thinking of putting Atleast 4 in each section and legs for extra strength TIA!! Anything helps thanks guys!!
Cool stuff. Really need to figure out that auto-focus thing though. Probably need to go full manual focus or figure out an angle to shoot from that doesn't make auto focus wig out.
Thi either the Canon R series mirrorless with auto eye focus or what I use, Nikon Z series mirrorless, all auto focus. But to pull focus you need a Focus puller setup to key in on those tight shots.
Take one of those smaller screws you show there and screw one into a board till it comes through the other side. Then hit the screw with a hammer .. If the screw breaks off instead of bending then there isn't enough tensile strength to be used for framing!
You should hit on the difficulties of hanging a ledger on a house with TJI joists and band boards ! We will usually run notched 4x4's every 6' down to the existing footers next to the house as extra insurance of framing stability.
First of all! thanks a lot for all the knowledge and always helpful tips. Question: How many ledger locks do you have to use in a ledger? I know every build is completely different. For example, Do I use 2 ledger locks in between joists spaces (16'') assuming there is 16 spacing? thanks a lot
Great content, I liked and subbed...How would you fasted a ledgerboard to a steel framed house? I can find no structural wood to steel screws anywhere, except for a simpson screw, which I can only find sold in quantities of almost $200. Also, bolting through isn't an option because I can't get to the back side of the steel without destroying the interior of the house. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Robertson heads are the best screw head that’s why it holds without being magnetized. Also a lot harder strip a Robertson screw compared to Phillips head screw. Just Americans don’t like using the Robertson screw for some reason. Not sure if that’s cause a Canadian invented it or what but anything comes from states never uses them
I'm not a fan of Fastenmaster's 8 spline drive - not nearly as robust as Simpson's equivalents which use regular Torx bits. Fastenmaster's 8 spline are very easy to burr over and no longer be usable. Plus, it's a negative in my book to use a proprietary bit. Then the bolts are too thin. My preference are for GSK and Simpson only. Also, Spax are hopeless
I’m currently in the process of making a triple 2x10x16 glu-lam beam to be used as a secondary support under my new kitchen island. I purchased Simpson’s SDWS Timber Screws but am thinking 4” might be too large. Would the FastenMaster’s Ledgerlock at 3 5/8” be a better idea? I plan on alternating sides with a staggered pattern 16” on center, with Loctite PL Premium Max sandwiched in between the boards.
I've used plenty of both but I prefer the Headloks. How "proprietary" is a bit if it is commonly available? None of my Fastenmaster bits have stripped out on me, so I have plenty of new ones that came with the fasteners. One fastener I will never use again are the Mitek structural screws -- a pia going in and even worse if you have to take them out. They are expensive and both the screws and the bits will strip.
@@brikshoe6259 i wouldn't call it common, you can't buy it at the autostore or a supermarket. Whereas you can get torx almost anywhere. How "proprietary"? Well my car, equipment, and other tools doesn't use that bit. If i go fix, upgrade, modify or replace something where the previous person use headlock, i wouldn't be able to remove it with my common bits. So yeah, its very proprietary like Apple screws.
