That was quite informative I liked the new paint removal technic - it's better than caustic soda and paint striper simply because it's better for the environment. Paint striper and caustic soda end's up down the sink and the sea. I also like your method of the plate removal well done. The car turned out great thanks for the Vlog 👍
Looks superb. I love that you have simply brought the toy back to how it would have looked when it left the Binns Road factory, all that time ago. As you say, quite rightly, they look very good, but they aren't perfect. Of course not. They were made as TOYS, really great toys, to be played with. I had one of these, and it got played with a lot. Inside in the winter, and in the garden in the summer, with my lead farm animals and figures. Thanks for sharing! Nice one.
Many thanks for the comment. 'how it would have looked when it left the Binns Road factory' is exactly the look I am aiming for - I couldn't have put it better myself. I like to keep some of the 'play' or 'toy box' story too. Hence my 'under-restored' base-plates. So glad you 'get it'. Regards ... David
Hi Nicky. How very nice of you to comment. The company nurse at Meccano - I feel honoured. These were literally my favourite toys as a small boy. I am pleased that they have returned to my life and I am enjoying owning them all over again. Thanks again Nicky, stay safe ... David
Fine job, you are right about the debate on the amount of restoration, my own view is that just because the factory finish was poor does not mean we have to follow their example, any model deserves the best finish we can give it.
A really nice little model and result, I have restored maybe about 20 or so of these Dinkies a few years back, a couple of things I do, I make my own rivets and superglue them in, another is I don't use a primer as on some castings detail can be lost and if a little chip happens it's easier to touch up. But hey everybody has their own way of doing things and if you get a result its all that's needed.
Thanks for the info! Like the idea of making my own rivets (is a brief description possible -I would be interested). Take your point over the primer. I don think the originals were primed anyway. I will try this out as well. Appreciate the comment.
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David regarding the rivets I used either 4, 5, or 6mm alloy bar depending on the rivet head diameter. I got from eBay in 1M lengths. Fix preferably old or cheap drill m/c lightly horizontally in a vice, I used an old orange B&D if you remember them (they were junk) and run on the slow speed, effectively you are using it as a crude lathe. Cut in short enough pieces to fix I a chuck of a drill protruding the length you want the rivet, I do mine 6-7 mm. Using files round the tip of the bar the profile of the original rivet head with a fine file. Centre punch the centre of the bar and use a 5mm drill in another drill m/c, of course, to get the dimple in or around the centre, it doesn't have to be perfectly centre as the originals weren't always the centre. Use a 1/4 inch flat or square double-cut secondary or fine file. Put a washer (a mudguard washer is good for this) on the bar against the jaws of the chuck to protect the file (the jaws are hard) and use as a guide, the thickness of the file should fit between the washer and the edge of the profile you made at the end of the bar, file while the drill is running until a diameter of 3mm, cut off and dip in acid to tarnish and you have a rivet. I dipped mine in I think old battery acid I had to tarnish. It is a bit of a faff but I think worth it considering you only need about 2 or 3 per car, oh and superglue into the hole in the post. It took me longer to write this than it takes to make 2 rivets lol. I tried a few methods like 3mm pop rivets with the centre filled and painted silver, it was ok but I think making my own was best. I still have about 20 odd restorations to do. When??? I have a set of the racing cars in poor unrestored condition with a few tyres missing here and there bent wheel axles etc, mounted in a deep frame behind glass on a matt black background in staggard grid positions hanging on the wall and you look down on the top of them. I considered mounting them over a print out of this picture instead of the matt black. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8c/Fangio.png Many comment on how good they look. I also have a couple of spare AA and RAC outfits I will do the same with. I went on ebay and notice all the £2 and £3 restorations have pretty much dried up, I was buying mine 15 years ago at £5 max inc postage, I stopped going to the local toy fairs as a few traders who found out what I was doing with them and had an hour or so before the public were allowed in were buying them up, painting them, I will say crudely and selling them for £15 to £20 or so at the next fair. Sorry for the long comment if any part is not clear let me know but hope this helps.
David I should add the last few Dinky's I did I didn't take them apart, I have a small sandblaster that shoots aluminium oxide I use for carburettors as I restore motorcycles, I used this to strip the paint and base and it leaves a beautiful finish ready for paint in 5 mins and mask the base and rivets. I don't generally do cars with glass though have done a Spot-on BMW Isetta and Corgi Heinkel and a Ford Thames Camper. These, as you know, need to be taken apart. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blast-Cabinet-With-Aluminum-Oxide-Grit-And-Dust-Extraction-Sandblaster/193705785411?hash=item2d19c3b843:g:vgIAAOSwfN1fgzuy www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SANDBLASTER-GRIT-BLASTING-SAND-SANDBLASTING-CABINET-90L-LITRE/353142600232?hash=item5238f07228:g:HGwAAOSwtjdfEaXs
Beautiful car. I really like the color combination, it stands out well. This, to me, is great therapy and a wonderful way to relax. Hoping you enjoy doing this for many many many years ahead.
Hi David. Just caught your restoration of the Ford Zephyr. What an amazing job you have done. Well done David I look forward to more of these excellent restoration video's, I also love watching you 00-gauge layout video's. so regards for now. George.......
Hello David just wanted to say it's really cool to watch someone bring life back to a classic toy! 👍 I really enjoyed watching and I hope to watch more of your videos in the future. Thanks again and take care!
Very nice restoration David. We had MK1 Zephyr Zodiac in Bristol Fawn and Dorchester Grey I believe it was a 1955 model. The straight 6 cylinder engine had no problem taking us to Devon with our Sprite Musketeer Caravan with had very similar colours to the Zephyr, but the opposite way around. The motif on the bonnet was chrome. (We called it the Flying Bomb) Martin (Thailand)
Hi Martin, sounds wonderful. Great colour scheme must have looked amazing with the caravan. Thanks for sharing and thanks for your kind comments. Glad you liked the restoration ... David
As a kid in Rhodesia this was eagerly awaited, because it looked like real cars we saw on the road.it appeared in the Meccano Magazine about 3 months before it was on the shelves.
I enjoyed your restoration of 162 Zephyr. I have one too which until now hadn't considered restoring. Can you suggest where I might buy some new tyres and a new display box/ carton?
Sorry for the delay Tim - many thanks for your kind comment. ebay is the easiest for spares and boxes. The boxes I prefer are I prefer are by DRRB - here is a link : dinkyboxes.com/collections/dinky
What a tidy job David, Well Done. That masking tape was very effective, the join-line looks excellent - very accurate indeed. I'm looking forward to more of these in the future. All the Best from Plockton, Dougie.
Nice video David,. my friend had one of these cars a 1953 model Zephyr six i think the green colour was darker also the bonnet emblem was chromed as well...thanks for sharing.
Hi Bill, many thanks, they do bring back memories. I had a Mk.1 Consul (similar) with bench seats, column gears and plenty of chrome - great cars ... david
I know Dinky did not have the room on the base plate to fit the full name, but it is a Zephyr Zodiac. It was our favourite family car and it used to tow our caravan without any problems. YPD 981 was painted in Dorchester Grey and Bristol Fawn. The number plate was a stick on one on the front of the bonnet split into two halves. David, the Flying Bomb on the bonnet was Chrome Plated and I think the strip behind was also Chromed. They had a straight 6 2.5 litre engine. Martin. (Thailand)
I know there is not enough room on the base of this model, but it is a Zephyr Zodiac that would have had the straight-six 2500cc engine with a three-speed column change gearbox. They were all two-tone paint finished. There was the Zephyr 6, but that was in a single colour. My Dad's 1955 version was painted in Bristol Fuan and Dorchester Grey. YPD 981. The flying bomb on the bonnet is another give away to the real thing and the Over-riders were fitted as standard,, but an option on other models including the 4 cylinder Consul. a nice restoration and as it should have been done in its original colours. Unlike a certain Locomotive, I could mention. Martin. (Thailand)
Thanks Martin for the background information on the Zephyr Zodiac. I remember them too although I was only a child back then. Lovely styling though. I do remember the 3 speed column gear change - I did eventually own an old Consul in mid blue - bench seats and column gears - very American. Your Dad's two-tone sounds great. I think I can guess the loco you mean - thanks again ... David👍👍👍👍
Many thanks Jack, very kind of you to say. I was surprised too. I did say to subscribers who were not keen on my old stripper that I would try and find a more environmentally friendly product - this could be it (hopefully) ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Ya, I'll gladly switch from the chemically noxious gel stripper I've used for twenty five plus years! Nine times of ten a subscriber comes up with "solutions" which work poorly (very generous of me to understate) lol! I've just started to brows your channel and I see you're an incredibly talented artists as well! I love the birds!! I've been painting mostly landscapes, with a couple of exceptions where I painted an African scene with an elephant, and one had a birch canoe beside a river with a deer or three! I've been seriously considering replacing all my old oil paint with water soluble oils! I tried them many years ago when they first came on the market and I found them to be too thin which impeded my wet on wet method. There's been a LOAD of new painting related products becoming more and more easily acquired such as "Liquin" (yes, I most likely butchered that name! ;) There's all kinds of products for speeding up drying, or slowing dry time down depending on the subject matter and how to best attack various elements within the painting. So, take care David!! Jack - Canada
Very impressive restoration, David! Definitely one of the best I have ever seen. Always thumbs up for you! I strongly recommend you to wear gloves while doing some of the work, for example, getting rid of the paint. The paint remover was eco-friendly, but to a chemistry guy like me that is still quite harmful to the skin. Anyway it is always pleasant to watch your videos.
Somtimes you cant do f++k all right. Its not as though your stripping a london bus , any way it took three times longer in the tank. Good for you on the wheel stripping. F+++ing eco warriers
Welcome back David..I've been looking forward to seeing another of your Dinky restorations. Can't wait for the Lagonda! I've been using caustic soda for stripping paint because it is quick and very effective but I really like the idea of a greener method. Please let us know in your next video if it is reusable...it looks very good from what I've seen in this restoration. Love how this came out....up to your usual high standards. 👍
Hi Derrick - thanks for your comments. I will reuse the stripper for the Lagonda - this will be in the next Dinky video, I am hoping I can use it a few times, but we shall see ... David
I recommend you use caustic soda to remove the paint, because it's removed easier and faster. Use it with hot water, but remember to use it with rubber gloves in your hands as a precautionary measure.
I was sure this was going to be the next installment for watercolor. But no, it's a great old toy. There is a lot of Matchbox and Hot Wheels repairs going on these days. The Dinky toys and Auburn rubber vehicles were among the more prominent toys in my childhood. Nice variety of topics on your channel!
Thanks for that. Painting and model making has been my life's interest, I was hoping that a 'mix' would be appreciated. Really appreciate your comment ... David
Hi Mark - not had a lot of luck with my early drills the ones I use now are a 2.5mm drill for drilling out the 'rivet' and a 4.5mm drill for removing the head of the 'rivet' - hope this helps ... David
I have a question being an amateur. I noted you first used a 2mm bit to get the rivet started then you switched to a 4.5 mm drill to fully drill out the hole. May I presume the new rivets you used to replace the old ones also 4.5 mm?
Hi, thanks for your question, and apologies if I did not make it clear how to drill out the rivets. The fact is that they are NOT real rivets, they are posts moulded into the body casting. They pass through holes in the baseplate then the top of the post is hammered over in the factory to secure the baseplate - giving them the look of a real rivet. So to remove the baseplate you need to start with a small drill (say 2mm - the diameter of of the new 'rivet') and drill down into the post to the length of your new 'rivet'. Then use a large drill (4.5mm) just to drill off the head of the old post. The baseplate can then be removed. The 'rivet's sold for Dinky and Corgi Toys restorations are not real rivets - google them, or check them on e-bay - it will help make this clear. Hope this has helped👍👍
@@davidhyde4329 Thank you so very much, David! Your help clears this up and I am off to the hardware store as I've discovered my drill bits are a bit...........old. Again, this has helped "reassuringly" so! Dan
Dinky toy original paint is quite a strong paint. I tried acetone but that had no effect, so i tried a modellers solution of Detol which works a treat. As for a metal primer i use a colourless Tamyia metal primer which you can colour a small bit, so if you scratch the paint work the primer colour doesn't show through it matches top coat.
Hi David, Can you suggest where I might be able to obtain the ECO 100 paint stripper? I can't find it anywhere online. I have a very troublesome Victor estate that I cannot get the paint off. I've watched a few of your videos, you're doing great work, I think you've sold me on the idea of an ultrasonic cleaner.
Sorry Dave - I can't. Found this product on e-bay and bought a couple of bottles. When I came to re-order I could find no trace of the company or the product !! I have used up my supply so now I am going to use caustic soda. The US cleaner can be useful as it is a good way of cleaning up an old model for your collection if you are not going to restore it, or perhaps re-touch it. I don't use it for full restorations since a subscriber pointed out there is no need to clean if you are going to strip the paint.
@@davidhyde4329 Thanks David, I watched some more of your later restorations and saw that you can't get it any more, shame, it looked to work well. I got the outside of the Victor stripped, I laid it in a container of acetone which loosened the paint, it didn't shrivel up but it came off with a bit of scraping brushing and steel wooling. Here's the H&S bit: You definitely need some good ventilation for using that much acetone it's very volatile and could make you dizzy and nauseous, even leading to unconsciousness.
FYI: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Johnson-Pledge-Beautify-It-Surface-Polish-750ml-Formerly-known-as-Johnsons-KLEAR-/361619671188 I haven't tried it yet but it looks as though it's the new version of stuff you used to use.
Hi Eddie, never heard of the 'shoe-box' Ford so I have just Googled it. You are correct, it does look very, very similar. With Ford and Vauxhall being popular here in the 1950s (still are today) but in the 50s you could easily see the American influence in our car designs - I loved it !! Thanks for the comment ... David
@@davidhyde4329 The "shoe box" American Ford was one of the first envelope or "ponton" bodied cars produced in the US, and took it's styling cues from European cars, notably the pioneering 1947 Cisitalia 202. Other cars still had separate fenders (wings) and hoods (bonnets) that rose high above the fender line. The English and American Fords were true postwar designs.
Hello, I found your video very interesting, I am about to try and restore a Minor 1000 split screen corgi car, but I must advise you to ware thin rubber gloves when stripping and painting. Regards David.
Hi, just found Your channel, subscribed, I've only just started collecting, could You advise Me please?, the two tone MK1, did it come without windows when made?, and secondly, where do You get replacement tyres?, any help appreciated, take care, regards Stewart.
Hi Stewart - apologise for the lateness of my reply. Have not been able to make videos for many months, so I expect you have found your answers by now. The Mk.1 Zephyr certainly came without windows in it's early issues. As far as I know it was only available in a two-tone scheme. As for the tyres - many traders sell on ebay - I buy mine through ebay. Apologies again 👍👍👍
Hi, my apologies, my model room has been chaotic but now its cleared and I have built a larger workbench. Yes, I am pleased to say there is a new restoration on the way - The Lagonda open top tourer. Finished a new Railway video, so this will be next (before Christmas) ... David
Sorry Sarah. I have not been able to make videos for many months. However, I can't be of much help because I do not know much about jewellery cleaner. Not much help I know - I hope you have found the answer elsewhere 👍👍
Yes David, definitely - I have already used it twice (watch my next restoration video) I plan to use it again - to see how long it lasts - regards ... David
Great job only thing I would of done is drilled the posts out and tapped them and used a M2 screw to hold the base. That way in the future if for any reason it will be easier to pull apart
Hi Rick - apologies for very late reply. Yes I understand what you say. I prefer the 'rivets' as these early models never had screws. Personal thing I know - each to his own. 👍👍👍
Hi Paddy - I think I bought mine off ebay for about £18 (including shipping). Here is a link to a selection on Amazon :- www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=ultrasonic+cleaner&crid=13YPPSILIQO8H&sprefix=ultrasonic%2Caps%2C158&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10 and here is another Amazon link to the item I use in the video :- www.amazon.co.uk/FLOUREON-Ultrasonic-Stainless-Professional-Eyeglasses/dp/B0744GDJ3C/ref=sr_1_52?crid=13YPPSILIQO8H&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1559361150&s=gateway&sprefix=ultrasonic%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-52 Hope this helps. Check out 'Ulrasonic cleaners' on ebay for, perhaps, a better deal. Hope this helps ... David
